Dropped my car off at ASP last night, finally going BT

[Russell2686]

Well i took the 2.5 hour trip down the turnpike last night to drop my car off at Autospeed Performance. Ill be going with their gt28rs kit and their tuning. I wasn't able to meet them but ive talked to Mark several times on the phone and he seems like a cool guy. Hopefully i'll have it back within 2-3 weeks. I drove the car down stock and when i pick it up im sure the drive home will be much more fun with close to 300whp

Some of the stuff included will be

-ASP Investment Cast Manifold (Designed for Maximum Flow)
-GT28RS Turbo
-ASP Oil/Water/Boost Lines (Not separate fittings and push ons like others) but rather pre-made teflon-stainless braided AN crimped fittings for a guaranteed leak proof connection
-ASP Silicon Inlet Hose
-ITG Intake Filter
-ASP CNC MAF Housing
-Fuel Injectors
-ASP Downpipe with 200cpi Metallic Substrate
-ASP FMIC with Powder Coated Aluminum Tubing, TBolt Clamps
-Power Steering Cooler


Preliminary Testing has shown power output to be approx 300whp on 93 Octane, mid 300's on Race Fuel. Thats approx 384chp on 93 Octane!

Some teasers of their stuff taken from dougyfresh's thread in the b6 forums:

[Seerlah]

If you don't mind me asking, can I ask how much all of this cost? PM me if you don't feel like posting it. You going to upgrade your clutch? And what exhaust set up you running? Thanks!

[ILoveT]

Are you doing rods?

[slopoke]

wow very nice also interested in the last 2 questions, keep us posted!

[GraveL]

I dont see any turbo options at the ASP site for the b5 a4, do you have to call for info or what?... Im interested in pricing some stuff out.

[Russell2686]

yes best bet is to call. Their website is very weak right now

www.autospeed.us

I have a stage 2 clutch right now so im going to baby that thing untill i want to dish out another grand for a clutch.

As far as exhaust I have a 2.5" APR with QTP electronic cut out

No rods for me yet.

[ILoveT]

No rods for me yet.

Are you FRIGHTENED?

[Russell2686]

Are you FRIGHTENED?

not to much, we will see though

[tdn]

I'm definitely considering going with this kit.

I'm sure it's around $4-5k just for the kit.

Russell, can you confirm the price of the kit and price of install assuming you aren't getting a special deal?

[maxspeed]

Are you FRIGHTENED?

no need for teh fear with only 300whp

[akaEsCo01]

Where in Jersey are you driving from that it took you 2.5 hours???

[AudiRacerS4]

Are you FRIGHTENED?

you dont need rods with a GT28rs

[creechsa4]

hope everything goes sick on your bt build. those pics of the b6 are incredible, crazy intake setup, super clean.

[Russell2686]

Where in Jersey are you driving from that it took you 2.5 hours???

vernon, we had to drop my other friends car off in mammoth county on the way so it actually took a little longer then 2.5 hrs plus our friend followed us in a ford escort that can only do 60 mph

[Russell2686]

I'm definitely considering going with this kit.

I'm sure it's around $4-5k just for the kit.

Russell, can you confirm the price of the kit and price of install assuming you aren't getting a special deal?

yes it was a special deal but retail on the hardware kit is 6k plus tuning and installation.

[bassed]

no need for teh fear with only 300whp

Not true at all. It's not just WHP/TQ dependent, but wear and miles related also from what I've seen. The wristpins only can take so much with high mileage.

[creechsa4]

Not true at all. It's not just WHP/TQ dependent, but wear and miles related also from what I've seen. The wristpins only can take so much with high mileage.

true dat, normally aspirated and g60 vdubs are throwing on forged rod/piston setups with much much less than 300 hp. vw/audi motors are torquey 4 bangers that throw stock rod/piston setups commonly.

[tdn]

true dat, normally aspirated and g60 vdubs are throwing on forged rod/piston setups with much much less than 300 hp. vw/audi motors are torquey 4 bangers that throw stock rod/piston setups commonly.

i never knew that. so mileage plays a big role, i can figure that much but how many miles are we talking about?

i'm getting this same turbo, gt28rs, was hoping to make around 300awhp and not worry about internals. i've got 65k miles now..

[bassed]

i never knew that. so mileage plays a big role, i can figure that much but how many miles are we talking about?

i'm getting this same turbo, gt28rs, was hoping to make around 300awhp and not worry about internals. i've got 65k miles now..

It depends on the year, but from what I see you're a AWM. The AWM has 19mm wrist pins, which are very weak when compared to the AEB or ATW's 20mm. Your millage is well below what I personally would consider the worry point, but it's not guaranteed. Check your compression, make sure all maintenance is 100% up to snuff and complete before doing the BT. Keep the boost below 21psi and you should be ok, but as I mentioned the AWM has the weak wrist pin factor. Problem with throwing rods is that you tend to kill the block, so it's a crap shoot sometimes.

Did you see my old setup for sale in the classifieds? It's a 2860rs, tunning, injectors, maf housing, all supply and return lines and luck you it's for a 2001!

[.Mad Hatter.]

you dont need rods with a GT28rs

lol, agreed.

[Seerlah]

I know many are not rich on this site, as I am one of them . But from what I learn from the posts of knowledgable users on this forum is if you plan on going anything bigger than a GT28r, it is prudent to at least change the rods. Sure, that extra $1250-$2500 sounds like a heart breaker. But is nothing in comparison when you get your new turbo thinking you can beat the streets like it is a new car with a new engine. Rods is one of the better investments on your vehicle if you plan on going GT28rs+. Pistons and rods is the route I myself plan on taking. Better to do it right the first time around than regret later.

Yes, rods are not needed for the GT28rs, but is highly recommended.

[.Mad Hatter.]

i dont think its recommended at all...2871 sure, but not GTRS.

[Seerlah]

I know for the 2871r you have to swap rods when going with the .63 A/R and recommended when you go with the .82 A/R. I would just say better safe than sorry. But yeah, with the GT28rs rods are not needed at all, but are good for safety measure.

[JumboBlack1.8]

I'm going with a full GT2871r w/o rods......but I won't be pushing the turbo too hard, since I don't plan on boosting more than 18psi.....shooting for around 280whp

I feel like this whole debate really depends on a lot of factors (maintenance, boost levels, driving style, etc.).....many people have gotten by running 300+whp on stock internals and been fine.....I'm hoping that I'll be one of those people when i FINALLY finish my own build

[Russell2686]

I'll wait and see from first hand experience.
There are a lot of opinions on this.

[SurferForever]

I would at least suggest using a colder plug. hope you dont plan on staying with stock...


and if you do decide to do rods, might as well throw the money in for pistons on top of that too. yeah its more money, but well worth it ion the long run if your taking it all apart anyway

[Russell2686]

I would at least suggest using a colder plug. hope you dont plan on staying with stock...


and if you do decide to do rods, might as well throw the money in for pistons on top of that too. yeah its more money, but well worth it ion the long run if your taking it all apart anyway

yeah im hoping they will take care of the plugs also when they do the tuning.

[onemoremile]

I know many are not rich on this site, as I am one of them . But from what I learn from the posts of knowledgable users on this forum is if you plan on going anything bigger than a GT28r, it is prudent to at least change the rods. Sure, that extra $1250-$2500 sounds like a heart breaker.

500-700 if you can read and hold a wrench.

[Nebone]

I seen that setup on a car at Waterfest 13. It looks very clean and simple. Driving with a granade in a car kinda of sucks tho.

[Seerlah]

500-700 if you can read and hold a wrench.

I was actually contemplating on that. Bought a Bentley manual in attempts to learn mechanics. But kind of weary od messing up my vehicle. Plus I am below a novice or amatuer, I have no mechanical skills. But you never know, just might attempt it. It would save me some money, but now I want to do rods and pistons. I def can not do that as machine work will be involved. Sometimes, the extra dough is worth the headache. Sometimes, it isn't.

[bassed]

I would at least suggest using a colder plug. hope you dont plan on staying with stock...


and if you do decide to do rods, might as well throw the money in for pistons on top of that too. yeah its more money, but well worth it ion the long run if your taking it all apart anyway

TJ: just noticed in your sig that you indicate you have a 2.0L AWM? Since when? If its not running its not supposed to go in the sig:)

[Nebone]

I was actually contemplating on that. Bought a Bentley manual in attempts to learn mechanics. But kind of weary od messing up my vehicle. Plus I am below a novice or amatuer, I have no mechanical skills. But you never know, just might attempt it. It would save me some money, but now I want to do rods and pistons. I def can not do that as machine work will be involved. Sometimes, the extra dough is worth the headache. Sometimes, it isn't.

You need money to do this, period. Jumping from no skill to strenghtening a motor by learning "mechanics" from a service manual is a start for breaking stuff and having to catch rides as your daily driver will be down.

Most people here either had their motors built and tunes done by professionals or have done this before on some level. I know mechanics (Mechanical Engineer) but beuilding an engine is more experience than know-how in my book.

[onemoremile]

I was actually contemplating on that. Bought a Bentley manual in attempts to learn mechanics. But kind of weary od messing up my vehicle. Plus I am below a novice or amatuer, I have no mechanical skills. But you never know, just might attempt it. It would save me some money, but now I want to do rods and pistons. I def can not do that as machine work will be involved. Sometimes, the extra dough is worth the headache. Sometimes, it isn't.

No machine work involved to do just rods. You can use a power drill to hone and deglaze the cylinder walls. Pick up a set of used AEB pistons (forged Mahles) and a set of Scat rods. The only questionable part is the IM shaft that drives the oil pump since it wobbles a bit. That is only an issue of RPM though, not power. If you do a home build the engine shouldn't be revved out to 8500 anyway since it won't be machine balanced. Still, 7000 or 7500 should be no problem.

[Russell2686]

TJ: just noticed in your sig that you indicate you have a 2.0L AWM? Since when? If its not running its not supposed to go in the sig:)

heres the thread
http://audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192431

[SurferForever]

TJ: just noticed in your sig that you indicate you have a 2.0L AWM? Since when? If its not running its not supposed to go in the sig:)

IF you are refering to tj as my name, its actaully spencer, not tj. Second of all it is running. I actually just drove the car from jersey down to myrtle beach and back.

Totally forgot about that other thread from when i was first installing it and never updated it. Actually just dropped it back off so they could finnish the tune now that i have 2000 miles on the engine.

[bassed]

IF you are refering to tj as my name, its actaully spencer, not tj. Second of all it is running. I actually just drove the car from jersey down to myrtle beach and back.

Totally forgot about that other thread from when i was first installing it and never updated it. Actually just dropped it back off so they could finnish the tune now that i have 2000 miles on the engine.

TJ=thread jack, don't get so pissy I asked because I knew nothing of it or forgot and I'm glad to see there is another AWM 2.0L on here now, which makes 2 of us. After looking at that thread linked to above I now remember about it a bit, but KMD? I hope they are not the ones tuning the car as well, after what happened to you before. I've warned people about them and their tuning capabilities.

[dougyfresh]

Awesome! Glad to hear you have chosen this route. Nice/busy shop, huh? They (ASP) are super nice people and know what they are doing. If you have any questions or such don't hesitate to contact me.

Spark plugs are included in the kit (Bosch F5DPOR).

As far as pricing and why it is not listed on their website..... ASP is still finishing software development on their B5 and B6 GT28RS kits. As a result, to the individuals interested in helping, they are providing this kit at a reduced price. In the end, I believe full retail will run around $5.9k and that includes all the hardware, software and FMIC with new power steering cooler. Installation will be extra.

My car was helping develop the B6 software until I decided to go further. Now I'm building a 2.0L stroker with a 2871R and the ASP 28RS hardware kit. Mark@ASP will be doing a custom tune for me.

[onemoremile]

You need money to do this, period. Jumping from no skill to strenghtening a motor by learning "mechanics" from a service manual is a start for breaking stuff and having to catch rides as your daily driver will be down.

Most people here either had their motors built and tunes done by professionals or have done this before on some level. I know mechanics (Mechanical Engineer) but beuilding an engine is more experience than know-how in my book.

Mine was the first engine I ever built. All of my info was from the Haynes manual and online sources like Hot Rod magazines tutorials. Did it more than 30k miles ago and all is well. Mike (TQMB5) has the same story. His engine also runs well.

If we never tried new things we'd all be ignorant and completely inexperienced in all aspects of life. In other words, we'd all be virgins.

Would the next engine I built at home be better? No. It wouldn't take as long but the quality of work would be the same. Would an engine built by an engine builder in a shop be better? Potentially. Only if they did all the little things and gave it a full balance with the clutch and crank pulley mounted. Things like gapping the rings, deglazing the cylinder walls, and checking bearing shell clearances are the same.

[Seerlah]

I think the only way I would do it if I were assistaed by someone. Otherwise I fear I would get very agitated at my inexperience, yet should be expected. Besides, the breaking sh*t factor is always up for play.

Either ways, I have a long ways to go before the BAT.

*sorry for the thread jacking

[Dietbudda]

I just built my block (First piston motor i've done) without looking at ANY manuals aside from getting torque specs. a basic rebuild isn't complicated...

We'll find out tonight if i did a decent job rebuilding it.