APR Snub

[CapstoneJHS]

Installed mine tonight...completely worth it. The actual snub installation took about 15 mins total. Reinstalling the underbody trays for the first time...that's a different story.

Absolutely no "extra vibration" at idle, or even when I rev it. The shift from 1st to 2nd is very crisp and "connected". Just feels a lot better overall. The hardest part about the actual snub install was sliding the APR snub on the bracket. Nothing a vise can't handle though.

I recommend it to anyone considering it.

[Zebman]

FFS! I don't need any motivation to spend any more money! Gah, you guys are making sure I go through college broke.

Good to hear it's easy though. It's cheap, so i'm going to take the plunge after I get tint and an exhaust.

[cstarky15]

I too am going to be buying this real soon

[Zebman]

Lmao, I just did. Impulse buying FTMFW!

[CapstoneJHS]

Lmao, I just did. Impulse buying FTMFW!

haha, glad I could help! You'll thank me later!

[B7!]

i just bought one myself. can you tell me how you installed it?

thanks

[supamannn99]

damn. tip tranny FTMFL

[CapstoneJHS]

i just bought one myself. can you tell me how you installed it?

thanks

Just follow APR's installation instructions from their website. Here's the link:

http://goapr.com/Audi/support/b6_snub_mount.pdf

It says "B6 Snub Mount", but the installation is exactly the same for B7's.

Step 6 says to "Loosen the FOUR 13mm nuts holding the snub basket to the front clip"....B7's only have THREE 13mm nuts on there. To make it easier to reinstall the snub bracket, I removed the snub basket from the front clip and reinstalled them both together. There's no muscle or fighting involved to get it to fit. It should just fit, if you're fighting...you're doing it wrong. Tighten the snub bracket, but don't tighten the nuts down on the basket, just finger tight. The basket should still be able to slide up and down. Crank the car and let it idle, then tighten down the 3 nuts on the basket. That lets the basket get centered up around the APR snub.

Something I noticed in another AZer's snub installation post is that he installed it backwards. The lip on the inside of the mount that slides onto the shaft of the lower engine bracket is not equally spaced. The "deeper" side of the snub should face towards the engine. The very tip of the lower engine bracket should stick out (just a little) past the end of the snub itself.

Here's a picture from the other post....this is wrong. It should be the opposite.



I should've taken pictures and done a write-up for you guys, but I didn't think about it. It's really not a hard installation at all. The underbody trays are the hardest part.

I have zero "extra vibration" at any RPM, so I'm not sure what that's all about with the other guys that have installed the snub mount (for any brand...not just APR).

[rings65]

Just did mine today and can tell a difference. Shifting feels much cleaner and more crisp, and if there is any extra vibration I don't notice it. I followed the APR instructions which worked great - put the bracket in a vise, dipped the mount in a cup of soapy water, then several whacks with a rubber mallet and it was on.

Overall, a great mod to do.

[supamannn99]

doesn't make much of a difference for the tip tranny right?

[CapstoneJHS]

Just did mine today and can tell a difference. Shifting feels much cleaner and more crisp, and if there is any extra vibration I don't notice it. I followed the APR instructions which worked great - put the bracket in a vise, dipped the mount in a cup of soapy water, then several whacks with a rubber mallet and it was on.

Overall, a great mod to do.

Good to hear!

I didn't even have to use a mallet. There's a little lip on the snub bracket. I just put a cloth over one half of my vise, and used that lip to press the snub onto the bracket. I put a little soapy water on there for lube, but it slid right on.

[CapstoneJHS]

doesn't make much of a difference for the tip tranny right?

Honestly couldn't tell you.

[Firefighter637]

After reading this write up makes me want to do it too. I have the snub sitting in my glove box. I just need the time and car ramps to do it. geez....sooner or later it will get done. Thanks for the info.

[viperdsa]

I'm going to have to work my ass off so I don't go to college broke. You guys are a bad influence.
The only thing that is keeping me away from this is the stories of them cracking and what not.

[CapstoneJHS]

I'm going to have to work my ass off so I don't go to college broke. You guys are a bad influence.
The only thing that is keeping me away from this is the stories of them cracking and what not.

I'd be willing to bet that 99% of the ones that crack were installed incorrectly.

[Louis J.]

How's the 2nd to 3rd shift? That can be a sloppy shift at WOT sometimes.

[rings65]

2nd & 3rd feel much more connected as well. I also notice that when leaving from a stop I don't get the low-end rpm vibration that I used to get when I start out slowly.

[hoking]

How's the 2nd to 3rd shift? That can be a sloppy shift at WOT sometimes.

Hahah I agree,.. had a few mis-shifts myself... damnit!

[Zebman]

Here's a picture from the other post....this is wrong. It should be the opposite.

Out of honest curiosity, how do you know this is wrong? Me and my friend were in this dilemma when we were in the middle of putting it on, and decided that since the original mount had a lip around the end of the mount, the APR one went on the way the picture shows. We determined that this probably prevented metal-to-metal contact of the stub shaft and subframe, and allowed for more rigidity. However, I didn't notice any improvement after the install, so i'd be glad to be proved wrong in hopes of reversing it and actually feeling a difference.

[CapstoneJHS]

Out of honest curiosity, how do you know this is wrong? Me and my friend were in this dilemma when we were in the middle of putting it on, and decided that since the original mount had a lip around the end of the mount, the APR one went on the way the picture shows. We determined that this probably prevented metal-to-metal contact of the stub shaft and subframe, and allowed for more rigidity. However, I didn't notice any improvement after the install, so i'd be glad to be proved wrong in hopes of reversing it and actually feeling a difference.

First of all, the end of the snub shaft cannot touch the subframe...it's not long enough. Unless your engine slides foward a good bit (you'd have MUCH bigger problems), it's not going to touch.

I don't have any solid proof (other than if I called APR myself) other than all the posts I've seen where guys have a hard time getting the snub bracket to fit after the snub was installed. I did, however, measure how far inboard the "bump" on the inside of the stock foam ball and compared it to the distance on each side of the APR snub...and the "longer" side matched up. Just using my mechanical know-how the best I know...and the install went flawlessly. I can only assume that others were installed incorrectly due to the difficulty presented in the other threads on AZ regarding installing any snug.