3lg Detailed 01 Camaro

[Grouse]

Well I will start this last weeks work off with the car that finished the week out. A 01 camaro SS. I was contacted in April by a soldier in Iraq. God knows what time it was for him to call me at 2pm in Seattle. After a long conversation he booked his car.

The car has had some extensive body work done. Along with a horrible detail. Since then it had basically been in one type of storage or another for 3 years. Right now it puts 425 at the rear wheels, with a 250 shot of NOS on top of that. (if your ears can stand it.)

The before shots.

[Grouse]

More before shots. The damage done to this poor car is amazing.

[Grouse]

Here we start to see the car during a decontamination wash, and claying. I had talked to Mike at 1z a while back about a particular problem i had had with a brand new g37. This car was exhibiting similar characteristics. So, after cleaning the wheels and wheel wells with Custom wheel Cleaner. I proceeded to blow, flush rinse out all 3 years of bonded contaminants that could be removed.

After the rinsing, I sprayed the car down with 1z plastic. I did not have W99 to try, so I used plastic. The problem i had had with the new g37 i mentioned above was a certain type of contamination that needs a high alkaline to remove it. This is why i went with plastic. In the past I have tried using P21s TAW for this purpose but it simply does not have the alkalinity needed.

With 1z plastic. (given a choice i would have used w-99)



Dwell time for the plastic was about 10 min. At that point I started my normal wash procedures with the foam canon and 1z glanz wash. (a little adams thrown in)
Upper windows and roof were washed first.


Hood and rear deck lid along with rear bumper next.


Here are the first shots of the car after claying and taping. The true extent of the previous detailers work can be seen. Along with some bad body work.

[Grouse]

continued


Mike at Einzett had forwarded me a sample of a update to their HGP (high gloss polish) This sample had been reworked to work with wool, and foam at high speeds as compared to HGP's original 1000rpm limit. I started with the new HGP on the hood and was immediately surprised. It was 70-75+ with the humidity making sip completely worthless. I simply could not get sip to work. HGP on the other had worked extremely well on warm paint, (black at that) and finished down as good or slightly better than sip. Wiping it off in the warm weather with the high humidity was very easy.
My plan of attack was HGP via ccs purple foamed wool at 1200-1500 (depending on the area) I ended up polishing the majority of the panels twice with the purple wool/hgp combo. I think i would have been able to achieve the correction in one pass had i been inside my garage. I also could have stepped up to my schlegel #1 pad if i wanted. My concerns there was the previous detailers crappy work. How much was left. With that in mind I stuck with the purple/hgp x2 combo. The following two shots are after HGPx2


Why did I not go to Intensive paste from 1z? Well I had tried it on the hood, and was not happy with what it removed. That could be because of the temp/humidty combo. With the pressure i was putting and the speed Hochglanz seemed to cut more cleanly and finish down better. The only way i can describe it is to post the email forwarded to me from the chemist.

hochglanz new has got different abrasiva, in pasta intensiv we have a bigger corn size but the corns are not so hard. During polishing the corn size changes from big to smal. Hochglanz has got smal and hard corns and so it is possible to grind the surface without scratches. The abrasiva is abel to´remove scratches. The new hochglanz will not replace pasta intensiv. When you use Hochglanz with lampsskin it is possible to become a higher temperature on the surface and so the abrassiva works faster and stronger, it depends on rotation speed and the pressure you give tothe maschine. In fact the polish is tricky to handel. And it is difficult to explain how to use it. Our custumers use it in different ways. To polish the hole car without hologramms. And to remove sratches wit lamsskin with higher speed and more pressure. It is impossible to give standard advices. It depends on the paint. New paint softer pad lower speed, old paint harder pad more speed. It can be used for nano paint / ceramic paint.

The produkt is silikonfree it works with small hard corns and removes "dead paint" and polish to high gloss. It can be used in wide range the efect depends on the used pads (lambsskin), speed and pressure.

Ithink you have to try it for your own, to get a feeling how to use it.

We sell this produkt only to professionals, you have to kow that wrong using (to fast, to much pressure, extremly high temperature...) may be gives bad results...



Best regardes



Matthias



einszett Autopflegesysteme
Werner Sauer GmbH & Co
i.V. Matthias Gregorzewski

To give you an idea of what One pass was doing i have this photo. Unpolished area on the left polished on the right of my reflection.

un polished on the left of the deck lid line, polished on the right.

[Grouse]

Continued, Full sun had started to hit the car. Out came the canopy. At this point I had been around the car twice with HochGlanz. I was impressed. Dusting was at a minimum even under the baking sun. The issue now was finishing it down. At first i tried 106ff, but with the heat and humidity it was just like taking 1 step forward and 3 back. I opted to go to 3m ultrafina on a white ccs pad. 1000-1500-900 polishing combo. While that dealt with 95% off the micro marring, I moved forward with 1z metalic on the flex with white ccs pad. speed 6, worked it in quite a bit. (when i say I, i really mean Mike Swale. At this point he had tired of working on the 993 C4S in my garage).


Ack missed a picture, this is where Hochglanz left the panels after 2 passes on the purple pad.



Okay back to after 3m ultrafina, 1z metalic,1z glanz via pc red pad.

[Grouse]

Continued, more after shots.




Take special note of the body work to the left of the light.

[Grouse]

Continued.

[Grouse]

full shots.









Here is what the owner had to say about it.

Aaron I just want to let you know how amazing of a job I think you did with the car. I thought the paint was hopeless and now it looks as nice as when I bought it in 02. Oh and the discount tire smashed my front ground effect trying to pull it on to a lift yesterday. HAHA life is full of surprises for sure. Now I have to go back Monday to listen to them try to say they aren't liable blah blah blah. Thanks again for everything.
Andrew

I have another project this week where I plan to give Hochglanz a thorough trial by fire.

[NVR STSFD]

That looks awesome! Where did you learn how to do such great work? I really want to try and do this to my own vehicles, obviously not up to your quality, but I have to start somewhere. Do you have any suggestions? Again, great work!

[Grouse]

Yes,
First read my posts on how to wash a car. Start with the basics of being able to take care of the car once it is detailed.
http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/sho...eferrerid=6745
Phil has assembled a wash kit for my customers. you can find it here.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=293
I believe he will honor the az promo code.

After a few good washes look forward to other products and machine work.
Skip the PC and buy a flex 3401. Phil does not have it in stock right now. Put your name on the list.

Buy 8 pads
3 green
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=172
3 white
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=170
2 black
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=169

Start with 1z's consumer line of polishes,and sealants.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=203

You will need about a dozen towels for wipe down
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=146

Quality 3m tape
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=335

Clay bar
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=278

ONR as clay lube mixed 6:1
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=232

black wow for plastic trim.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=233

VRT for rubber trim.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...PROD&ProdID=77

Under carriage spray for wheel wells and engine bay.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...PROD&ProdID=70

[Grouse]

Yes,
First read my posts on how to wash a car. Start with the basics of being able to take care of the car once it is detailed.
http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/sho...eferrerid=6745
Phil has assembled a wash kit for my customers. you can find it here.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=293
I believe he will honor the az promo code.

After a few good washes look forward to other products and machine work.
Skip the PC and buy a flex 3401. Phil does not have it in stock right now. Put your name on the list.

Buy 8 pads
3 green
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=172
3 white
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=170
2 black
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=169

Start with 1z's consumer line of polishes,and sealants.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=203

You will need about a dozen towels for wipe down
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=146

Quality 3m tape
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=335

Clay bar
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=278

ONR as clay lube mixed 6:1
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=232

black wow for plastic trim.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=233

VRT for rubber trim.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...PROD&ProdID=77

Under carriage spray for wheel wells and engine bay.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...PROD&ProdID=70

[tamadrumr88]

this picture looks like those dokumon figures

[VJ's A6]

Grouse -- amazing job-- I see NY plates on the car.. Were you in NY or the car was at Seattle.

One more question-- Why do like flex 3401 better than PC 7424?? I am thinking about getting a PC 7424.. I never did machine work before so I am a beginner..

[Grouse]

The problem with a PC are numerous.

One of the first is that it does NOT have the capabilities to reliably break down sip or 106 in all areas before it starts to dry the product out. Tight corners, curves, and edges all suffer from this problem. The PC simply does not have the rotation to tumble the polish. This is required for the polish to break down. The pc will just oscillate the polish thus leaving portions that are either unbroken down or sharp on one side.

Another maddening reason is the fatigue generated by the PC, two step correction on a moderately marred car is a 10-14 hour polishing process. That clacking, vibrating, and noise will drive any one insane after 2-3 cars. There is also the effect it has on nerves, elbow's and shoulders. Constant vibration like the pc can make your arms numb for hours.

Lack of power. Simply put, you apply more than a smidgen of pressure and the PC bogs down. It becomes much less effective the more pressure you apply. It can be some what maddening on a very hard clear. You need the pressure for the "cut and polish" yet the pc can not handle it.

No trigger variable speed. Most rotary's and even the flex have a trigger variable speed. You set the max and then vary your trigger pull to spread the polish out, then lock the trigger to actually work the polish.

finally the biggest problem is there is no real benefit you can take with you after learning the PC to another platform. IE flex or rotary. How you polish with the PC is not how you polish with the flex or the rotary.

The flex is an interesting hybrid between a rotary and a orbit machine.

It has the necessary rotation for tumbling the polish. Due to how the flex 3401 is designed it can provide you with both rotation and orbit. At speed 6 it has 9600 orbits (basically the equivalent of an air drive orbiter) and 480 RPM. This gives the flex enough movement to rotate and tumble the polish at a low rpm. While giving you the brute force or 10k orbit power. This will help turn that 10-14 hour 2 step polish via PC into a 5-7 hour job.

It is a smoother machine with a different vibration and noise. The flex's system is a gear driven counter weight. With the proper type of care it will be far smoother, quieter and there for much less mental and physical stress.

Basically at speed 6 It also has much more torque than most rotary's, allowing you to work an area with more pressure before it begins to bog down. Not that you will always need more pressure with it's hybrid type of movement. That extra power, and torque are what really make using a flex a joy compared to a PC orbit.

It will show a rotary user all of their bad habits. Due to the nature of how the flex moves it is beneficial that you have good rotary habits. The flex will walk on panels with poor habits, Most noticeable when people tend to edge their rotary's. By learning to keep the flex flat, they will transfer that knowledge to a rotary when they move up.

The flex will finish down tough details better than a PC. The flex has the tumble necessary to finish down paints that may have a trace of holograming in the tight corners, or bends fender flare. Where as the PC simply can not effectively remove those areas because of it's lack of rotation and lack of power.

my 2 cents in a world of twenty dollar bills.

[VJ's A6]

Grouse -- thanks for very detailed info.. I guess if you are a beginner you could do damage the paint easily with flex.. PC is more forgivable I guess due to the lack of power. I am using Adam's polishes not Menzerna. I am little scared to use Flex because I could mess up the paint..
BTW- Are you in NY or Seattle??

[Kruat]

damn man, looks great...how much do you charge...lol My S need some love...

[Grouse]

Grouse -- thanks for very detailed info.. I guess if you are a beginner you could do damage the paint easily with flex.. PC is more forgivable I guess due to the lack of power. I am using Adam's polishes not Menzerna. I am little scared to use Flex because I could mess up the paint..
BTW- Are you in NY or Seattle??

it will be very hard to damage the paint with a flex.

[Mike @ einszett]

Awesome work!

For those wanting to know, the new High Gloss Polish is slowly replacing the old formula. The new formula is entirely different. It is formulated to treat the new ceramic / scratch resistant clear paints. But the results on regular clear paints of all types have been excellent.

[lookaught]

So what is a good temp/humidity range to use SIP and 106? Its supposed to be maddeningly hot here this weekend (90+) and with the possibility of rain its gonna be humid as well. This is not good for the Menzerna products? I would really, really like to get my car done asap and I just got those but have not used them yet.

Also, whats your opinion of the Cyclo compared to these other machines? Im not going to use a rotary, too risky for someone like me with limited detailing skills, I'll leave that to a pro. I just want to be able to maintain the paint and correct it some, not correct it to perfection from a state of disaster. I ask b/c I have access to a cyclo... though I do tend to splatter product with it b/c its so damn random.

Nice job on the car! Black looks so great immediately post-detail.