Subs, amps, wiring, housing... sound experts, please help!

[muffinman]

I'm looking to upgrade my sub stage to go with my NON-Bose RNS-e headunit and stock speakers. I want a clean bass sound, nothing that kicks like crazy but sends out a clean, strong, thump...

I'll probably be purchasing one quality 10" sub to do the job (Kicker? JL?), but have no idea what to do after that (a total noob when it comes to audio)...

What exactly do I need to keep my RNS-e headunit, stock speakers with a new 10" 600w ~ 900w subwoofer? What amp will work best in this situation? I don't want to be setting off car alarms... just want some nice, thumping, clean bass

From what little I know so far, it seems like I'll need to buy a sub, a housing unit for the sub, and an amp. Can I just use the wiring that currently on the car (any disadvantages to doing this)?

For the type of sub I'm seeking, any brand recommendations / brands to avoid?


Thanks

[nvr_follow_a4]

I had the setup your looking for in my B5 A4 and it sounded nice and clean. I would recommend the Alpine Type-R series of subs in a sealed enclosure. They're not terribly expensive and they require minimal volume enclosures. In order to add an aftermarket amp you'll need to get a low-level line out converter and tap into the existing speaker wires. I used the Scosche converter http://www.scosche.com/products/sfID.../productID/999
This will allow you to connect the RCA cables from the converter to the amp. As far as an amp goes I'd go with a Class-D mono type (ex. MTX Thunder 600XD or Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-1), since you're just running one sub. You'll have to also run a power cable from the battery to the amp. This wasn't too difficult, I ran mine through the ECU box a went through the firewall there. I'd suggest running at least 6-gauge wire. I tapped into my speaker wires in the trunk area where the Bose amp was mounted, but since you don't have Bose you could probably tap into the rear deck speaker wires if you wanted to mount the amp in the rear. I hope this helps.....good luck with the setup!

[Josh_877]

x2 on a type-R. i have a 12" daul 4 ohm bridged to 2 ohms running at 800wrms with an Alpine mrp-m850. total system with install prolly cost me like 400 bucks. it may be a little more than you need though. this 12" hits real hard, i was very surprised.

[4RingRook]

Get a good 10, like JL Audio 10W3v3 and put at least 300 watts to it on a single channel amp. It'll be just the thump you're lookin for.

As for wiring into the stock head unit, I have no idea.

[QuadRings]

I have a 10" Alpine Type R, and unless you're doing sound competitions or just like being obnoxiously loud, there's no reason for more than one, haha. It'll handle 500 watts RMS. I haven't put it into the Audi yet, still debating if I want to, but I had it in my Prelude before it got totalled, and it hit damn hard. Had it hooked up to a HiFonics Titan series amp.

[davis449]

I did a JL 12" just to make sure it penetrated the through the trunk. I've had it for almost three years now in 2 different cars and have been happy with it. I only push about 250 watts through it and it does fine.

[Brent27]

I having my 12 inch alpine type r installed this weekend, my buddy is doing it since he works for the local install shop.My amp is a alpine 757.


I had the symphony 6cd changer head unit and Im keeping that in place he said he is going to tap into the factory sub in the trunk and then just run the power from the battery he is using 8 guage wires.... I have another type r sub if your interested to save you some cost, and its barely used.

Brands to use
JL audio,Kicker,Alpine,Orion,audiobahn

those are all pretty good quality products and just one 12 or 10 is all you need

Bad brands
sony xplodes, best buy brands such insignia, most paper cone subs....what you pay is what you get when it comes to subs.

[muffinman]

Thanks for the info and PM's

Any thoughts on the brands Image Dynamics or Boston Bass?

Or Alpine's new 10" Type E and Type S subs?

[viziers]

I have a 10" Digital Design sub being pushed by a Sundown Audio 1000d sub is rated at 1500w in a 2.0ci ported box and the lows are awesome. Its a spectacular(sp?) sub!!!!



vizi

[b6onboost]

you'll need the following: sub, amp, box, amp wiring kit, hi/lo rca converter. this will allow you to easily add a sub/amp to your factory system. stick with name brand audio, doesn't have to be massively expensive though.

a matched amp/sub/box pushing around 300w RMS should do the job.

Alpine makes great products. I've been running an alpine amp hard for 4+ years and it never skipped a beat. My friend had 2 Type E subs in his old car, and for a 'low end' sub, they were crystal clear and slammed plenty hard.

[muffinman]

you'll need the following: sub, amp, box, amp wiring kit, hi/lo rca converter. this will allow you to easily add a sub/amp to your factory system. stick with name brand audio, doesn't have to be massively expensive though.

a matched amp/sub/box pushing around 300w RMS should do the job.

Alpine makes great products. I've been running an alpine amp hard for 4+ years and it never skipped a beat. My friend had 2 Type E subs in his old car, and for a 'low end' sub, they were crystal clear and slammed plenty hard.

thanks for the info, i've pretty much narrowed it down to JL amp +

1.) ONE 10" Type-E or Type-S Alpine subwoofer (250-300watts RMS, 900 peak) or
2.) ONE 10" JL Audio 10w1v2 (125-150watts RMS, 250-300 peak)

i've heard great things about JL subs but i'm worried 125-150w RMS won't be enough to pump the base throughout the cabin

[VZWalex]

Get a good 10, like JL Audio 10W3v3 and put at least 300 watts to it on a single channel amp. It'll be just the thump you're lookin for.

As for wiring into the stock head unit, I have no idea.

^^ thats what I'm talking about!

this is perfect if you want to add some solid clean bass to your stock system. I have a similiar set up and its perfect. Anything more than that and you should just do a complete sound system cause the bass woud be to overpowering.

[4RingRook]

thanks for the info, i've pretty much narrowed it down to JL amp +

1.) ONE 10" Type-E or Type-S Alpine subwoofer (250-300watts RMS, 900 peak) or
2.) ONE 10" JL Audio 10w1v2 (125-150watts RMS, 250-300 peak)

i've heard great things about JL subs but i'm worried 125-150w RMS won't be enough to pump the base throughout the cabin

I'd go option 2 with JL's 250x1 amp. It'll sound just fine, don't worry.

[b6onboost]

Option 1.

I hate arguing on Audio threads because 'everyone' is all over JL. They are great, but overpriced, and you certainly can get a better sounding system for the same cost by choosing another brand.

[Josh_877]

Option 1.

I hate arguing on Audio threads because 'everyone' is all over JL. They are great, but overpriced, and you certainly can get a better sounding system for the same cost by choosing another brand.

x2, everyone is always on JL's balls. they have great quality, but it might not be what you need.

[Gondi Stylez]

Image Dynamics!

[B7A4Sport]

Option 1.

I hate arguing on Audio threads because 'everyone' is all over JL. They are great, but overpriced, and you certainly can get a better sounding system for the same cost by choosing another brand.

I'll agree JL is a bit overpriced, but it also depends on how you think about money; I have owned a 10W7 and a 500/1 to power it for over 6 years, and not only does the setup still sound amazing, there really hasn't been anything else developed to compete/compare with it. All things considered, for the quality you get out of your money, there really is no better "value" than JL when you consider most people who would do this mod will always want some sort of sub in their car.

Sure, you can go throw some Alpine or Fosgate that may have bigger numbers on it into the trunk for the same price, but stuff from those brands just doesn't have the staying power when they're re-designing stuff every year or two trying to keep up with JL . Not to mention, JL is still one of the only brands to make stand-alone amps that have regulated-power capabilities - the guy above who says he has a 1000 watt amp is maybe getting 4-500 out of it, at best, unless he's running multiple batteries and a cap. A JL 500/1 can push up to 700 watts in certain situations.

[4RingRook]

I'll agree JL is a bit overpriced, but it also depends on how you think about money; I have owned a 10W7 and a 500/1 to power it for over 6 years, and not only does the setup still sound amazing, there really hasn't been anything else developed to compete/compare with it. All things considered, for the quality you get out of your money, there really is no better "value" than JL when you consider most people who would do this mod will always want some sort of sub in their car.

Sure, you can go throw some Alpine or Fosgate that may have bigger numbers on it into the trunk for the same price, but stuff from those brands just doesn't have the staying power when they're re-designing stuff every year or two trying to keep up with JL . Not to mention, JL is still one of the only brands to make stand-alone amps that have regulated-power capabilities - the guy above who says he has a 1000 watt amp is maybe getting 4-500 out of it, at best, unless he's running multiple batteries and a cap. A JL 500/1 can push up to 700 watts in certain situations.

I'm with you man.

You're not on a companies balls if they make a quality product. You're on their balls if their product is below average and overpriced, which JL is not.

For the record, I've also had Kicker subs in previous cars. I just prefer the JL Audio equipment. Like anything else though, to each their own.

[VZWalex]

x2, everyone is always on JL's balls. they have great quality, but it might not be what you need.

^^^^

Damn .. I dont know what to say without sounding like a prick... but here goes..

Theres 4 types of buyers

1. the ones who work hard to get what they *NEED* and *WANT*
2. The ones that want the good stuff but can't afford it so they buy
something that is still respectable and it's all is good.
3. the ones who can just plainly afford it .. so they buy it.
4. The haters .. who buy something else .. aren't happy with it and hate on
others who have or recommend good stuff to fellow members, friends, fam,
Etc;... just cause they are haters ...


Seriously ... I think its hilarious. someone asks for an Opinion .. not for your hating... If you are happy with what you have ... make your suggestion based on your experience without having to put others down for what they have. I mean what do you know as far as what he needs??? what proof do you have?
I mean seriously ... I went through 4 subs all diff makes and models b4 I settled for my JL 10w3. And why?? because it was perfect ! for the job ! and nothing else in the price range and size could compete with it. simple as that. and thats my opinion based on my experiences. wurd!


*EDIT* I cant say much about the overpriced cause I don't think they are.. .and I have a Friend with a Shop so he hooks it up !!!! it's not what you know but WHO you know! Anyone interested in the LA area for sounds Hit me up . His shop is in LA, Ca >>>>>> peace !!

[WhiteVenomA4]

Combine JL and Alpine they work really well together.

I personally had 2 JL 10" W7's. Which is probably wayyyyy too much then what your looking for.

Go for this for best sound results.
1 JL 10" W6v2
powered by 1 500/1 JL Amp.
and a Decent Powercap to maintain power balance.

as for speakers in the car... go for MB Quarts.
I promise you it will hit the spot.

[muffinman]

Combine JL and Alpine they work really well together.

I personally had 2 JL 10" W7's. Which is probably wayyyyy too much then what your looking for.

Go for this for best sound results.
1 JL 10" W6v2
powered by 1 500/1 JL Amp.
and a Decent Powercap to maintain power balance.

as for speakers in the car... go for MB Quarts.
I promise you it will hit the spot.

Thanks for the feedback man... I'd love to go with an all JL setup like the one you listed but I ain't got no money in the bank

I don't want ball-shattering, mirror shaking bass... I just want to fill out the sound and have SOME sort of substage. So as of now, unless someone can convince me otherwise, I'll be getting

1.) 10" JL Audio 10w1v2 125-150watts RMS, 300 peak
2.) Alpine M450 Amp 250w RMS
3.) Q-Logic Enclosure, something decent looking.. not the standard black/gray box

The wattage is a little low for the subwoofer, but I've heard JL underestimates their output and the driver is much more capable than it seems.

For the amp wiring kit... what do the gauges mean? Which one will I need?

Side-note.. anyone know anything about this? sound quality, SPL or SQ?, enclosure, fitment in our trunks
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+P3L-S10.html#
It looks so slick

Thanks

[Josh_877]

^^^^

Damn .. I dont know what to say without sounding like a prick... but here goes..

Theres 4 types of buyers

1. the ones who work hard to get what they *NEED* and *WANT*
2. The ones that want the good stuff but can't afford it so they buy
something that is still respectable and it's all is good.
3. the ones who can just plainly afford it .. so they buy it.
4. The haters .. who buy something else .. aren't happy with it and hate on
others who have or recommend good stuff to fellow members, friends, fam,
Etc;... just cause they are haters ...


Seriously ... I think its hilarious. someone asks for an Opinion .. not for your hating... If you are happy with what you have ... make your suggestion based on your experience without having to put others down for what they have. I mean what do you know as far as what he needs??? what proof do you have?
I mean seriously ... I went through 4 subs all diff makes and models b4 I settled for my JL 10w3. And why?? because it was perfect ! for the job ! and nothing else in the price range and size could compete with it. simple as that. and thats my opinion based on my experiences. wurd!


*EDIT* I cant say much about the overpriced cause I don't think they are.. .and I have a Friend with a Shop so he hooks it up !!!! it's not what you know but WHO you know! Anyone interested in the LA area for sounds Hit me up . His shop is in LA, Ca >>>>>> peace !!

i didnt say anything bad about JL, in fact i said they have great quality. i dont know what he "NEEDS" thats why i wrote "BUT, it may not be what you need". maybe you should read my post before quoting me and not reading what i wrote.

[4RingRook]

Thanks for the feedback man... I'd love to go with an all JL setup like the one you listed but I ain't got no money in the bank

I don't want ball-shattering, mirror shaking bass... I just want to fill out the sound and have SOME sort of substage. So as of now, unless someone can convince me otherwise, I'll be getting

1.) 10" JL Audio 10w1v2 125-150watts RMS, 300 peak
2.) Alpine M450 Amp 250w RMS
3.) Q-Logic Enclosure, something decent looking.. not the standard black/gray box

The wattage is a little low for the subwoofer, but I've heard JL underestimates their output and the driver is much more capable than it seems.

For the amp wiring kit... what do the gauges mean? Which one will I need?

Side-note.. anyone know anything about this? sound quality, SPL or SQ?, enclosure, fitment in our trunks
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+P3L-S10.html#
It looks so slick

Thanks

Amp wiring kits are usually sorted by wattage output (upto 200/300/500, so on..). The lower the gauge(2,4 vs 16), the thicker the cable. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but for that setup, I would use an 8-gauge power wire. StreetSounds makes good wiring kits. There are a lot of them out there though. The brands are slipping my mind right now though...

Edit: I didnt see the link until after, but I would avoid a box that slim, the sub won't hit b/c its choking for air. Unless its a special small enclosure sub, which I didn't see noted on the product page.

[B7A4Sport]

Amp wiring kits are usually sorted by wattage output (upto 200/300/500, so on..). The lower the gauge(2,4 vs 16), the thicker the cable. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but for that setup, I would use an 8-gauge power wire. StreetSounds makes good wiring kits. There are a lot of them out there though. The brands are slipping my mind right now though...

Edit: I didnt see the link until after, but I would avoid a box that slim, the sub won't hit b/c its choking for air. Unless its a special small enclosure sub, which I didn't see noted on the product page.

Hehe, the brands are probably slipping your mind because the best idea is to go with something fairly generic. Brands like Monster seem to think flashy packaging and product dressing is necessary for speaker wiring, when in reality you're just paying WAY more for nearly the same stuff.

That isn't to say that Monster isn't a quality product, but they are very much in the same ball-park as the people who are flaming JL for being overpriced. However, I think that concept applies much more to Monster than it does to JL, because there really are a lot of unique things about that brand to concretely separate it from the rest.

[davis449]

I'd go option 2 with JL's 250x1 amp. It'll sound just fine, don't worry.

Yeah, option 2 is what I'm running, Alpine Amp.

[muffinman]

Rook, A4Sport, and davis, thanks for the JL and wiring info.

I'll be going with a .625 or .7 cubic sq. ft. sealed enclosure.. is it important to stick with "brand" name boxes (Q-Logic)?

I only ask, because I found cheaper, better looking no-name enclosures but I've read that the box I choose is crucial to how well my sub will sound. So is choosing boxes a "Monster vs. generic wiring" type of thing or "Best Buy brand vs. JL subs"

[WhiteVenomA4]

Rook, A4Sport, and davis, thanks for the JL and wiring info.

I'll be going with a .625 or .7 cubic sq. ft. sealed enclosure.. is it important to stick with "brand" name boxes (Q-Logic)?

I only ask, because I found cheaper, better looking no-name enclosures but I've read that the box I choose is crucial to how well my sub will sound. So is choosing boxes a "Monster vs. generic wiring" type of thing or "Best Buy brand vs. JL subs"

Yes it is crucial that you have a decent box, the amount of airflow/space will effect the sound quality. Custom boxes are always a good way to go, but premades are fine as well.
As for cables... always always always go with Monster cables. It is very important to have good cables for a system.

Btw.. Kickers or Fosgates are also good options for you. As far as i can remember KICKERS are not that expensive. 1 12" or 10" J7 will be plenty. Run it with Fosgate amps. or JL.. Yes JL will be a bit pricey but worth the quality.

Q: Do you plan on changing your head unit ?

[muffinman]

Yes it is crucial that you have a decent box, the amount of airflow/space will effect the sound quality. Custom boxes are always a good way to go, but premades are fine as well.
As for cables... always always always go with Monster cables. It is very important to have good cables for a system.

Btw.. Kickers or Fosgates are also good options for you. As far as i can remember KICKERS are not that expensive. 1 12" or 10" J7 will be plenty. Run it with Fosgate amps. or JL.. Yes JL will be a bit pricey but worth the quality.

Q: Do you plan on changing your head unit ?

I'm going with a pre-made hatchback style... if it's not custom, it doesn't really matter what "brand" the pre-made boxes are, correct?

No, I upgraded from Symphony II+ to RNS-e navigation headunit and the RNS-e was a big improvement in sound quality. I'm happy with the mids and highs from the RNS-e... just want to add some bass

Thanks

[bcramer]

I really wanted to stay out of this thread because when forums based on performance/appearance mods get involved in car audio it always ends in some sort of shit show of people who offer advice that they heard someone say when really they have no clue what they're talking about.

If you want some really serious advice and knowledge in car audio go to www.diymobileaudio.com/forum The people there really know their stuff and as far as I'm concerned it is the best source for car audio.

I'm going with a pre-made hatchback style... if it's not custom, it doesn't really matter what "brand" the pre-made boxes are, correct?

No, I upgraded from Symphony II+ to RNS-e navigation headunit and the RNS-e was a big improvement in sound quality. I'm happy with the mids and highs from the RNS-e... just want to add some bass
Thanks

Is there a specific reason you are going with pre-made wedge style of box? In one of your earlier posts you said that you liked the way the box looked...keep in mind that you're not going to looking at your sub/box when driving. You're going to be listening to it. Function > Form always

Pre-made boxes sound like a good idea but you need to careful when purchasing one.

1. Make sure that there is some quality construction behind it. At least 1/2in MDF or other wood. That is 100% sealed or that the port length/volume is correct.

2. The volume of the enclosure is correct for the subwoofer going into it.

Also, when it comes to wiring don't buy Monster. You are throwing your money in the shitter. I'm not saying they don't make a quality product, but it is beyond over priced. Check out Street Wires, Knu Koncepts, Rockford Fosgate. What really matters when it comes to your wiring is:

1.The guage of the wiring actually is what it says it is. Meaning that the metal itself is the correct thickness not just the plastic sorround.

2. Make sure that your RCAs are shielded!

Chances are you will end up going through a couple set ups before you're truly satisfied. Please do check out diymobileaudio.com, just make a post stating what you're looking for out of the sub, what your budget is and that you have little to no experience in car audio...you will receive plenty of help. More so than here.

p.s. I'm in no way affiliated with DIYMA, I receive nothing for you going there.

If you're willing to have a box custom made for you then I would recommend the Dayton HO 10in sub. You can find it on www.partsexpress.com

Link for Dayton 10in.

[WhiteVenomA4]

I'm going with a pre-made hatchback style... if it's not custom, it doesn't really matter what "brand" the pre-made boxes are, correct?

No, I upgraded from Symphony II+ to RNS-e navigation headunit and the RNS-e was a big improvement in sound quality. I'm happy with the mids and highs from the RNS-e... just want to add some bass

Thanks

Usually for plain boxes brands dont really matter. But if your looking for something different who knows. Pre-made Brand boxes.. could be quite iffy. if you put it in a glass enclosure.. it should sound badass. All that really matters is that there is enough airflow to receive best quality sound.
I just got my Audi A4 '08 B7.. this tuesday, and i was surprised at how big the trunk was...
as long as there is enough space you'll get that bump in your trunk.

tell me what brands for subs and amps u eventually decide to get... make sure u get a capacitor .. i highly recommend it.

[bcramer]

tell me what brands for subs and amps u eventually decide to get... make sure u get a capacitor .. i highly recommend it.

Do you even know what a capacitor is used for or when it is correct to use one?

With the amount of power the OP is talking about using there is absolutely no reason why he would even need to think about or consider using/buying one. Don't wasted your money.

[WhiteVenomA4]

Do you even know what a capacitor is used for or when it is correct to use one?

With the amount of power the OP is talking about using there is absolutely no reason why he would even need to think about or consider using/buying one. Don't wasted your money.

LOL this guy. Don't "WASTED" your money. nice. Anyways.
Sorry but yes I do have my own personal experience with sounds.

I'm not ANALY detailed about EXACT specification for this guy. Get some self control there TURBO.
I was only giving him friendly, some what helpful advice.

[muffinman]

Venon, cramer - thanks for the info

Yes, I did some research and know what size enclosure to get.. .625 cubic ft. sealed seems to be the recommended size for the JL 10w1v2 for a nice, clean, tight sound.

The general consensus also seems to be that I do not need a capacitor for the system that I'm trying to run, but I always appreciate the heads-up

Looks are secondary to performance but if possible, I do want something DECENT looking.

Venom - by glass, you mean fiberglass, right? Could you point me to some sites that sell decent looking see-through enclosures (plexiglass, etc.)? I found some decent looking Q-Logic 10" boxes on ebay but a see-through one would be cool

[davis449]

I went with Q-Logic sealed and have been happy for two years, almost 3.

[bcramer]

LOL this guy. Don't "WASTED" your money. nice. Anyways.
Sorry but yes I do have my own personal experience with sounds.

I'm not ANALY detailed about EXACT specification for this guy. Get some self control there TURBO.
I was only giving him friendly, some what helpful advice.

Personal experience with sounds...and you want to give me a hard time about a typo. May want to check your word choice there.

I never said anything about exact specifications either. Too many people think that a capacitor is a necessity for an install and tell people to buy one. More often than not, one is not needed. Therefore being a waste of money.

I was giving helpful advice. That's all I've done.

[muffinman]

4RingRook -

The Rockford enclosed 10" sub package does indeed use a shallow mount subwoofer:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YgsseOS...x?i=575P3SD210

Is the SQ for these shallow depth subwoofers as good as regular subs?

[WhiteVenomA4]

Here are 2 site examples.
1. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s+Style+-.html

2. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ox-+2BV12.html

[bcramer]

4RingRook -

The Rockford enclosed 10" sub package does indeed use a shallow mount subwoofer:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YgsseOS...x?i=575P3SD210

Is the SQ for these shallow depth subwoofers as good as regular subs?

Short answer, no.

Because they're shallow mount their xmax is generally significantly smaller. That means that they're going to have a harder time reproducing the lowest frequencies at any sort of listening volume.

The sub will reach it's physicals limits more quickly than a regular subwoofer.

That being said, there have been plenty of people who have been satisfied with them depending on their application. There have also been people who were never really ever able to get them to work for their personal tastes/goals of their system.

[muffinman]

Short answer, no.

Because they're shallow mount their xmax is generally significantly smaller. That means that they're going to have a harder time reproducing the lowest frequencies at any sort of listening volume.

The sub will reach it's physicals limits more quickly than a regular subwoofer.

That being said, there have been plenty of people who have been satisfied with them depending on their application. There have also been people who were never really ever able to get them to work for their personal tastes/goals of their system.

Makes sense.

I asked a guy selling dual 8" subs in a custom enclosure what the impedance was and this was his response:

"The subs are single 4 ohm voice coils. You will need a amp that is 2 ohm stable mono or just run them in stereo. If you need help let me know which amp you have."

Does that make sense? I thought I would need a 4ohm amp for those subs.

Also, all things considered equal, big diff. betwee using two 8inchers vs. one 10" sub?

[bcramer]

Makes sense.

I asked a guy selling dual 8" subs in a custom enclosure what the impedance was and this was his response:

"The subs are single 4 ohm voice coils. You will need a amp that is 2 ohm stable mono or just run them in stereo. If you need help let me know which amp you have."

Does that make sense? I thought I would need a 4ohm amp for those subs.

Also, all things considered equal, big diff. betwee using two 8inchers vs. one 10" sub?

I understand why you would think that. However, you would want to wire the subs in parallel which would present a 2 ohm load to your amp. He was correct in what he said. Image for reference.



As far as running one 10" vs. two 8"

I wish I had the software on my computer to show the difference. Essentially, it's almost neglible and depends mostly on the enclosure used. Generally speaking, there is normally ~3db increase going from 8" to 10" (that's assuming all else is equal). So, you're basically breaking even from two 8" vs one 10".

He says it's a custom enclosure, is it sealed, ported, bandpass? Also, has he said what frequency he has tuned it to? Also, if you're buying this make sure you have the opportunity to listen to them first and see what kind of setup he is running. What kind of car, amp, etc.

If I were you, I would go with a single 10" and build my own box to spec. You can pick up some MDF for about $30 and the other materials needed for about another $30 more. If you don't have the tools or skill necessary to build your own box someone in your area will. Chances are, they'll be willing to do it for beer as well.

If you're even considering going this route, you can check out www.woofersetc.com. They have great deals on woofers, amps, etc. A decent quality DVC (dual voice coil) 10" woofer would suit your needs fantastically and would be recommendation to most people.

Example sub: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2118

Matched amp: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3732