Just bought my first A4!.. PROBLEMS! HELP!

[Sobo]

I sold my old audi 90, and bought an a4!

I bought a silver 1997 A4, 1.8T Quattro 5 speed with sports package. Its got an MTM chip(any good? advertised as 50hp and torque) and a Borla exhaust system. It's also got a K&N airfilter. 144,000 miles. Engine rebuilt due to sludge(recall from audi) 30,000 miles ago and front end completely built 10,000 miles ago.

It's really quick and a blast to drive! But, PLEASE HELP

1. The engine ticks when cold and warmed up. It also ticks while idling and faster when revved. It sound like it's coming from the belts and whatnot from the front more than anywhere else. Is this bad? If so what is it?

2. This is what really concerns me. I can drive my car from start to 5th and wind it out. No problem. But when I'm coasting at 50 and want to go to 65 in 5th, when the turbo kicks in the car hesitates and loses and gains power sporadically until I let off the gas(hesitation). Slowly accelerating doesn't make the problem happen though. Why?

3. The front left part of my suspension makes popping noises when I go over bumps. The left does not. Whats wrong?

My car is throwing no codes. I've seafoamed it through the crank and gas tank. I run 91 octane gas. It has new mobile 1 oil with a mobile 1 oil filter.

Thanks!

[DJmuggs]

you got one problem as i see it,

you bought a car with 140k miles on it...

[JMG]

I sold my old audi 90, and bought an a4!

I bought a silver 1997 A4, 1.8T Quattro 5 speed with sports package. Its got an MTM chip(any good? advertised as 50hp and torque) and a Borla exhaust system. It's also got a K&N airfilter. 144,000 miles. Engine rebuilt due to sludge(recall from audi) 30,000 miles ago and front end completely built 10,000 miles ago.

It's really quick and a blast to drive! But, PLEASE HELP

1. The engine ticks when cold and warmed up. It also ticks while idling and faster when revved. It sound like it's coming from the belts and whatnot from the front more than anywhere else. Is this bad? If so what is it?

2. This is what really concerns me. I can drive my car from start to 5th and wind it out. No problem. But when I'm coasting at 50 and want to go to 65 in 5th, when the turbo kicks in the car hesitates and loses and gains power sporadically until I let off the gas(hesitation). Slowly accelerating doesn't make the problem happen though. Why?

3. The front left part of my suspension makes popping noises when I go over bumps. The left does not. Whats wrong?

My car is throwing no codes. I've seafoamed it through the crank and gas tank. I run 91 octane gas. It has new mobile 1 oil with a mobile 1 oil filter.

Thanks!

1. U sure it's not pinging? Pinging is bad.
2. Sounds like a misfire. Check your spark plugs. Could also be a boost leak.
3. Sounds like you need new suspension.

[biketsai]

1. It is probably the valve ticking that occurs in all/most 1.8Ts, not a problem.
2. Misfire maybe, boost leak? check plugs too as stated above.
3. x2, you probably have somehting in the suspension department worn out.

[legionvr6]

you got one problem as i see it,

you bought a car with 140k miles on it...

dude theirs nothing wrong with high miles on a german engine. my old VR had 240K when i sold it and the guy drove it home with a craped out coil pack.



to the OP do a boost leak test and do a full tune up.

[Rico750]

you got one problem as i see it,

you bought a car with 140k miles on it...

yeah that was very helpfull (not)

ticking could be valve.. (start with an oil change if not yet done)

start the car, run it idle and pop the hood. Stick your head in there and try to locate/trace the ticker.. probably from the valve cover area... see if you can get a vehicle history.. make sure the timig belt is done.

the other issue sounds like boost leak.. very common .. use the search option on how to look for boost leaks.

[Siena]

Ticking could be an idler, or just valve opening and closing.

The hesitation at full throttle, relieved by easing up on the gas pedal, sounds like a MAF issue.

Get some codes pulled, best way to find out.

As for 140,000 miles, no issues. My car's clocked 210,000 miles and still going strong.

[Stampy]

I had a ticking that I couldn't locate one time. I finally did. It was the lower timing belt cover bolts not being tightened down enough. They were rubbing on the Crank pulley. The bolts were actually grinding down as was the pulley.

[Sobo]

Hey! Thanks all.

Okay, let me describe the ticking noise a bit more.

It's kinda now a squeek *pause* squeek deal. I'm thinking its either the water pump(2 years old) or the belts.

Either way, I'm due for a new timing belt.

I'm going to change the plugs tomorrow, hopefully that helps a bit.

My car is not throwing any codes.

[GBW]

you can still have misfires and not throw codes. Use the VAG-COM to check the 115 blocks to validate requested boost with actual boost, block 020 to see if there is any retardation on any cylinder. Coil Packs, Spark Plugs and boost leaks are all suspect. Do a pressure test also.

[Sobo]

How do get ahold of, or use vag-com to check my car?

Do I go to the dealer?

Sorry guys...I'm a noob.

[Rico750]

How do get ahold of, or use vag-com to check my car?

Do I go to the dealer?

Sorry guys...I'm a noob.

dealer - detailed vag report: 100$
autozone : 0$ but allmost no details
get vag version 3 or 4 off the web and get an ebay cable .. DIY $12

[Sobo]

Hey. Update!

I changed the plugs today. The car runs worse...

I have no idea whats going on...

So I have it narrowed down:

Ignition problems?

Also, the asshole that owned it before didn't upgrade the stock DV with the chip.

Could that be causing the problem?

[InTTruder]

Nice description of the previous owner. Perhaps he had a budget. Get over it nad put a new DV in if you "think" it's the problem.

BUT-
A DV shouldn't cause misfires. You also could have the mysterious 'tracking' I've seen on the Jetta wiring harness to the CP, or you may need to get out and gap betwen .028 and .032 on a NEW set of plugs. The loss of power under boost could be a torn DV diaphragm, loose hose connection, or one of your N valves is malfunctioning.

[InTTruder]

BTW-
MTM is good software. I've had one in my TTQC (GIAC in the Avant) and NEVER had a CEL in 7 years.

[Sobo]

Well, the old owner didn't do it so now it's another thing i have to worry about.

The entire engine was rebuilt 30k ago(belts, tensioners, and oil sludge stuff)

It has new plugs, gapped to .032 and it still misfires/stutteres/hesitates. Its not all the time, but pretty much most of the time it will hesitate.

I cleaned the MAF sensor, it didn't help. I tightened some of the connection lines. There is no holes/cracks in the IC either.

The car idles and revs fine, but under strain it will hesitate when it hits boost.

Could it be the coil packs?

[Stampy]

Cleaning the MAF is worthless. I have never seen that work. I would put my money on a vacuum line somewhere. I had one just fall off one time. Car ran fine, but boost would not go over 7. What kind of plugs did you get? They should probably be gapped to .028

[Sobo]

I got champion plugs, but the repair manual I have says .032 for gapping.

The old plugs were fine though, not fouled or burnt or anything out of the ordinary.

[Seerlah]

Get 710n diverter valve (cheap) and regap your plugs to .028"

[palmerlaker]

I had the same type of problem, sputtering @ 3000-4500 rpm. It might be the suction pump (20$ @ purems) or the l-shape hose that comes off of it (cracked). Its located back of the engine on the right hand side and looks like Y-shaped valve. Mine was broken and came apart. If all looks good try a boost leak DIY to isolate the problem.



palmerlaker
2001 A4 1.8tm stock