Upgrade factory Sub (in factory location?)

[Mikef5000]

Anybody ever upgrade the factory sub, but keep factory location?

The only reason I'm asking is because I happened to come across an amp that I bought a couple years ago, and it would be perfect to power a small (!) sub like this. (150 watt)

Kicker makes an 8" Free-Air sub, but it may be too deep. The factory one is really crammed in there.


Anybody know of one that is not to deep? I can't bring myself to spend $100 just to find out it won't fit.

Let's keep any "free-air sucks" and "150 watt is not worth it" type of talk away from this thread. I know what (little) to expect, I just want a bit more punch than the factory sub is giving me.

Anyone know how many watt's the factory sub/amp is?

[Capt. Obvious]

I believe the factory sub is 80 watts and runs at 2ohms.

[mattman]

i wondered the same thing at one point but eventually gave up (giving a shit :-D )
lol but i have herd (don't know how true it is) that the "marine applications" subwoofers should work in the stock location. i think somebody on here did it but it was a PITA....just can't remember who.

[Mikef5000]

I know the factory sub is 4 ohm, that's about all that's written on it that I can translate.

Those Kicker's are Very thin, I think about 2.5". Seems like it'd be my best bet... problem is they are only sold in pairs! I just want one!

[Capt. Obvious]

How much are they? I might be interested in splitting it with you.

I know the factory sub is 4 ohm, that's about all that's written on it that I can translate.

Those Kicker's are Very thin, I think about 2.5". Seems like it'd be my best bet... problem is they are only sold in pairs! I just want one!

[Mikef5000]

Like So:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-SSMB8-MB-...QQcmdZViewItem

$100 new shipped.

BTW, these are considered "Mid-Bass". It appears they only go down to 30 Hz, Where as a standard sub goes down to 20 Hz. They are the best I can find so far.

Info about the subs here: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...3&tp=111&avf=N

I'd like to find one more like a true sub with more travel and down to 20 Hz, but in an 8" free air, the options are limited.

[sphinx]

Great thread! I've been wondering the same thing, and trying to research on here and AG but had no luck. Good info, hopefully someone will find a free-air that goes down to 20hz! I would buy in a second.

[Mikef5000]

Hrm. I've found another... but once we get into true "subwoofer" instead of the Kicker "Mid-Bass", then we're getting into 4-5" depth, which would definitely NOT fit in the factory location.
Here


JL audio Made one too, Model # 8IB4:

But it was discontinued.

[akaEsCo01]

I found this when I thought of this idea, just never pulled the trigger.

E Design SQ10

[Mikef5000]

But that's 10". Did you have a plan of how to squeaze that into the factory hole?

I'm looking at all the free air subs on crutchfield.com, and not a one goes down to 20 Hz.

Makes that Kicker "mid-bass" more tempting.

[Mikef5000]

There's a slightly used set of the kickers that just came on ebay. If the price stays resonable, I might pick them up.
Ebay Linky

If it can handle 175 watt, I'm sure it'd be a noticable upgrade from the factory unit. I'd also be shocked if the factory unit can play lower than 30 Hz.

[Mikef5000]

I found one!
Pioneer Shallow Series TS-SW841D 8" Free Air

Pioneer.com Information here

It's a true "Subwoofer".

BUT, it still only goes down to 30 Hz. They are going for about $80 new on the Bay.

I tend to think Kicker is a better brand than Pioneer. But I can only find one review on the kickers, and it's not great... but I've found quite a few reviews of these pioneers, and people seem to really like them!

[BARRY]

i am running a 10inch kicker compVT sub. i had to do a lot of bracketing and mounting to make it fit, but i can always go back to the factory setup.

its a 800watt max 400watt RMS sub.

shallow mount also. I need to find some time to do a write up for my install.


http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CompVT-.../dp/B000MRUURE

basically it sounds decent. a little more powerful than the factory sub. actually some might say a lot more powerful, but it is very limited due to the fact that i am running it free-air / infinate baffle. i am going to see if i can make a box for it within the factory location when i have time. if this sub is in a box it should HIT!

[Mikef5000]

Wait.... you successfully fit a 10" shallow sub in the factory spot???????? Pictures Pictures Pictures!!!
I'm guessing it's deeper into the trunk in order for it to fit?

[Mikef5000]

This is interesting... this website shows that the factory sub is considered a 10":


I was looking at this company because they sell both the Pioneer and the Kickers for good prices, which means if one didn't work out, I could swap it out for the other.

But now I guess I need to go measure the exact hole in the deck, and see if one will even fit.

[kepone]

You can also look into Illusion Audio subs if you can find them, really shallow mounting depth and amazing sound quality..

If you have money to burn, the best shallow sub hands down is the Phase Linear Aliante.

[-Audi_tuning-]

Rockford makes a thin series sub, Idk if it comes in an 8 or a 6 but I know they're rediculusly slim... and they pound pretty well, but not too loud... just my .02

[Mikef5000]

Considering I'm leaving the stock speakers... I don't think I need to spring for the best sub possible.

And I glanced at the Rockford subs, but I didn't think they were free air.

[Mikef5000]

Less than two days till the ebay ones sell. If the price stays LOW, I'll pick them up and give it a try.

I've got to get out and measure to see if it'll even be possible.

[akaEsCo01]

I'm pretty sure a 10" fits, the last thread I saw about this is where I got the link for the E Design SQ10 sub and if I could find it gain, I think tht guy got it in.

[Mikef5000]

Wow! That Elemental Design SQ10 seems like one hell of a Sub for a great price!
Linky here



SQ10 Dimensions:
Cutout Diameter: 9.125"
Mounting Depth: 3.000"
Total Height: 3.400"
Outside Diameter: 10.250"
RMS Wattage: 50-300

Kicker SS8MB Dimensions:
Top Mount Depth (inches) 2 5/16
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) 2 5/8
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 7 3/8
RMS Wattages: 40-175

[1point8teeNW]

I've been wanting to do this too except with a JL 10W7. Cone facing the window, custom build a box that "hangs" below the rear deck into the trunk just a tad

[Mikef5000]

I'd go that route if I wanted some serious bass, but I'm just looking for a slight boost over the factory. Cost is a huge factor too, and I already have a high quality small amp... so a small sub to mate with it is what I'm looking for.

[617 Bones]

I took out my factory sub and I use the space to store a bottle of antifreeze, some p/s fluid, and some windshield washer fluid.

[akaEsCo01]

Wow! That Elemental Design SQ10 seems like one hell of a Sub for a great price!
Linky here
http://www.edesignaudio.com/gallery/86_large.jpg
http://www.edesignaudio.com/logos/IM..._MAINLARGE.jpg

SQ10 Dimensions:
Cutout Diameter: 9.125"
Mounting Depth: 3.000"
Total Height: 3.400"
Outside Diameter: 10.250"
RMS Wattage: 50-300

Kicker SS8MB Dimensions:
Top Mount Depth (inches) 2 5/16
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) 2 5/8
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 7 3/8
RMS Wattages: 40-175

I know, that's why I mentioned it twice lol

[Mikef5000]

I measured the hole in the deck; right about 8 3/4". I'd need to cut out a good 1/4" to make that ED sub work.

Hmmmmm.

Anybody have any tricks to cut that metal ring out a bit? I could probably use an angle grinder or dremel, but I think it'd look like hell.

[BARRY]

you can't cut the hole larger. the mounting locations are not flush so you could not bolt up the sub correctly even if you wanted to.

[junkie1.8TQ]

pretty good tread trying to figure something out for the factory sub location also. Good info...

[actlsub9]

I am in the process of doing a dual 10" infinite baffle sub setup on the rear deck. One of the subs will be mounted in the stock sub location. The 3/4" MDF mounting rings for 10" woofers come in today so I will see how well one of them fits in the stock hole. The ring will go on top of the deck while the woofer will sit on top of that with the magnet hanging down into the trunk.

[akaEsCo01]

Keep us posted Greg, I plan on working on my interior once my exterior is finished

[Mikef5000]

you can't cut the hole larger. the mounting locations are not flush so you could not bolt up the sub correctly even if you wanted to.

Unless I made a plywood ring and bolted it to the deck, then screwed the sub into it. I'm not worried about a seal since it's free-air, but I do want it to be solid.

And deffinately keep us posted with your results!

[actlsub9]

Unless I made a plywood ring and bolted it to the deck, then screwed the sub into it. I'm not worried about a seal since it's free-air, but I do want it to be solid.

And deffinately keep us posted with your results!

Just because it it going to be an infinite baffle (or close enough) doesn't mean that you don't seal everything off. The seal is very important. The idea is to separate the rear wave of the sub from the front wave so you only hear the front wave. You must seal off around the sub and all of those holes in the rear deck to get the best results.

FWIW I placed the MDF mounting ring for a 10" sub in the stock location and cutting the sheet would be necessary. An 8" sub *might* work without cutting.

I have cut out the stock hole larger to fit the 10" mounting ring on mine as well as cut a second hole on the passenger side for an additional mounting ring for another 10" sub. Once I have both mounting rings mounted and everything sealed up I will take some pics before the subs go in.

[BARRY]

Unless I made a plywood ring and bolted it to the deck, then screwed the sub into it. I'm not worried about a seal since it's free-air, but I do want it to be solid.

And deffinately keep us posted with your results!

been there...done that. i actually had to use 3 sub rings to drop the sub correctly. and you need it somewhat sealed or it farts when the sub works.

i've been so lazy to complete a write up. I need to take more pics first.

[Mikef5000]

Just because it it going to be an infinite baffle (or close enough) doesn't mean that you don't seal everything off. The seal is very important.

Good to know!

Where are you all sourcing your plywood rings?

[koolade9]

Good to know!

Where are you all sourcing your plywood rings?

3/4" mdf + rotozip = rings

[koolade9]

Just because it it going to be an infinite baffle (or close enough) doesn't mean that you don't seal everything off. The seal is very important. The idea is to separate the rear wave of the sub from the front wave so you only hear the front wave. You must seal off around the sub and all of those holes in the rear deck to get the best results.

FWIW I placed the MDF mounting ring for a 10" sub in the stock location and cutting the sheet would be necessary. An 8" sub *might* work without cutting.

I have cut out the stock hole larger to fit the 10" mounting ring on mine as well as cut a second hole on the passenger side for an additional mounting ring for another 10" sub. Once I have both mounting rings mounted and everything sealed up I will take some pics before the subs go in.

+1 you still need to seal the s#it out of it and deaden that baffle as much as possible...

Greg, you runnin 2 10" idmax on the rear deck? I'd like a peek at this...

For anyone doing this, as a little tip, modeling clay works wonders on rear deck installs to contour those uneven gaps and reduce resonance. Use between your mounting ring, and the rear deck sheetmetal.

[JMRQuattro]

you could also try rockford fosgate. Their punch series subs come in a shallow. And they are really great subs. My friend has a pair and he loves them. They provide quite a bit of boom for low wattage subs.

[Mikef5000]

deaden that baffle as much as possible...

What does that mean?

[HamidsVikes]

How hard could it be to modify the sub location to fit a deeper sub?
cant be that tough!

[koolade9]

What does that mean?

Sheet metal resonates fairly easily, giving you a variety of rattles and jiggles... Things to focus on:

-mass-load the sheetmetal (rear deck) to keep it from resonating (dynamat, fiberglas resign, clay, etc...)
-seal up any and all holes that connect the rear deck with the trunk space
-use some type of closed cell foam in between the rear deck and the rear interior panel to further isolate the trunk

You can take it much further, but just start with that for now...