Just thought you guys should know.....

[Bryson]

as some of you have seen already, i bought 17.5mm spacers for my OEM 17inch wheels, and i was just going to say they are awesome and NO VIBRATIONS!

everyone was saying on threads that spacers are sketchy and vibrate and you have to torque them down to a specific lb.

all i did was put them on and tighten the lugs as normal, no problems at all!

just a piece of mind for those considering getting spacers and worried about road vibrations.

*results may differ on non-oem wheels obviously*

[Kschroers1]

If their hubcentric, they won't vibrate. Only time people feel vibration is if their not hubcentric or torqued them incorrectly. Hell my MRR's on my car are not hubcentric and the fix for that is a good set of hubrings and i have absolutly no vibrations at all. As long as the whole surface of the face of the rotor/hub, are touching, you have a complete seal and in most cases will not vibrate.

[autoverruckt]

should always torque regardless.

[Sharkfin]

pics???

[LAS]

Wheel Lug Torquing

IMPORTANT!

Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. Sometimes these torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, however more often than not you will need to refer to your vehicle's shop manual or obtain them from your vehicle dealer/service provider.

Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels.

A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.



Use the dry wheel lug torque values specified in the vehicle's owner's manual, shop manual or obtained from the vehicle dealer/service provider. The chart below lists typical torque values that should only be used temporarily until the vehicle's exact torque values can be confirmed.

Since the thickness of an alloy wheel can differ from Original Equipment wheels, also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads. Refer to the chart below to determine the number of turns or the depth of engagement typical for your stud or bolt size.



When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=107

[LAS]

pics???

[davis449]

I don't know, I have mine centered and torqued properly, but my car's always had vibration between 60-85 that comes and goes. I said this in many other threads, but I've always had it regardless of the suspension setup on my car. Other A4 Quattro's I've driven have it too. I wonder...