Somone please convince me its worth it!

[galvan11]

Someone convince me that throughout all this hassle things will be fine!

I guess all us s4 owners know how it is to have our cars just "break" down on us!....But its getting a little frustrating now....

So i do a pass on the highway and BAM I feel a jolt of power loss. So i tell me fiance its no big deal my samco tbb or some hose just popped off. NO check engine light but my car just looses ALL power. I coast it to the offramp into a parking lot. I find nothing torn or broken. I literally thought it was something that popped or tore causing a major boost leak(limp mode).

Cant really describe the smell but it was not a burning smell. Turned the car back on and it sounded like a diesel when you got up close to it and then it just dies.

Whatever it is, it left my fiance and I stranded once again! Don't you guys just sometimes feel like throwing in the towel!??

[Overboostin]

Yes, but then I think about all the ass I get thanks to the s and it's all worth it. Don't forget the ass my friend. Stay strong.

[The_Jerbel]

Check underneath the car for a popped off lower IC hose.

[AudiTechS4]

i think you should sell your s4 to someone who will take care of it and not cry .You should get a Honda because they don't break.

wow you broke down tell us all about it ... no one here is giving in the towel thats why we are here so shhhh... thanks :) I'll give you $20 for your car and i"ll take care of her

[AudiTechS4]

check your coils, sorry in a bad mood from a fellow az'r not following though on a deal

[RolledMySTi]

I thought about getting rid of mine, but then I realized I had fixed most of the major problems and be selling someone a car that finally works. Stick with it and consider this part of you training to be a SAE master technician, because that's what we will all be if we work on these cars ourselves.

[sCeRaXn]

I feel ya man. I havent even made the first payment on mine, and ive already put $600+ into it. Not to mention the $850-900 im about to spend on a new clutch and some other things. I cant help but feel like i got a lemon, but for the price i paid($8500) i cant really complain. Just keep your head up, and think about how badass it is when its running right. This is a German car afterall...i mean you cant really expect Japanese reliability lol. Good luck man.

[Jsmooth65]

As I've stated before: this car is a low-run enthusiast car. It is not for average folks. Personally, if you don't, can't, or won't do your own work (all of it) on this car, its not for you. Also, when something breaks, I get excited because its something new to figure out. Good luck though.

[SonicBlur]

It's not worth it.

-Mike

[RolledMySTi]

As I've stated before: this car is a low-run enthusiast car. It is not for average folks. Personally, if you don't, can't, or won't do your own work (all of it) on this car, its not for you. Also, when something breaks, I get excited because its something new to figure out. Good luck though.

That's the right attitude for these cars. I feel the same way. It may be a pain in the ass, but I've learned more in a year and a half of Audi ownership than I did the 5 years prior.

[nogaroblueaudi]

my cars doing the same thing :(

[Dr. Jekyll]

Sounds like an intercooler hose or something to me too. Just clean up the hose and pipe with some brake cleaner and spray some hairspray on it before you put the hose back on an clamp it. The hairspray will act like a lubricant, making it easier to put the hose back on, but when it dries it's very tacky and keeps the hose from popping off again.

If you have a major boost leak like that again, instead of being stranded just unplug your MAF. You'll still be able to drive your car, without it dying. Obviously don't boost and don't drive like that for a long time because you're sucking in unfiltered air. But at least you wont get stranded.

[andru1313]

My Car has been frustrating me lately as well. I have had one problem after another and they are all expensive. I need to do alot of work on the front end and I can do the work but the parts are alot. UGH. I have thought about throwing in the towel but can't get myself to do it. My wallet may tell me other wise soon enough.

[Jsmooth65]

My Car has been frustrating me lately as well. I have had one problem after another and they are all expensive. I need to do alot of work on the front end and I can do the work but the parts are alot. UGH. I have thought about throwing in the towel but can't get myself to do it. My wallet may tell me other wise soon enough.

Which parts are you replacing and why? Where are you looking for the parts?

[Dr.Duct]

Yes, but then I think about all the ass I get thanks to the s and it's all worth it. Don't forget the ass my friend. Stay strong.

lol nothing like shallow whores, just what i like. ha

[andru1313]

Which parts are you replacing and why? Where are you looking for the parts?

So Far it has been typical BS. Just did the tie rod ends. 45 a side. Not bad. They are the upgarded ones.

but I am still having front end issues. So I think I need new bushings in my upper control arms or just replace all control arms. Mind you my car has 60k on the odometer. If the control arms do not solve my issue then its wheel bearings and if not wheel bearings then steering rack. Also need to replace the pre cat 02 sensors. Haven't found them cheaper than 110 per side.

[ThirdStrike]

Don't you guys just sometimes feel like throwing in the towel!??

hell no
dont be afraid to

[Jsmooth65]

So Far it has been typical BS. Just did the tie rod ends. 45 a side. Not bad. They are the upgarded ones.

but I am still having front end issues. So I think I need new bushings in my upper control arms or just replace all control arms. Mind you my car has 60k on the odometer. If the control arms do not solve my issue then its wheel bearings and if not wheel bearings then steering rack. Also need to replace the pre cat 02 sensors. Haven't found them cheaper than 110 per side.

The best you're going to do on the precat o2's are VAST which are 215 for the pair. You COULD do the old splice job, but I'm not sure its worth the extra effort for the savings.

What kind of front end issues are you having? Strange noises? Vibrations?

[andru1313]

.
What kind of front end issues are you having? Strange noises? Vibrations?

Wobble in the steering wheel and vibration. It is bad over bumps. also on highway at higher speeds. I do hear a bit of a rattle when i hit a bump when the windows are down.

I have replaced the tie rod ends and I was told that the upper control arms bushings were worn. When i turn my steering wheel when it is warm out is does squeek a bit. So I am just lost at this point.

[sCeRaXn]

The best you're going to do on the precat o2's are VAST which are 215 for the pair. You COULD do the old splice job, but I'm not sure its worth the extra effort for the savings.

I still dont understand why people think wiring an 02 sensor is hard. Trust me...its definitely worth the extra savings. You can find an 02 that has the EXACT same pn as stock(except for the last two numbers which designate the pigtail) at certain parts stores and splice it in 5 minutes(not including removing the 02). I went to 3 parts stores before i found the right pn and the total was $48. To me, saving $60-75 is worth splicing 4 wires...especially since the wires match up perfectly with the stock colors.

[my_01_S4]

Obviously don't boost and don't drive like that for a long time because you're sucking in unfiltered air. But at least you wont get stranded.

IIRC Max boost occurs at 2500 rpm so not boosting is almost impossible.

But that said, I'd try to keep it between 1000-2000 rpm if you have to try to avoid boost.

[galvan11]

I appreciate all the suggestions and comments but I'll find out tomorrow what is wrong with the car.

Thanks dr jekyll for the maf unplugging suggestion and would of loved to know that before having my car towed to the dealer. My audi certified warranty is up next month and ill be having to learn how to do all the work myself from now on.

I honestly thinks its one of my coils or power output stage. Ill find out tomorrow and let you guys know.

[Dr. Jekyll]

IIRC Max boost occurs at 2500 rpm so not boosting is almost impossible.

But that said, I'd try to keep it between 1000-2000 rpm if you have to try to avoid boost.

Boost is load dependant. So if you're light on the go-pedal you can pretty much stay out of boost 'till redline.

[Dr.Duct]

cars are never worth the money you put in them..

your not paying for the parts and the power.. your paying for the rush and the kick you get out of it.. Its very much like drugs or watever else gets people off. it really can be addicting..

I giggle and and get goose bumps after a good little run, or a ral spirited drive down a windy back road at night, and to me that makes it all worth it.

[Dr.Duct]

Sounds like an intercooler hose or something to me too. Just clean up the hose and pipe with some brake cleaner and spray some hairspray on it before you put the hose back on an clamp it. The hairspray will act like a lubricant, making it easier to put the hose back on, but when it dries it's very tacky and keeps the hose from popping off again.

If you have a major boost leak like that again, instead of being stranded just unplug your MAF. You'll still be able to drive your car, without it dying. Obviously don't boost and don't drive like that for a long time because you're sucking in unfiltered air. But at least you wont get stranded.

2nd to this..

intercooler hose coming off, generally gives a little pop noise.. kind of like a compressed air pop (ding!) lol. like if you slowly pop a zip lock bag full of air.

hairspray is truly awesome, and it applies to anything rubber.. commonly used for dirt bike grips.. Just have fun getting the bastards un done afterwards.

[AudiSport12]

I might be getting into a S4 from my A4 so talk about more $$ but it'll all be worth it. Definatly don't throw in the towel.

Wow, I didn't know about the hairspray trick. My FMIC piping popped off twice today. I'll definatly try that if it pops again... Scary feeling when you pull out into traffic under full boost and POOOWW (or PSSSHHH, if you prefer) and the car fricken stalls.

[Dr.Duct]

I might be getting into a S4 from my A4 so talk about more $$ but it'll all be worth it. Definatly don't throw in the towel.

Wow, I didn't know about the hairspray trick. My FMIC piping popped off twice today. I'll definatly try that if it pops again... Scary feeling when you pull out into traffic under full boost and POOOWW (or PSSSHHH, if you prefer) and the car fricken stalls.

lol yes it is.. dont plan on getting it off with ease when you go with hairspray though ha

[dc878mmm]

All sorts of shit happened to me when I got my S4 in the beginning. If you just got your not too long ago, just stick with it. You'll have to throw some cash into it but it'll be cool for a while. Then you're gonna wanna get a stg 3. At that point, instead of getting ass, it's the kicking ass which keeps you in this neverending money pit.

[Dr.Duct]

if it makes you feel better.. i bought my car on may5th 2005. On may 11th i had to take it in for a CEL.. piced it up same day, and had to take it back the next day for CEL, and had to have the o2 sensors replaced.. on my 28th I took it in for a "grind", that was the synchros.. picked the car up june 6th, an on july 4th, blew the rear end launching it.. The corssmember broke, dropping the whole rear end.. I didnt get the car back until around january because I was young and broke, and they wouldnt cover it under warranty..

IF you are curious about the dates.. Im ready from the service records in front of me.. lol

After getting my car back in jan., I wrecked around the end of May, and just got it back a few months ago (2years later). Think im joking about any of this?? search the forums. lol

[my_01_S4]

To the OP. Glad to read that you're still under warranty. I know I'd have more peace of mind if I were.

Boost is load dependant. So if you're light on the go-pedal you can pretty much stay out of boost 'till redline.

Now that I think about it, I recall reading that the turbo's vanes are adjustable by the ECU to control boost amount is that right?

I hear the turbo's spin up even when driving conservatively. You're saying that so long as I'm driving 'gingerly' I'll stay out of boost because the vanes will be at a minimum angle? I can see that.

I was a little confused I guess because I had been told buy a knowledgeable S4 owner (modifies & tracks both his B4 & B5 S4's)... to increase the life of a turbo you should make sure the engine oil is at operating temp before loading them up.

He suggested staying below 2k RPM until the oil temp gauge starts to move. Once its moving, the oil is at the minimum operating temp and you can start driving aggressively.

From your explanation I can now see now how both statements can be true.

Thanks!

[Dr. Jekyll]

To the OP. Glad to read that you're still under warranty. I know I'd have more peace of mind if I were.



Now that I think about it, I recall reading that the turbo's vanes are adjustable by the ECU to control boost amount is that right?

I hear the turbo's spin up even when driving conservatively. You're saying that so long as I'm driving 'gingerly' I'll stay out of boost because the vanes will be at a minimum angle? I can see that.

I was a little confused I guess because I had been told buy a knowledgeable S4 owner (modifies & tracks both his B4 & B5 S4's)... to increase the life of a turbo you should make sure the engine oil is at operating temp before loading them up.

He suggested staying below 2k RPM until the oil temp gauge starts to move. Once its moving, the oil is at the minimum operating temp and you can start driving aggressively.

From your explanation I can now see now how both statements can be true.

Thanks!

You're thinking a bit too hard about this, haha. Only the new 997 Porsche Turbos (and I think some deisel trucks) have variable vane technology. So it has nothing to do with that.

Yes, as long as the engine is on, the turbos are always spinning. BUT the turbos are not boosting. The engine is sucking in air (so it's in vaccum). When the turbos start compressing air, that's when they are boosting. But in order to compress the air, there needs to be a significant amount of exhaust gas to spin the turbo PLUS signals from the ECU, requesting boost which then controls the turbo's wastegate. Inorder for this to happen there needs to be load on the engine (meaning a heavier right foot).

Obviously I'm simplifying things a lot here. But if you're light on the pedal, you can rev to redline without getting into boost. Get a boost gauge (with vaccum) and you'll see what I mean.

I'm sure your Audi friend was just telling you to stay below 2k rpm for simplicity. If you're not revving your engine, it's easier to stay out of boost. Not to mention when the engine and oil is cold, you shouldn't be revving the engine too much anyway.

[galvan11]

wow seems like I learned several new things from this thread.

Called the dealer and it came out to be a bad MAF sensor. So if this ever happens again, to avoid being stranded, I will just unplug the maf and avoid boost.

Wish I had known this as I had planned a nice dinner that day with the gf and it went all down the drain because of the s4's antics!.From now on, its the passat for the weekends!

[Mwall]

lol yes it is.. dont plan on getting it off with ease when you go with hairspray though ha

Pry a little and use water. I had lots of practice with my old bike grips.