Started transmission removal for clutch install...have a few ?'s

[sCeRaXn]

My clutch went out about a week ago, and i finally got around to working on it. I moved it to the back yard and put it back on jack stands(yes, im doing this in the dirt lol). First of all...holy shit these cars have insane starters. I put it in first while the car was off, and when i turned the key the car started moving...just from the amount of tq the starter put out. That doesnt really have anything to do with this, i just thought it was pretty wild. Anyway, within an hour i had the car on jackstands, the exhaust off, the y pipe and all plastics off, air box out(finishing my darintake), axle shields off, heat shilds on the dp's loose, and 3 of the 4 02's out. This is where i ran into my first problem. The pre cat 02 on bank 2 wont come out because the wires run under the shifter stabilizer bar that goes over the selector shaft. Neither the sensor or the plug will fit between the bar and trans...so how do i get this out? Am i gonna have to do it after i drop the trans?

Two hours later, i had both dp's out and marked for cutting(doing pigges). It went alot easier than most people make it out to be, the only problems i ran into were the dp to turbo nuts that seemed to be welded on, and the heatshields that acted mroe like razor blades. Every time i stuck my hand in there i got a new cut lol. It wouldve been ALOT easier, and done in an hour, if i had a 12mm tri-square socket to get the axles out. This brings up my second question...where did you guys get this socket? Ive checked napa, auto zone, advance, o'reillys, northern tool, and sears with no luck. Sears said they could order it and itll be here in 3-5 days, but id really like to get the trans out tomorrow. Oh yea, my friend told me that the axle bolts were tty(torque to yeld, one time use)...is this true? If so, where can i get some new ones at? I find this sorta odd because most bolts that are tq'd that high arent tty except ones that are exposed to big temperature changes.

Last question...when i took out the dp's i left the heatshields in the car. Whats the easiest way to get them back in? Should i just try and hold the heatshields in place while maneuvering the dp's back up there, or would it be best to take them out and try to put them on the dp and install them both at the same time? Ill probably end up taking the trans mounts off to get them back in...in fact i wish i wouldve done that to get them out. Atleast on the drivers side...that one was a bitch lol.

Thanks for all the help.

[archimense]

For 12 point triple squares...
www.metalnerd.com
www.ecstuning.com

[sCeRaXn]

Thanks for the links. Are the axle bolts 12mm triple squares?

[The_Jerbel]

This is where i ran into my first problem. The pre cat 02 on bank 2 wont come out because the wires run under the shifter stabilizer bar that goes over the selector shaft. Neither the sensor or the plug will fit between the bar and trans...so how do i get this out? Am i gonna have to do it after i drop the trans?

You don't need to take the O2 sensors out of the dp's to drop the trans. Just unplug the O2 connectors, detach the shifter linkage rods, and you should be able to get the connectors out and drop the dp's with sensors still attached.

Oh yea, my friend told me that the axle bolts were tty(torque to yeld, one time use)...is this true? If so, where can i get some new ones at? I find this sorta odd because most bolts that are tq'd that high arent tty except ones that are exposed to big temperature changes.

The axle to tranny bolts are 10mm triple square bolts from the factory, and most aftermarket bolts are 12mm. They are re-usable. The axle to hub bolts are 27mm stretch bolts that are one-time use. You can get more from ECS tuning or the dealer. Take your pick.

Last question...when i took out the dp's i left the heatshields in the car. Whats the easiest way to get them back in? Should i just try and hold the heatshields in place while maneuvering the dp's back up there, or would it be best to take them out and try to put them on the dp and install them both at the same time? Ill probably end up taking the trans mounts off to get them back in...in fact i wish i wouldve done that to get them out. Atleast on the drivers side...that one was a bitch lol.

Thanks for all the help.

Take the heat shields, the tranny mounts with supports, and the axles out to get the dp's back in (put the dp's back in before the other stuff).

[sCeRaXn]

Thanks for all the info man. Once again, The Jerbel comes to the rescue lol.

BTW-Ill have that money out to you as soon as i get my check from the stealership.

[S4Dean]

You don't need to take the O2 sensors out of the dp's to drop the trans. Just unplug the O2 connectors, detach the shifter linkage rods, and you should be able to get the connectors out and drop the dp's with sensors still attached.


The axle to tranny bolts are 10mm triple square bolts from the factory, and most aftermarket bolts are 12mm. They are re-usable. The axle to hub bolts are 27mm stretch bolts that are one-time use. You can get more from ECS tuning or the dealer. Take your pick.

Take the heat shields, the tranny mounts with supports, and the axles out to get the dp's back in (put the dp's back in before the other stuff).

You meant 17mm for the axle/hub stretch bolt, right Jordan? I just want to clarify for the guy. You need a hex bit socket for that.

[The_Jerbel]

Thanks for all the info man. Once again, The Jerbel comes to the rescue lol.

BTW-Ill have that money out to you as soon as i get my check from the stealership.

Cool man, sounds good!

[The_Jerbel]

You meant 17mm for the axle/hub stretch bolt, right Jordan? I just want to clarify for the guy. You need a hex bit socket for that.

I always assume that the pinch bolt has been replaced before, but you're right, I really shouldn't. If the axle-hub stretch bolt is factory original, it'll be a 17mm allen head (female hex), and you'll need a large allen socket. If it's aftermarket or if it's ever been replaced, it'll be a standard 27mm hex bolt.

[S4Dean]

I always assume that the pinch bolt has been replaced before, but you're right, I really shouldn't. If the axle-hub stretch bolt is factory original, it'll be a 17mm allen head (female hex), and you'll need a large allen socket. If it's aftermarket or if it's ever been replaced, it'll be a standard 27mm hex bolt.

Ah, thanks for clarifying.

[DefiantS4]

I was able to get a set of triple square bits at O'reilly a few years ago. Ironic because my roommate at the time who worked there swore they didn't carry them. If you absolutely have to get them off now, vice grips should do the trick. Just have the bit in time for reinstallation so you can torque the bolts properly.

[sCeRaXn]

Well i was looking and i think i can get the trans out without completely removing the axle. It looks like i can just unbolt it from the trans and move it out of the way. Ive got nothing but time, so ill try it and if i fail ill just take out the whole axle.

I couldnt find any tri square sockets yesterday, so the trans is still in the car. I ordered one from Metalnerd(thanks again archimense) so hopefully i can get it out next weekend. I did, however, do my piggies yesterday. It was SOOO much easier than people make it out to be. I cut them open and took out the catalyst with an air chisel. I drilled out the center of it and used the air chisel to break the catalyst free from the piping. It folded up and basically fell out all in one piece. I welded them back together, checked for leaks(none) and painted the welded area with 1500deg ceramic paint and "baked" it with a torch to seal it up good. All together id say i have about 3 1/2 hours into it(including removing the dp's), and it wouldve been much less if i couldve gotten the axles out of the way. I dont understand why people talk about it taking days to get the dp's out...its really a straight forward process.