hey hardcore tech. people

[teanza]

n e chance u can help me out on this thread? :(

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209163

thanx!

~tina~

[BONFIRE074]

hardcore tech people, is that what theyre called these days? :D

[teanza]

haha, yeah! + wanted 2 grab attention! ;)

~tina~

[djwimbo]

Have you regained spark? If you have an ohm spec for your crank position sensor then it's not a Hall Effect, you don't really need a Oscilloscope to verify normal operation then.
If you have a Digital MultiMeter you can do a pinout test at the coilpack/s to see if they're getting the correct power, ground, etc. at that connector. The coils will be fed a digital signal(square wave, on/off) to fire the ignition coils. To verify the digital signal you will need an oscilloscope.
I'm not 100% sure if the ignition control module on a 90 is under the coils or in the PCM. So I couldn't tell ya if there's supposed to be a analog signal or a digital signal to the coils. Easy way to tell, on a coil or coils, there will be a primary and a secondary side. The secondary has the plug wire/s off of it, and the primary has smaller 16-22 gauge wires at the connector. If the Primary conenctor has more than 3 wires in it there's a good chance it has the ignition control module in it.
- I just checked ECS, your coil is $260. Leads me to believe that it has the module in it. That would be the first place I'd be looking.

Now would be a good time to update your secondary ignition. New plugs, wires and possibly that coil. If you haven't already, you'll foul your spark plugs with extended cranking. NTM change your oil. You don't want all that fuel in your oil, it will kill your bearings in a heartbeat, if you let it run like that.

[teanza]

thanx a lot dj.

i don't know how 2 do a pinout test :( i found a part for both the coil and the ignition mod., so maybe they are separated.

i hope i am able 2 locate the right points to check, and hope u can tell me how 2 check it w/the meter lol.

sorry, but thanx!

btw, plugs/wires/oil r new, but will change the plugs/oil again after all of this, as the plugs are looking good and lean.

~tina~

[teanza]

found out how 2 check for injector pulse w/test light. when connected 2 ground, and cranking, showed power 2 injectors.

test light connected 2 positive battery side, no power showed/no light.

all while cranking. AH!

~tina~

[djwimbo]

Doing a pinout test is no more difficult than bench testing with an ohmmeter. If you can check your crank pos. sensor, you can do a pinout. Assuming you have a digital multimeter, never use an analog with computer controlled circuits.

I'm really hoping you have a wiring diagram. You can do this a number of ways, the easier is to remove the connector from the primary side of the ignition and check your inputs/outputs at the connector.
Note: with the primary side of the ignition diasbled, I would also disable the fuel injectors if you're going to do any tests while cranking.
Using the wiring diagram you should be able to figure out which wire are power, ground, crank position sensor feed, and whatever else is in that connector. Do this in the DC Volts scale (0-20V if it's not autoranging). Doing so in the ammeter or ohmeter scale will damage the PCM or your multimeter.
Check the voltage at the connector with your pos. lead at the connector and the neg. lead on the neg term of the battery.
You can check the ground side of the circuit, as long as it doesn't go through the PCM, on the ohm scale from the connector to a Body ground. If you disconnect the battery's negative term. you can also check the continuity of the wires from point A to point B.
For example, from the crank position sensor connector to the ICM or PCM's connector/pin that correlates. This would be checking for high resistance in the wire/s or even a break in the wire.

If you have all the correct inputs to a part, and correct outputs but the part itself doesn't work. The part itself has failed.

The pinout test can also be done with the connector still attached to the said part. This would be done with the battery still connected, just be more careful not to get the wrong wires.

[djwimbo]

Your injectors have constant power and the PCM controls the ground side of the circuit and thus the pulsewidth.
With the Key on, engine off the injectors should have 12V at the positive side of their connectors. Be careful testing with a test light, the correct way to do it is with a Noid Light. Test lights don't have enough internal resistance for computer related circuits.

[teanza]

dj u r amazing, and i thank u x10000000. no wiring diagram, but maybe i can DL one from somewhere? don't know where 2 find it. maybe audi can give me 1! i will try 2 get this first, as i don't want to break me or the car further hehe.

@ least i know of 1 though (the crank. pos. sensor). maybe i can follow the rest of the wires in that cluster.

i'll be back.......

~tina~

[teanza]

what about cam positioning sensor? how do i check that?

~tina~

[djwimbo]

a cam pos sensor may or may not be a hall effect(it's probably a hall effect). If it is a hall effect, you need an oscilloscope to ensure the voltage pattern is #1 working and #2 correct. It'll be a 5V circuit, so you can check the input and ground, but not accurately the output.

Good luck on Audi giving you anything, well other than a headache and maybe an empty wallet.
If I can remember I'll try to pull up a diagram at school on Monday, and see if there are any service bulletins for this issue.

[teanza]

wow thanx again! i am just gonna buy that part monday if i can't find n e 1 w/a scope. i checked the TPS 4 fun, 2. everything is fine; this is my last option!

~tina~