APR Stage I+ Questions...

[93akkord]

I've read many, MANY threads on this forum about the I+ upgrade and have a couple questions of my own that I would like to ask, for those who have or have had it.

1. Are the TT225 injector the best to get for this setup?
2. How easy are the injectors to install? Me and my dad have always worked on Japanese cars and haven't really touched a German car that much, is there that big of a difference between the two?
3. I live in Florida. How important is an intercooler for this setup? Is it something I NEED to get? Or can I wait a while and get it down the road?
4. How much of a benefit would I get from upgrading my exhaust with this setup? Is it important to get this upgrade?
5. I've read from a couple of posters on this forum that they get a 'misfiring' cel at high RPMs. Is this still true? When I did my research, these post were made just over a year ago.
6. I've also read some threads about 'fuel issues.' Is this common? (Idle fuel trim, long term fuel trim) And what does it mean? This could greatly sway my decision on whether or not to get this setup.
7. Are there any other things that I need to know about this setup before getting it? Or are there any other items that would be needed to get for this setup?
8. If I get the stock file, will I be able to switch to it with bigger injectors? (Warranty/Dealership reasons)
9. Lastly, from those who've went from I to I+, what was the difference in power felt? Would you say it was worth the upgrade?

The reason I'm asking these questions is because I just got the trial for the stage I a couple of days ago (yes you do get the trial for 6 hour of driving time) and I'm still loving it and I was thinking, for a couple hundred more, I can get an even better setup. But I just wanna make sure I wouldn't run into any problems.

[jrau13]

Read through this and all of these questions have been answered many times.http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=96446

The injectors are very easy to install and should take no more than 10min(max) to do. Look here as well. www.a4mods.com for more DIY's.

[audipotential]

[*]Are the TT225 injector the best to get for this setup? Usually yes.[*]How easy are the injectors to install? Me and my dad have always worked on Japanese cars and haven't really touched a German car that much, is there that big of a difference between the two? Plug and play. It doesnt take ten minutes like everyone says it does but its pretty easy.[*]I live in Florida. How important is an intercooler for this setup? Is it something I NEED to get? Or can I wait a while and get it down the road?
I would get it.[*]How much of a benefit would I get from upgrading my exhaust with this setup? Is it important to get this upgrade?
Its important to upgrade for sure.[*]I've read from a couple of posters on this forum that they get a 'misfiring' cel at high RPMs. Is this still true? When I did my research, these post were made just over a year ago. Dependant on plugs and how old the coils are[*]I've also read some threads about 'fuel issues.' Is this common? (Idle fuel trim, long term fuel trim) And what does it mean? This could greatly sway my decision on whether or not to get this setup. There are no fuel issues[*]Are there any other things that I need to know about this setup before getting it? Or are there any other items that would be needed to get for this setup? Exhaust is important.[*]If I get the stock file, will I be able to switch to it with bigger injectors? (Warranty/Dealership reasons) Its visibly obvious to see a TT Injector. All stock program does is limit 1+ boost to stockish setting.[*]Lastly, from those who've went from I to I+, what was the difference in power felt? Would you say it was worth the upgrade? It was decent

[93akkord]

Thanks guys. That was a great thread...bookmarked! hehe, looks like I am leaning a litter more towards it. I'm going to try and do a little more research until I get the money for it. I guess I could never be too sure lol.

Another question, from that thread you posted, I saw the testpipe upgrade in there. Is this worth it? In Florida we have no emission so I am not really worried about that. But does it void my warranty? How much louder is it?

[jrau13]

I personally don't have one(yet) but it will make it a bit louder and not sure about the warranty. As for the gains they have been debated for years with many opinions. You will notice a quicker turbo spool and some low end torque spikes. Im going to try one in the not so distant future.

[Mikef5000]

My quick answers (alot like above):

1. Are the TT225 injector the best to get for this setup?
Yes

2. How easy are the injectors to install? Me and my dad have always worked on Japanese cars and haven't really touched a German car that much, is there that big of a difference between the two?
Quite easy, 15 minutes. There's a DIY around here somewhere. Install new injector O-rings while your at it.

3. I live in Florida. How important is an intercooler for this setup? Is it something I NEED to get? Or can I wait a while and get it down the road?
You can wait, but it will help!

4. How much of a benefit would I get from upgrading my exhaust with this setup? Is it important to get this upgrade?
See answer to number 3!

5. I've read from a couple of posters on this forum that they get a 'misfiring' cel at high RPMs. Is this still true? When I did my research, these post were made just over a year ago.
Good spark plugs and good coil packs = no such problems.

6. I've also read some threads about 'fuel issues.' Is this common? (Idle fuel trim, long term fuel trim) And what does it mean? This could greatly sway my decision on whether or not to get this setup.
I've never experienced or heard of such a thing.

7. Are there any other things that I need to know about this setup before getting it? Or are there any other items that would be needed to get for this setup?
A Snub mount and a Diverter Valve (Forge 007) are both good investments!

8. If I get the stock file, will I be able to switch to it with bigger injectors? (Warranty/Dealership reasons)
Yes, but it won't be stock, it'll just run similar to stock.

9. Lastly, from those who've went from I to I+, what was the difference in power felt? Would you say it was worth the upgrade?
Sorry, can't help you there.


AudiPotential, why do you say exhaust is needed? I don't want to argue, I just want to if there's a reason. I've been running the 1+ programing on stock exhaust for 2 years now. I know I can get more performance out of it if I upgrade the exhaust, but am I hurting something?

[93akkord]

Oh yeah, a Diverter Valve is a given hehe. I'm really thinking about the snumb mount though. It's kind of annoying how the A4 shifts.

[Mikef5000]

Just remember... if you notice any more vibration than before... it's installed wrong! I've had mine in for years, and the car is smooth as silk.

[festerfm]

today makes 1 week that i've had the apr 1+ and everyone on here is right... simply, you can have a 100% stock car, get the stage 1+ and it will run just fine. and when i say "get 1+" i mean the package which is the ecu flash AND injectors. what injectors you use is up to you... 225hp tt injectors are the best, but others will work. i use siemens 380cc injectors and all i needed was 1/2 inch spacers for the fuel rail since the new injectors are taller. 225tt injectors dont need it.

second, if you think you might get a testpipe at some point in time, apr will give you the cat-delete file for free so you dont get a check engine light. my current setup, altho some will scold it, is as follows. apr stage 1+, siemens 380cc injectors, apr snub, ebay test pipe, cheap cone filter, apr sport catback, full bov, tt225 fender vent mod, column mount boost gauge, b7 rs4 rear sway bar, and short shifter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNL5tDJSKNc

i had stage 1 up until a week ago as that vid is a few months old. the difference i felt between 1 and 1+ is the torque. more torque down low and you can really feel it if you have a car full of people as it pulls just as hard. i didnt have the boost gauge for the stage 1 but the gauge i have has my boost at about 16psi for 1-2 gears, 3-4 gears get to 22psi and 5th spikes at 28 and levels at 23.

like everyone else said, installing the injectors is easy, but if u'r taking u'r car to a shop to have the 1+ done, dont install them until u'r in the parking lot. u'r car wont run right on the trip to the tuning shop. either take u'r tools and install them in the parking lot OR let the shop install them. i had my own injectors so i was charged a half hour for the injectors install and $25 for the ecu flash and my total was $54 for the upgrade.

all of the other upgrades that you mention, will help, but are not needed. if you dont want to break u'r bank, get the chip tuning done first then work on the dv, exhaust, snub, ect... an upgraded diverter valve is highly recommended. will your factory diverter valve handle the extra boost?? it's possible, but not probable. i'd replace it before it replaces itself!!

as for is it worth it?? i believe it was!! i wouldnt go straight for the 1+ file. if you pay the $499 for the stage 1, you can upgrade to the 1+ for just the labor and cost of the injectors, rather than paying a grand out of u'r pocket right off the bat. i'm working on making a video of my audi w/ the 1+ now and when i get it i will post it on this thread!!

[audipotential]

I still think theres something wrong for you to produce those numbers...

today makes 1 week that i've had the apr 1+ and everyone on here is right... simply, you can have a 100% stock car, get the stage 1+ and it will run just fine. and when i say "get 1+" i mean the package which is the ecu flash AND injectors. what injectors you use is up to you... 225hp tt injectors are the best, but others will work. i use siemens 380cc injectors and all i needed was 1/2 inch spacers for the fuel rail since the new injectors are taller. 225tt injectors dont need it.

second, if you think you might get a testpipe at some point in time, apr will give you the cat-delete file for free so you dont get a check engine light. my current setup, altho some will scold it, is as follows. apr stage 1+, siemens 380cc injectors, apr snub, ebay test pipe, cheap cone filter, apr sport catback, full bov, tt225 fender vent mod, column mount boost gauge, b7 rs4 rear sway bar, and short shifter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNL5tDJSKNc

i had stage 1 up until a week ago as that vid is a few months old. the difference i felt between 1 and 1+ is the torque. more torque down low and you can really feel it if you have a car full of people as it pulls just as hard. i didnt have the boost gauge for the stage 1 but the gauge i have has my boost at about 16psi for 1-2 gears, 3-4 gears get to 22psi and 5th spikes at 28 and levels at 23.

like everyone else said, installing the injectors is easy, but if u'r taking u'r car to a shop to have the 1+ done, dont install them until u'r in the parking lot. u'r car wont run right on the trip to the tuning shop. either take u'r tools and install them in the parking lot OR let the shop install them. i had my own injectors so i was charged a half hour for the injectors install and $25 for the ecu flash and my total was $54 for the upgrade.

all of the other upgrades that you mention, will help, but are not needed. if you dont want to break u'r bank, get the chip tuning done first then work on the dv, exhaust, snub, ect... an upgraded diverter valve is highly recommended. will your factory diverter valve handle the extra boost?? it's possible, but not probable. i'd replace it before it replaces itself!!

as for is it worth it?? i believe it was!! i wouldnt go straight for the 1+ file. if you pay the $499 for the stage 1, you can upgrade to the 1+ for just the labor and cost of the injectors, rather than paying a grand out of u'r pocket right off the bat. i'm working on making a video of my audi w/ the 1+ now and when i get it i will post it on this thread!!

[Mikef5000]

Yes, those boost numbers are much higher than all the other ones I've seen. Hopefully just the gauge is off.

How's the ebay test pipe? Any install problems?

[festerfm]

i do think the gauge is off a lil bit, afterall, it was an ebay gauge. numbers seem high, but they're consistant. i might throw some compressed air at it to see exactly how off it is. the test pipe was easy. the one i got came with all new hardware and the gaskets and was like $112 shipped. install was only a couple hours with a lift and a friend.

[Mikef5000]

Good to know! And if I take my car back to the APR dealership that installed the 1+ programing, they can get rid of the CEL?

Will it run properly even though it will have the CEL? I'll have to drive a couple hours to the dealership.

I'll need to do exhaust within the next year I think, and I might as well go all out.

[festerfm]

when i got the stage 1 done, i didnt have the test pipe but i had asked about it and they said that if i wanted, they would just give me the cat delete file for when i did put the test pipe on. so i drove w/ the original cat for a month before i got the testpipe. didnt cost anything extra, just something they did while they were inside the ecu. if you take u'r car back to the place that flashed you just for the cat delete file, i imagine they will charge you, that's why i did it when i was already getting the stage 1.

as for how will it run before u get it shut off?? should run normal but u'll get "not as good" gas mileage as you would if the car had the cat delete file since w/out the cat and getting the code, it goes into, not so much as safe mode, but more less a base fuel trim mode if i'm sayin this right... i guess it's easier to explain as if the o2 sensor is shot and the car doesnt get a signal to kno how it is running, it will go into a base programming mode where it will just give a certain amount of programmed fuel, bla bla bla... long story short, u might get worse gas mileage til u get that light turned off and the cat-delete file in... have fun!!!