S4 or B7 a4 Brakes on an B6 A4 question

[47Ronin]

So

1) To put S4 rotors on an A4 ... what are the benifits?

2) Do you need new carrier + caliper?

3) What makes the most difference in a good set of brakes? the rotors? pads? calipers?

4) Can you swap the b7 rotors for the b6 a4 ones without new carrier calipers?

[47Ronin]

nm I searched so I have answer for #2 but someone answer 1, 3 4

Basically, what rotors can I use on the B6 A4 w/o new caliper / carrier?

And out of these which makes most sense for a stock configuration

1) A4 Adam@SPP Rotors
2) B5 S4 rotor
3) A8 Rotor

[manguyen]

4) Can you swap the b7 rotors for the b6 a4 ones without new carrier calipers?

No, the b7 rotors are larger, however you can go from b7 a4 to b7 s4 without carriers i believe. i seen something from stasis that relocates the calipers so that the s4 rotors would work.

http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDI-A4-B7-to-S4...QQcmdZViewItem

[47Ronin]

Hrm - okay ... well I don't have ridiculous power in my car so I don't need a BBK

BUT

I do like the feel of the B7 A4 braking ... anyhoo - any suggestions are fine

I need new pads and rotors (not that badly) but I can get them anyway -

If you canc omment on the added benefit of upgrading calipers etc - let me know

I'm a noob to this so a good combination be good

[[email protected]]

1) Larger rotor allows for more leverage since the caliper is farther out from the center of the wheel. The larger rotor also has more metal to absorb heat from braking so the braking system won't overheat and fade with repeated use.

2) Yes

3) Pads, Calipers then rotors

4) No. The B7 rotor is too big and too thick to use with an B6 caliper

[47Ronin]

So I shouldn't bother with getting new / upgraded rotors?

I should get newer pads ... then upgrade calipers then rotors?

But if calipers go hand in hand with rotors ... shouldnt I get those 2 together?

Also - anything wrong with keeping stock calipers and upgrading the rotor to adam@spp's rotors and then gettign new pads?

Is that a good setup

[[email protected]]

Upgrading the caliper from the OEM single piston, sliding caliper design to a fixed bridge 4 piston design just allows for better distribution of pressure on the pads which allow for better clamping onto the rotor.

If you don't want to upgrade the caliper then upgrade the pads to a better compound like a Hawk HPS, fluid to RBF600 or Motul 5.1 and stick with flat face rotors. Zimmermans are a quality rotor for the money.

[47Ronin]

Thanks winston

What's your take on adam@spp's rotors? compared to say zimmermans? in terms of performance and cost

I am definitely getting new pads but where do you suggest gettign those calipers // what type of calipers do you suggest

Thanks so much

[47Ronin]

Also isn't sliding better than fixed as fixed has a chance of rusting // clamping onto the rotor with use?

[manguyen]

calipers and carriers can be bought from me. i still have my 2 used set. PM me

[[email protected]]

What's your take on adam@spp's rotors? compared to say zimmermans? in terms of performance and cost

My take is you want as much metal as you can get on the stock size rotors as the OEM braking system is pretty undersized for the weight of our cars. That is why I suggested getting blank, flat faced rotors to use.

I am definitely getting new pads but where do you suggest gettign those calipers // what type of calipers do you suggest

Also isn't sliding better than fixed as fixed has a chance of rusting // clamping onto the rotor with use?

IIRC, the OEM B6, B7A4 and B7S4 are all a single piston, sliding caliper design. This means there is just one piston that is pushing one pad against the rotor and the other side of the caliper slides over with the other pad to clamp down on the other side.

A fixed 4 piston caliper is better as there are 4 pistons set on a fixed caliper that are used to push the pads on either side of the rotor to provide more even pressure onto the rotor.

You just can't mix and match calipers and rotors and hope that everything will work out.

Buy a matched set, OEM or aftermarket BBK, as you don't really want to cheap out on the only system that stops the car.

[47Ronin]

Good call - so where do you suggest I get this set?

Like who has a 4 piston whatever

[[email protected]]

Most entry level BBK setups are 4 piston.

So look at Stoptech and Brembo to see what they offer and then understand what you are getting so you can make an informed decision.

The Stoptech website has some nice technical information on how things work.

[Siggiepop]

you should upgrade your brake lines.... and pads if you can't go BBK

[sandspeed]

Does anyone know if Stasis sells just the Alcon brake rotors seperately from their B7-A4-to-S4 conversion? I'm thinking those and the matching rear upgrade would be nice, plus the bigger rears would pretty much completely stop brake dive. Along with SS lines and my Carbotech Bobcats, aside from a BBK, that would probably be the most aggressive I could get.

[47Ronin]

Do I need a BBK setup tho for an almost stock setup? ...

[[email protected]]

Do I need a BBK setup tho for an almost stock setup? ...

Not really.

Just upgrade your brake fluid, pads and lines and you'll have a nice setup.

[47Ronin]

O okay - but apparently my rotors are messed up - thats why i asked this to beginw ith

should I just get OEM replacement rotors? or get adam @ SPP's shit

I'm thinking Hawk pads and ss lines - what fluid?

[[email protected]]

Get Zimmerman rotors from www.thepartsbin.com

Try a set of Hawk HPS pads and Motul 5.1 brake fluid.

[617 Bones]

Does anyone know if Stasis sells just the Alcon brake rotors seperately from their B7-A4-to-S4 conversion?

I also wonder if Stasis will sell the carrier relocater for the B7A4 to S4 conversion

[47Ronin]

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...294967262+9179

Any comments on the EBC or Brembo rotors on there

Also can I use the 312 x 25 rotors or do i have to use the 288 x 25 ?

Im considering the EBC drilled and slotted as the zimmermans are not slotted?

[[email protected]]

You can only use the 312x25 if you find a set of 3.0 carrier to move the caliper backwards.

You would need the 288x25 rotor. As I said before stick to the flat faced blanks for best performance.

[47Ronin]

Hrm - but i thought slotted was good?

[47Ronin]

And you mean

Zimmermann Rear Brake Disc
2002-2005 Audi A4 Quattro245 X 10mm.
Location: Rear

that? over the zimemrman cross drilled?

Let me know going to buy either the EBC slotted or just the stock zimmerman flat fronts

but if that's the case why buy zimmerman's over just an OEM replacement

[47Ronin]

BTW - winston - i want your car - when you sell let me know

[[email protected]]

Zimmermans are OEM rotors for a lot of cars and are excellent quality.

Do you want front rotors or rear ones? It is quite confusing when you post up random information like that.

If you want the slots get them, if you want the x-drilled look then get those instead.

I've suggested the blanks flat faced ones are the best option as you want as much metal as you can get in the rotor to help with heat dissipation.

[47Ronin]

Right - i'm just wondering because I read that slotted helps better with heat?

I'm replacing all 4 rotors

[A4TL]

check this out. I don't track my car. I don't plan to. I'd have to remove the baby seat and well - i don't have time to. but I do like to stop when i'm doing 85 on the freeway or when an a-hole cuts me off.

B7 A4 320x30mm brake kit used - everything except rotors and pads (new only on those pads/rotors please). $200 car-part.com

mintex red box pads - factory oem dust :( but no squeal never nada none . I hate squeal. Pads are always : Bite, Dust, Squeal - pick 2. I can almost guarantee everyone has a different definition of squeal. Mine is NO SQUEAL never under any conditions and not even a PEEP. others might say no "schoolbus stop" is squeal. To me squeal is ghetto but i would understand performance oriented people may find this acceptable now and then. It is not for me,never.

Zimmerman blank rotors - slotted i do not see the use in georgia for slotted. You are reducing swept area for pad contact and these are big mofo rotors and calipers so they can dissipate alot of heat.

SS brake lines - DOT only; it seemed to help a teensy bit and well at 100K miles you gotta start replacing parts before they break.

Result: OEM stopping - Feels great and definitely more confident but no real noticeable change until you stand on it then the brakes just keep stopping and stopping more and more. I've had brakes on other cars which were not proportinate. They'd literally throw your face into the windshield when you first drove such (SHO) car. awesome but sketchy for people borrowing your car.

$500 bones installed roughly maybe a few bucks more with the mandatory brake flush that I do every 2/24K.

You will be disappointed that it doesn't wow you at first. Esp before bed-in. But you will feel it when you stand on the brakes in a situation and they just keep stopping you.

that is my solution and it probably sacrifices some performance and dusts but it is dead silent. always. no maintenance required afterwards or adjustments. Just like i wanted it.

[47Ronin]

hrm very nice - thanks :D but I can't find the brake kit

[cuco33]

some good info here

[dougyfresh]

Like Winston and a few others have said. For a stock-like drivetrain OEM brakes are sufficient. Whether you just upgrade your rotors, pads and fluid on your B6 A4 system or you put some B7 A4 brakes on. It'll all work well.

I have Mintex Red-Box pads and do not get any noise from them. They dust like any other (like OEM) but no noise. I also have B5 S4 front brakes which are great for street driving with my set-up. I put these on since they cost me $300 after rotor resurfacing and new pads. Still using OEM rubber lines.

[chrislane31]

I have a B7 A4 and just put the B7 S4 brakes on with new pads and rotors and it all feel wonderful.