ok guys im scared 0w-30 oil

[jsocar1986]

ok guys i had my brother do me the favor and get my oil changed and he went and had the shop put mobil 1 0w30 fully synthetic as opposed to mobil 1 0w40 fully synthetic how will this hurt my motor? should i be worried and change it again tomorrow and spend another 60 bucks? please let me know as now i dont want to drive my car because i think the viscocity isnt enough and ill eff something up internally. plus audi doesnt recommend anything under xw-40 thanks in advance!

[jsocar1986]

i gotta bump this as its a LARGE concern to me. im scared for the lubrication of my turbo.

[marcink99]

i dont know. But since you live in fl i would drive to the dealer a pay i think its $30 and have your oil changed.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1581/site_id/1

[manhertm]

Thats a northern climate weight oil. It just means its thinner when cold. For example 10w-30 means the viscosity is 10w when cold and 30w at operating temp. It won't hurt your engine since Audi recommendation lays in the operating weight, 40 which isn't that far off.. I don't even know why that kind of oil would be used in Florida, but I would just get another oil change to be on the safe side(it might have less protection for your moving metal parts on cold engine) Just my 2 cents.

[gsxtasee]

you're fine with 0-30 oil. I would consider changing it if you lived in NY or MT or something like that and it's cold and all but you dont and unless you're going to be driving in really harsh conditions, and beating on your car then you will be 100% fine. just like if you put in 0-50 you'd still be fine. I wouldn't go 0-20 but 0-30 is perfectly o.k.

[AudiWxGuy]

i dont know. But since you live in fl i would drive to the dealer a pay i think its $30 and have your oil changed.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1581/site_id/1

Try $100

[jsocar1986]

alright i went and bought some 10w-50 (about $46 and spent $24 to get it changed at midas. so figure about $70 a day for oil for two days. damn that little kid.) i know that isnt approved either, but i drive like an ass and since i like to rev high at times i figured i could use the extra heat and wear protection. thanks again

[pakratt99]

Just so your aware, running a higher weight oil has zero correlation to providing better heat or wear protection. The base number (0 in your case) is a relative viscosity on startup and the (30 or 40 or 50) depending on what your talking about in this thread is a relative viscosity when the engine oil is warm. Viscosity only has to deal with the relative thickness of the oil when it is at a certain temperature and does not in any way effect its lubrication properties. These lubrication properties really have to deal with the base stock and finishing properties that are added when the oil itself is created.

[jsocar1986]

Just so your aware, running a higher weight oil has zero correlation to providing better heat or wear protection. The base number (0 in your case) is a relative viscosity on startup and the (30 or 40 or 50) depending on what your talking about in this thread is a relative viscosity when the engine oil is warm. Viscosity only has to deal with the relative thickness of the oil when it is at a certain temperature and does not in any way effect its lubrication properties. These lubrication properties really have to deal with the base stock and finishing properties that are added when the oil itself is created.

i understand what you're saying above in bold and agree. based on what ive researched in the past few days thats true. but now, you're telling me then that thicker oils are only made for oil burners and leaking seals? from what ive read the statement that only the additives give it its lubrication properties i believe is true and false. If i were to put xw-20 with heat and wear it would continue to break down and thin out some more. From my understanding when it thins out it cools less(absorbs less heat from metals) and allows for more wear due to its inefficient cooling potential as opposed to a xw-50. i think it makes sense. look at a forging machine that used bits to cut. the oil it used is VERY thick due to the high amounts of hear caused by friction. and also to lube the bit so it doesn't wear as quickly. remember i may be partly wrong in anything above as ive just begun to research this as ive always taken manufacturers specs into consideration but Ive noticed we take oil for granted as "just oil" and am looking for better ways of improving the life of my auto while enjoying its full potential from time to time.

heres a link to mobil1 15w-50 which is what I'm using now.
since i live in Miami its LOTS of stop and go HOT, HUMID, and DIRTY therefore based on my driving style I decided to go with this. and even its rated for 15k miles ill be changing it every 4k.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ce_15W-50.aspx
you may click on the link "mobil 1 extended performance data sheet" on that page to view its stats and properties on a more detailed note.

If anyone sees what ive said as incorrect please respond as i like to learn. Thanks!

[KMHPaladin]

0w-30 oil will pretty much grenade your engine even having been in there just for a couple days. Unfortunate but it's the price we pay with the high pressures created by the FSI system. I really wouldn't feel safe without replacing the head gasket and removing the oil pan to flush it out as thoroughly as possible.

[gdawg'05a4]

GC (German Castrol) 0w-30 has VW 502 00, 503 01 and 505 00 cert and IIRC, GC is factory fill. Not sure about M1 0w-30 but GC 0w-30 is fine.

The only M1 0w-30 I've found is this, looks to be new?
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-30.aspx

The only M1 30 weight I know of prior to seeing this is their 5w-30.

[pakratt99]

First off I work for a major oil company, and its none of the ones listed here so there is no favoritism and I'm not prefacing my comments in one direction or another. But the idea that a 50 weight oil provides better protection than a 20 weight oil and only taking into consideration viscosity is purely wrong. But along with this, if you were to put a 50 weight oil in an engine which was designed for 20 weight, it would defiantly loose some of its lubricating properties.

Every engine is designed with a specific set of tolerances between moving parts, the manufacturer sets these tolerances in a range which favors a viscosity area which they desire. If you look at something like an NHRA top fuel car, most run 90 weight straight oil, the reason for this isn't due to it having some magically better lubricating properties then a lighter weight oil, its due to the fact that they run very loose tolerances in there engines to facilitate things like quick component removal and outrageous boost pressures.

VAG when they designed our 2.0t motors designed them to run with a specific oil viscosity rating in mind. If you vary greatly from this viscosity area you will create internal conditions which might cause lubrication to suffer. The reason that I would worry more with the 10-50 oil you have now placed in your engine is that it is going to be considerably thicker (due to the 50w at hot temperatures) than the VAG accepted norm for your engine. This may cause it to have less ability to protect your engine.

[79%N1]

why is no one really mentioning the oil that is suggested in the manual? 5w-40?? Autozone and napa carries it around here and it'll only cost you $33.?? for 5 quarts.... Instead of arguing viscosities and what the freakin numbers mean why not just use what is specified in the Audi owners manual????

[79%N1]

oh and thats Castrol Syntec fully synthetic by the way. I noticed when i had an 08 a4 as a loaner while mine was in for service that the oil cap actually has a castrol logo burned into it from the facroty. the castrol bottle of 5w-40 actually says its vw 502 compliant...

[jsocar1986]

i was actually told by my buddies that 15w50 is ok as i had bought motul from them before. and i could have chosen 5w40 they said that because of the very hot conditions, humidity and stop and go traffic not to mention my bad habits it should be ok they run it in their cars and its not because they were trying to sell me but because they have been in racing all their lives plus knowledge about all this. so if this is wrong let me know. but how muck harm could i possibly do using the 50w as opposed to 40w? with wear the 40w's properties should deminish and so will the 50w's. please explain.

[slappypants]

just drive the damn car!

[exorcet]

i was actually told by my buddies that 15w50 is ok as i had bought motul from them before. and i could have chosen 5w40 they said that because of the very hot conditions, humidity and stop and go traffic not to mention my bad habits it should be ok they run it in their cars and its not because they were trying to sell me but because they have been in racing all their lives plus knowledge about all this. so if this is wrong let me know. but how muck harm could i possibly do using the 50w as opposed to 40w? with wear the 40w's properties should deminish and so will the 50w's. please explain.

I just think it's odd you were so concerned that 0w-30 didn't meet the factory spec, then you went and put in ANOTHER oil (15w50) that doesn't meet the factory spec. Just doesn't make any sense to me...

You were better off with the 0w-30. It would have been just fine for the short period of time it was in there. the 50w probably won't do any damage, but it's further away from the factory spec than the 30w -- just not ideal.

[pakratt99]

Actually what I have been trying to imply all along is to used the audi factory recommended oil of 5w-40. As long as your running that and its vw 502 compliant (most are) your going to be fine. Unless your running a built motor or in a super cold climate your stupid to run anything else.

P.S. Please forgive me for trying to bring any semblance of knowledge to the forums,