DIY AMB Valve Cover Gasket B6

[audipotential]

Time Required: Aprox 1-1.5 Hr
Difficulty-4 out of 10

Youre going to need a
Socket wrench set
A long 10mm socket ( the ones that are like 1 inch long)
Flat head screw driver
Sealant (Try and find one called Reinzosil. It is specifically Audi Approoved)
screw clips to replace one time use clips
Gaskets (DUH)
Beer
Allen bits (Keys and driver bits help too but you can just use the keys)
Zip ties

I have an issue with people saying that this is just a couple nuts and thats it. ITS NOT, so this is why I put this together
This isnt HARD, you just need to be prepared. I have all the short cuts here though

Start off by taking off the audi engine cover. If you dont know how to do this, consider bringing your car to a professional

Now for reference, this is all the points where there are nuts for the valve cover (NOT the rails)

This is a pic of the sections where there are allen bolts and bolts on the rails that need to be removed. Also a brief section to show where the pipes disconnect


Now Disconnect the connection to the coil packs but leave the packs in. You dont want junk flying into the spark area. Also, disconnect the ground ontop of the valve cover while youre there. Cut the zip ties holding the coil cables to the Valve cover gasket and theres one near the PCV. Remove your snorkel for more room to move (two screws on the front of the car)

Now what you wanna do is start unscrewing all the points where I put numbers. Some are easy some are hard to get to. The one that was hardest in my opinion was actuallyt number 5 in the second pic. I didnt bother putting it back out of fear of dropping it.
DONT DROP ANY OF THE SCREWS OR NUTS. ITS VERY EASY TO DO.

Now this is the part where people had trouble. I hate those one time use clips and someone told me theyre not one time use clips but anyway I bought the new clips with the screws because theyre MUCH easier to deal with. Youll see in this pic its already replaced. If you see the color dots and match the color, youll see thats where I disconnected everything. Use my disconnection spots.
If you have trouble, use the flat head and gently push the hoses off. For the purple dot, DONT disconnect it from the bottom of the 90Deg bend. Do it from the top. Its hard to get leverage to yank it off. If you do it from the top you can use the flat head to pry a bit and it should yank with a bit of force .Pull everything to the side so that when you are ready to yank the VC off, everythings clear.


Now the PCV Section. Only two things you need to do. The red one needs to come off and the purple one. the bigger one is just a simple clamp that needs to be held open (ie with a wrench or get someone to hold the wrench) and then you just tug back on it.

Now, Take the coil packs out and put them in a safe place. You should be able to pull the Valve cover off. You might need to pry with the flat head driver a touch but it should not require much. If its not coming off, check out the pcv section. that fat hose gets in the way.
Remember. Youre lifting straight up. Dont lift from one side.

Now, clean off the inside of your VC once its off. Inspect your car for sludge. Take the old gaskets off (Just peel them off)
Clean the areas if theres any crap where the gasket sits. These are the areas I recommend for sealer. Theres a couple extra spots but I found it just helped me in the end. Use a sealer rated for atleast 300 degrees.

Put the gaskets in. Then just lift the spots where you need sealant and put it down. When you put the Valve cover back on,be CAREFUL that the gasket does not fall off where its supposed to sit. I cant stress this enough. So put the valve cover back on and inspect all around to make sure that the gasket is still where its supposed to be. Good. While youre putting the Valve cover on, I found it easier to slide on the fat PVC line onto the VC while putting it down onto the gasket. Now put the main VC nuts on finger tight all around. Then slowly start tightening a little at a time for each bolt, Make sure the gasket is still good to go. Eventually itll be firmly on.
On rectagular objects the proper way to torque down is to start in the middle alternating back and forth to the outer side to prevent bowing but just do it a little at a time basically
Then from there, just reconnect everything and use the pretty new clamps you got to make the job super clean. Zip tie the coilpack wires back up and youre good to go!

Wait about 3 hours before turning on the car so that the sealer works properly.

[pondside36]

Sweet.. I was planning on doing this in the near future. What size clamps did you use if you remember off the top of your head?

[younga4]

Rock n Roll
Many Thanks and much appreciated

c.o.a.l.e.s.c.e.

[audipotential]

Sweet.. I was planning on doing this in the near future. What size clamps did you use if you remember off the top of your head?

Hang on i'll go check for you.

[audipotential]

I cant find the extra ones I got but I just guessed really when I went to the hardware store.

If you take a look at the spots before you go in you shouldnt have trouble. Grab the tiny ones that are about the size of the top your pinky in thickness and grab the ones that are about an inch or so

[pondside36]

Awesome.. thanks again.. nice write up!

[AudiA4_20T]

you dont need to undo those hoses, you can just use a 5mm hex socket and take them off the VC

[audipotential]

you dont need to undo those hoses, you can just use a 5mm hex socket and take them off the VC

Its not doable. you COULD do it without removing that stuff. But The first time I did it, I did it without removing them and it gets in the way of taking the Valve cover off. You need to bend back the SAI pipe to get the Valve cover off. This is the cleanest way of doing it.

[audipotential]

Also, by me struggling to yank the SAI back while popping the VC on , the gasket bent in and I had to do it all over again.

[audipotential]

This part here....
You have to lift straight up and this part here restricts that. You have to push the pipe back which requires a shit load of force. Its a PITA.

[audipotential]

Bump for a sticky request

[Audijay02]

what's the torque on the bolts? also is there a sequence on tightening the bolts.

[audipotential]

what's the torque on the bolts? also is there a sequence on tightening the bolts.

I think its about 10 pounds or so.
just go all around finger tight, then tighten all around a couple pounds at a time so that its even all around otherwise you might get a buldge

[AudiA4Turbo22]

how come ur head is blue?? photoshop??

[pondside36]

I think its about 10 pounds or so.
just go all around finger tight, then tighten all around a couple pounds at a time so that its even all around otherwise you might get a buldge

To help clarify..on rectagular objects the proper way to torque down is to start in the middle alternating back and forth to the outer side to prevent bowing...

[dougyfresh]

how come ur head is blue?? photoshop??

Its called paint.

[jrau13]

Nice write up

[gotboost]

This is great, gonna do mine soon....

Were is the best place to get the gasket, i called the stealership and they and lik $46 for it.

[pondside36]

ECS is cheaper IIRC...

[dougyfresh]

$30
http://blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF21005-1

[n7plus1]

This part here....
You have to lift straight up and this part here restricts that. You have to push the pipe back which requires a shit load of force. Its a PITA.

F*** THAT PIECE!

whered you order your gasket from? Mine was a bitch to put on b/c it was all twisted around and shit in the packaging.

[n7plus1]

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=1306

[gotboost]

and what kind of sealer do u guys use?

[n7plus1]

^i bought this to do the job:
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=2340

but i think i like honda-bond much better

[absolutegtr]

I got the gasket...from I think purems ...it was only $14 though!

[pondside36]

and what kind of sealer do u guys use?

You can get a high Temp sealant at an auto parts place; it just needs to be petroleum compatible (for oil pans, valve cover gaskets and so forth), if it is RTV it is silicone based and will be disolved by the oil.

[chaser]

Installing Cylinder head cover

Note:
First tighten inner nuts for cylinder head cover, then tighten outer nuts in diagonal sequence.
Ensure that top section of toothed belt guard is seated correctly.

Tightening torques
Component Nm
Cylinder head cover to cylinder head 10
Crankcase breather line to cylinder head cover 10
Secondary air line to cylinder head cover 10
Hose clamps 2

[AudiSeefu]

nice write up.

[dougyfresh]

You can get a high Temp sealant at an auto parts place; it just needs to be petroleum compatible (for oil pans, valve cover gaskets and so forth), if it is RTV it is silicone based and will be disolved by the oil.

You are better off using the Audi/VW sealant. Its expensive but it works wonders and you'll never have a problem.

[AudiA4Turbo22]

how many of u paint the valve cover??

[pondside36]

I have never used the VW/Audi sealant, but if you compared ingredients with a high temp sealant for petroleum use like Lock Tight or similar quality product they are most likely the same. I was using the Caterpillar RTV at like $30 a tube for coolant flanges and what not and tried a different product, same ingredients just not manufacturer brand name.. not saying the VW/Audi product isn't top notch but possibly over priced hence everyones reference to the stealership...either way it is safe to say you need to use some sealant..

[audipotential]

Wow thanks guys. Ive been helped by you guys so I thought Id give back.

Yes I painted it while I was there. It was very dinged and scratched so I figured why not make it a little nicer.


I used a sealer that starts with a P, its german I cant remember what its called.pennosil pen something

I got the part for 20 dollars at my local Vw/Audi specialist.

[audipotential]

To help clarify..on rectagular objects the proper way to torque down is to start in the middle alternating back and forth to the outer side to prevent bowing...

Fair enough.

[audipotential]

Come on Rippie Chippie! Get me my first sticky my main man

[audipotential]

Guys I used stuff called reinzosil. Its Audi V-dub approved. http://www.rm-communications.co.uk/r...ngproducts.htm

[Mimiantolin]

Hi guys. I need to replace the cylinder head retaining studs that hold down the AMB valve cover. I read on an earlier post that M6x35 is one of the sizes...apparently there are one size for the perimeter and a different size for the center. What are the sizes I need for 2003 a4 b6 1.8T AMB engine? Can someone post a link to where to buy a set or kit? What to look for to check if my current gasket should be replaced because it looks good just that my studs have become loose. So I wanted to know if I should save my new gasket and just fix the hardware..

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[turtleman]

Hi guys. I need to replace the cylinder head retaining studs that hold down the AMB valve cover. I read on an earlier post that M6x35 is one of the sizes...apparently there are one size for the perimeter and a different size for the center. What are the sizes I need for 2003 a4 b6 1.8T AMB engine? Can someone post a link to where to buy a set or kit? What to look for to check if my current gasket should be replaced because it looks good just that my studs have become loose. So I wanted to know if I should save my new gasket and just fix the hardware..

Sent from my LGMS550 using Audizine mobile app

Mimi, I don't exactly know where on the valve cover you're talking about. Though I do use this website for all my diagram needs, its already directed to our B6s and it includes the part numbers you need. Personally if I have to order anything I just go with fcpeuro.

[Mimiantolin]

Thank you for the prompt reply. I am about to look into the link you posted.Screenshot_2019-12-14-18-36-25-1-1.jpeg

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