pulsing juddery noisy braking. Rotors?

[bunce]

I think it might be a warped rotor, new to these cars. What do you guys think?

[scot_w]

I did quite a bit of reading from the various brake and pad vendors due to related problems. Often times this is due to uneven pad deposit on the rotors rather than warping. Try the StopTech bedding process and it may correct the problem.

[bunce]

Cheers scot, you just saved me about 200 buckaroonies

[bunce]

having driven another 100 miles , i noticed it's not totally gone. Should i try again?

[oc-drop]

how many miles on the rotors... how many pad sets on the rotors?

[bunce]

I'm not sure, i only just bought it. I think there are 2 pads per rotor. It's a 2004 a6 s-line with 52,xxx miles

[votblindub]

mine went at 60-65kmi range. depends on the driver, but id say 50+kmi and rotor wear is normal. does the braking surface look and feel scored? kind of like a record? is there a little bit of a lip on the very inside(near the hat) and the same at the very outer edge? does ur car vibrate when u brake? if u have all of those symptoms, theyre 99.9% warped and done. this is what i had and the dealer told me theyre warped. look closely at the rotor to the left. this is a photo of my old and new rear rotors. you can see the shiny part(braking surface) and the dull outer ring(this is the lip i was talking about) and one on the very inside. you can also see how scraped and spotted the braking surface looks.

i also consulted with Jeremy at www.matrixintegrated.cc and he also said those are symptoms of warped rotors. i'd suggest getting new ones. nothing fancy, OEM or OEM spec replacements.
i got new rotors from them. heres what its like now

[trapped]

Wow, I just figured this out 3 hours ago and now I see a post. Anyone know how much a nice set of brembo or stoptech rotors cost. After about how many miles do you recken should rotors be changed.

Also just incase there is uneven deposit how do you clean them?

[votblindub]

Wow, I just figured this out 3 hours ago and now I see a post. Anyone know how much a nice set of brembo or stoptech rotors cost. After about how many miles do you recken should rotors be changed.

Also just incase there is uneven deposit how do you clean them?

you dont change them after xxxxxx miles. you change them as needed. you dont really clean them, other than using brake parts cleaner fluid. i have ATE in the back and Zimmerman upfront. A lot of audi/vw owners have those. i'd recomend that. dont bother looking at those big brake kits or whatever. 99% of us dont NEED those. plus u cant just swap fronts and stuff. theres too much other stuff to do along with it, which i wont get into. toss on some zimmermans and ull be fine. while ur at it, change ur pads too. most ppl think about SS lines also. ill tell you this much. if youve never experienced brake fade, dont bother looking at lines.
get to work, man heres my motto: now get to it

[trapped]

Lol Thanks, I was not considering A BBK, I have the HP2 breaks on my 00 2.7t and let me tell you this thing stops extremly well for a DD. Thanks for the advice. Anyone know where there is a diy for chaning pads. I am going to paint my calipers (black) and figure that would be a good time to do everything. Also how do you switch to SS break lines. Do you have to blead the fluid and do all that PITA work?

[votblindub]

Lol Thanks, I was not considering A BBK, I have the HP2 breaks on my 00 2.7t and let me tell you this thing stops extremly well for a DD. Thanks for the advice. Anyone know where there is a diy for chaning pads. I am going to paint my calipers (black) and figure that would be a good time to do everything. Also how do you switch to SS break lines. Do you have to blead the fluid and do all that PITA work?

pads are easy. i did mine. rears have guide clips that u have to compress to make them fit into the brake caliper opening.

there are my pads. old is on the right, new one the left.
heres the rear caliper

the wrench is sitting on a bolt that u wont need to remove. theres 2 bolts behind each caliper holding it on. pull those out and the caliper comes off. now if you look at the rear caliper right in the middle of it, theres a big open area, thats where the clips go. the old pads just come out if u grab them and just pull. you will need a tool to turn the piston back in so that the pads fit iinside the caliper and it all goes back onto the rotor.
DO NOT BUY THIS ONE

those do nothing. go to advance auto and buy this one

you will need to use that to push the pistons back into the caliper. heres the short version of how to do the brakes.
1) jack up the car
2) remove wheel
3) remove 2 bolts on the back of the caliper
4) without disconnecting any of the lines or wires(for abs or pad wear sensor) pull off the caliper from the rotor
5) pull out the pads by firmly pulling on them. they all sit in with clips that will let go when u pull them. Unhook the pad wear sensor(if there is one).
6) using the toolkit push the piston back into the caliper
7) insert new pads into the caliper(reconnect pad wear sensor is there is one)
8) bolt the caliper back on
9)pump the brake pedal a couple of times, till it feels firm. The first one or two times if will go all the way down to the floor with no or very little resistance. mine was firm on the second pump, this varies car to car
10) put the wheel back on
11)lower the car onto the ground
12)proceed to wheel #2,3 and 4.
13)carefully follow the manufacturer bedding procedures
done, and enjoy driving
one thing i noticed on my car, the inner pad on the rear brake sat at a 30 degree angle, whereas the outside pad sat straight. this is not a problem apparently because once you get the caliper back onto the rotor and apply the brake it straightens the pad out with the pressure. my OEM ones sat like that and the new Pagid's sat in exactly the same and they are worn out even as u can see in the photo
if you have any questions, let me know. good luck with the project.

[trapped]

Cool I guess when I get the money for the new rotors I will do it. Ill keep you in mind though if somthing goes wrong, but it seems very very straight forward. my friend has done his breaks often and has the tools needed. Thanks I never know how simple the job really was.

[votblindub]

its not too too bad. things like pb blaster will help. most bolts in there are on pretty hard due to age and heat seizing, but they come out. we just used hand tools to get em out. if anything IM me on AIM, im under this same name

[trapped]

Went out for fun tonight and the shaking was terrible, now its squeeking, my suspension feels like its about to fall to pieces. I really don't know what to do. I really dont want to fix the whole front suspension, but idk what to do? I will soon change the rotors and pads though.

[golovemd]

Hey, I was going to start a new thread but this seems similar so i figured i may as well ask here. I test drove a 2001 S4 last night. Everything seemed ok, except there was a sort of creaking noise when starting to drive and some slight shaking when braking. Now I don't remember hearing the creaking as we drove more. I am not sure if this could be something brake related or if it is something more related to suspension or someone. Sorry if this doesn't belong in this tread, I'd be happy to start a new one if you think thats more appropriate.

[trapped]

I think this is along the basis of my previous thread. I think its a control arm or tie rod. They get old so need to be replaced... I think that the shaking under heavy breaking caused this to occur faster then normal. Any 2nds?