Brake Pad Replacement Questions

[IllA4-1.8t]

2004 B6 A4Q with 59K miles
worn brake pad light came on yesterday, I'll be changing my pads tomorrow.

Just eyeballing the pads with the wheels on, it looks like the rear pads are thinner than the fronts. Rotors look/feel fine (pretty smooth only very light grooves, no pulsing grinding at the brake pedal.

1) Will I be able to tell by eyeball which pads (front or rear) need replacement? Is there a pad wear line I'll be able to identify or minimum thickness spec I could measure?

From my searches I got that I may need to open up the brake fluid reservoir to spill off some fluid as I push my pistons back in.

2) should I open the brake fluid reservoir before I start pushing the rotors back in?
3) If I can push the piston back in with the brake fluid reservoir cap shut, what will be the sign that I need to open it to spill off fluid (resistance in the rotor, fluid leaking from the cap?)
4) I gather that I can open the brake fluid reservoir cap to spill off fluid (or top up fluid) as necessary without needing to bleed the brakes, correct?

If the fluid is brown and mucky then I'm up for a brake bleed as well.
5) If I have to bleed the brakes how much fluid will I need to buy to get the job done?

I've got the new pads (front and rear to be safe, I know I'll need them both eventually), caliper kit, micrometer, stands and all the hand tools needed and am pretty mechanically inclined, at least I can follow DIY instructions pretty well.

If possible, I'd like to avoid getting into bleeding the brakes as part of this job. If the general recommendation is tough s**T, best practice would be to bleed, I'll be on my way down to the parts store to buy a brake bleed kit.

Any insight the more experienced forum members could provide would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Matt

[EBG 18T]

check the thickness of your rotors first. It might be a good time to replace the rotors. And yes, BLEED the brakes. You have 59k miles on the brake fluid, it is time to be replaced. many of us see brake fluid as a 1x yr or once every 2yrs type of maintance thing.

[gotquattro]

2004 B6 A4Q with 59K miles
worn brake pad light came on yesterday, I'll be changing my pads tomorrow.

Just eyeballing the pads with the wheels on, it looks like the rear pads are thinner than the fronts. Rotors look/feel fine (pretty smooth only very light grooves, no pulsing grinding at the brake pedal.

1) Will I be able to tell by eyeball which pads (front or rear) need replacement? Is there a pad wear line I'll be able to identify or minimum thickness spec I could measure?

Only the fronts have the wear indicator.
At +/- 60,000, I'd just replace all four corners with new. I'm fond of Hawk HPS, but whatever...

From my searches I got that I may need to open up the brake fluid reservoir to spill off some fluid as I push my pistons back in.

2) should I open the brake fluid reservoir before I start pushing the rotors back in?
3) If I can push the piston back in with the brake fluid reservoir cap shut, what will be the sign that I need to open it to spill off fluid (resistance in the rotor, fluid leaking from the cap?)
4) I gather that I can open the brake fluid reservoir cap to spill off fluid (or top up fluid) as necessary without needing to bleed the brakes, correct?

If the fluid is brown and mucky then I'm up for a brake bleed as well.
5) If I have to bleed the brakes how much fluid will I need to buy to get the job done?

I've got the new pads (front and rear to be safe, I know I'll need them both eventually), caliper kit, micrometer, stands and all the hand tools needed and am pretty mechanically inclined, at least I can follow DIY instructions pretty well.

If possible, I'd like to avoid getting into bleeding the brakes as part of this job. If the general recommendation is tough s**T, best practice would be to bleed, I'll be on my way down to the parts store to buy a brake bleed kit.

You'll be bleeding your brakes, may as well get over that bit now. Really you should be replacing your fluid completely. A good pressure bleeder makes this a painless process for a single person.

As for having to remove any fluid from your master cylinder, that would only be if you've added any fluid. Full with new pads, pads wear, fluid gets lower, push pistons in, fluid goes back to original level, providing you don't compress any more than needed (bad idea, that...). No extra fluid gets created. You will want to remove the cap so your not fighting the sealed system.

Rear calipers require the twist & compress method. Proper tool here is suggested, however several have said they get along fine without it. I know I always did before the Audi. It kicked my brake changing butt, and now I own the tool...

Of course, now that your in this deep, new rotors and lines might be in order...

[05a4flip]

Does anyone know forsure the rear rotor size on a 05 1.8t quattro SE I heard it was changed to 255mm on the rears after 2004.5 is this true? or did audi continue to randomly select btween 245 and 255 for that year. Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.

[IllA4-1.8t]

Thanks for the info EBG 18T and gotquattro, yeah that's what I figured on the bleed. You're right, I was kidding myself that I could get away without bleeding the brakes, gotta do it anyway, might as well get it all done at once. Now to go find a pressure bleeder at the auto parts store.


Thanks,

Matt

[PETARDED]

Bout to have this done, are there some special pads I should buy that last longer than the OEM the stealership puts on?

[a2gtinut]

watch out for bleeder screw on rear calipers.
They like to very hard to turn and easy to snap

[diztek]

i love my ecs slotted rotors and hawk hps pads. if you go with hawk hps, tire rack has them with the sensors.

as for the rear rotor size. I just called ecs and gave them my vin and they were able to tell me what size my car came with.

[a2gtinut]

ECS charges too much.

[PETARDED]

ECS charges too much.

PWN3D!!!!

[jrau13]

Then don't buy yours there.

[PETARDED]

Then don't buy yours there.

Hahaha. Im just shopping right now, ECS has been good to me in the past.