DIY Oil Change on B7 A4

[Eurotrash8]

I did do a search on the b7 a4 oil change but ended up with nothing. Change someone direct me to where I can find a DIY on this?

Thanks

[rings65]

Here you go:

http://forums.audiworld.com/a4b7/thr...98.phtml#23726

[Eurotrash8]

Thanks alot Rings!!!

[gablks4]

if you have a tiptronic automatic quattro 2.0t then pay to have it done.

[GDC]

if you have a tiptronic automatic quattro 2.0t then pay to have it done.

whyy??????

[CystmX]

if you have a tiptronic automatic quattro 2.0t then pay to have it done.

Yeah... why?

[wildcat333]

if you have a tiptronic automatic quattro 2.0t then pay to have it done.

[mr shickadance]

Lol at searched and nothing came up

[TFSI]

if you have a tiptronic automatic quattro 2.0t then pay to have it done.

What!!!!!!!
Why?!?!!!!

[redcon1]

Pretty sure they are referring to the riduculous gyrations needed to drain the oil filter housing, and the fact that a plug for the Tip is right in the way to unscrew the filter housing. My A4 is the only car I have ever owned that takes me more than 15 minutes to change the oil/filter. I'm pretty efficient at it now, but it's a pain in the ass.

[chrislane31]

Pretty sure they are referring to the riduculous gyrations needed to drain the oil filter housing, and the fact that a plug for the Tip is right in the way to unscrew the filter housing. My A4 is the only car I have ever owned that takes me more than 15 minutes to change the oil/filter. I'm pretty efficient at it now, but it's a pain in the ass.

I have a brand new never used drain tool for sale if anyone is interested for $20 with the drain tube.

[Quattro SFC]

Would have been nice to have one of those yesterday, instead of letting that shit spray all over the place! Haha

I have a brand new never used drain tool for sale if anyone is interested for $20 with the drain tube.

[wootwoot]

Pretty sure they are referring to the riduculous gyrations needed to drain the oil filter housing, and the fact that a plug for the Tip is right in the way to unscrew the filter housing. My A4 is the only car I have ever owned that takes me more than 15 minutes to change the oil/filter. I'm pretty efficient at it now, but it's a pain in the ass.

Just changed my oil for the first time and it is a major pain in the ass. It's like they are trying to force you into taking your car to the shop.

[Grada89]

Just changed my oil for the first time and it is a major pain in the ass. It's like they are trying to force you into taking your car to the shop.

Yea it sucks at first but if you have the drain tool and the filter housing socket with an extension its pretty simple. The only thing that pisses me off is removing the protective plastic on the bottom and then putting it back while laying on my back. PITA

[TFSI]

Yea it sucks at first but if you have the drain tool and the filter housing socket with an extension its pretty simple. The only thing that pisses me off is removing the protective plastic on the bottom and then putting it back while laying on my back. PITA

You can put back the plastic cap from the engine bay, just reach for it.

[kristokes]

A better DIY: http://www.audiction.com/audi-mainte...0t-oil-change/

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

These two tool make the job much easier as stated above...
Oil Filter Housing Drain Tube

Oil Filter Socket (36mm)

[schnell]

Dealership only charges me $10 for an oil change, so it's a pretty good deal. I've only done it once, and it's a PITA!

[wootwoot]

Dealership only charges me $10 for an oil change, so it's a pretty good deal. I've only done it once, and it's a PITA!

Pics or it didn't happen!

[A4-Wookie]

Pics or it didn't happen!

Dealer says - hand job or it wont happen

[80sGuy]

Dealership only charges me $10 for an oil change, so it's a pretty good deal. I've only done it once, and it's a PITA!

Hitler paid more than that for his VW Schwimmwagen.

[MikeInLongIslan]

I bought a 2007 CPO'd A4 a little over a year ago - I got 3 free oil changes out as part of the deal. That said, they recommend 10,000 mile oil change intervals which sound a little long. What I've been doing is to just change the oil around 5,000 miles and I leave the full oil and filter change up to the dealership.

I have one of those through the dipstick oil change systems from when I had an inboard boat. It's basically a 5 gallon metal gas can that you create a vacuum with. It has a long plastic tube that you slide down the dipstick to the bottom of the oil sump and it drains the oil that way.

http://www.amazon.com/LiquiVac-Liqui...9384027&sr=8-3

It's pretty easy to do - no hassling with jacks, jack stands, etc.

My A4 is a tip and I took one look at where the filter housing is and said "not worth the hassle".

[SidewinderX]

I know I'm dragging this up from the dead a bit but I just did my first oil change in my '08 A4 2.0T and I figured I'd give an after-action report / ask a couple questions.

1) The biggest challenge for me was unclipping the wire harness that's right in the way of the oil filter housing. Once I removed that, I had no problem attaching the drain hose/removing the housing.

2) I attached the drain hose and screwed in all the way (at least I thought all the way) in and drained some oil out of the house. When I went to unscrew the housing it turns out there was still a ton of oil in there... it was only a minor enviromental disaster, but I was pretty surprised there was so much oil in there. Does the drain line *only* remove the oil from inside the filter but not the oil outside the filter but still inside the housing? Or did I just not drain it correctly? Any ideas?

3) When I was under the hood I noticed that the coolant level was *just* below the "min" line ** I was planning to get some more coolant at autozone and top it off, but the owners manual seems very intent on saying that the coolant level shouldn't drop and you should never need to add more fluid. Anything to that, or is that just the standard owners-manual scare tactic stuff?

Thanks!

3)

[mr shickadance]

chances are you ran your engine a bit to help speed up the oil drain process?


so chances are the coolant had not had a chance to fill into the reservoir yet, check your coolant when it is cold and see if you still are below the line

[RAudiB7A4]

I pay $56 out the door for an oil change at my dealer. For that price, I'll let the pro's do it. What are you guys paying for materials to do it your self? I'm curious as to how much your saving. For me, I'll pay $6-8 for the labor and not having to deal with the b.s. Just sayin....

[TFSI]

$83 at dealer. I do it by myself for about $55. 28 dollar isn't a big gap, but i just want to save my time going there and the trip, traffic, yadayada.
Once in a while, they send a coupon for $59.99... tempting :)

[Charles.waite]

$83 at dealer. I do it by myself for about $55. 28 dollar isn't a big gap, but i just want to save my time going there and the trip, traffic, yadayada.
Once in a while, they send a coupon for $59.99... tempting :)

I was defeated changing my b7's oil the other day. Didn't have a socket for the oil filter housing, didn't have the drain tube, had a filter and oil though. Basically I had just finished replacing the Valve Cover gasket and was cold and said f-it! Just got a coupon in the mail from the dealer for $70 and all fluids topped off. Very temping...

[TFSI]

Haha just take it to the dealer

[Charles.waite]

Haha just take it to the dealer

Probably what i'm going to do. I'll save the fresh Rotella T6 for my B6!

[RAudiB7A4]

Wow, guess I'm getting a pretty stellar deal for $56 out the door oil changes! My semi-local Indy shop (80 mile drive) does it for $75. I think I'll stick with my dealer changing my oil! Lol.

[Charles.waite]

Wow, guess I'm getting a pretty stellar deal for $56 out the door oil changes! My semi-local Indy shop (80 mile drive) does it for $75. I think I'll stick with my dealer changing my oil! Lol.

Yea $56 from the dealer is actually a pretty good deal for anywhere.

[RAudiB7A4]

Prolly helps that my audi service rep at the dealer freaking loves my car. Especially since I told him it's fine if he takes it for a "test drive" whenever it's in for service. His eyes light up everytime I pull it in the shop to drop it off. He'll blow off other customers to shoot the shot with me, asking "what have ya done to it now?". Lol

[SidewinderX]

Oh, ok, didn't think of that. I'll take a look when it's been sitting for awhile.

Any thoughts on the oil filter housing?

I paid about $40 out the door for materials, but I've got a $7 rebate coming on the oil, so $33 total. I'm not tied to a specific brand of oil... I usually try and buy whatever oil is on sale. This time it was Valvoline SynPower 5W30 and an STP filter.

[chrislane31]

Only use OEM filters

[SidewinderX]

Only use OEM filters

Do you have any particular reasoning for that? Filters aren't a very complicated, especially when it's a cartridge-type filter like ours is.

[exsterminator]

My dealer is $90+tax so close to $100! I did the oil change myself - first one since I have had the car - and it was the biggest PITA of any car I have done it on. Definitely a case of needing the right tools. At least I know what to expect next time and should be able to cut the time taken in half

[Charles.waite]

Only use OEM filters

Don't be ridiculous. A decent Name Brand filter is fine. I got a wix filter and it looks solid. with the filters we have its pretty hard to sell a shitty product, the filter is right there to see, not encased in metal.

[Charles.waite]

My dealer is $90+tax so close to $100! I did the oil change myself - first one since I have had the car - and it was the biggest PITA of any car I have done it on. Definitely a case of needing the right tools. At least I know what to expect next time and should be able to cut the time taken in half

Good, so I'm not crazy! I changed the oil on my B6 and it was pretty straighforward. the B7 though, too many little steps, connect the drain hose, pinch it off, open drain plug, pull filter off. Its just one or two too many steps that aren't completely obvious. I mean its not hard, but its not obvious like on most cars, other audis included.

[BoSNiaN]

@Dealer oil changes, sure the price difference might not be huge but this way I know they won't be damaging everything like most shops do to complete the work, and I know I am using the filter and oil I want. Yes it's a PIA compared to other cars, but get used to owning a overly-complicated German vehicle, I have.

@Filter, I agree with only using the OEM one. I would DEFINITELY stay away from cheap-Fram/paper filters, but those made in Germany are ok (thinking of Mann here).

[DRAKLORE]

I still can't believe there's a DIY for this lol
But on the filter thingy, a general rule of thumb on most products, if it's not within a 20% of the OEM cost it's prob total crap.or more likely to hurt something. Despite how simple it seems I've seen and been shown examples of certain aftermarket filters that will kill a motor, specifically and especially cartrige filters. And here's why, the inner seal height and diameter are all very tight clearances and I 2mm gap can cause an improper seal and a situation where your oil becomes extremely contaminated.

On fords diesel trucks there was a string of motor failures, turns out an aftermarket company realized their own filter and cap to the cartrige that was 30$ compared to the OE cost of 70$ for just the cartrige, the cap and cartrige on the aftermarket setup were specific to each other and no one kept the OE cap after switching. Then if they decided to swap filters again and the mechanic was unaware of what happened they would use the shorter oem filter/aftermarket cap and the oil bypass valve would not be depressed and the truck would circulate used oil..
Long story short... Only use tried and true aftermarket parts.