Cylinder Voltage help please.

[Antekaudi]

Hi everyone.

I have check engine light.

First i had misfire on cylinder 2. With that misfire i had Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal too High error. My voltage on cylinder 2 was ( 2 times bigger then other ones.)'

The old ignition coil kept popping out.

So i got new ignition coil. Car runs kinda better but after driving a little i got check engine light.

I got o2 sensor bank 1 error.
I also got Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal too High
And i got Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)

Car has 23 k miles.

New ignition coil didnt pop out yet.

Voltage is still 2 times bigger on cylinder 2.

I didnt change spark plugs.

Help me guys :(

Thank you.

[dirtybrd]

Try tightening your plugs to start with. Coils shouldn't just pop out.

[Antekaudi]

I did tighten it, Idk why that happens.

[Antekaudi]

Anyone ? Please help

Thank you

[Antekaudi]

So no one knows whats causing higher voltage on cylinder 2 ? I dont know if its gonna cause any problems but it just bothers me.

Thanks

[ThreePointOhh]

you have 23k, take it to the dealer.

[CO AVANT]

I would not drive your car anymore. Those codes point to your timing belt skipping a tooth or the cam correlation between the intake and exhaust cam is off. This can ruin your engine. You need to line your timing marks to Top Dead Center and see if everything lines up. Then I would take your valve cover off and check the correlation arrows at the back of the cams... Check to see if the keyway has sheared off on your cam gear.

[Antekaudi]

I understand but how would this happen ? The car has 23k miles no timing belt job done so how come it may be slipped by one tooth ?

Thanks guys

And what would the higher voltage on cylinder 2 indicate ?

[CO AVANT]

shit happens, what can I say? Your cam tensioner could be loose or have failed causing these codes too. The chain linkage needs to be checked and the # of links between cam arrows verified per oem spec.

Diagnosticator, myself, and many others have good information in this thread that you should read.
http://www.audigeeks.com/forums/index.php?topic=2289.0

[Antekaudi]

Can it have something to do with crappy spark plugs ?

I am changing them today and i am changing my o2 sensor then i will see if the g40 sensor error comes back again.

I compared the sound of my engine to my friends 1.8t and my car makes a bit more noise then his.

Idk if this has something to do but.. will see.

Thanks

[CO AVANT]

Those cam codes should have zero correlation with your spark plugs and O2 sensor...

Did those cam codes say "intermittent" by them by chance?

[Antekaudi]

I am not sure.

I got check engine yesterday again. I will get the car within couple hours so i will check what exact codes its throwing now.

The car seems to run fine but its a bit more noisy.

Any idea why the voltage on cylinder 2 is higher ?

Thanks for help i really appreciate it.

[CO AVANT]

what are your cylinder voltage readings in cyl 1 through 4?

I would though really like you to get someone to check the timing on your engine ASAP. Any shop can do it relatively fast. You should be covered by audi though only having 23K...

[Antekaudi]

I dont have warranty.

And as far i remember the voltages are about .3 something on all of them besides cylinder 2 which is always about 2 times higher ~ .6 at idle.

I will get all the numbers once i get the car.

My dad is mechanic but he says the car is fine ( cause it runs normal) .

It may be just damn camshaft sensor but will see.

Those 1.8t really get on my nerves :P

[CO AVANT]

Yeah the "signal too high" part of the code does point to a faulty cam position sensor. They are a very delicate piece. Still wouldn't expect it to go out so soon on you, but stranger things have happened. If you replace the sensor, check the trigger wheel right behind it to make sure it is not damaged. Like I said though, I would check the engine timing first before you just throw $$$ on a cam position sensor. Since your dad can easily check the timing do that first, it's free. Sensors are not.

[Antekaudi]

Whats a trigger wheel ?

Do you have any pictures of the cam sensor and cams that would help understand how this thing works ?

How do you check timing ( I am not into mechanics that much yet) Is it a lot of work ?

THANKS !

[DenverNoob]

Yeah the "signal too high" part of the code does point to a faulty cam position sensor. They are a very delicate piece. Still wouldn't expect it to go out so soon on you, but stranger things have happened. If you replace the sensor, check the trigger wheel right behind it to make sure it is not damaged. Like I said though, I would check the engine timing first before you just throw $$$ on a cam position sensor. Since your dad can easily check the timing do that first, it's free. Sensors are not.

agreed on ALL of Jordan's points above. just because a failure isnt common doesnt mean it doesnt happen...and when cam position or timing codes begin to surface...this can be a BIG warning of things to come. better safe than blown motor at the end of the day...these "interference" motors dont have a lot of tollerence for timing being off...if off by even a couple of teeth on the timing belt your pistons and valves are going to meet each other...the result can be upwards of 7 or 8k in expenses...so do the math and have the damn thing looked at.

[Antekaudi]

You guys are getting me scared :(

If someone can put all the facts together what to check please do it.

I will check the car today but i need sort of a list so i dont miss anything while checking.

Thank you. I hope its nothing serious.

[CO AVANT]

It's just a tiny metal wheel that is right behind the sensor (cheap $). Still on the outside of the head. To check timing the timing belt cover needs to be removed first. Might have to take off that little metal covered behind shown in the second pic as well. Been so long that I forgot... no biggie though, it's simple to remove.

Look at the plastic piece at the front of the engine. That is the timing belt cover.


The cam position sensor is to the right of the black cam gear wheel


To engine check the timing properly.... line up the mark on your cam gear to the notch on your valve cover. Then look down at the crank pully (lowest on the right side in the pic) and verifly that the notch on the crank pulley exactly lines up with the notch on the plate behind at the same time.


To verify your cam timing the valve cover would need to come off. The chain tensioner and chain are at the back of the engine head. It's 15 or 16 rollers between cam arrow marks. I need to look back and see what mine was at, been a while...

[Antekaudi]

What do you guys think ?

[DenverNoob]

that would be a problem....yes
more details as to "jumping" pls...is it the belt, the sprocket itself? more info pls.

[CO AVANT]

That tensioner does indeed move when running and that's normal, but if it's moving a lot and the tension on the belt is not tight, then it may be going out on you. Is your timing belt tight? That tensioner can fail too.

[Antekaudi]

Lets just wait when i get my car back. My mom drove it to work ....

I will make some video how that thing moves and i will also collect some data from vag.

And then will see whats going on.

Thanks

btw whats "intake camshaft adjuster ?

[Antekaudi]

Ok i got the car.
Here is what i got.

16395/P0011/000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)

Possible Causes

* Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
* Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty

Possible Solutions

* Check Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
* Check Fuel Pump Relay (J17)

WTH is camshaft adjustment valve how does it look like and where is it located. Same with fuel pump relay (where is it).

I checked voltage on cylinders with vag and 1,3,4 on idle have ~.585v and cylinder 2 has ~ 1.1v

And yes it did say intermittent.

My o2 sensor in bank 1throws code too.