Fighting Front Shock Install!!

[mwc951]

I'm installing struts on my '01 A4 QM. I got the dirvers side in after 5 hours.
I can not seem to remove the passenger side assembly though. After 4 hours
of fighting it I walked away. The sway bar link is loose, two upper mounting bolts and the lower shock mounting bolt. I can't get enough clearance to lift the "wish-bone" on the bottom of the shock to lift above the lower.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

[biketsai]

show me a picture, you might have to use another jack to pry the strut out of place

[mholme]

I'm installing struts on my '01 A4 QM. I got the dirvers side in after 5 hours.
I can not seem to remove the passenger side assembly though. After 4 hours
of fighting it I walked away. The sway bar link is loose, two upper mounting bolts and the lower shock mounting bolt. I can't get enough clearance to lift the "wish-bone" on the bottom of the shock to lift above the lower.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Undo the two 13mm nuts as well as the 3 17mm bolts on the strut mount assembly. You'll get enough clearance that way. Also, which way do you have the wheels turned?

[mwc951]

I'm not able to the the lower control arm dropped enough and/or get the shock lifted high enough to clear the lower.
I've tried turning the wheels...that was the only way I get the drivers side out.

[mholme]

release the whole upper strut mount assembly from the car, the 3 17mm bolts and two 13mm nuts. It'll fall right out..

[mwc951]

Thanks so very much...
I'll give it a try.

[Tiluleshpingen]

^^^^^^^^^1000

[Poopie]

do you have both front wheels off the ground?

you can use a big adjustable wrench over the lower control are to tweak it to get the bottom mount up and over.

[mwc951]

Both wheels off the ground...
Wheels turned towards drivers side...
3 17's holding strut mount out...
Shock WILL NOT clear the lower!!

I need a helper, to push down on the entire assembly while I maneuver the shock.
Tomorrow I'll have access to a buddy to help.
What a PITA!!!

[Poopie]

I did it all by myself. I usually leave all the top bolts on but slightly loose so the shock assembly stays up but can still move around. Are the sway links completely off? you can stick a screw driver in it or a bolt alignment tool in the lower strut mounting hole and use it as leverage to lift it over.

[Lazer Viking]

i can do both fronts in under an hour at this point =)

[mwc951]

Sway link on passenger disconnected, drivers completely reassembled-but wheel is still off the ground.

[mholme]

Both wheels off the ground...
Wheels turned towards drivers side...
3 17's holding strut mount out...
Shock WILL NOT clear the lower!!

AND the 2 13mm nuts are off and you still can't pop that thing out? You should have plenty of room to pull the shock UP and clear the lower control arm and drive shaft at this point..

[Poopie]

just cut the end off...lol

[Poopie]

AND the 2 13mm nuts are off and you still can't pop that thing out? You should have plenty of room to pull the shock UP and clear the lower control arm and drive shaft at this point..

leaving those nuts and bolts on will actually help. it keeps the strut supported up. I leave the 16mm control arm mount bolts tight and the 13's slightly loose. you could release the pinch bolt......if its not seized.

[mholme]

leaving those nuts and bolts on will actually help. it keeps the strut supported up. I leave the 16mm control arm mount bolts tight and the 13's slightly loose. you could release the pinch bolt......if its not seized.

Why would you want the shock supported up if you are trying to take it out? Removing all those upper nuts and bolts allows you the room to pull up on the shock and free it. There should be no need to remove the pinch bolt if you take out all the 17 mm bolts and the 13mm nuts. That's the work around for a seized pinched bolt.

[mwc951]

I really don't want to mess with that pinch bolt.

And...yes..I actually considered taking the cut-off wheel to the bottom of the shock!

[Poopie]

Why would you want the shock supported up if you are trying to take it out? Removing all those upper nuts and bolts allows you the room to pull up on the shock and free it. There should be no need to remove the pinch bolt if you take out all the 17 mm bolts and the 13mm nuts. That's the work around for a seized pinched bolt.

because you're not gaining any space by removing those bolts. If you remove those 16mm bolts and pull the control arm mount down, you are compressing the spring downwards. leaving those bolts on keeps the strut assembly supported up. With the 13s loose you still have plenty of side to side wiggle to get the lower mount up and over. If you can't get it just wait for a buddy to help or just take a long break. Usually when you come back to it, it is easier.

[mholme]

because you're not gaining any space by removing those bolts. If you remove those 16mm bolts and pull the control arm mount down, you are compressing the spring downwards. leaving those bolts on keeps the strut assembly supported up. With the 13s loose you still have plenty of side to side wiggle to get the lower mount up and over. If you can't get it just wait for a buddy to help or just take a long break. Usually when you come back to it, it is easier.

I gotta disagree from my own experience. You still get the side to side movement when you remove all the upper bolts/nuts. You can push down on the lower control arm, once all those bolts are out, the whole housing flops kind of sideways, giving you room to pull up and it will come out over the control arm. I had to do this when I couldn't get my pinch bolts out.

[Poopie]

well we all have our methods. I never had an issue with getting the struts off sport or non sport. I've done about 7 installs on b5s with out a problem using the 2 upper bolt method.

[mwc951]

I see both points, and really appreciate the input!
Much more help here than rennlist and some of the other
boards I frequent.

The drivers side, with the 2 13s free there was
plenty of room to get the shock over the lower
control arm(with the wheel turned). Very odd
that the passenger side is putting up such a fight.

[audiluxary]

I just disconnected the sway bar so it releaves pressure and then put a pry bar underneath and you can pop the strut right out, pretty simple once you do the first one.

[Lazer Viking]

i use the 2 upper bolt method
leave two top bolts in
remove lower bolt
get large metal bar wedge between subframe and lower control arm
then get someone to stand on, or you can kneel on the bar, pull the bottom of the strut towards you, and then over the control arm

[zrowcool]

yeah i removed the tw 13mm from the top, the 1 18mm from the bottom and the sway linkm and the 2 upper control arms, then lifted the shock up with my left hand, pulled the hub/caliper down at to the right with my right hand and just slid the lower shock mount over the front lower control arm.

[Mawhitey]

I would undo the 18mm on the inner part of the front arm and drop that down out of the way, the shock will fly off then.

I recon mine must be velcro'd in as they are on and off in mins now

[bloodstar57]

release the whole upper strut mount assembly from the car, the 3 17mm bolts and two 13mm nuts. It'll fall right out..

Yeah what he said.......push down on the whole assembly and pull it out. Taking them out should take no more than 30 mins after the car is up and wheels are off. Oh and please use some good spring compressors