LED License Plate Lights DIY

[greene08]

I plan to do a full write up later this week and will post the revision here when it is ready but for now this is what I have as it pertains to my installation. I love the result, they look great and so far they've been running solid for 8 months. I will include pictures later as well.

Do it right and the result will be worth the effort. If you use some "hyper white" halogen replacements you can easily overheat and melt the housings.

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I ordered my festoon LED bulbs from the site http://autolumination.com/festoon.htm and they work great! The bulbs you will need are 3/8 down the page and are the 39mm 9 LED super white festoon bulbs. The style is 6418 and the are currently $6.99 each. In addition you will need a 15-25ohm load equalizer found in the equalizers section http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm.

This should be all you need to get the job done right. When you get the bulbs you just install them like you would any other. To install the load equalizer you need to remove the trunk lid inside cover to expose the plate light wiring. Then you install the equalizer in line with the positive feed for the plate lights. Once that is done you're all set and they will work great!

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[zachf88]

I know that the resistors get hot, so do you run a risk of melting anything behind there?

[greene08]

No, I attached the resistor to the aluminum metal bracing on the inside of the trunk lid. This acts as a heat-sink and will disperse the heat throughout the aluminum lid. They do get hot but no problems thus far.

[zachf88]

ok, sweet! Thanks!!

[hmmd]

whoops, didn't see it it written up there, any pics?

[zachf88]

how do you take the trunk cover off?? and do you have a pic of where you placed the resistor?

[jaysoegiarto]

why do you need the equalizers for?
i thought it is as easy as plug n play for the license plate bulbs ??
is there sumthing i am missing??

[Siggiepop]

i believe its 36mm isn't it?

[zachf88]

they are not plug and play if you have bi-xenon's with dis (you get a "comfot control module") and since the LED's don't use very much power compared to the incandescent bulbs, it registers the bulb as being "burnt-out" and stops sending power that bulb...

[AudiOso]

I plan to do a full write up later this week and will post the revision here when it is ready but for now this is what I have as it pertains to my installation. I love the result, they look great and so far they've been running solid for 8 months. I will include pictures later as well.

So far no pics or full write-up. It sure would be handy if you're up to it.

[zachf88]

I did it using his description and some common sense.... It's not all that hard!

[cstarky15]

but some pics would be helpful too

[redlabel81]

Then you install the equalizer in line with the positive feed for the plate lights.

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I though the resistors had to be installed in parallell to the bulb......?

[jahciple]

i wanna see pictures dammit.

[greene08]

Then you install the equalizer in line with the positive feed for the plate lights.

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I though the resistors had to be installed in parallell to the bulb......?[/QUOTE]

That is not correct. If you install the resistor inline with the positive feed (with t-taps for instance) and don't ground the resistor the resistor will not do anything. The electricity will take the path of least "resistance" and bypass the resistor.

The resistor is meant to add resistance to the positive current line, if you cut the line entirely and place the resistor inline you will blow the resistor and you'll still end up with the improper resistance.

*It is probably important to note that "inline" and "parallel" here are being referred to as the same thing.*

[greene08]

Sorry, I still need to get the pictures up. I will try to do that this weekend. Sorry guys.

[greene08]

i believe its 36mm isn't it?

36mm is the stock size of the OE festoon bulb. Since the electrode clips in the light housing are flexible, a 39mm fits in nice and snug but without trouble.

[greene08]

they are not plug and play if you have bi-xenon's with dis (you get a "comfot control module") and since the LED's don't use very much power compared to the incandescent bulbs, it registers the bulb as being "burnt-out" and stops sending power that bulb...

They are not plug and play with any modern car. The power draw has to be within an optimal and pre-set range or the car will register the bulb is "out." Since the LED bulbs draw less power than incandescent by design, you need to add resistance to "trick" the car into thinking the bulb is not out.

[AudiOso]

I can't wait until you post these pics. I know I'm a moron for not being able to visualize what you are talking about but that's me... I'm a re-re.

[jjuan]

I bought all the same things greene08 did and with his help got it to work perfect. Very easy to do. Just use the "quick splices" to hook the load equalizer to the gray and brown wires in the loom that goes to the license plate. The other two wires are black and another brown, they go to the trunk release just above the license plate. The 4 wires and wrapped in fabric tape so you will have to cut that off. Be carfull not to cut the wires. I'm sorry I don't remember which brown wire goes to which. Watch where you splice to. You want to make sure that with the wires plugged back in that you have enough wire to reach where you want to mount the load equalizer.

[greene08]

I bought all the same things greene08 did and with his help got it to work perfect. Very easy to do. Just use the "quick splices" to hook the load equalizer to the gray and brown wires in the loom that goes to the license plate. The other two wires are black and another brown, they go to the trunk release just above the license plate. The 4 wires and wrapped in fabric tape so you will have to cut that off. Be carfull not to cut the wires. I'm sorry I don't remember which brown wire goes to which. Watch where you splice to. You want to make sure that with the wires plugged back in that you have enough wire to reach where you want to mount the load equalizer.

That is absolutely correct and I promise I will get the pics up soon!

[Alf]

I spent more than one year to find really simple and elegant solution for LED lights without all problems with resistors and heat dissipation or board computer error messages and finally I found it:


If you need real WHITE color LED's and plug & play installation go to:

http://www.hypercolor.de/product_inf...licht-W5W.html

or

http://www.hypercolor.de/advanced_se...=21w&x=14&y=12

or

http://www.hypercolor.de/index.php?c...raumlicht.html


You need to order LED with two (2) resistors for Audi A4 (B7) model


I'm so happy and grateful that I finally have this LED's and because of that I want to share this information with all of you who, like me, want to have this led city lights... until we will be able or in position to bye new A4 (B8 platform) or A5 with beautiful LED lights I see every day here in Austria :)

Sorry for my bad English language ...


Enjoy Light!

Alf

[zachf88]

Those won't work!! They will get WAYYYYY too hot and melt the housings..... The resistors get extremely hot!

[Alf]

Those won't work!! They will get WAYYYYY too hot and melt the housings..... The resistors get extremely hot!

Are you sure? I'm using this LED lights last 5 days and don't see any changes on my housing. Resistors are very small (SMD) few mm long. Anyway I'll check in the morning again how hot they are and inform you.

Thank you for the warning !

Alf

[AudiOso]

Are you sure? I'm using this LED lights last 5 days and don't see any changes on my housing. Resistors are very small (SMD) few mm long. Anyway I'll check in the morning again how hot they are and inform you.

Thank you for the warning !

Alf

So the LED bayonet bulbs you got for your license plate lamps have the resistors built-in? I was on the site, but my German is terrible. I found the 38mm bulbs, but didn't understand the description well. I saw that they came in red, green, blue and white. I would only be interested in white ones. Do you know if they take PayPal and ship to the states?

[darin1274]

Sorry, I still need to get the pictures up. I will try to do that this weekend. Sorry guys.

FAIL!!

[zachf88]

well, since the "normal" LED festoon's resistor gets up to 150+ F degrees, i doubt that the so called "resistor" on the hypercolor.de LED's will make up for the huge power drop..... I know that some audi's (ones that do not have DIS/comfort control module) do not need resistors (my 2005 BMW x5 4.8is doesn't need resistors). I have never used the LED's from that company, but i'm just stating LED facts

Those LED's on Hypercolor.de look like they just have built-in buck drivers.....

[Alf]

Those won't work!! They will get WAYYYYY too hot and melt the housings..... The resistors get extremely hot!

I checked LED's an housing today (25/05/08) and everything seems normal.

How can I attach pictures?

[Alf]

So the LED bayonet bulbs you got for your license plate lamps have the resistors built-in? I was on the site, but my German is terrible. I found the 38mm bulbs, but didn't understand the description well. I saw that they came in red, green, blue and white. I would only be interested in white ones. Do you know if they take PayPal and ship to the states?

I paid with PayPal but delivery is not fast. Waited 5 days from Germany to Austria. Normally it take 2 working days. But that's not big problem for me. I waited almost a year to find solution

[greene08]

FAIL!!

Wow... I know I've failed with the pictures. I need to redo the writeup in a detailed and organized fashion. The LEDs with the "built-in" resistors are hard to come by and don't usually work. If you have used a separate resistor before you will know how hot they get and how large they are. Getting this into the 36mm Festoon package is nearly impossible.

lf are you saying all you had to purchase are those LEDs from the .de website you posted and they worked out of the box with no extra resistor install? Do they flicker or give you a bulb out warning?

I'm installing an RS4 rear sway bar next week and PROMISE to take pictures of my LED light install at the same time.

[redlabel81]

I paid with PayPal but delivery is not fast. Waited 5 days from Germany to Austria. Normally it take 2 working days. But that's not big problem for me. I waited almost a year to find solution

But you have only installed the Citylights right??? Or have you mounted the Festoons from Hypercolor aswell? Without any resistor....?

[CardNation]

We want Pics, We want Pics!

[D-techniK]

Picture please!

[B7 Projectile]

We want Pics, We want Pics!

X2
Cant wait!

[greene08]

Crud... I keep promising but haven't delivered. OK. By Thursday I WILL have them on here for you all. Fair?

[Buttafuoco]

I though the resistors had to be installed in parallell to the bulb......?

That is not correct. If you install the resistor inline with the positive feed (with t-taps for instance) and don't ground the resistor the resistor will not do anything. The electricity will take the path of least "resistance" and bypass the resistor.

The resistor is meant to add resistance to the positive current line, if you cut the line entirely and place the resistor inline you will blow the resistor and you'll still end up with the improper resistance.

*It is probably important to note that "inline" and "parallel" here are being referred to as the same thing.*

Wait....what?

I generally make an effort to stay out of these threads, but you're giving people very wrong information.

"inline" (series) and "parallel" resistance are two very different things...and you're wrong about the effects either way...

[greene08]

I do agree that it really makes no sense. However, I specifically said that me calling "inline" and "parallel" the same thing was intentional and inline was not meant to signify "series"... obviously based on simple EE that is not true. I wasn't trying to re-wire the circuit and if I was would have stated it in a much different fashion. I was just trying to paint a picture since no re-writing is necessary.

Fortunately most of the people who have read it get the job done and are happy for the help. Writing after drinking is not always the best idea. I plan a full re-write when I get my pictures of the install.

Please though, if you would like to re-write it in a way that is more clear (and accurate) it would save me the time and maybe help others looking to do the work.

[whartung]

I'm very interested in the write up. I just dont want to start cutting wires under my trunk w/o pictures of you doing it first. Also, the bulbs are cheap but what does the resistor cost? Or overall price in general?

[greene08]

I'm very interested in the write up. I just dont want to start cutting wires under my trunk w/o pictures of you doing it first. Also, the bulbs are cheap but what does the resistor cost? Or overall price in general?

The 25watt equalizer I bought was $4.99 + shipping. In total the project was less than $25.

[UGwagen]

check out this thread.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2933494