searched, but no luck. Need help...BT and BAT

[apexslider]

Here's what's pretty much decided...stock pistons, IE rods, AEB head w/ ferrea springs, new fastners top and bottom, 034's equal length mani, GT3076 - A/R still being decided, and a 3"maf.

The questions are, what is a good high rev cam setup that is streetable, what size injectors, and what software.

I've tried searching but I couldn't really find what I was looking for...

[Tgr_Clw]

Damn. You don't waste any time with this car.

Good luck.

[B6Lovin]

you might want to contact someone with unitronic and talk to them about getting a custom tune... it'll be $$$ - but it should also run REALLY well. (better than the revo seems to be doing with BAT setups anyways)

not to say REVO is running badly - i just know shawn is having some issues getting the power out of it that he'd like to have.. stand alone is another option.

as far as cams - did you try searching JUST the term cams? there isn't a ton of discussion on it... you might try searching individual posts as opposed to for entire threads (because im fairly sure that info is buried deep in some pretty long threads... COUGH 3071 build thread COUGH COUGH)

[sean1.8t]

not to say REVO is running badly - i just know shawn is having some issues getting the power out of it that he'd like to have.. stand alone is another option.

the reason why Shawn is having "some issues", is due to him having a 28 file from revo. and just doiing minor tweaks to the software and hardware..

if he had Revo's 30r file, he'd probably be doing much better..

if it were me, i'd call up unitronic and price out a 3071r file with an 8500rpm redline and compare it with how much the Rev 8500rpm 30r file is. but that's just me. and decide from those(pricing not being the end all be all of factors in this)

[dubenvy]

unitronics is the only way you can go...IIRC. Revo does work with a 3076r but Unitronics is getting more success with the BAT crowd.

EDIT...for REVO...i was thinking about VW instead of Audi. My bad.

[dubenvy]

I know it's a B5 but goody6691 has a 2.0L with a 3076r, iirc. PM him and see what he did.

[dougyfresh]

You are going to use the AMU pistons?

[k0mpresd]

i have cat camshafts, aeb head, gt30r .63, and custom me7 tune ...good choice on your set up

[apexslider]

You are going to use the AMU pistons?

From what I've been reading the AMU's arent a bad piston for what I'm wanting to do. I haven't really seen a lot of failure with the proper tune. Plus I rather not spend the money on factory size drop in pistons. I know the biggest concern comes from the 19mm pin, but again, I'm not looking for 500awhp. I just want a fun little street/track car

[apexslider]

i have cat camshafts, aeb head, gt30r .63, and custom me7 tune ...good choice on your set up

whats the specs on your cams?

[A4ringedONE8T]

For Cam's, Cat 3658's or 3652's, Im most like going with 3658's, I believe thats what Chris (DirtyBrd) just got as well. 3652's are known to have great upper end but lack a bit in the 4-5k range

There is NOT a REVO 30R file yet, so Im not sure how that could be my downfall

Unitronic can do whatever you would like for a file, plan on spending $899 for the software alone

Get the .82 A/R, the spool is difference between it and the .63 is less than 100rpm yet the upper end is WAY better when reving past 7k. That is unless of course you want to go with one of Mike's new TS setup's he is working on, in that case it would be .78 A/R IIRC and earlier spool than even the smallest A/R

Replace the motor hardware with OEM, no reason to waste money on ARP head bolts or any of that. The OEM bolts are perfect for the amount of power we are looking to make. The IE rods come with ARP bolts, thats the only place they are needed.

If your getting an AEB head, definitely consider a large port intake manifold with a larger TB (VR6 - 3" or R32 - 3.25").

While everyone gave me shit for it, I highly recommend and piping size change on the IC, 2.5" on the charge side and 3" on the TB side gave me a drastic increase in torque and gave a few hundred RPM earlier spool

For injectors, 550's are going to max out around 425awhp with meth, a bit less without. 660's should get you in the upper 400's, close to 500 with meth

Hope that helps

[A4ringedONE8T]

Different pistons arent needed, plenty of VW guys running drop in IE rods on 19mm pin pushing over 500whp and a TON in the upper 400 range

[dougyfresh]

From what I've been reading the AMU's arent a bad piston for what I'm wanting to do. I haven't really seen a lot of failure with the proper tune. Plus I rather not spend the money on factory size drop in pistons. I know the biggest concern comes from the 19mm pin, but again, I'm not looking for 500awhp. I just want a fun little street/track car

You will be fine with the AMU pistons and IE 19mm rods. IE rods have proven successful and the AMU pistons are forged and strong.

I will caution you, however, that I've been told one can get only get OE piston rings for the AMU pistons, and they are not inexpensive. That was from one source and I never priced out comparisons.

Regardless, I would not re-use the piston rings that are in whichever motor you take apart. You're going to want a hone and new piston rings if you're going through the trouble to build a new motor.

Talk to Shawn@1552 or Issam@034 about AMU piston rings to get a good idea on cost. I never spoke to either about the cost of AMU rings because I already decided 2.0L by that point in time. Both great people and have great customer service.

[A4ringedONE8T]

AMU pistons use a 20mm wrist pin And thanks for recommending me!

[dougyfresh]

AMU pistons use a 20mm wrist pin And thanks for recommending me!

20mm Really?

I guess I forgot. I'll measure my pistons when I get home tonight. They are sitting in a box in my basement (and for sale).

[actlsub9]

There is NOT a REVO 30R file yet, so Im not sure how that could be my downfall

lol, I'm not going to go look for quotes, but didnt you already agreed that there was a Revo file but you didn't want to pay for an entire reflash?

[k0mpresd]

20mm Really?

I guess I forgot. I'll measure my pistons when I get home tonight. They are sitting in a box in my basement (and for sale).

yes...20mm and they are lower compression than most other engine codes as well

[dougyfresh]

yes...20mm and they are lower compression than most other engine codes as well

More incentive for me to sell mine then.

CR is 9.0:1, I believe, but they've been tested to be lower (in the 8.6:1 range).

[A4ringedONE8T]

lol, I'm not going to go look for quotes, but didnt you already agreed that there was a Revo file but you didn't want to pay for an entire reflash?

I won't pay for a different flash, my next tuning will be SEM. REVO (David @ Ecode) is working on a 30R file with Mike but it is not available yet.

[[email protected]]

I'd also recommend upgrading at least your exhaust valves and springs.

Even though people say the stock head is fine up to 7500rpm, either I am having some major bad luck with my build, but I was able to burn or bend an exhaust valve in cylinder 4 when pushing the car to 26psi during testing 2 weeks ago.

[Don Supreme]

^ really??? dammit... I told you be careful @ 26psi on pump, but yeah - Upgrade the exhaust valves while you are at it.

[[email protected]]

When we set the EBC to 26psi the first time it was fine. Took a rip the second time I got a rattle so we backed off and VAG'd the car. I threw some codes one of which was for the cam chain tensioner.

We replaced the CCT with a spare from my old head and I still had the rattle. Replaced all of the lifters and I still had the rattle. Yesterday my guys did a leakdown test and cylinder 4 was losing 30% and air was coming out the exhaust.

Our guess is when the tensioner failed a valve must of gotten damaged by kissing the cylinder at the same time since we were boosting so much and running such high RPM.

I'm just pissed off that this happened as I only replaced the head 6 months ago. If I only knew what I know now back then.

[dougyfresh]

The exhaust valves are the first to go. The OE ones aren't cheap (almost $100 a piece if I recall) but I recommend SuperTech valves. Cheaper and better (they are Inconel).

[[email protected]]

Well a bunch of you guys did warn me and I chose to believe that I'd be fine and this is where I am now.

Head is coming off in the next couple of days to check for seat damage. So my question is what happens if there is some from the valve hitting it?

[dougyfresh]

Damage to the piston? If its minimal, just deburr and you'll be alright. I know of a 800awhp+ S4 with deburred piston tops because of valve clashing. Pistons are good, heads are rebuilt and its still pushing!

Otherwise new pistons.

[[email protected]]

Well my JE's have those valve cuts machined into them so I'm hoping that helped save the piston from any damage.

I was more concerned about a damaged valve seat but I just found out that they are a replaceable part.

[dougyfresh]

Yeah. Valve seats and guides are replaceable. You want OE guides and seats. A bitch to swap out but 10x worth it than aftermarket stuff.

[Don Supreme]

Well a bunch of you guys did warn me and I chose to believe that I'd be fine and this is where I am now.

Head is coming off in the next couple of days to check for seat damage. So my question is what happens if there is some from the valve hitting it?

Tensioner huh? I wonder if the valve just floated due to weak OEM springs @ high rpm.

That sucks dude. I fear this kind of crap too.

[Don Supreme]

Yeah. Valve seats and guides are replaceable. You want OE guides and seats. A bitch to swap out but 10x worth it than aftermarket stuff.

SuperTech/QED Performance1.8T Valve guides are here

I've always been frustrated by the unavailability of good valve guides for the 1.8T. 99% of the aftermarket guides are too large on the OD which makes fitting difficult- it is possible to force them in, but the very tight press fit means the ID of the guide is distorted.

QED commissioned SuperTech to produce a guide to my specs which fits properly. In addition, they are made from the superior material manganese bronze which transfers heat better and is more wear resistant. QED purchased a very large quantity so the price is very reasonable.

$5.99 each
$45.99 set of 8
$109 set of 20

[mtbrider]

I really want to build my head up

[apexslider]

SuperTech/QED Performance1.8T Valve guides are here

I've always been frustrated by the unavailability of good valve guides for the 1.8T. 99% of the aftermarket guides are too large on the OD which makes fitting difficult- it is possible to force them in, but the very tight press fit means the ID of the guide is distorted.

QED commissioned SuperTech to produce a guide to my specs which fits properly. In addition, they are made from the superior material manganese bronze which transfers heat better and is more wear resistant. QED purchased a very large quantity so the price is very reasonable.

$5.99 each
$45.99 set of 8
$109 set of 20

looks like I'll have to place an order. The only places I'm really worried about are the head and rods. If I decide to go GT35 then I'll get new pistons...but the budget isn't THAT big!

[dougyfresh]

SuperTech/QED Performance1.8T Valve guides are here

I've always been frustrated by the unavailability of good valve guides for the 1.8T. 99% of the aftermarket guides are too large on the OD which makes fitting difficult- it is possible to force them in, but the very tight press fit means the ID of the guide is distorted.

QED commissioned SuperTech to produce a guide to my specs which fits properly. In addition, they are made from the superior material manganese bronze which transfers heat better and is more wear resistant. QED purchased a very large quantity so the price is very reasonable.

$5.99 each
$45.99 set of 8
$109 set of 20

Guess I was thinking of Bob's valve guides when I made my statement. I didn't realize they were SuperTech. I thought they were OEM. I do know the guides he has are the way to go. If my head needs guides those are the ones going in, along with SuperTech exhaust valves. We'll know in a week or two. I'm dropping my AMU head off to him next week.

looks like I'll have to place an order. The only places I'm really worried about are the head and rods. If I decide to go GT35 then I'll get new pistons...but the budget isn't THAT big!

Plan ahead to figure out what you ultimately want. Then plan your build accordingly. Better to do it right the first time. Esp if you've got the whole motor apart.

[[email protected]]

SuperTech/QED Performance1.8T Valve guides are here

I've always been frustrated by the unavailability of good valve guides for the 1.8T. 99% of the aftermarket guides are too large on the OD which makes fitting difficult- it is possible to force them in, but the very tight press fit means the ID of the guide is distorted.

QED commissioned SuperTech to produce a guide to my specs which fits properly. In addition, they are made from the superior material manganese bronze which transfers heat better and is more wear resistant. QED purchased a very large quantity so the price is very reasonable.

$5.99 each
$45.99 set of 8
$109 set of 20

If the OEM guides are in great shape is there need to upgrade to these Supertech ones?

[dougyfresh]

If the OEM guides are in great shape is there need to upgrade to these Supertech ones?

Correct.

And 'great shape' will be defined as in tolerance between the guide and valve stem. 1.9 mils (0.0019inch) on the dia is factory, I think (double-check that number). Pay attention to the valve guide ID (near the combustion chamber).

[317ssayzarc]

Talk to Shawn@1552 or Issam@034 about AMU piston rings

not me?

and how did you know about those valve guides?

[dougyfresh]

not me?

and how did you know about those valve guides?

Did I misread? I thought you can't get parts.

I know of these guides thanks to you (late plug)

[317ssayzarc]

Did I misread? I thought you can't get parts.

I know of these guides thanks to you (late plug)

writing you a pm

[apexslider]

Plan ahead to figure out what you ultimately want. Then plan your build accordingly. Better to do it right the first time. Esp if you've got the whole motor apart.

Originally I was going to be happy with a GT71R elim kit...but by the time I realized what a nightmare it was going to be it was too late. So the new goal is to keep as much of the motor in the car as possible, but increase the power output....more. Ultimately I'd like to see as close to 400awhp as possible, without getting to custom, and I'd like it to last. I wouldn't run it that high daily, but I'm sure I wouldn't run it under 300awhp either. I'm not looking to set any standard or come up with a new set up, I just want to run proven components in a combination that will net me the biggest smile on my face. I dont have the budget to be a ground breaker in the B6 world, I just wanna haul as much ass as possible.