Blown motor/PES g3 (ECU advice/education needed)

[nimski62]

Since ppl are obviously tired of my other thread, talking about wheel sales and such, I decided to post a new thread with some new information from my mechanic and some of my own observations.

See when I got this first installed, I noticed this and shortly after my dad noticed too, but my dad noticed it the first time he drove this.
Mechanic said that the loss of compression in cyl 1 is due to valves bending, so we can automatically rule out that it wasn't getting enough fuel and was running lean. They said the motor was overrevved.. And I can believe this because when I first went wot, the rpm needle went over the redline(about 400 and so I got scared and let off and it finally shifted. And I just thought Pes made the redline a little bit higher (even my mechanic said this is probably the case) so I didn't think much of it and continued to drive it.) and so my dad also let his foot off when he noticed the rpms going over redline, and asked me if that was supposed to happen and I said what my mechanic told me and I told him it would have eventually shifted(not really knowing if it wouldve or not) still continued to drive it not thinking of the potential problem. So then the third time the car went wot is when it bent a valve.

I'm thinking that I didn't pay attention to the speedo.. Bc my windows were open and I was in drive and I was racing. (yes I know my fault) I'm guessing the car overrevved a Hella lot with me not paying attn to the tach

Hugo at pes thinks also I overrevved.. But he's sayng that's my fault.. And I know for a fact that my car in d,s, or tip did not let the car go past redline before the ecu flash. Now, you guys tell me if in any situation the stock ecu would let the car over rev.. Bc Hugo is saying when they tweak the ecu its only air and fuel values, not the rev limiter

[nimski62]

edit bottom line is their ecu sw, no matter how tuned shouuldnt let the car go over redline

[NiveK1970]

ALL sw providers raise the rev limiter, that is the only way they get any actual extra HP out of the car so they can make their claims... not saying that the software doesn't help streamline the torq curv and add some down low HP but thats the reality, Upgrade at your own risk, no two engines are gonna react the same way, even if they came off the assembly line right after each other...

[nimski62]

Yea but Hugo@pes is saying they don't even 'touch this portion of the ecu sw'

[NiveK1970]

yes but, i say i have a 15"... ;) and of course saying it doesn't make it true unfortunatly, just ask my wife ;)

[NiveK1970]

and I'm not so sure, but i don't think its that unusual for a car to go over red-line when it's letting go or "giving up the ghost"

[nimski62]

i just wnna know if the S/C guys like Dpatel, and skeeball and whoevers car lets them go over redline... i know for a fact tht this cant be an installation error, it HAS to be the ecu flash that would even LET the needle go over red

[Audii-Dudii]

i just wnna know if the S/C guys like Dpatel, and skeeball and whoevers car lets them go over redline... i know for a fact tht this cant be an installation error, it HAS to be the ecu flash that would even LET the needle go over red

Not necessarily ... in another thread, you wrote that the car was a lemon-law buy-back and was throwing a CEL no one could diagnose when you bought it. In view of this, it doesn't seem too far-fetched that the tach wasn't accurate or working properly or that some other fault allowed the car to over-rev...

That said, when you get it apart, I'll bet you find a broken piston...

[nimski62]

man you gotta realize it was lemoned for the most stupid reason ever.. the dealer HAD to do it by LAW.. seriously that car was in absolutely perfect health, checked out by audi. because it went there for a recall.. even after it was pronounced lemon

[nimski62]

Not necessarily ... in another thread, you wrote that the car was a lemon-law buy-back and was throwing a CEL no one could diagnose when you bought it. In view of this, it doesn't seem too far-fetched that the tach wasn't accurate or working properly or that some other fault allowed the car to over-rev...

That said, when you get it apart, I'll bet you find a broken piston...

yes it does seem far fetched.. bc the cel was diagnosed and repaird at AUDI for 1k. i told you this

[Splattj]

How did your mechanic determine it was a valve?
I've been driving and modifying turbocharged cars for over 10 years and I've seen all sorts of failures. A lean condition during a sustained WOT state can burn a valve or a piston.
You won't know what happened until you pull the head.

Next, did your mechanic find out why there's oil all over your engine bay?
That might also lend some clues as to what happened.

There is some chance that you experienced valve float and nicked a valve but you'd probably hear some terrible noise when you ran the motor if that's the case.

All things considered, I'm still going with a burnt valve or piston.

[Splattj]

Oh, and a couple questions about the PES kit.

1. does it come with a rising rate FPR?
2. does it replace the 3.0 fuel pump? If not, does anybody know the flow rate for the stock pump?
3. do the instructions clearly state that there's a learning period for the ECU?

[Ill 3.0]

considering that the other G3'd 3.0s which had problems were due to burnt pistons, I think that's also very likely. if the head and sc are both still ok, you'd be in a good position to just put in a built short block and then go to town.

[koolade9]

Can we start a poll to vote on what we think the problem is...(i.e. hole in piston, burnt ring, bent valve, mychevious badger, etc...) Then certain folks can gloat when it turns out their prognosis was correct.

May wanna take this discussion to the scaudi guys as well...

[nimski62]

Oh, and a couple questions about the PES kit.

1. does it come with a rising rate FPR?
2. does it replace the 3.0 fuel pump? If not, does anybody know the flow rate for the stock pump?
3. do the instructions clearly state that there's a learning period for the ECU?

1. 3 bar fpr.. i read it when i was looking for the oil leak (real mechanic is out of town, so my american car mechanic did the compression test for me and waiting on my german mechanic)

2. No, stock FP

3. No instructions do not state shit. neither Hugo@pes is willign to admit shit. I OVERREVED THE MOTOR, i am confident i did.. but it shouldnt go over the redline as far as I am concerned.

[audispeed]

i can only speak to the g2 as i do not have a g3, but the g2 has a hard redline at 6750. stock fpr in the 2.8 is rising rate (that's why there is a vac line hooked up to it).

yes, the instructions should say something. i agree with you there. but, common sense would dictate that you do not go out and immediately beat on a car with an engine that is now highly modified without checking things over first.

finally, didnt you say the timing was off in the car? timing off a little and a couple of frolics near redline could very well equal a piston introducing itself to a valve. that said, i think there is more than just valve damage here.

[ladedruck]

there is the fact that the 3.0 engine is prone to the cam adjuster coming apart even in stock form. I have seen it twice. It will blow the solenoids off and oil gos everywhere. Cam timing may or may not go so bad as to bend valves. I would bet the 3.0 doesn't do well at all with raising the rev limiter.

[nimski62]

there is the fact that the 3.0 engine is prone to the cam adjuster coming apart even in stock form. I have seen it twice. It will blow the solenoids off and oil gos everywhere. Cam timing may or may not go so bad as to bend valves. I would bet the 3.0 doesn't do well at all with raising the rev limiter.

This was the problem when i first bought the car @ 40,000 miles.(Flashing cel) fixed. no problems. car was at 60,000 running super healthy before the s.c

[nimski62]

i can only speak to the g2 as i do not have a g3, but the g2 has a hard redline at 6750. stock fpr in the 2.8 is rising rate (that's why there is a vac line hooked up to it).

yes, the instructions should say something. i agree with you there. but, common sense would dictate that you do not go out and immediately beat on a car with an engine that is now highly modified without checking things over first.

finally, didnt you say the timing was off in the car? timing off a little and a couple of frolics near redline could very well equal a piston introducing itself to a valve. that said, i think there is more than just valve damage here.

So once again here PES is lying to me saying they dont touch rev parameters in the ecu. they suck so bad, and no timing was checked for perfection before install.

[skeeball]

Wow. You have shown yourself to be wealth of accurate information. First the car was pinging, but now it wasn't running lean? I've taken my car for 30 some odd 1/4 mile passes and a year later (1.5 since install) and it's still running fine. I've banged the rev limiter at least that many times.

Do I think Tony's tune is shit? Yes. But it shouldn't blow engines within days of installation. The ME-Motronic can make some amazing adaptations. That is of course unless you don't give it any time to.

I think this pretty much sums it up:

but, common sense would dictate that you do not go out and immediately beat on a car with an engine that is now highly modified without checking things over first.

[B6Lovin]

seriously man, i'll give you props for being the most stubborn idiot on the boards...

my new questions to you are these: (and please let me know if i get some of this story wrong - it's been a long series of threads - i'll adjust my questions accordingly)

1) the order of events as i recall them are: you place an order with PES (might as well be POS according to some members) and had some initial confusion about whether or not you were running a 4bar file, and whether or not you have a 4bar FPR. (i never saw any concrete evidence one way or the other) you put the s/c on the car -- noting that the car was (according to you) fine before install and your car was fine after install (generally speaking - you said the installation itself went flawlessly)... you took it wide open at high speeds on the highway once (i believe you said 15miles after install) and got pinging.. you never figured out why, never logged, and kept driving it hard when advised not to because of the adaptation time needed AND the fact that people (and your engine) TOLD YOU THAT YOUR TUNE WAS BAD! but you took it for another few highway pulls and then boom -- and here we are... right?

2) you say that you over revved the car but its not your fault.. the ONLY way that you could have over-revved doing highway pulls like that would be for you to downshift to some ridiculous gearing and punch it. one problem - your car is a TIP, I wouldn't think that A) the transmission would stand up to the kind of abuse when you said it was already slipping on shifts and B) I wasn't aware that the TIP tranny would let you downshift to right at/past redline anyways. with that being said -- how do you figure you revved past stock redline without 1) seeing it on the tach? and 2) on a transmission which WILL (to my knowledge) shift itself at a certain point - regardless of the fact that it's in TIP mode.

***my understanding of how a tiptronic transmission works is that you "shift" without a clutch - however the car will not indefinitely hold a gear should you decided not to, or, forget to shift (like a manual tranny). My friend's bimmer shifts itself after a certain point - we know this from trying (and failing) to do donuts in it. (please somebody correct me on that if i'm totally off-base, i realize an audi and bmw are two totally different machines... but TIP trannys seem to be pretty... *ahem* standardized)

3) after reading over 10 pages worth of threads where you stated your concerns about blowing up your motor - where people told you that you were going to blow up your motor - where you DID blow up your motor - and where you refuse to take responsibility for blowing up your motor (see previous link and above posts) ---- i find it very odd that you are STILL refusing to listen to the experience of people here, and instead you are looking for the cheapest way out. people with that mindset will always destroy their cars in one way or another, and will never learn anything. so tell me -- do you have that mindset? or are you just being thick headed for some unknown reason? That's an honest question - and depending on the answer, we may or may not have to collectively stop trying to help you.. so far I see no reason to continue trying to talk some sense into you, because you have proven time and time again that you just won't take the steps necessary to making things better. (i mean.. come on - saying that it's the software's fault you over-revved? that's the dumbest thing i've ever heard... your foot is ultimately what controls the speed of the engine, and no software can correct the problem of a dim-witted driver.)

4) you were advised time and time again pre-install, during install, and after your initial problems that PES doesn't know a cock from a vag when it comes to tuning or writing software. yet you continued to call and deal with them as opposed to listen to people like skeeball, craigo, ill 3.0, dummptyhummpty, etc etc etc, WHO KNOW WHAT THE HELL THEY'RE TALKING ABOUT! what led you that decision?

and finally 5) considering all of the above -- are you really so surprised that your shit blew up? I'm even ignoring the fact that it was lemoned and that it had previous timing/fueling issues which apparently almost resulted in what one might call "catastrophic engine failure". and i'm only ignoring those facts based upon good faith that those problems were indeed corrected and the engine was running as well as you say it was before the s/c. also - you haven't even had a proper diagnosis of your problem now!

the big thing you need to worry about from now on should you decide to keep this car is doing your shit right. get a vag-com, learn to use it. PLEASE BY ALL MEANS ASK PEOPLE HERE AND ELSEWHERE FOR HELP! You just have to be ready to TAKE, LISTEN, and FOLLOW that advice. There is a time to be a pioneer and do your own thing - but when you're having serious problems with a setup you aren't all too familiar with is not that time. I really honest to god want you to stick around and learn - the people here (for the most part) would love to help you, have you be a part of the community, and enjoy adding your experiences and tastes to the rapidly swelling wealth of information available to us. (something which generations before us could have never even dreamed about.) myself included. I don't know much about the 3.0 - or supercharging it for that matter - but i do know how cars work, and i have learned the value of common sense... I've had my share of broken and breaking cars, it sucks, and blaming others is easy... manning up, and stabbing your wallet in the back is hard. (but when you start to learn new things, it becomes fun -- and ends up an addiction which we all share here)

i've been ranting for awhile now -- but this topic is 4 threads and multiple pages thick now... and it's time for it to come to a screeching halt while we hit at the base issues, THEN we will deal with getting your car fixed and getting you back out on the road.

best of luck with things, and dont hesitate to ask... but ask with a closed mouth and open ears - it's the best lesson i ever learned, and i hope you can understand/appreciate that.

(we flame because we care hahahaha)

[sadpandas]

***my understanding of how a tiptronic transmission works is that you "shift" without a clutch - however the car will not indefinitely hold a gear should you decided not to, or, forget to shift (like a manual tranny). My friend's bimmer shifts itself after a certain point - we know this from trying (and failing) to do donuts in it. (please somebody correct me on that if i'm totally off-base, i realize an audi and bmw are two totally different machines... but TIP trannys seem to be pretty... *ahem* standardized)

Yes, you are correct. No matter how 'hard i slam my foot through the floor board (which i don't ;)) when the car gets to red line in TIP it will shift. Pretty nice feature for those of forgot about clutches and such.

As for your novela of a response; i agree %100.

Love,
pandas

[nimski62]

seriously man, i'll give you props for being the most stubborn idiot on the boards...

my new questions to you are these: (and please let me know if i get some of this story wrong - it's been a long series of threads - i'll adjust my questions accordingly)

1) the order of events as i recall them are: you place an order with PES (might as well be POS according to some members) and had some initial confusion about whether or not you were running a 4bar file, and whether or not you have a 4bar FPR. (i never saw any concrete evidence one way or the other) you put the s/c on the car -- noting that the car was (according to you) fine before install and your car was fine after install (generally speaking - you said the installation itself went flawlessly)... you took it wide open at high speeds on the highway once (i believe you said 15miles after install) and got pinging.. you never figured out why, never logged, and kept driving it hard when advised not to because of the adaptation time needed AND the fact that people (and your engine) TOLD YOU THAT YOUR TUNE WAS BAD! but you took it for another few highway pulls and then boom -- and here we are... right?

2) you say that you over revved the car but its not your fault.. the ONLY way that you could have over-revved doing highway pulls like that would be for you to downshift to some ridiculous gearing and punch it. one problem - your car is a TIP, I wouldn't think that A) the transmission would stand up to the kind of abuse when you said it was already slipping on shifts and B) I wasn't aware that the TIP tranny would let you downshift to right at/past redline anyways. with that being said -- how do you figure you revved past stock redline without 1) seeing it on the tach? and 2) on a transmission which WILL (to my knowledge) shift itself at a certain point - regardless of the fact that it's in TIP mode.

***my understanding of how a tiptronic transmission works is that you "shift" without a clutch - however the car will not indefinitely hold a gear should you decided not to, or, forget to shift (like a manual tranny). My friend's bimmer shifts itself after a certain point - we know this from trying (and failing) to do donuts in it. (please somebody correct me on that if i'm totally off-base, i realize an audi and bmw are two totally different machines... but TIP trannys seem to be pretty... *ahem* standardized)

3) after reading over 10 pages worth of threads where you stated your concerns about blowing up your motor - where people told you that you were going to blow up your motor - where you DID blow up your motor - and where you refuse to take responsibility for blowing up your motor (see previous link and above posts) ---- i find it very odd that you are STILL refusing to listen to the experience of people here, and instead you are looking for the cheapest way out. people with that mindset will always destroy their cars in one way or another, and will never learn anything. so tell me -- do you have that mindset? or are you just being thick headed for some unknown reason? That's an honest question - and depending on the answer, we may or may not have to collectively stop trying to help you.. so far I see no reason to continue trying to talk some sense into you, because you have proven time and time again that you just won't take the steps necessary to making things better. (i mean.. come on - saying that it's the software's fault you over-revved? that's the dumbest thing i've ever heard... your foot is ultimately what controls the speed of the engine, and no software can correct the problem of a dim-witted driver.)

4) you were advised time and time again pre-install, during install, and after your initial problems that PES doesn't know a cock from a vag when it comes to tuning or writing software. yet you continued to call and deal with them as opposed to listen to people like skeeball, craigo, ill 3.0, dummptyhummpty, etc etc etc, WHO KNOW WHAT THE HELL THEY'RE TALKING ABOUT! what led you that decision?

and finally 5) considering all of the above -- are you really so surprised that your shit blew up? I'm even ignoring the fact that it was lemoned and that it had previous timing/fueling issues which apparently almost resulted in what one might call "catastrophic engine failure". and i'm only ignoring those facts based upon good faith that those problems were indeed corrected and the engine was running as well as you say it was before the s/c. also - you haven't even had a proper diagnosis of your problem now!

the big thing you need to worry about from now on should you decide to keep this car is doing your shit right. get a vag-com, learn to use it. PLEASE BY ALL MEANS ASK PEOPLE HERE AND ELSEWHERE FOR HELP! You just have to be ready to TAKE, LISTEN, and FOLLOW that advice. There is a time to be a pioneer and do your own thing - but when you're having serious problems with a setup you aren't all too familiar with is not that time. I really honest to god want you to stick around and learn - the people here (for the most part) would love to help you, have you be a part of the community, and enjoy adding your experiences and tastes to the rapidly swelling wealth of information available to us. (something which generations before us could have never even dreamed about.) myself included. I don't know much about the 3.0 - or supercharging it for that matter - but i do know how cars work, and i have learned the value of common sense... I've had my share of broken and breaking cars, it sucks, and blaming others is easy... manning up, and stabbing your wallet in the back is hard. (but when you start to learn new things, it becomes fun -- and ends up an addiction which we all share here)

i've been ranting for awhile now -- but this topic is 4 threads and multiple pages thick now... and it's time for it to come to a screeching halt while we hit at the base issues, THEN we will deal with getting your car fixed and getting you back out on the road.

best of luck with things, and dont hesitate to ask... but ask with a closed mouth and open ears - it's the best lesson i ever learned, and i hope you can understand/appreciate that.

(we flame because we care hahahaha)

Yeah but dude do YOU not read? I told you after my ECU got flashed.. PRIOR TO THE ECU FLASHING, when I mashed the accelereator, it shifted at redline. If I was in TIP mode, it shifted at redline. If i floored it in neutral, it freaking stopped reving at REDLINE.

Here we are. now. car has it s.c installed. i floor it. IT CONTINUES TO GO OVER REDLINE until i let my foot off the accelerator. I LET MY FOOT OFF the accelerator everytime because I was scared it woulndt stop going. i NEVER let it continue to do that.. that is until the last time I floored the car(in Drive) that I forgot about this 'problem' I was in the heat of things. windows open. forgetting to look at my tach (shoot me for forgetting my auto may not shift at redline).

From the last time I heard, cars shift at redline, unless their ECU software tells them otherwise.

EVEN IF YOU HAVE A MANUAL, it stopps revving.. once you hit the redline, hence the fricckin rev limiter.

I am trying to explain to you guys.. that if i went over my rev limiter, because of bad software, messed up software, accidental flashing, tweaking wrong values in teh ECU, BY PES, WHOM WE KNOW TO DO SUCH THINGS, THEN this is a different story all together.

If my car was running lean, I would've got a code. If my car was running rich, I would've got a code.. DO YOU KNOW WHAT MY VAG-COM said?

Engine over-reved. thats what it said. I now have a cyl 1 missfire, with a prior engine over-rev code. you know what happens when you overrev an engine. and thats what i think happened.

My mechanic is OUT OF TOWN on VACATION and this other mechanic wont touch forign cars.

My car stopped slipping on shifts. The tranny computer adapted well. fyi.

YOUR understanding of how a tip tranny works if perfectly correct. Its how any tranny works. Even bimmer trannys. My mercedes e430 tranny however goes to redline, and starts occilating (still not letting it go over redline) whereas teh tip tranny shifts for you@ red. j
just please try to understand what im trying to tell you.. the car DIDNT SHIFT. EVEN if it didnt shift, it should still have a rev.limiter

[nimski62]

Yes, you are correct. No matter how 'hard i slam my foot through the floor board (which i don't ;)) when the car gets to red line in TIP it will shift. Pretty nice feature for those of forgot about clutches and such.

As for your novela of a response; i agree %100.

Love,
pandas

Exactly what im trying to say. I pushed my foot down, and it used to shift at redline perfectly. Ecu comes back, s/c gets installed.. it stops doing that.

[Ill 3.0]

Your car can absolutely run rich or lean without throwing codes. Also, unless I missed something, this is the first time you mentioned your VAG-COM showed over-rev codes. I was under the impression you only suspected over-reving because you remember looking at the tach while driving. But as you mentioned, you won't know for sure until someone has a look at your engine.

[skeeball]

If my car was running lean, I would've got a code. If my car was running rich, I would've got a code..

No you wouldn't. The engine can easily run lean enough to melt a piston without ever throwing a lean code.

DO YOU KNOW WHAT MY VAG-COM said?

Engine over-reved. thats what it said. I now have a cyl 1 missfire, with a prior engine over-rev code. you know what happens when you overrev an engine. and thats what i think happened.

Please do tell us what number the DTC is for over-rev.

[nimski62]

Yes i will post as soon as I get to the car this evening. Sorry for not being clearer on the over rev situation.

[nimski62]

17968 P1560 Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded. Warranty Void ;)

^What it says.

[nimski62]

Funny thing is PES hasnt told me one thing about adaptation. They told me to check my fuel trims and thats about it. Theyre now saying its all my fault that my tiptronic car over reved. The only way i say this could be my fault is if I had a manual and i shifted from 5 to 2 going 60mph. that would over rev the engine, limiter couldnt do shit. but the fact that i have a tip, and wasnt downshifting is what irks me with the over-rev code.

tommorow i should find out because the mechanic is going to stick a barroscope down cyl 1 to see whats damaged.

[nimski62]

seriously man, i'll give you props for being the most stubborn idiot on the boards...

I honestly do thank you for taking the time to post that.. its seriously the longest thread I have ever read directed towards me lol. anyways dude thanks for your help.. its just that I dont think the tune is at fault here. me, yes for pushing the car but I also think PES should take into consideration a few things. Im out 3600 for the s.c and now 2000 possibly for a new head unless I decide to sell the car. . I guess its hard to fathom a car learns and it takes time, but seriously over-reving can happen if the ECU is set without a rev limiter.. but thank you for explaining to me and hopefully I can do a thing or two right modding cars in my later years.

B

[dougyfresh]

Who wants popcorn? This is a fun read!






Like I mentioned in your other thread.... A leak-down test will further help determine if the problem is a valve or piston/ring. Then again, you might as well just pull the heads anyway. Not worth a leak-down test given the high likelyhood of a lean condition at WOT.

[nimski62]

aww come on no 1.8t ecu flashers know anything?

[B6Lovin]

Yeah but dude do YOU not read? I told you after my ECU got flashed.. PRIOR TO THE ECU FLASHING, when I mashed the accelereator, it shifted at redline. If I was in TIP mode, it shifted at redline. If i floored it in neutral, it freaking stopped reving at REDLINE.

i get that - and im glad that we agree on the facts there. moving on.

Here we are. now. car has it s.c installed. i floor it. IT CONTINUES TO GO OVER REDLINE until i let my foot off the accelerator. I LET MY FOOT OFF the accelerator everytime because I was scared it woulndt stop going. i NEVER let it continue to do that.. that is until the last time I floored the car(in Drive) that I forgot about this 'problem' I was in the heat of things. windows open. forgetting to look at my tach (shoot me for forgetting my auto may not shift at redline).

From the last time I heard, cars shift at redline, unless their ECU software tells them otherwise.

EVEN IF YOU HAVE A MANUAL, it stopps revving.. once you hit the redline, hence the fricckin rev limiter.

I am trying to explain to you guys.. that if i went over my rev limiter, because of bad software, messed up software, accidental flashing, tweaking wrong values in teh ECU, BY PES, WHOM WE KNOW TO DO SUCH THINGS, THEN this is a different story all together.

Like i said above - we both agree that normally the car will protect itself from over-revving where you can float valves, see excessive temperatures, and exaggerated lean conditions. that's the purpose of a rev limiter (as well as protecting pieces of the transmission... my 3rd gear has always been picky about high rpm shifts, and i wouldnt want to try shifting to 3rd above 6k, but that's neither here nor there)

ANYWAYS - It is very common for modified ecu's, flash programs, solder in chips, stand-alones, etc etc etc to move, modify, or totally remove the rev-limiter. You found this out through your initial driving - and took steps to avoid over-revving the engine. that is good.

but your moment of not paying attention, or whatever happened -- when you get down to it -- is still your fault. PES can't be held liable for that. that's like saying that a suspension company is liable if you get into an accident because you stopped paying attention for a second and your car drifts into the other lane (because you haven't had an alignment yet or something of that nature). While it's possible to say that your car only drifted because you modified it -- YOU MODIFIED IT, and YOU were the one driving. It sucks, but that's life, and i wouldn't expect even a reputable company with even the best customer service to accept responsibility in a case like this.

If my car was running lean, I would've got a code. If my car was running rich, I would've got a code.. DO YOU KNOW WHAT MY VAG-COM said?

Engine over-reved. thats what it said. I now have a cyl 1 missfire, with a prior engine over-rev code. you know what happens when you overrev an engine. and thats what i think happened.

My mechanic is OUT OF TOWN on VACATION and this other mechanic wont touch forign cars.

I get that you never pulled a lean or rich code - but over-revving does NOT explain a flashing CEL (the misfire does in part). This is going to sound painfully obvious... but if you're ONLY seeing a cyl 1 misfire -- have you bothered to check the coilpack and spark plug on cyl 1? if you over-revved, got lean, and temps got high you might have f***ked a spark plug or CP. clean up the oil while you're at it with a good engine bay degreaser, old scrub brush, and a hose... that way you can see where it keeps coming from.

basic idea is to knock out the cheap stuff first

as for the mechanic situation - atleast he's honest enough to not mess with a car he's not familiar with... a lot of mechanics would have tried anyways jsut to get the extra cash. let us know what the other guy says when he gets back in town.

My car stopped slipping on shifts. The tranny computer adapted well. fyi.

that's good - im sure a lot of other TIP owners are happy to know about that. (i hear the level10 stuff is pretty damn expensive)

YOUR understanding of how a tip tranny works if perfectly correct. Its how any tranny works. Even bimmer trannys. My mercedes e430 tranny however goes to redline, and starts occilating (still not letting it go over redline) whereas teh tip tranny shifts for you@ red. j
just please try to understand what im trying to tell you.. the car DIDNT SHIFT. EVEN if it didnt shift, it should still have a rev.limiter

glad i got that right -- i've never had a car that wasnt a stick, so i wasnt sure hahaha. also, the car probably does have a rev limiter... im sure its just much higher than your engine/tranny could handle going in it's current (mostly stock) form.

[KJIV]

It's very possible the transmission is locking up due to being overloaded and that's why it won't shift. The torque converter hates you.

[skeeball]

aww come on no 1.8t ecu flashers know anything?

What is it you want someone to say?

I encourage you to try and get your money back. I'm guessing from personal experience, that Tony won't give you anything. But beat up on him all you want. He deserves it. I would leave Hugo out of it though, he's a good guy.

In the end, isn't your dad just going to bail you out?

[Mark]

quick question . . but does the tune for the tip also include a new transmission chip map as well?

Reports from Europe indicated high rpm anomolies and random mechanical failures on chipped RS6s when the transmission chip was not addressed as part of the tuning program.

from AWE's site . . . remembered reading it somewhere.

[nimski62]

I get that you never pulled a lean or rich code - but over-revving does NOT explain a flashing CEL (the misfire does in part). This is going to sound painfully obvious... but if you're ONLY seeing a cyl 1 misfire -- have you bothered to check the coilpack and spark plug on cyl 1? if you over-revved, got lean, and temps got high you might have f***ked a spark plug or CP. clean up the oil while you're at it with a good engine bay degreaser, old scrub brush, and a hose... that way you can see where it keeps coming from.

basic idea is to knock out the cheap stuff first

as for the mechanic situation - atleast he's honest enough to not mess with a car he's not familiar with... a lot of mechanics would have tried anyways jsut to get the extra cash. let us know what the other guy says when he gets back in town.



that's good - im sure a lot of other TIP owners are happy to know about that. (i hear the level10 stuff is pretty damn expensive)



glad i got that right -- i've never had a car that wasnt a stick, so i wasnt sure hahaha. also, the car probably does have a rev limiter... im sure its just much higher than your engine/tranny could handle going in it's current (mostly stock) form.

Well first off, if there is 0 psi of compression in cyl 1, its obviously going to missfire.. and thats the whole reason the flashing check engine light came on. It came on when the engine was already done for and cyl 1 had already lost compression.

2nd is that Tony@pes told me not to do the level ten upgrade, because it shifts hard after that. he said he didnt like the feel, and isnt neccesary.

bottom line is, motor needs alot of work to get it functional again.

[dummptyhummpty]

Yea but Hugo@pes is saying they don't even 'touch this portion of the ecu sw'

Well Tony told me that while in Tip, to shift early or the car would over rev. It did this even in D. I don't have time to read this as i'm in class, but i'll read over this thread later. Just thought i'd share.

[KJIV]

first thing you always do when you get a misfire in a cylinder is check spark and fuel... What's odd is if you are still getting clean combustion in the other 5 cylinders... I don't know how you just bend a valve from over revving, if it got tapped by the piston that's one thing...

Also, i don't see where you posted how high you revved the engine. Do you know?

[nimski62]

Well Tony told me that while in Tip, to shift early or the car would over rev. It did this even in D. I don't have time to read this as i'm in class, but i'll read over this thread later. Just thought i'd share.

Yupp they are such big liars. It was in D mode by the way, and i guess it did over rev, but what irks me is that they blame the install when i know it was perfect. and they are not telling me nor have they ever told me what they told you.