TIAL 44mm wastegate (and other BT questions)

[Euro-Tuner]

So I was checking out the specs on my new WG and I was wondering what exactly is the deciding factor and what spring pressure I should go with. Anyone with some experience in this area would be very helpful

...please go to post 13 and chime in on that question!

[Don Supreme]

I run a tial 44mm with 13 psi spring.

[Euro-Tuner]

so why did you chose to go with that spring rate? Large blue one correct?

[bernB5]

it's all preference. if you want to run 20psi and never any less, a 20psi spring will be great.. Some people have surging issues when the run a soft spring (8psi) and try to run higher boost (25+).. usually, if you can, you want to have your spring be as close to your regular and lowest boost pressure.
a 1 bar spring is good (14.3psi) because most people leave a 15psi low boost setting etc..

[mike-2ptzero]

Jon, yours should already have either a .7 or .9 bar spring in it. Pretty sure I ordered a .9 bar spring for you since thats what I ask for every time I order my package setups since thats what most people want if they are running their setup with a N75 valve.


If you plan on running a EBC it doesn't matter what spring you have in the wg, I run a 10psi spring and can push 32psi without a problem.


BTW .9 bar is their highest spring. To get a spring rate higher then that you have to put 1 large spring and 1 small spring but the problem with that is just trying to get the cover back on and to do that you need a big person to stand on it or use a vise.

[Euro-Tuner]

so if I dont plan on running an electronic boost controller what PSi can I boost at with my current setup...honestly I didnt know the WG had anything to do with how much I can boost as far as the cold side is concerned, how does the WG have any effect on the pressure the turbo pushes? I was under the impression that it released pressure from the exhaust manifold. I need some education on the subject.

[mike-2ptzero]

so if I dont plan on running an electronic boost controller what PSi can I boost at with my current setup...honestly I didnt know the WG had anything to do with how much I can boost as far as the cold side is concerned, how does the WG have any effect on the pressure the turbo pushes? I was under the impression that it released pressure from the exhaust manifold. I need some education on the subject.

It controls how much exhaust flows thru the turbine housing of the turbo by adding a 2nd path out of the manifold.


What are you using now to control how much boost you are running, are you still running a N75 valve?

[317ssayzarc]

so if I dont plan on running an electronic boost controller what PSi can I boost at with my current setup...honestly I didnt know the WG had anything to do with how much I can boost as far as the cold side is concerned, how does the WG have any effect on the pressure the turbo pushes? I was under the impression that it released pressure from the exhaust manifold. I need some education on the subject.

jon, get yourself a nice ebc, your setup would be a complete waste w/o it

[Euro-Tuner]

It controls how much exhaust flows thru the turbine housing of the turbo by adding a 2nd path out of the manifold.


What are you using now to control how much boost you are running, are you still running a N75 valve?

yeah Im running an N75

jon, get yourself a nice ebc, your setup would be a complete waste w/o it

god damn these parts just keep adding up...ok fine, which do you guys recommend?

...I was talking with the shop I go thru to get my tune done, and they said that the tuner (MRC) hates EBC's, what the advantage of an EBC over an N75 and a custom tune built around it? other than the bells and whistles of coarse

[317ssayzarc]

im running a profec b spec 2, but i may have to get another one as this one can only go to 30 psi...

ebc's can be tuned to any turbo or boost level, the n75 cant without another custom tune $$$... the ebc is cheaper in the long run and a better product imo

[Wizard-of-OD]

Jon what spring you have in there now?Try not to disassemble the wastegate as it can be a real bitch to reassemble.

[Euro-Tuner]

with out disassembling it I have to assume I have the large blue spring (0.9 BAR/13 psi)

...so if I use an electronic boost controller along with the WG will that allow me to eliminate my N75 valve?

[Euro-Tuner]

Oil flange question:

Do our cars produce enough oil pressure to need a restriction on the oil flange to require cutom drilling the flange (i.e. buying this)

Oil Feed Flange with integrated -4 Male Flare (Undrilled)

...or is it safe to run this flange??

Oil Feed Flange with integrated -4 Male Flare

...this is where my query is coming from:

Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.

(origional URL)

[pipe7284]

This is a very interesting thread since i am in the process of a BAT .

[a220vt]

Oil flange question:

Do our cars produce enough oil pressure to need a restriction on the oil flange to require cutom drilling the flange (i.e. buying this)

Oil Feed Flange with integrated -4 Male Flare (Undrilled)

...or is it safe to run this flange??

Oil Feed Flange with integrated -4 Male Flare

...this is where my query is coming from:



(origional URL)

You need to run this: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=GTBB

[Euro-Tuner]

how would I configure that to fit in my oil feed inlet?

[chris164935]

I would recommend having whoever is getting together your turbo setup get the parts you need for the oil feed and return as well as the coolant lines.

[Euro-Tuner]

tried that, full race didnt have the correct parts...or any gaskets or hardware

[a220vt]

how would I configure that to fit in my oil feed inlet?

It screws directly into the turbo, and the feed line screws onto it. You don't need to use a flange.

[Euro-Tuner]

the inlet on the turbo doesnt have treads though, it looks like it only accepts flanges such as the ones I posted. The return line, on the other hand, has threads, as well as the coolant inlet/outlet

[Wizard-of-OD]

...so if I use an electronic boost controller along with the WG will that allow me to eliminate my N75 valve?

Yes

how would I configure that to fit in my oil feed inlet?

You need this:

http://www.034motorsport.com/product...roducts_id=953

[Euro-Tuner]

gotcha, so it goes on the oil sender unit, not the turbo..so in that case I could just go with the predrilled oil inlet flange for the turbo side of the oil line, if Im not mistaken

[mike-2ptzero]

the inlet on the turbo doesnt have treads though, it looks like it only accepts flanges such as the ones I posted. The return line, on the other hand, has threads, as well as the coolant inlet/outlet

Your center section needs to be rotated because you want to use a flange for the oil return and a direct thread in fitting for the oil feed line which is how it should be.

Picture of my GT35r



If you want a complete oil/coolant line setup 034 sells one for around $330.

[a220vt]

What kind of turbo is it? I thought that all GT center sections had the oil feed tapped with threads. If it isn't, you can put it right at the filter housing like Issam said.

[Euro-Tuner]

so the restrictor doesnt go on the oil sender unit? cuz according to the writeup on isaams link thats where it goes....

[mike-2ptzero]

What kind of turbo is it? I thought that all GT center sections had the oil feed tapped with threads. If it isn't, you can put it right at the filter housing like Issam said.

He has a 3076 and just needs to rotate(clock) his center section so that it has the threaded oil hole on top instead of on the bottom like he has it now. When ever you install a turbo you have to clock the center section and compressor housing since they change depending on how the exhaust housing is mounted.

so the restrictor doesnt go on the oil sender unit? cuz according to the writeup on isaams link thats where it goes....

The restrictor goes on the turbo, the 1.8t to -4 adaptor goes on the oil sender unit so you can use a -4 oil feed line to the turbo.

If you look at the 034 picture I posted you will see the -4 oil feed line(skinny line) which has the restrictor fitting on one end which gets threaded into the turbo oil inlet. The large line on the left is the oil return line and the 2 other lines are coolant lines. The top flange goes on the oil pan and the one just below it is the one that gets bolted to the turbo for the oil return line.

[Euro-Tuner]

I thought 1.8t's had the -4 line stock...so I need to:
-get the 034 adapter
-the ATP adapter (pre drilled)
-rotate the center section
-and I should be OK?

[Wizard-of-OD]

I thought 1.8t's had the -4 line stock...so I need to:
-get the 034 adapter
-the ATP adapter (pre drilled)
-rotate the center section
-and I should be OK?

Stock oil feed line?Nah thats not AN-4
You need to get the following if you have not allready:
* 3' feed line
* ATP adapter (pre drilled) if your centre section is not tapped
* 034 4-AN feed adapter
That should take care of everything.

[Euro-Tuner]

Stock oil feed line?Nah thats not AN-4
You need to get the following if you have not allready:
* 3' feed line
* ATP adapter (pre drilled) if your centre section is not tapped
* 034 4-AN feed adapter
That should take care of everything.

..and rotate the center section so that the ATP flange is being used for the return line?

[mike-2ptzero]

Stock oil feed line?Nah thats not AN-4
You need to get the following if you have not allready:
* 3' feed line
* ATP adapter (pre drilled) if your centre section is not tapped
* 034 4-AN feed adapter
That should take care of everything.

His is tapped but like I said twice now he needs to rotate the center section since he has it upside down right now.

The oil return flange is much larger since a larger oil line is used for the return line, IIRC it is a -10 line.

This is the oil return flange you need and it does use a -10 line, this flange can also be used at the pan in place of the other one most people use.


link to that part on ATP's site


If you want to make things easy I can just order you the oil/coolant line kit that 034 has on their site.

[Euro-Tuner]

His is tapped but like I said twice now he needs to rotate the center section since he has it upside down right now.

The oil return flange is much larger since a larger oil line is used for the return line, IIRC it is a -10 line.

that'll be good to know as well...

[Euro-Tuner]

upon further inspection, what is suppoed to be my oil inlet, there seems to be a restrictor in there already...

[mike-2ptzero]

upon further inspection, what is suppoed to be my oil inlet, there seems to be a restrictor in there already...

Most likely just the normal inlet that sits below the adaptor, you still need a restrictor fitting that has a even smaller hole.

[onemoremile]

An explanation of wastegate function from 034 Motorsport.

[Euro-Tuner]

bump for a new question

what size coolant line will I be needing to buy for the coolant feed and return line. Please post length and size.

Also: Mike, what length oil lines do I need with the FR mani placement for the feed and return line?

TIA

[mike-2ptzero]

bump for a new question

what size coolant line will I be needing to buy for the coolant feed and return line. Please post length and size.

Also: Mike, what length oil lines do I need with the FR mani placement for the feed and return line?

TIA

I will have to check but I think the coolant lines are either -6 or -8 and the oil drain is -10.

[xr4tic]

I had the same question regarding something in the oil inlet already, but couldn't quite get a good pic of it.

Mine looks the exact same way, and I wasn't sure if it was some sort of plug I was supposed to remove or not. I couldn't see any way for the oil to enter

upon further inspection, what is suppoed to be my oil inlet, there seems to be a restrictor in there already...

[a220vt]

There should be threads there for you to thread a restrictor into.