Tools:
16mm socket, 16mm wrench
17mm allen socket
Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer
Process:
1. Loosen collar bolt while tires are still on the car. (17mm allen socket)
2. jack up car
3. remove wheel
4. Remove caliper and rotor (2 17mm bolts on the back of the rotor)
5. un-bolt tie rod end (16 mm long bolt, and the 13mm (I think 13mm) bolt on top, and pound out.
6. remove the upper control arm bolt (The one that always gets stuck)
7. swing out upright assy so you can get access to the outer CV joint.
8. Cut off old boot.
9. Pound off old CV joint. use a dead-blow hammer or a rubber mallet. Make sure you don't detach the inner joint from the axle. If you follow the shaft from where the boot attaches, there will be two washers, a plastic one and a really thing metal one. While the CV joint is on there, it looks like part of the joint. Just pound on the end of the joint until it comes off.
10. All that should be left on the axle is, nothing, it should be "smooth" to the "splined" end.
11. Remove the retaining clip from the end of the shaft.
12. Clean all of the grease off the end and let it dry. Make sure there is no damage to the axle or the splined bit.
13. Put on new boot.
14. Put on new washers, the "smaller" end of the plastic washer goes towards the motor, and the thin washer goes between the plastic washer and the CV joint.
15. Put on new retaining clip
16. Grease up the new joint, grease in each side of the bearings, whatever you can't get on the back side of the joint, squeze through the other end of the joint to back-fill.
17. Thread the new collar bolt to the end of the CV joint and line the new joint up with the splines on the shaft.
18. Pound on the new joint with a rubber mallet until the washers are against the joint and the joint cannot go on any further.
19. Tighten collar bolt to 95 ft/lbs + 1/4 turn.
20. Replace in reverse order.
The whole process should take about an hour and a half, while taking your time, including cleanup.
IT IS STINKING MESSY so if you have latex gloves, I suggest you wear them! Oh, and if you have a shower cap, wear that too, no matter how hard I try, if I do anything with CV Grease, it always gets in my hair!
16mm socket, 16mm wrench
17mm allen socket
Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer
Process:
1. Loosen collar bolt while tires are still on the car. (17mm allen socket)
2. jack up car
3. remove wheel
4. Remove caliper and rotor (2 17mm bolts on the back of the rotor)
5. un-bolt tie rod end (16 mm long bolt, and the 13mm (I think 13mm) bolt on top, and pound out.
6. remove the upper control arm bolt (The one that always gets stuck)
7. swing out upright assy so you can get access to the outer CV joint.
8. Cut off old boot.
9. Pound off old CV joint. use a dead-blow hammer or a rubber mallet. Make sure you don't detach the inner joint from the axle. If you follow the shaft from where the boot attaches, there will be two washers, a plastic one and a really thing metal one. While the CV joint is on there, it looks like part of the joint. Just pound on the end of the joint until it comes off.
10. All that should be left on the axle is, nothing, it should be "smooth" to the "splined" end.
11. Remove the retaining clip from the end of the shaft.
12. Clean all of the grease off the end and let it dry. Make sure there is no damage to the axle or the splined bit.
13. Put on new boot.
14. Put on new washers, the "smaller" end of the plastic washer goes towards the motor, and the thin washer goes between the plastic washer and the CV joint.
15. Put on new retaining clip
16. Grease up the new joint, grease in each side of the bearings, whatever you can't get on the back side of the joint, squeze through the other end of the joint to back-fill.
17. Thread the new collar bolt to the end of the CV joint and line the new joint up with the splines on the shaft.
18. Pound on the new joint with a rubber mallet until the washers are against the joint and the joint cannot go on any further.
19. Tighten collar bolt to 95 ft/lbs + 1/4 turn.
20. Replace in reverse order.
The whole process should take about an hour and a half, while taking your time, including cleanup.
IT IS STINKING MESSY so if you have latex gloves, I suggest you wear them! Oh, and if you have a shower cap, wear that too, no matter how hard I try, if I do anything with CV Grease, it always gets in my hair!
Tools needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
Breaker bar (You may need a cheater bar as well)
Depending on what style collar bolt you have you will either need a 14mm allen socket, or a 27mm socket. -- Look to see first before you go and spend money on the wrong tool.
You can find the 14mm allen socket in a kit that comes with a 10,14, and 17mm at Advanced Auto Parts.
If you need the socket you can pick one up at sears (Kinda pricey, but worth it... $25)
You also need a 12pt star bit (Found at napa)
1. Remove the center cap from your wheel to expose the collar bolt. Inspect the ead of it to determine if you need the allen socket or a regular socket.
2. Hook up your socket and your breaker bar and break the collar bolt loose. I ended up standing on my breaker bar as the bolt was pretty much fused to the hub.
Once it is broken loose, the bolt will be finger tight (believe me, I dar near bit the dust when I broke it loose)
3. Jack up the car (Both sides) and secure it with the jack stands.
4. Pull off the tire and remove the collar bolt.
5. Remove the 6 12pt bolts from the inner CV joint using your 12pt star bit.
6. Once those are all loose you *should* be able to swing the axle up over the diff cap (up into the engine bay, towards the back of the car) and pull the axle out.
Depending on how the axle is assembled you may have to pull the wheel bearing housing loose to make enough room to do this, but with both of the axles I replaced (in the front end of the car) all I had to do was swing the axle up to the top back of the engine bay.
If it seems like your tolerances are really close, you might be able to make a little more room by turning the wheel all the way to the right or left, and try to "finess" it out of its home.
While you have the axle out, it may be a good time to change the wheel bearings (Provided you have a hub removal tool, and an on-the-car wheel bearing press).
7. Install in reverse order. I believe the collar bolt is supposed to be torqued to 95 ft-lbs and then turned another quarter turn (Some serious torque).
I've done two, can do the whole job in like a half an hour (if I don't change the wheel bearings). Pretty piece of cake. Don't forget to pack the grease in the inner CV joint... Oh, and don't get any of that grease in your hair *YUCK!*
Jack
Jack Stands
Breaker bar (You may need a cheater bar as well)
Depending on what style collar bolt you have you will either need a 14mm allen socket, or a 27mm socket. -- Look to see first before you go and spend money on the wrong tool.
You can find the 14mm allen socket in a kit that comes with a 10,14, and 17mm at Advanced Auto Parts.
If you need the socket you can pick one up at sears (Kinda pricey, but worth it... $25)
You also need a 12pt star bit (Found at napa)
1. Remove the center cap from your wheel to expose the collar bolt. Inspect the ead of it to determine if you need the allen socket or a regular socket.
2. Hook up your socket and your breaker bar and break the collar bolt loose. I ended up standing on my breaker bar as the bolt was pretty much fused to the hub.
Once it is broken loose, the bolt will be finger tight (believe me, I dar near bit the dust when I broke it loose)
3. Jack up the car (Both sides) and secure it with the jack stands.
4. Pull off the tire and remove the collar bolt.
5. Remove the 6 12pt bolts from the inner CV joint using your 12pt star bit.
6. Once those are all loose you *should* be able to swing the axle up over the diff cap (up into the engine bay, towards the back of the car) and pull the axle out.
Depending on how the axle is assembled you may have to pull the wheel bearing housing loose to make enough room to do this, but with both of the axles I replaced (in the front end of the car) all I had to do was swing the axle up to the top back of the engine bay.
If it seems like your tolerances are really close, you might be able to make a little more room by turning the wheel all the way to the right or left, and try to "finess" it out of its home.
While you have the axle out, it may be a good time to change the wheel bearings (Provided you have a hub removal tool, and an on-the-car wheel bearing press).
7. Install in reverse order. I believe the collar bolt is supposed to be torqued to 95 ft-lbs and then turned another quarter turn (Some serious torque).
I've done two, can do the whole job in like a half an hour (if I don't change the wheel bearings). Pretty piece of cake. Don't forget to pack the grease in the inner CV joint... Oh, and don't get any of that grease in your hair *YUCK!*
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