Control Arm Install

[Shams78]

My control arms are shot so I ordered the ECS kit along with a puller kit from JC Witney. I tried to tackle the job on Staturday but ran into a problem. I started with the driver side top control arm bolt and that thing would not budge at all. I hit it with a punch and used PB Blaster on it with no luck, that bolt must be frozen with all the snow and salt from winter. So without air tools I see no way to get that bolt out, so I stoped right there. So now I'm thinking I need a shop to install the control arms for me, anyone know how much in labor it will cost to do all the control arms on the front end of the car. Or better yet if anyone has a solution for getting that bolt loose, I'd rather do the job myself.

ECS TUNING KIT & Puller Tool Set


Last Weeks Maintenance Job

[Daft]

If you are referring to the bolt that holds the upper arms to the wheel bearing housing, then yes, I know quite well how difficult it can be.

My driver's side bolt was not moving at all. I had to soak it with PB Blaster and then cut the threaded end off. Then I used my Ingersol Rand air hammer on it for about 10mins straight. It moved very slowly, maybe 1mm per minute, then it suddenly shot out.

The problem with the bolt was that it was bent in the middle. How it got that way, I'll never know.....

I see you bought the whole puller set from JC Whitney. The close-pin style puller is the one to use.

[Shams78]

Just called the dealer, they told me about $275 to replace all eight control arms on the front end, with my parts, but they can't get me in for 2 weeks.

So @ $65/hr I figure it's going to take a little over 4 hrs to do the job, does that seem about right.

[Daft]

On a lift, yes.

On your back in the driveway, much longer....

My control arms took me all day to do them. It was a combo of several pesky bolts that wouldn't come off. PLus, the Bentley manual doesn't tell you that you have to loosen the whole engine cradle to remove the bolt that holds the rear lower control arm to the passenger side of the car. There are fuel lines there and you have to loosen the cradle, otherwise, you could crack the fuel lines...

[onemoremile]

the same bolt was stuck on mine. it took a lot of torching and a lot of air hammer work to get it out. just like above, when it got past halfway it just fell out. you will definitely need an alignment when you are done and that may have been included in the dealership's quote. runs $106 at my dealership but they only charged me $65 this time.

[G-low]

ok so i didnt wanna start another thead about this cause everyone will hate me so..... all of a sudden im gettin this odd clunk when i step on the brake would this be a sign of bad contol arms?
i figure you were obviously replacing yours for a reason and i was wondering if you had this kind of problem with yours?

[SEXICÄN]

if you can't get that bold out from the upper control arm knuckle, just soak it in some WD40 and when its ready, use a pencil toarch and heat it up, then it should be very easy to get it out then

[Daft]

The problem with using a torch on that bolt is that is travels though the wheelbearing housing at it's top end. This is a huge piece of solid metal that is painted. With a pencil torch you'll be there until it runs out of fuel and with a real torch, you'll begin to burn the paint off of the surface of the wheel bearing housing. The bolt does come out with force but, it takes a while. I'd say "use a torch" if there was more of the bolt exposed to the torch.

[jrodmk2]

if i got a price of 275 from a dealer to install them i would have waited the two weeks. they told me 450 so i decided to do it myself. my car is still on the jack stands in the garage and i am going to get a new/used wheel bearing hosing tom. night after work. now i get to replace the wheelbearing i should have done a couple of months ago.(i drilled the shaft out of the bolt. pretty damn staight, but i got the hosing a little bit so i don't want to take anychance of an arm coming out later down the road so i will get the new hosing oh well i guess. i am getting a air hammer for the other side.)

[SEXICÄN]

i used a pencil torch and only took me around 2 mins to get them out. Just to make sure i'm talking about the same thing you are TUrbo90awd, we are talking about the bolt that is holding the upper control arms to the knuckle right?

[Daft]

Yeah, that's the bolt I'm talking about. The bolt on my car was actually bent in the middle. That was why it refused to come out for me.

[SEXICÄN]

how did it get bent?

[Daft]

God only knows.....

[G-low]

could someone tell me if this clunking thats associated with bad contorl arms happens when you brake or just going over bumps

[Daft]

In the beginning it usually happens on small bumps in the road at low speeds (mainly because the car is quieter).

My car did start to clunk while braking once they became worse. It usually happened on a sharp downhill corner where I'd have to slow down to 35MPH to make the corner. As the car leaned, I could hear that clunk-clunk sound as it matched the movement of the suspension on that side of the car.

[SEXICÄN]

you will hear it more when you are going over bump or rather uneven roads. You can also hear it when turning. All in all, it will get louder and louder and more annoying

[G-low]

im a bit worried cause i get this clunk when i hit the brakes but i dont seem to notice it when im over ruff roads. my control arms were squeeking awhile back but that stopped for some reason so i dont know if it could be something else or i just dont notice how bad the contol arms are

[Daft]

The squeaking on mine used to come and go too. It's related to the outdoor temperature.

As far as whether your control arms need to be replaced, you should listen for the clunking over small bumps at slow speeds.

On average, these are the types of cars that usually indicate worn control arms:

MY 1996-1999.5
More than 60K miles

Most of the 2000-2001 cars don't have enough miles on them yet to really start showing the signs of wear but, I'm sure they will too when their mileage gets up there.

[nmb]

I'm getting mine changed now at 180.000 km.

Getting the full vagparts kit. They have it for 600usd. The two lower control arms are 300 alone here at the stealership!

Too bad I already changed the tie rods. Will keep or sell the extra set.

[Wholsea]

Well, if I get a descent tax return next year, it is on my list, but $600 for parts plus another $200-$400 for labor. Yikes...

[G-low]

does some company make better control arms than the revised vertion of ours like the ones ECS sells cause i remember something about CPP having a different design all together