Originally posted by zemun2
Yes please Jet,
Post as much info as you can. I still haven't decided between NX CO2 mister or just plain water mister.
Here we go guys...First I would like to thank
Luc and
Claude from
L-Sport in Montreal for the designing and installation of the water misting system.
First the electronics.
First I decided to buy from Avalon in Denver the eLabtronics water mister controller. It comes complete with all the wiring harness, thermometer, fuse and a CD with the instructions on how to do it. You could buy it directly from Australia but it would not be as complete a kit.
First pass the main wiring harness of the mist controller from the cockpit side through the firewall and up through the ECU housing.
Now take the grey sleeve of the wiring harness and take it off to expose all the wires. Lay down the wires towards the front of the car. These wires are for the units own thermometer sensor and for the cockpit mounted thermometer
Now remove the
big rubber hose that allows the car's main ECU harness to go through the firewall and pass through it a long screw driver. This is necessary to pass your mister controller's own wiring through the firewall. Once the wiring is passed through, re-install the rubber hose in place.
Now here comes a more delicate operation. This is where I deviate from Avalon's instructions to make a neater job of it. Avalon suggest that you run a wire to one of the injectors on the manifold. I on the other hand decided to tap the injectors signal wire right here in the main ECU plastic box/housing where it is protected from the environment. Take a close look at the car's main wiring harness from the ECU. You will see in the background slightly out of focus a small bent
green wire. You will also see that right after the bent point the wire is bare, the sleeve as been removed. In the foreground you can see a larger
red wire. The
green wire is from one of the injectors (signal) and the
red is from the mister controller. By splicing these two together the mister controller will know instantaneously when the injector is commended to give fuel.
Now for the actual soldering of the two wires together. Once done, secure the wires by taping them up.
Another angle on the completed job. The
big green wire crisscrossing the
red mister controller signal wire is the wire used to power the pump.
Now wrap the lose thermometer wires in the engine bay with a new plastic sleeve. These wires will end up somewhere in the front of the car. One sensor, the one with the two steel prongs will be pass through the left side I/C to read the air temperature in that I/C. The other sensor, the black one near the date in the picture, will be secured behind the I/C by the other one to give you a temperature reading in the cockpit. Finally the third sensor, by the technicians thumb and above the bolt, will be installed in the air duct on the left side of the car just ahead of the I/C.
In the cockpit, the installation was rather simple. The kit comes with its own fuse so we installed that near the fuse box for easy access. I can't recall at this time where we connected it for power. The actual location where the controller is installed is in that slot below the steering wheel, perfect fit. I left enough of an harness to be able to pull it out to adjust it and to turn it on and off. I must have about three feet of harness. One reason I did this was to have easy access to it. I installed a bypass switch to the unit. I can spray on demand without having the car running. This way while I'm a line up in an autocross competition, I can spray my I/Cs as I wish to keep them cool.
Finally the digital thermometer. I installed it dead centre just above the steering wheel. As you can see there are two read outs. Since this unit is nothing more than an indoor/outdoor home thermometer, the one on the left will give you your ambient temperature inside the car. The one on the right will give you the temperature coming out of the I/C. Sorry the pic is out of focus. That's it for the electronic side of things.
Now for the hoses and nozzles...
Basically I use the same type of hoses used by Audi for the headlight washers. I use one hose from the pump to the midway point of the front bumper. There I use a
T fitting to go to each side of the car to each I/C. Since this year I decided on using two nozzles per I/C, I have to use two other [b]T[/b} fittings to split the hoses for each I/C. That way the pressure and water delivery remains constant and equal to both sides. Her in this picture the first and main split is where the man hand is at the top of the bumper. Coming towards the right side, you can see near the end of the aluminium bumper the second split. You can see the hose run at the top of the air duct to the top nozzle. You can also see the bottom nozzle (in white) coming through the bottom side of the duct. The same scenario is repeated on the other side.
Picture showing the assembly, including the top hose and nozzle, bottom nozzle, horn and the right side I/C.
Now for a close up picture.
Close up of the nozzle spraying under low pressure condition. That's it for the hoses and nozzles.
Now for the pump...
On my 2002 car, I used the headlight washer pump. This turned out to be a problem. Because they are not meant to run as often as they were been used, I killed two pumps. So this year I decide to get a real pump.
This picture shows you the headlight washer pump with my car key to show you a perspective on its size.
Now get ready to be blown away. The OEM pump vs the Mickey (that's me) pump! IIRC this thing can move upwards of 3.3 gpm at up to 45 psi.
Here is a side by side comparo.
Another angle. That's it, that's all for now. Hope this helps you out. When I get the digi cam back I will show you the actual pump installation on the car.
My name is John.
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