Vaccum issues.

[dukez]

My vaccum and boost readings are off compared to when i first chipped the car.

Before
Idle: -20
Boost: +20 (WOT)

Currently
Idle: -10
Boost: +24 (WOT)

Whats the deal? I dont think I'm overboosting, car feels the same, but my gauge needle is definetly going higher than before. Also when I'm driving and let off the gas, vaccum will go down to -20 like normal, but when i come to a stop, it'll climb back up to -10 in idle. Before it stayed in one spot (-20)

I did a quick inspection for any sort of leaks and hose connections. Everything seems fine. If the vaccum is off, is it a leak? Are there some weird hoses I should check that are known to break or leak?

I have a distinct feeling that my 710 BPV isnt good anymore. But I also don't think it's my gauge that is broken either, the car just feels weird. When I downshift, theres a lag going on before the power comes on. Man I really need to tune this mofo. It's pissing me off. Thanks for reading.

[Daft]

Definately a vacuum leak. How is tha car idling? Is it idling closer to 1000 rpms?

The main places to check are the vacuum line from the BPV to the intake manifold and the hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold. Both of them are made of that rubber/cloth crap stuff. After a few years they become extremely brittle. To many tugs on thoses hoses will crack them all over and the leak can't be seen until you flex the hose with your hand. The cloth crap does a nice job of hiding the cracks from you.

[alen]

yes, that might be the issue. a fellow audi owner just discovered tonight that the hose from the DV to the intake manifold was disconnected and my car was not pushing at all. now... it's a whole different world.

[DDQ]

Originally posted by alen
yes, that might be the issue. a fellow audi owner just discovered tonight that the hose from the DV to the intake manifold was disconnected and my car was not pushing at all. now... it's a whole different world.

alen, you may want to fix your sig. You cannot link to AW, they won't allow your pic to show. You can host it here in the gallery, see the stick at the top of the page for instructions.

[alen]

yea i see that. i'm actually making a new one right now. the camera batteries are charging up so i can transfer the pic onto the comp. will have one up soon.


EDIT: done. it sucks ass i know, but i had enough juice to take only one pic tonite.


btw, sorry to hijack your thread.

[dukez]

Originally posted by turbo90awd
Definately a vacuum leak. How is tha car idling? Is it idling closer to 1000 rpms?

The main places to check are the vacuum line from the BPV to the intake manifold and the hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold. Both of them are made of that rubber/cloth crap stuff. After a few years they become extremely brittle. To many tugs on thoses hoses will crack them all over and the leak can't be seen until you flex the hose with your hand. The cloth crap does a nice job of hiding the cracks from you.

I replaced all the vaccum lines when i originally installed the 710 BPV. I used some hard(er) plastic crap I got from Pepboys. I do still have my stock BPV around, I wonder if i should switch them out and see whats up. I dont think it would hold up very long though.

The other day I was pissed because the car felt really lagged, so I drove around in the high RPM's. Kept all the (lower) gears around 5-7k before shifting. The car feels/responses better in this area. I ran thrid at 60-70MPH for a good while.

*Didnt really WOT while doing this, just kept gassing it steadily (boost read +5 to 10psi)

[Anthony]

Ah, yes, the wonderful world of the old B5 1.8T and their friggin hoses. Ended up giving up on mine.

So anyway, just looking at all the visible hoses under the hood is the first step. Getting up underneath the car is step two. Doing a vacuum leak test is going to come after that.

I've had my fair share of torn, pinched, and undone hoses in all sorts of crazy places! Good luck, dukez.

[dukez]

Yeah this turbo business is way over my head (and nerves). But I always learned from lifes little lessons.
Rule #1: Never buy Audi again. EVER.
Rule #1.1: Never buy any Euro-car for that matter again ever.
Rule #2: Stay away from turbo'd cars.

They hare nice, but all this turbo timing, cooling down, effecient airflow nonsense is too much for a beater. (I consider my car a beater).


Optional Rule: No more 4cyclinders. Yeah im sick of driving 4bangers. I havent drove anything else bigger. Next car i get is going to be a NA V6/V8, or maybe perhaps V12.

[dukez]

Oh ALSO, (back on performance topic) what is this throttle adaption trick dealy I keep reading about. What does it do, how is it done? My car is nDBW.

[Anthony]

See, the little exception and addition to your rule is...never buy an older Audi (actually any Euro) unless you are good friends with a mechanic or know the car very well yourself. Warranties are key! The B5 definitely does not a good "beater" make.

I will never buy a used car within 3-5 years of production. It's either buy brand new or very old.

[EVIL-AUDI]

Originally posted by dukez
Oh ALSO, (back on performance topic) what is this throttle adaption trick dealy I keep reading about. What does it do, how is it done? My car is nDBW.

very easy to do.

1. If ecu has been unplugged. insert key to ON position and leave the car sitting for 2 minutes without touching anything especially the throttle pedal.
2. After time had passed, start car and let sit, do not touch anything again.

That's about it.

[Rieger_RS4]

what other vac lines are there other then the BPV and FPR? and where are they located, cause i think i have a leak somewhere and i already replaced the ones by the FPR and BPV!

[dukez]

Originally posted by EVIL-AUDI
very easy to do.

1. If ecu has been unplugged. insert key to ON position and leave the car sitting for 2 minutes without touching anything especially the throttle pedal.
2. After time had passed, start car and let sit, do not touch anything again.

That's about it.

.

So unplug the ECU and turn to ON position (for 2 minutes)? How long do i let the car idle in step 2?

[DDQ]

Originally posted by dukez
.

So unplug the ECU and turn to ON position (for 2 minutes)? How long do i let the car idle in step 2?

What he meant was that you should do a TBA anytime you cut power to the ECU (like when you disconnect your battery, or install a new chip).

After that has occured, make sure it's all connected again.

Make sure your engine is not warm, and it's cooled off. Then you turn the key to the ACC position. You'll hear some clicks and "whirs" under the hood. Takes less than one minute. Then start the engine, and do not touch the gas pedal. Just let it idle for a few minutes, maybe 3 at the most.

All it does is allow the ECU to relearn the throttle settings, from closed throttle, to WOT. The settings are erased anytime you cut power to your ECU.

[EVIL-AUDI]

Exactly