where to get an N75 valve?

[ComingSoon]

where can i buy one

[jesseahhstyle]

ecs tuning
awe

[DDQ]

You can try any of the online discount parts sites, or just go to the dealer.

www.car-parts.com
www.vagparts.com
etc....

Your N75 is failing? Just wondering what your symptoms were. I had a problem with mine, but it turned out to be the wiring, not the valve. Have you tried swapping it with someone else's first? It may save you some money.

[ComingSoon]

wish i could swap it out before hand but there isn't many people that i can meet with on such short notice......
the problem is that my car won't pass stock boost, replaced the BPV today and now the only two options left are the n75 or the turbo where is the N75 specifically so i can check that junk....but the car just isn't getting the power it needs, and ecs said that the n75 doesn't like giac programming because it causes it to overboost so any ideas?

[DDQ]

ECS is probably talking about their "race valve". All chips are programmed assuming the stock N75 valve is in place, so they should never conflict. If you run the ECS race valve with a chip, then you may have boost spikes that throw you into limp mode. But, some others have said they run it with no problems.

Anyway....

If you're stuck at stock boost, then you may also be stuck in limp mode. You really need a VAG-com. When my wiring was bad on the N75, I could not boost much over 5psi. I did NOT get any CELs. However, when I scanned for codes I found there was an N75 code that was thrown - intermittent signal.

The wiring in the connector is very brittle. If you hit the connector, or tug on it when changing your BPV, etc... then you can easily break the wire. I simply peeled back the rubber boot on the connector, and found that's where the wire broke. I soldered it back together, and problems were solved.

What year is your car?


Here's the location of the N75 on my 97:

[ComingSoon]

its a 98.5 and I haven't thrown any codes reguarding the n75 so i don't know what to think and we just had the car on the vag at AWE but I'm gonna go check out the wiring and so if i go pick up a stock n75 from the dealer or such i would be better off then the race one right?

[DDQ]

Yes, stock should cause less potential problems than the race valve would.

When I ran the scan for codes, it did not show up either. But, when I used my VAG-com, I opened the Engine module, and scanned for codes, and then it showed up.

There's also ways you can test to find out if you're N75 is bad. You can do a diagnostic output test with the VAG-com. One of the tests is of the N75. You want to have it pulled from all vac lines, but leave the wiring when you do the test. Blow thru the long leg while the output test is running and the valve should cycle. You'll hear it click several times. A it clicks you should alternately be able and unable to blow air thru the valve. If it doesn't cycle, either one or both of wires are broken or the N75 itself is toast.

Also make sure the vac lines to the N75 are not cracked or leaking.

[pigliiit]

wheres a good place to get a vag from? are the ones they sell on ebay any good?

[pigliiit]

like this one, would it work fine with the shareware version of the software or do i need the full software package to properly diagnose things??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=43989

[DDQ]

You'll want the registered version. $99 at www.ross-tech.com

Also, make sure you check your laptop for a Serial port. Many do not have them (my iBM ThinkPad does not). Therefore, I had to get the USB interface.

Check on www.ross-tech.com for all the info you need. I got mine directly from them. They also have great tech support for their products.

[EDness]

it happened to me tom. It was my MAF that cause the limp mode. Try swapping MAF with someone and see if that works. OR vag the car and check got flow.