2012 A7 trunk lid module(s)???

[iNostos]

I have an issue with my trunk no longer opening or closing automatically after swapping in a new battery (I did the adaptation with OBD11). In researching a possible fix, I found there are 2 modules related to the “rear lid” & I don’t understand why or what the difference is. So what’s the difference between the “rear lid power opening control unit” pictured here:
Screenshot 2025-04-07 104832.png and Screenshot 2025-04-07 104903.png

and the “rear lid control unit” pictured below:

Screenshot 2025-04-07 114240.jpg Screenshot 2025-04-07 122911.png and Screenshot 2025-04-07 114116.png

In addition, the “rear lid power opening control unit” should be located behind the rear bumper attached to the crash bar according to the screenshot but after looking several times under there, I can’t find it. Is it possible it’s located somewhere else or that I just don’t have it?

Any help would be really appreciated!

[iNostos]

In case someone else runs into this or is curious, I took my car to a local-to-me Euro repair shop (European Auto Clinic in Federal Way, WA - great experience!) who completed the repair. They concluded that when I swapped the battery, because I didn't keep 12v running through the car, it wiped the trunk control unit, the 2nd unit pictured above (the 1st one pictured I actually don't have on my car). So they had to use Vag Com or Otis (the service advisor wasn't sure which the tech used) to reset the trunk control unit & it worked.

When first researching the battery swap, I found several videos that didn't include keeping the car powered. After the swap & encountering the trunk issue, I did more research & found a couple videos that actually referenced doing that in order to avoid wiping any control units. So for anyone else installing a new battery on their C7 and wanting to save money, be sure to keep power running through the car. The under-hood posts should do the trick.

As a follow-up, I asked how much power needed to be running through the car during the battery swap & the service advisor just said 12v. I asked about amperage & he didn't emphasize that very much. He seemed to think it needed enough amperage to start the car but I'm not sure about that. I have a little Harbor Freight battery maintainer that's like 0.5amp but I'm not sure that would be enough. Any thoughts?