Project Mercedes: My First D2 S8

[ShelbyM3]

Let the fun begin!







What are the 2 little grommets for with the valve cover gaskets and is the half moon in addition to the one under the camshaft chain tensioners?




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[Bordom]

See post #600 for valve cover seal removal in my thread.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...php?p=15009468

See post #611 for seal install, including the grommets (they sit in the center of the valve cover)
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...php?p=15014454

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[Audibot]

I think this is the part you rub your hands together in anticipation

[ShelbyM3]

See post #600 for valve cover seal removal in my thread.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...php?p=15009468

See post #611 for seal install, including the grommets (they sit in the center of the valve cover)
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...php?p=15014454

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Thank you!

I didn’t get a chance to read through it all, but do you remember where you got the rear main seal without the flange, all I’m finding is the ones with the flange and they’re expensive, and do you remember what size driver you used?

It also looks like the spark plug wells gaskets are in there! I take it you gotta beat them out with a hammer and that big socket you used?


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[ShelbyM3]

I think this is the part you rub your hands together in anticipation

And have an evil grin on my face while petting my hairless cat. Hahaha!


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[ShelbyM3]

Does anyone have any experience with the Amazon variety of magnetic induction heaters for breaking free crusty fasteners? They’re about $200 now days and I’m really debating picking one up to have on standby for Project Mercedes. I do not want to break any fasteners and deal with the headaches my friends have had, especially given the rust I’m seeing on the subframes and pans.

This is the one I’ve been eyeing https://a.co/d/40FFr1U


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[Audibot]

That one (or one very similar) has been on my wishlist for a while now. Very curious how it holds up. I guess in the worst case, getting the protection plan might be the winning scenario.

One of those already saved my RS.

[ShelbyM3]

That one (or one very similar) has been on my wishlist for a while now. Very curious how it holds up. I guess in the worst case, getting the protection plan might be the winning scenario.

One of those already saved my RS.

The reviews are reassuring, but there’s always a few that say it didn’t work or broke shortly after first use.

If I do pull the trigger, I’ll wait until I’m actually ready so I don’t miss the return window on it. I suspect, like with most things now days, there are lemons, but the majority work as intended. I also think people don’t read the instructions and probably run the unit too long and burn it up.


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[ShelbyM3]

Thank you to Rich at TraditionParts for having the D2 hood latch cable remade for us and purchasing the rights to the Bufkin pipe. The parts are piling up


My rigged cable from a previous owner





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[Bordom]

Thank you!

I didn’t get a chance to read through it all, but do you remember where you got the rear main seal without the flange, all I’m finding is the ones with the flange and they’re expensive, and do you remember what size driver you used?

It also looks like the spark plug wells gaskets are in there! I take it you gotta beat them out with a hammer and that big socket you used?


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For the Seals without flange (may or may not come with install tool):
Timken 716102
Elring 728880

With flange:
077103171N

I would strongly urge you to go and purchase the entire flange and seal brand new from the dealer. Installation was extremely simple, and use the other seals to rebuild the old stock unit. If prices are astronomical, I can purchase one for you locally and then ship it to you. They're less than $200 CAD from my local dealer, whereas on ECS they're almost $600 USD.

There wasn't really a seal driver I used for it, because the kit I bought didn't have one large enough. I used the old seal and tapped on that to seat the new one on the flange.

As for the spark plug seals, they require some force to remove and install. 1 3/16 socket I had fit perfectly and also helped as an install tool.



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[ShelbyM3]

For the Seals without flange (may or may not come with install tool):
Timken 716102
Elring 728880

With flange:
077103171N

I would strongly urge you to go and purchase the entire flange and seal brand new from the dealer. Installation was extremely simple, and use the other seals to rebuild the old stock unit. If prices are astronomical, I can purchase one for you locally and then ship it to you. They're less than $200 CAD from my local dealer, whereas on ECS they're almost $600 USD.

There wasn't really a seal driver I used for it, because the kit I bought didn't have one large enough. I used the old seal and tapped on that to seat the new one on the flange.

As for the spark plug seals, they require some force to remove and install. 1 3/16 socket I had fit perfectly and also helped as an install tool.



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You’re the best. Thank you! I’m a long ways out for the rear main seal, just planning ahead.

I saw you broke your original flange. Woof. I definitely don’t want to be in that position. I will definitely heed your advice. And it looks like I need a big socket. I wonder what the OD on a 1 3/16” socket is.


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[Bordom]

I'll measure it for you this weekend when I pop back home

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[ShelbyM3]

I decided to investigate the plasma situation a little bit further this evening. I was alarmed and happy, at the same time.
I started poking around and realized the whole thing kind of wiggled. Apparently this 9” screen is only a single DIN so somebody electrical taped the cubby underneath the unit to the unit itself and shoved her on in the hole.



Rat’s nest of wires



All the factory connectors are still there, Yus I suspect the white wire going off to the left of this picture goes to the ignition somewhere. Not excited about that. And, they ran all new stereo wiring. 2 different gauges of wire, one big for the front and small for the rears. Way larger than the stereo harness. It’s a total backwoods Jimmy Riggin’ and apparently that’s my specialty!



It looks like they cut these 3 wires and tapped into the factory wiring for the plasma. I don’t think there’s enough meat on the bone here so I think I’ll try to source a pigtail. Maybe I can de-pin the wires and solder them back together.



Anyone got a pigtail!?


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[Audibot]

I was struggling to figure out what I was looking at in that first pic. Sheesh.

[Bordom]

I dislike wiring nightmares. My car isn't much better, so I'd rather part it out than sell to anyone else lol

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[ShelbyM3]

I was struggling to figure out what I was looking at in that first pic. Sheesh.

Sorry, I did a poor job there. It’s a side profile of the stereo cartridge electrical taped to a cubby, and you can see the tape is tearing from sliding in and out. Right of the screen is the plasma and left is where the wiring comes out of the stereo.


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[ShelbyM3]

I dislike wiring nightmares. My car isn't much better, so I'd rather part it out than sell to anyone else lol

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If I can source a new pigtail, I bet I can salvage this stuff. The door speakers are another story, though. I bet they’re aftermarket, hence the speaker wiring being added. Hopefully it’s all in there and maybe I can find some factory Bose speakers, too.


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[Audibot]

Sorry, I did a poor job there. It’s a side profile of the stereo cartridge electrical taped to a cubby, and you can see the tape is tearing from sliding in and out. Right of the screen is the plasma and left is where the wiring comes out of the stereo.


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No, I think it's just a testament to how poor an install that is.

[jbain2]

If I can source a new pigtail, I bet I can salvage this stuff. The door speakers are another story, though. I bet they’re aftermarket, hence the speaker wiring being added. Hopefully it’s all in there and maybe I can find some factory Bose speakers, too.


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Reach out to Neil (AZ handle 11o7) about the speakers. I was looking for some a little bit ago until I sorted out an issue and found some infinity speakers I had squirreled away in my shed.


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[ShelbyM3]

Reach out to Neil (AZ handle 11o7) about the speakers. I was looking for some a little bit ago until I sorted out an issue and found some infinity speakers I had squirreled away in my shed.


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I’ve got Neil’s number. We’ve been chatting. Thank you!


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[jbain2]

I’ve got Neil’s number. We’ve been chatting. Thank you!


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Figured that might be the case. Hope you get what you need.


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[Bordom]

I'll measure it for you this weekend when I pop back home

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I couldn't find the 1 3/16" socket I used, but I found the similar sockets almost that size. All sockets are Gray tools (Snap-on of the Canadian hayday)

1" = 34mm
1 1/8" = 38mm

So every 1/16" is 2mm of socket diameter, based on what I have.

You're looking for a socket that's going to be anywhere from 36-42mm OD to use as a seal driver

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[ShelbyM3]

I couldn't find the 1 3/16" socket I used, but I found the similar sockets almost that size. All sockets are Gray tools (Snap-on of the Canadian hayday)

1" = 34mm
1 1/8" = 38mm

So every 1/16" is 2mm of socket diameter, based on what I have.

You're looking for a socket that's going to be anywhere from 36-42mm OD to use as a seal driver

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Ok great. I should be covered. My driver kit goes from 18mm-65mm and a random 74mm.



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[Bordom]

Ok great. I should be covered. My driver kit goes from 18mm-65mm and a random 74mm.



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Damn, where did you get that? It looks pretty handy lol

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[ShelbyM3]

Damn, where did you get that? It looks pretty handy lol

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Looks slightly “nicer” than mine.
https://a.co/d/4lFNVOk


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[ShelbyM3]

Thanks Hugh.



Also…I’m going to look at another D2 S8 tomorrow… could be a flip or a really solid parts car. More to come.





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[ShelbyM3]

Waiting on a tow…Project Roxanne…



Advertised as a 2002, but it’s a 2001 S8 with 183,000 for $800. She’s rough, but she will be loved.






Homeward Bound





Home







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[ShelbyM3]

I managed to source a set of what appear to be fairly old check valves for under the valley pan off someone on Facebook.


I decided to go with a nice lock bar and not a cheap one. I was pleasantly surprised, too, because it came with an extra grenade pin AND the little tool for the tensioner roller. Score!




Windshield washer jet pump grommets for Project Dana and Mercedes.



Various crush washer for the fuel filter and power steering banjo bolts. FCP Euro got new fancy FCP Euro bags



All that’s left for my initial parts assessment is a valley pan gasket. I may need to sell my first born for that, though. Haha. Getting closer to D-Day.


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[Bordom]

Nice find on the oil check valves, and the timing set! You can use needle nose pliers for the tensioner (if you're not able to locate the tool you found).

The valley pan gasket is only available from the dealer, and it's pretty expensive ($100ish).

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[Audibot]

I was like "she doesn't look in rough shape" and then I got to the interior pics

Great finds! I want to say "one project at time" but you're far too gone for that

[ShelbyM3]

Nice find on the oil check valves, and the timing set! You can use needle nose pliers for the tensioner (if you're not able to locate the tool you found).

The valley pan gasket is only available from the dealer, and it's pretty expensive ($100ish).

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I scored on the check valves, for sure. Feeling good about the parts train.

I found the valley pan gasket for about $200usd. Where do you find them for less?


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[ShelbyM3]

I was like "she doesn't look in rough shape" and then I got to the interior pics

Great finds! I want to say "one project at time" but you're far too gone for that

Those poor Recaros She’s definitely a twenty footer.

I’m beyond gone. I’m almost to the point, I never was. You think a 4 and 3 year old can prep a cylinder head or set timing on a 4.2!?


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[Bordom]

I scored on the check valves, for sure. Feeling good about the parts train.

I found the valley pan gasket for about $200usd. Where do you find them for less?


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Audi Canada has it for $80 CAD. I have to call a dealer to confirm final price.

Let me know!

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[ShelbyM3]

These are my two options here in The States. I’m wondering with currency conversions and shipping if I’d really come out ahead. Bordom, if you wouldn’t mind, would you, please and thank you, look into this for me? @tracksleds6 looked into it for me state-side and it was pretty much the same. I’d be WAY more into $60usd than $180-$200.






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[Bordom]

Sure thing! I have to order my 02X trans mount bracket anyways. I'll order it regardless, and if you want it, I'll ship it to you for cost

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[ShelbyM3]

Sure thing! I have to order my 02X trans mount bracket anyways. I'll order it regardless, and if you want it, I'll ship it to you for cost

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Deal!


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[ShelbyM3]

I got a stereo harness in today. I got the whole dang thing! Score!





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[ShelbyM3]

This brief interruption is sponsored by our donor, Roxanne. She will forever be cherished and loved in her past life, the present, and future.

I took off the bank 2 valve cover and didn’t see anything terrible. Both guide shoes are intact on the camshaft chain tensioner.







Next I decided to pull the spark plugs.

8



7



6



5



Then I got out the scope of truth…



And I saw the way…cylinders 8, 6, and 5 and are not happy. Cylinder 7 was almost all the way up. It looks to me like there is some piston slap or something to the effect as all the cylinders I could see have similar wear marks 180 degrees from each other.

Starting from 8, then 6, then 5. Plus a shot of the valves on 8 and 6











“Tag, I’m it!”


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[Bordom]

Compared to the B6/7 engines that's likely salvageable. Did you do a compression test on that bad girl?

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[ShelbyM3]

Compared to the B6/7 engines that's likely salvageable. Did you do a compression test on that bad girl?

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I have not. I was just talking with Avantly about that. Maybe I should!? I’ve got no experience with what the B6/B7 blocks and what they look like. I’ve never scoped my Allroad, either. What scenario would have decent compression, but that awful noise? Rod bearing or main bearing? (I was also thinking I could pull a plug from Bank 1 and see if there’s similar wear marks. Maybe there is?)

Other thought I’m having as I write this, could it be possible the flex plate is cracked/broken and could be making that noise if it’s rubbing in the bell housing?


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