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A bit late, but thanks for the info on the 17" sizing. I currently have the 17" 5 Spoke Y (4F0 601 025 CC 8Z8) 8J x 17H2 ET48.
So it looks like theres a finger between wheel and caliper.
According to this comparison i should be good with my 17" wheels since they are wider and have larger ET. which means I can start looking for a set of spare calipers :D
Attachment 267899
Will have to see which ones I could find for cheaper. The q5 3.0 or the macan.
On my car I refreshed my braking system with a set of new Zimmerman high carbon rotors and some redstuff pads. I've ran the car hard in some local canyons and passes with no heat issues so far, however, that was before going single pulley. Might pull the trigger on some macan/Q brembo 4 pots when I next need pads
https://i.postimg.cc/TKxL2XmJ/IMG-ec...3adc28ee-V.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/87kpnkM9/IMG-57...e8f7806c-V.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/XX0pkb1S/DSC-2261.jpg
Hi there! I want to show you my progress. The color code is YR532M from Honda. I did three layers of 2K primer, 3 layers of base coat and 3 layers of 2K clear coat. No sanding after the primer.
I think they will look great on my blue A6 with 19" black Tomason TN1. I will update when install the calipers.
Hello,
Late reply but:
1. I can confirm that at least some 17" wheels work. I have a setup Audi OEM 17" that works fine:
https://i.postimg.cc/C59kgb8q/IMG-0219.jpg
2. I actually have some problems with this setup, currently unclear why. I've had this setup on the car for some 3 years now, and suddenly one pad wore out completely and destroyed the disc. When I took it apart, the outer pad had like 50% left while the inner pad was worn down to the metal. Unfortunatley this happened on the side which has no sensor so the disc got busted too. [>_>] When I looked on the other side, the same thing has happened just not as bad; the inner pad is almost gone while the outer pad has lots of meat left. First suspicion as to why this has happened is that this combo caliper / disc might not be working 100%, maybe the disc isn't completely centered in the caliper. But if that is off, it can't be by much. But then I found out something odd: I have used ECS tuning's site as a reference for the OEM part numbers. But when I now checked up part numbers for new pads, I find that there seems to be a difference between pads for the US and EU market. I'm using EBC redstuff pads and ECS states that the part number for these is DP42070R (OEM=8E0698151G). But when checking EBC's own sites, and other european part shops, the part number is DP32168C (OEM=8R0615115G). But the part numbers for the calipers seem to be the same in both EU and US. [confused]
So maybe I used the "wrong" pads? There is a smallllll difference in size and shape between the 2:
The "US" pad, which I have been using:
https://i.postimg.cc/7LfKS6Q6/US-EBC.jpg
The "EU" pad, ordered these now:
https://i.postimg.cc/kMcWXCfh/EU-ebc.jpg
Here is a picture of the pads that came with calipers when I bought them, they are from a totaled A6 C7 TDI, 2016 year model I think.
https://i.postimg.cc/K8XT0Yzj/278990...66331962-n.jpg
EDIT: Also kindof intresting that the pads are stamped "BREMBO" and also that they are made by Galfer, a company usually mostly known for making performance brakes for MC's. Usually VAG oem parts has no markings on them who made them.
Maybe worth noting:
1. The "EU" pads cost just about half of the "US" pads in the same shops.
2. Both pads are being sold by the same shops, so doesnt seem likely they are some upgraded verson.
Also, these "Q5" calipers are also present on 4 and 6-cylinder versions of both the A6 and A7 from 2014 and up.
Any input on this is welcome!
Best Regards.
I bought cables which has two sensors for the inner and outer pad. The other thing I am thinking of is the surface where the pad meets the caliper (not the back of the pad against the caliper pistons, but the side beds). If the pad is not moving easy in the bed it can cause such problem. Something similar to the one-piston calipers when seized. Another friction point is the mounting pins which goes through the caliper and pads. When I think about it, big difference between this 4-pot caliper and any other 1-pot caliper is that, when 1-pot caliper seize it wears out unevenly the pads, but when this 4-pot caliper seize, it not only wears the pads unevenly, but also pushes the rotor out of its plane.......not good. Something else to think on is the pipe that connects the two parts of the caliper. The brake pressure hits the inner pistons directly and need to travel through that little pipe to the outer side. If there is some obstruction and uneven pressure on the both sides, it will cause the same problem. Now I am starting to worry about my kit and how it will work. Will see.
I was thinking at first it was some caliper problem too, but there was no problem pushing the pistons and when I saw the other side I'm thinking its due to something else. Well see what happens...
BTW anybody know if there is some legal difference between the EU and the US when it comes to brake pads?
You wouldn't happen to have the specs/part number for your oem 17" ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingDL
Bringing this back from the dead. How has pedal feel/ push length been for those that did the 4pot q5 and the stainless lines ?
I recently got a mk6 gti that has real nice brake feel and the brakes on the a6 feel so long and kinda meh. At the end of the day the gti is a sporty car and the a6 has nothing sporty about it.
I did the 18z setup and have been driving on it for a few weeks now, the pedal feel is like OEM but a lot more bite with the added pistons. Not having to switch rotors was a bonus as well, the only caveat is the brake pad sensor is constantly on as the sensor doesn't transfer over to the new pads, I'm using 17z pads which line up on the calliper/rotor.
Has anyone found a workaround for the brake pad sensors?
https://i.imgur.com/3W68E2p.jpg
You can either purchase them through ECS or make a set from old brake pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tai-Lun
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The bracket I made for the b8.5 s4/5 which utilizes the b9 rs5 or 4M Q7/8 6piston oem calipers should work also on the A6,A7 and Q5 as well. Allows 375mm x 36 rotor and better wheel clearance.
Look in the b8 s4 forum for oem plus brake upgrade thread.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...91d9dbc3fa.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0f9d378a4b.jpg
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This is good info; now that I have a tune; this is closer on my radar :D
FWIW the C6 S6 rear brakes are 330x22mm, but the C7 S6 rears are 356mm diameter, so that's probably what you have on your S4, B18b1ex. The C6 S6 rear rotors have a slightly different offset than the C6 A6 rear 330x22mm rotors though, so they're not interchangeable. You can also tell the C6 S6 rear brakes are different than what you have because the C6 calipers don't have a fancy big anti-rattle spring with the Audi or S6 logo, only the front calipers on C6 S6 get the fancy rattle spring.
I did a lot of research before, getting in this stuff. I did use C7 s6 rears, but then in looking more into it I found that the rear calipers on most of the cars are the same size with the carriers being the difference. I mixed the Porsche Macan caliper for the plate with the c7 s6 carriers and sold the other parts to an A4 guy.Quote:
Originally Posted by persondude32
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah the calipers themselves are the same between C6 and C7 S6 rear, but the rotor and bracket are different, and the rear rotor on C6 S6 is a 330mm while the C7 S6 is a 356mm. And this thread is in the C6 board, so that's why it's weird to say an S6 came with 356mm in here when the C6 S6 didn't come with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by B18b1ex
Thanks for clearing that up. My mistake sorry.Quote:
Originally Posted by persondude32
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