I gave up on these. I'l give it once last hurrah and update you guys again.
I gave up on these. I'l give it once last hurrah and update you guys again.
Ok, so I figured I'd post some findings and what I think might be the root cause of the various cracking the 06H version CPs have had.
I know there are various test cases where cracking has been an issue but to me this makes sense in terms of root cause. I could be way off but figured I'd contribute something here...
- I got my 06H CPs and ran them for about 500+ miles without the adapters. After that I checked them and there were no cracks in the jacket.
I think this is because without the adapters the CPs are perfectly centered on the spark plug terminal; therefore no lateral stress is exerted where the CP meets the spark plug terminal.
- When I installed the adapters with the CPs I made sure the seal around the neck was pushed through the adapter to ensure the bottom seated on the terminal of the spark plug.
When putting the adapter and CP in see how the bolt hole and adapter hole line up
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0010-1.jpg
I think this is the root cause of why they eventually crack. It's a small amount but the pressure exerted to align the bold hole is IMO enough to exert uneven pressure between where the CP meets up with the spark plug terminal and over time (heat/cold/heat/cold) eventually causes cracking.
My proposed solutionI think this has been proposed in an earlier post but I thought I'd share some pics of the method and the after results.
I have yet to buy a new set of CPs to test this theory but again it's what made sense to me at the time.
Pull the rubber off the neck of the CP to allow the adapter go through without any resistance. You'll also not there is some play between the adapter and the neck of the CP. This is good IMO.
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0005-1.jpg
Now put the rubber boot on the underside of the adapter. This will eventually seal to the valve cover like the old CPs would. There should be enough play at this point to let the CP to center itself without exerting any lateral pressure on the connection between the CP and spark plug terminal...
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0008-2.jpg
Note how centered the adapter and valve cover bolt holes are aligned.
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...l/DSC_0012.jpg
In short I think this also persists with the metal CPs but it's not noticed because of the plastic jacket.
What we could do is open the bore of the adapter.
I still recommend the steel coil packs....if they worked for the MKV they will work for you.
V1.3's and V1.2's are back in stock. Tomorrow they will be packages and all back orders shipped.
I agree the bore diameter might help. Even through I have three out the four cracked I don't have mis-fires so I'm good. None the less I've been really happy with this upgrade.
All Back orders started shipping today. should have about 60 kits in stock once this wave is over.
id like to pull mine to check for cracking. i have NO misfires. I wonder if the vw dealer would warranty these? I have a buddy that works there that i already get a discount on shit, so they dont have to know i dont have an mk6
Over 200 Kits in stock ready to ship. Tells your friends....have them tell there friends...have those friends tell shop friends and have those shops come and talk to our friends so we can all be friends.
3.29 AM....no one up?
Everyone , please only buy MKV Coils. Forget using the MKVI units.
RED MKV FSI Coil Packs - 06E 905 115
BLACK MKV FSI Coil Packs - 07K 905 715 F
BLACK MKV TSI Coil Packs - 06F 905 115 F
These correct for those who may not know.
Looks like the only issues have been with the 06H. I have a crack about a inch on one and have had some misfires every now and then during startups. Will replace with old CP's and see if still happens though. If you dont have any cracks Nate i would try Vic's set up so you can avoid any.
so the TSI ones are similar to teh 06h's?
TSI is 06H
06H is the engine code starting # for the timing chain TSI Motor.
06F is the engine code starting for MKV GTI FSI
07K is the engine code starting for MKV 2.5 Rabbit
06E is the engine code starting for B7 Audi A4 2.0 FSI
i.e. all TSI engine part #'s will go 06H XXX XXX
I took apart a TSI Coil pack today (06H XXX XXX) and I believe the boot is somewhat off centered. I dont know if the locking tab pushes it to one side but doing what you did centered it back.
It is not a "bad design" like someone above said.The coil pack adapters are perfectly symmetrical. In other words in the program it is an inverted mirror image.
I installed the latest CP people are having trouble with a few months ago. I just pulled all 4 of them out and they are all fine--no cracks at all. I did install mine with some light silicon spray on the rubber seals. without that, you do have to really force the coil packs to get them to seat fully. I wonder if that is where the stressing them out occurs that leads to a crack in the outer shell. I am going to continue running them since they seem fine.
Yup
06E's they are red and sexy.
Switched to the metal ones for a weekish now, and happy to report that the issue of random misfires is gone. Gapped the plugs to .042 and no misfires. Back in biz.
Still prefer using the 06E/06F units.
Checked my 06H CPs yesterday, no cracks. The lubrication of the seal is very important, the CP must be free to move vertically, with temperature chagnes, to prevent compressive stress on the CPs. The temp cycling makes the effects of any stress larger. I also removed the seals from the 115D version CPs, and replaced the seals on the 06H CP with the 115D seals. The 115D seals, fit the spark plug well better while providing a block from water and dirt into the wells.
I believe the 06H coilpacks, made by Bosch, are a better design compared to the other versions. One difference between the Bosch and the 115D CPs, is the Bosch CP have a longer/larger seconday coil winding compared to the other versions. Another difference is the resistance in Ohms, measured between the sparkplug connector, and the harness connector pin #4, the 115D coilpacks measure ~2.3 megOhms, the Bosch 06H CPs measure Infinity Ohms between all of the harness connector pins and the sparkplug connector, the output of the secondary winding.
So I'm thinking about doing this re-wire along with re-wiring the injectors to USCAR plugs on my 185k mile original AEB engine harness. I'm going with Bosch EV14 injectors.
Parts:
INA v1.3 spacers, Anodized black $90
Audi B7 A4 Quattro 2.0T Coils, Part# 07K998715F $80 (ECS)
Coil Pack Wiring Harness Replacement Part# 1J0971658L $50 (ECS)
Bosch Type EV6 Injector Connector Kit (USCAR connector) $17
Automotive High Temp wiring $10
It will be a weekend project since I plan on removing the old ICM/Coilpack, Injector, and secondary O2 wiring. Does this look like it should work correctly? It looks like everyone is leaning towards 07Kxxx715F coilpacks as these do not have the plastic insulators that has been shown to cracking.
Issam - Can you please provide me with some cliff notes? ..so I can convince myself to purchase these already.
People are having trouble with the coil packs cracking?
Which coil packs are working best with these adapters?
Any tricks people are figuring out now that they have been out for a while?
And what benefits have people been seeing from these?
Thanks a million! Really appreciate it.
you seriously can answer all of your questions on teh first page of this thread.
So has anyone posted any hard data on the difference that these coilpacks make vs say a fresh revision R type? I ask that last part because people here who have claimed improvements also mentioned that the type R's they replaced had been used for some time.
I just converted my AEB style coil packs to the push down type, so I'm probably not going to be in the market for the FSI ones for a little bit yet. However I'd like to know if there's enough of a gain to make it worth my while to do the switch when the time comes to replace my pushdowns.