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So I've been doing a bunch of work on a new (to me) 2008 A4 Avant (automatic) over the last 4 days or so. I've replaced:
- valve cover gasket
- fuel injectors
- intake manifold gasket
- coolant flange
- coolant temperature sensor
- oil filter housing
- throttle body gasket
- replaced PCV with ECS catch can
Pretty sure I plugged everything back in, don't have any missing screws, but its not starting. It sounds like it's cranking, but it won't catch.
Anyone run into a similar issue? Any ideas?
After replacing fuel injectors did You code the new ones through VCDS?
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You don't have to do any coding for new injectors. You only rescale them if they're bigger and that's a tuning thing. It sounds like you forgot to plug something in. Did you pull the fuse before messing with the fuel components?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibmets
Actually You do have to code new injectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by i3oricua
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ment_.28ISA.29
njector Quantity Adjustment (IMA) and Injector Voltage Adjustment (ISA)
These values represent the behavior of an injection valve (Piezo Injector). Caused by manufacturing tolerances the injectors have a unique behavior and get divided into separate classes. In combination with the automatically determined learning values of the engine control module the pre- and post-injections are being calculated individually for each valve.*The behavior of an injection valve is also mileage dependent, so a valve with e.g. 10000 km has a different behavior then one with 70000 km. The control module determines these automatically while driving so the learning values change against the mileage.*When altering one of the following values the learning values are being reset because the ECU thinks you are adjusting a new valve.
The IMA-ISA values need to be adapted when:
One or more injection valves have been replaced. Make sure not to adjust the valves which have not been changed!
The engine control module has been replaced.
Do NOT adapt these values when you did not replace one of the above parts, also not for training or demonstration purposes.
The adjustment code can be found on the injector itself, it is a 7-digit value and does only use the following chars: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,K,L,M,N,O,P,R,S,T, U,V,W,X,Y,Z.*A value of*AAAAAAA*is also not valid.
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Did you have new injector o-rings? Do you have a fuel smell? Make sure you are not leaking any fuel anywhere. That will cause it not to start. Also make sure your battery is charged. I had worked on my buddys car and the battery discharged on me and would not start.
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Despite what the internet might tell you, you don’t have to code new injectors. My car has always started every time I’ve put new injectors in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibmets
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Sibmets: Thanks for the response, I appreciate it! I don't have a TDI, though, which is a relief, as the last thing I want to do at this point is pull the injectors out again to read the numbers on them. Whew! I've also replaced the injectors twice on my other B7 (also a 2.0T FSI) and no recoding was required.
i3oricua: I'm kind of getting that feeling, but I triple-checked the connectors at every stage because I didn't want to have to take everything apart again. My other nightmare scenario is that something may have been plugged into the wrong spot, which I don't THINK is possible, due to the length of the various looms and the different pins/shapes...
Dalmation53: Nope, I did not pull the fuse before I pulled the HPFP, I did what I always do and and just unscrew stuff to relieve pressure. When I buttoned everything up, I could hear the fuel pump priming when I opened the door. I got that long "fizz" that indicates that it's pressurizing, so I'm guessing that's not the case. Can't really smell any fuel there, and checked the lines coming off the HPFP, and they're all dry.
Put new injectors in, all o-rings accounted for.
Now the battery may be another situation - I HAVE had the hood open for about 5 days with the car unlocked...BRB, gonna check voltage. EDIT: Voltage shows 11.7 volts, which I think is ok. Might hook my charger up to it and see if it starts that way, though.
Noticed something odd when I was checking the voltage in the Torque app, I'm getting 87.5 degrees on for the Tilt(z) value. The car is at a slight angle, but not THAT much of an angle.
Update: Resting voltage is at 11.7. When cranking, it goes down to about 8. Trying a trickle charge now, will see how that goes.
Update 2: Car still will not crank even when being jumped via my other running B7.
Running out of ideas, except taking everything apart again. [=(]
My man you have a bad battery. 11.7 is not resting point. You should have 12.1 and going down to 8 is a bad battery. I'm sure your work is fine. The problem is a bad battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by redbat
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Yup - new battery and it cranked up no problem. Thanks! No codes, but still a rough idle every once in a while. Also, engine and HPFP are very hot, fans kicked on at max, coolant pipe on the top of the engine is about room temperature. Maybe some air in the coolant system? No codes. Also a little fuel leak at the HPFP at the nut (always forget if that one's left or right to tighten), but I should be able to tighten that nut to fix that.Quote:
Originally Posted by dalmation53
If the coolant temp sensor was bad, I'd be getting a code for that, right? No leaks that I can see at the coolant flange, the oil cooler or the oil filter housing.
You have to bleed the coolant system. Air will put the fans at high speed. Yes the coolant temp sensor would throw a cel. I think it would say "cooling peformance not reached" something like that. Told you it was a battery problem haha. Yeah tighten that nut asap. You don't want fuel coming out on a running engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by redbat
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Yeah, need to bleed the system. Just finished flange and CTS. Initial idle had the same: fan max on, top coolant pipe not warm at all. I also had CTS connector came loose - no CEL though, just temp gauge at zero. Secured CTS connector, bled the system w/ heater on max, refill a lot of coolant. Everything is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by dalmation53
Thanks guys - did the bleed, all seems well. Tightened up the nut on the fuel pump, all good. Engine's making a bit of a ticking, though - not the usual ticking. I've added so much new stuff this week that I'm not sure if what I'm hearing is normal. I've uploaded a video here (only 31 seconds!) if anyone wants to take a listen: https://youtu.be/37JNdl9ZBhM
wding2000 - that CTS connector was super corroded on my other B7 - I had to rewire it: Post here
Also, congrats on your stuck bolt! I had a stripped bolt on my vacuum pump - had to swallow my pride and take it to the dealership to fix. [facepalm]
Looks like the ECS PCV/catch can isn't working correctly - I appear to have positive pressure in the crank case. Removed the oil filler cap, air blew out, no change in idle.
Put your PCV system back to stock and see if you problem goes away.Quote:
Originally Posted by redbat
Hardly anyone has a diesel here bud. You aren’t wrong in general, just in context.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibmets
GAAAH. Still having issues with a fuel leak at the bolt on the high pressure fuel line side of the HPFP. In addition, someone has torqued the crap out of the Schrader valve fitting, so I couldn't get it off to get room for a wrench, so I took the "face" plate of the pump off by removing the two security torx screws.
I'm guessing the "ball" end of the hard line didn't seat exactly correctly, so I'm going to try again, but I'm wondering if anyone has tried blue threadlocker on anything fuel-related. I know teflon tape would be a bad idea, but I haven't read anything about threadlocker. Seems like it might be an ok idea as it might help seal any gaps in the threads.
I did check the threads on both ends and they don't look stripped. I'm more worried about the outside of the nut, as it's starting to look pretty beat up at this point...
Anyway, anyone have any advice, or know if blue threadlocker is a bad idea?