B&O settings after subwoofer install

[Vanilla1]

Hi all, I installed a JL10" W1 with a class d amp and L2Ci Pro LOC. I snipped the connector on the factory sub and connected the L2Ci to get signal. 12V is hard wired and sense and GTO work fine. System works sometimes. In the morning, it works for a minute and then the sub goes silent for 25ish minutes during my commute and then works flawlessly the rest of the day. I found fault codes under 47 in OBD11 for subwoofer open. How can I make stop checking? My LOC has been set to 20ohms, 60 and 20kohms with same results. Am I missing something?

[irish07]

I had left the stock sub connected and spliced into that feed, I also pinched a feed from the rear door woofer. This allowed a nice range to go through my Kicker amp. I then inverted polarity on my Kicker sub in box to match the stock sub and not fight against.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vanilla1]

Darn... Left the connector I snipped in my tool box somewhere, months ago, I'll start looking for it.

[Nillious]

Don't worry about the sub code. I have it too And it causes no issues.

I have an lc7i using the GTO. I have the amp powered directly from the battery. At the amplifier power lug I have a smaller power wire tied in that comes back out and to the lc7i. It has worked like this for two years now without issue. I have no remote wires of any kind. What ever you have the power for the LOC tied into could be turning off. How exactly do you have the power wired?

[Fresh.S4]

here ya go!

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/759815-The-definitive-stereo-and-subwoofer-upgrade-thread?p=14554000&viewfull=1#post14554000

make sure you shove towels in between the rear deck and the removable deck to aid in preventing excess vibration.
This isnt the perfect setup, as the sub is too small to really move the trunk air for those low low signals, but for like 80% of my rap/rock/techno; it slaps nicely. much better than before and didnt cost a fortune. years later and i have zero issues with the sub being damaged. I did take the signal a little higher to around 45hz just because i got annoyed with the excess vibration.
after studying more about IB setups and asking questions, i was told the best way to completely remove the vibration on the rear deck was to cut a 3/4 board the same shape as the rear deck and mount it to it to prevent the sheet metal from flexing (vibrating). I might go that route if i get bored and need something to do. I also might choose a better subwoofer that can push the trunk space air since the one i originally have (mb quartz) isnt really an ib, its just a low pro sub. but again all of this is just nit picking for me. most of the time im completely content with how well it does as is.

I do understand a straight dedicated box will work much better, but i got kids and need trunk space.

[Vanilla1]

Processor and amp is powered from the battery. LC2 and amp have separate grounds (works fine, no noise). 12v trigger if I wanna use it, is from a key on relay behind the cubby on the passenger side. Hopefully there is not an internal issue from the LOC.

[Fresh.S4]

Processor and amp is powered from the battery. LC2 and amp have separate grounds (works fine, no noise). 12v trigger if I wanna use it, is from a key on relay behind the cubby on the passenger side. Hopefully there is not an internal issue from the LOC.

use an actual 12v trigger not the 'sense' line option. you can grab one from the fuse panel on the pass side trunk.

[Vanilla1]

Update: finally had time to mess with the system. Couldn't find the pigtail for the subwoofer, just made a new one and kept the signal for the Audiocontrol. Forgot how anemic that factory sub was. Same thing, happened the next morning on the way to work. Aftermarket sub wired for a few minutes and then nothing for 20. Then I removed the LC2i and threw in my much cheaper CT Sounds version of it and it started going in and out instantly. Next morning, it kept working and hasn't stopped since, really weird but, I'll take it. I did switch back to the key on 12v.