Broke the lower ball joint pinch bolt

[diablizzard]

I knew I shouldn't have attempted it. I even soaked the bolt in PB Blaster for 2 days and put some heat around the bolt. That sucker still broke on me. I then patiently drilled though the bolt and tried to extract it. It still won't budge.

What do you all do to get it out? Or am I stuck locating a new steering knuckle?

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[Burkeomatic]

I knew I shouldn't have attempted it. I even soaked the bolt in PB Blaster for 2 days and put some heat around the bolt. That sucker still broke on me. I then patiently drilled though the bolt and tried to extract it. It still won't budge.

What do you all do to get it out? Or am I stuck locating a new steering knuckle?

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You may just have to drill it bigger and stick a helicoil in there. That's all I can think of unless you can get a left handed drill bit to grab on to it. I've had bolt extractors like the ones you drill in work about 10% of the time, and chances are if it were that rusted in there, then they won't work.

You could always do the atf/acetone mix on it for a couple of days.

[Valpo A7]

Wolfautoparts.com has used units for about $200. You can source on ebay for under $150. Partsgeek has off brand new for under $200. Or you can source from Audi for almost $1000 each. I have purchased from Wolf Auto in the past and the part was in good shape and ready to install.

Before you throw the towel in soak it in Blaster again and then put some heat on the knuckle. Attack with a hammer as well, that will help break up the corrosion.

[Botbasher]

I knew I shouldn't have attempted it. I even soaked the bolt in PB Blaster for 2 days and put some heat around the bolt. That sucker still broke on me. I then patiently drilled though the bolt and tried to extract it. It still won't budge.

What do you all do to get it out? Or am I stuck locating a new steering knuckle?

Having tried this operation on 3 different vehicles... 6 uprights... 2 snapped clean... 2 came right out... 2 required a lot of patience.

On the snapped ones, I tried it all... PB, heat, the ATF Cocktail and combinations of... even going as far to try the Potassium alum or Ammonium aluminum sulfate method with limited positive results. The Alum process had the best results, but it was INCREDIBLY slow and was going to take more time than I was willing to give it. I think if I had been able to heat it and/or put it under pressure, it would have worked MUCH better! In the end, I bought new uprights. I wanted bolts that were 100% given how hard I push the cars at time. The piece of mind and simplicity is well worth it! I did eventually sell the original ones with the snapped bolts and broke even on the costs! So there is that!

On the ones that moved a bit then froze up, the ATF Cocktail and heat were the winner. Tighten, soak, loosen, soak, tighten, soak, loosen, etc etc... Every time I got a fraction of a thread more than the last. Took a couple days but I won and was able to get it out, clean the threads and reuse the upright.

How you solve the problem really depends on how much time you have to devote to it. Buy new ones is the fastest and easiest, but the most expensive. Alum is the cheapest and easy but takes a long long time!

It's a horrible design and I now avoid cars that EVER lived on salty roads!

Good Luck whatever way you choose!

KS

[Botbasher]

I then patiently drilled though the bolt and tried to extract it.

If you drilled through it, the Alum Process might work well for you as it'll attack the entire length of the remnant instead of just the end faces. Drill it out as close to the original threads as you dare and then let all your cares melt away!

Cheers,

KS

[Burkeomatic]

Yep, and if he screws it up, there's always the helicoil.

I would have either got the damn thing out by now, or ruined it trying and just bought another one.

[diablizzard]

I appreciate all the advice. I just wish the bolt listened and walked its way out. I drilled very close to the threads and tried the ATF/acetone mix, which didn't work. It looks like I'll have to helicoil it. Does anybody know the threads of the bolt? I have a kit for M10x1.5.

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[Valpo A7]

If you are planning to go the helicoil route then you will need to buy the new bolt as well. With the new bolt in hand then head over to your local ACE hardware and match up the threads on their display. Google searches indicate its likely an M10 but not sure on thread pitch.

[diablizzard]

I ordered the bolt as soon as I broke it and will be picking it up later today. My car should be back on the road tonight, as long as my helicoil kit matches.

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[diablizzard]

I forgot to mention, the only threads on the bolt are what's stuck in there. The rest is a smooth shank.

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[Burkeomatic]

It doesn't matter, with the helicoil you basically drill/tap it the next size up, then twist the helicoil in.

I don't know what the thread pitch is on that, but I remember when I stripped out a hole on my brakes which I think was the carrier to hub hole, it was a weird pitch that wasn't common and only 1 part store that was open had it. So if it's a weird bolt it could take a minute to find.

[diablizzard]

It turns out the pitch is 1.5, so I didn't have to spend anymore money. I was able to drill and tap it without issue and the car is back on the ground. I appreciate all your help and advice.

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[Valpo A7]

It doesn't matter, with the helicoil you basically drill/tap it the next size up, then twist the helicoil in.

I don't know what the thread pitch is on that, but I remember when I stripped out a hole on my brakes which I think was the carrier to hub hole, it was a weird pitch that wasn't common and only 1 part store that was open had it. So if it's a weird bolt it could take a minute to find.

Since he bought the bolt he needed to match the thread. For the M10 bolt there are 1.0, 1.25, and 1.5 thread pitch Helicoil options to choose from. Depends on if you need fine or course thread pitch. They all drill out to a larger hole but each kit will have a different tap to cut the new threads.