Horrible brake noise / Wonky rotor after wheel bearing replacement

[Spetznaaz]

So i've just spent all day replacing my front wheel bearing and had a horrible time doing it but i finally got it all back together and went for a test drive... As soon as i applied the brakes with any sort of speed if made a horrible creaking noise. Happens every time i hit the brakes and there also seems to be a constant chirping noise. On examination it would seem the distance between the rotor and the brake pads changes as i spin the rotor and the rotor kind of gets stuck on the pads when it hits a certain point - As if the rotor was warped, although i'm pretty sure it isn't warped. I'm almost certain this is the reason for the noises but what i don't know is why it's happening.

My neighbour pressed the old bearing out and the new bearing in, part of the new one came flying off as he was doing it and there appear to be some dents in the "dust cover" of the new bearing but he pressed it back in and said it's fine. All i can think that could be responsible for the warped rotor effect is the bearing not being seated in the hub bit properly, perhaps at a slight angle...? Or the bearing not being fully seated in the knuckle but i'm pretty sure it is.

I've got some videos i will try and upload but atm i am utterly exhausted and everything aches.

Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?

Cheers

Edit - Videos added further down

[Jayz691]

Well, either the bearing assembly isnt sitting flat, or rotor isnt sitting flat on the hib. But with a new hub, rust/buildup isnt an issue.
Gonna have to pull the wheel off and examine everything.
Even if the Hub wasn't pressed all the way into the bearing, it should have pulled the rest of the way in when you tighten that axle Bolt. With 150 ftlb + 180°(if ya got it), that should pull it all the way in.

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[Spetznaaz]

Well, either the bearing assembly isnt sitting flat, or rotor isnt sitting flat on the hib. But with a new hub, rust/buildup isnt an issue.
Gonna have to pull the wheel off and examine everything.
Even if the Hub wasn't pressed all the way into the bearing, it should have pulled the rest of the way in when you tighten that axle Bolt. With 150 ftlb + 180°(if ya got it), that should pull it all the way in.

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The hub wasn't new, just the bearing. I did briefly use an air hammer on the hub, it didn't looked deformed but perhaps it was bent slightly. I managed to almost do the 180°, not quite maybe about 2/3.

I cleaned the mating surface of the hub to the rotor, i can't see any reason it wouldn't be sat flat. As for the whether the bearing assembly is sat flat in the knuckle, i'm pretty sure it was. There were some gaps at first but when i torqued the 4 triple square bolts up it pulled it all flat together.

I'm really not sure what's going wrong... I took the wheel off earlier and all that looked out of place was the distance between the rotor and pad changing when spun as i mentioned. I guess i'll have to get everything back on jack stands and take the caliper / rotor off as a next step.

[Theiceman]

you have runout. if you take the caliper and rotor back off set up a jig on the ground with a point barely touching edge of hub. spin it . if you see same affect it's all coming back off.
just get hub/ bearing assembly and put it in make sure mating surface of knuckle is flat and unmarred from tools

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[Theiceman]

Well, either the bearing assembly isnt sitting flat, or rotor isnt sitting flat on the hib. But with a new hub, rust/buildup isnt an issue.
Gonna have to pull the wheel off and examine everything.
Even if the Hub wasn't pressed all the way into the bearing, it should have pulled the rest of the way in when you tighten that axle Bolt. With 150 ftlb + 180°(if ya got it), that should pull it all the way in.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Audizine Forum mobile app (https://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)the axle bolt does not pull the hub assembly flat to the knuckle which is what the caliper is square with it pulls the hub assembly square with the axle. it can still be skewed. if hub isn't flat to knuckle. it's gonna be hub assembly not flat to knuckle, or rotor not flat to hub.

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[Jayz691]

the axle bolt does not pull the hub assembly flat to the knuckle which is what the caliper is square with it pulls the hub assembly square with the axle. it can still be skewed. if hub isn't flat to knuckle. it's gonna be hub assembly not flat to knuckle, or rotor not flat to hub.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app (https://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I want saying the hub assembly, I was talking about the hub itself, into the bearing. If its wasn't pressed in all the way, the axle bolt should pull it the rest of the way..
But thats not gonna cause the rotor to have run out, or seem warped.
Only thing I can think of doing that(and not doing before) is if the hub wasnt clean.
If the bearing assembly wasnt fully flat, it wouldnt wobble back and forth, would just spin at an angle.


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[Theiceman]

I want saying the hub assembly, I was talking about the hub itself, into the bearing. If its wasn't pressed in all the way, the axle bolt should pull it the rest of the way..
But thats not gonna cause the rotor to have run out, or seem warped.
Only thing I can think of doing that(and not doing before) is if the hub wasnt clean.
If the bearing assembly wasnt fully flat, it wouldnt wobble back and forth, would just spin at an angle.


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fair points

So really it has to be the rotor on the hub.. that is a beefy bearing . i cant see the hub not being square.. unless it was mangled in the press, but even then ..

[Spetznaaz]

I want saying the hub assembly, I was talking about the hub itself, into the bearing. If its wasn't pressed in all the way, the axle bolt should pull it the rest of the way..
But thats not gonna cause the rotor to have run out, or seem warped.
Only thing I can think of doing that(and not doing before) is if the hub wasnt clean.
If the bearing assembly wasnt fully flat, it wouldnt wobble back and forth, would just spin at an angle.


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fair points

So really it has to be the rotor on the hub.. that is a beefy bearing . i cant see the hub not being square.. unless it was mangled in the press, but even then ..

I was thinking about that today, if the bearing was at an angle, then it wouldn't cause the runout / warpedness, it would just be spinning at an angle and remain a constant distance from the brake pads. As far as i can visualise it in my head anyway.

One thing i didn't mention is that when i try to spin the wheel it is quite hard to do so as there is a lot of resistance. Is it possible that something isn't pushed in fully, thus the whole rotor is slightly further forward than it should be (or the opposite, somethings been pushed in too far and the rotor is slightly too far back)... As the caliper / caliper bracket are fixed at a certain position, a rotor that is too far forward or back could be being pushed in a way that makes it not sit completely flush on the hub?

Another thing - Is it normal for the rotor to be able to be rocked back and forth by hand? (see video)

I could be way off the mark here but the mating surface was pretty clean so i can't think of any other reason it wouldn't be flush.

The jig idea sounds good, i'm going to try it out tomorrow if it's not raining again.

Another thought i just had, could tightening the axle bolt too much cause this? I did it to 200Nm + 180 like it says for the M16 bolt so i don't think i over tightened it...



The runout / warped issue:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54CPVF9IFEg


Is this normal:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6adkq6ppg8


The noise when braking (passenger window is broken so it's not as clear as it could be):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OC5M2URTunQ

[Spetznaaz]

Right, so i took the rotor off and put a jack stand next to it and spun it... The distance between the hub face and jack stand changed as i spun it, so it would seem the hub is bent. Could have happened when i used the air hammer on it.

I order a new hub and bearing however i'm really not sure if i got the right one. I got the Meyle 100 407 0068, which apparently is the same as the part number 4B0 407 613 B (the one 7Zap say i need) and some places say it's compatible with my car while others say it isn't.

The hub is flat like this:

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/574290_x800.jpg

Instead of like this, which is like the one which came off the car:

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/785158_x800.jpg

Really not sure what to do now.. Do i go get it pressed, or do i return it and order the one which looks the same?



Here's the difference in the gap from spinning the hub:

https://i.postimg.cc/BZhBb5xZ/20240716-121706.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Rhb7Y9MJ/20240716-121716.jpg

[Jayz691]

fair points

So really it has to be the rotor on the hub.. that is a beefy bearing . i cant see the hub not being square.. unless it was mangled in the press, but even then ..Yeah, don't see the hub being "crooked" in the bearing, unless its bent.

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[Jayz691]

Right, so i took the rotor off and put a jack stand next to it and spun it... The distance between the hub face and jack stand changed as i spun it, so it would seem the hub is bent. Could have happened when i used the air hammer on it.

I order a new hub and bearing however i'm really not sure if i got the right one. I got the Meyle 100 407 0068, which apparently is the same as the part number 4B0 407 613 B (the one 7Zap say i need) and some places say it's compatible with my car while others say it isn't.

The hub is flat like this:

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/574290_x800.jpg

Instead of like this, which is like the one which came off the car:

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/785158_x800.jpg

Really not sure what to do now.. Do i go get it pressed, or do i return it and order the one which looks the same?Bent hub would dec do it, only other way..
I used the meyle hub like pictured. Pics show the backside.. Just dif designs.
Hopefully you can swap it without destroying the new bearing. Pull bearing assembly back off, and press it out carefully..

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[Theiceman]

ohhh that would be tricky.... i think id order another bearing just in case.

Glad you found it though .. if you see run out on the hub, imagine what is like by the time you get to the edge of the rotor !!!

even if you have to buy another bearing and hub , so what, you are still Miles ahead of taking it in and you learned something.

[Spetznaaz]

Bent hub would dec do it, only other way..
I used the meyle hub like pictured. Pics show the backside.. Just dif designs.
Hopefully you can swap it without destroying the new bearing. Pull bearing assembly back off, and press it out carefully..

Sent from my LM-V600 using Audizine Forum mobile app (https://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)


ohhh that would be tricky.... i think id order another bearing just in case.

Glad you found it though .. if you see run out on the hub, imagine what is like by the time you get to the edge of the rotor !!!

even if you have to buy another bearing and hub , so what, you are still Miles ahead of taking it in and you learned something.

I ended up ordering the second hub with the raised bits, hopefully i can return the flat one although i did open the box and break the seal. It's weird because the flat one has a different part number but then when you look online it also says it comes under the part number i needed... strange.

So i've got a fresh bearing, should have a fresh hub tomorrow or the day after, then i'm going to take it to a garage and get them pressed together, put it back on and check for runout, which hopefully i won't find. I don't think it's worth using the old (new) damaged bearing just incase, i noticed it was leaking a bit of grease as well.


you are still Miles ahead of taking it in and you learned something.

Exactly! The missus has been moaning at me lol but this is what i told her. It's all a good learning experience. Plus, if i can return the incorrect hub then i'm only like £40 ($50) down from the battered bearing. A lot less than a shop would have charged.

[Jayz691]

Yeah, new bearing is a good idea. Could prob remove it, but if the race comes off, your stuck for a few more days..
Theres nothing wrong with that meyle one, bit whatever ya wanna use.. Don't matter what the back looks like.

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[Spetznaaz]

Just wanted to update in case anyone ever had the same issue. I put a new meyle hub and bearing on and tested the runout of the rotor (should have tested the hub really) - There was still a little bit but far less. Ever since i put these rotors on i have been getting a weird clicking type sound on braking. Never could diagnose it and it never went away but the brakes have been fine, so i'm thinking that the rotor(s) have always had a little bit of runout and that's what that clicking noise has been all along.

Anyway, put it all back together and i could spin the wheel much easier this time, although due to the runout there was a slight rub every rotation. Drove it and that horrible clunking noise has gone and everything feels fine, also the original hum / whirring that got louder with speed has gone so the original one was definitely bad. I reused my caliper bolts (with a bit of blue locktite) which i never normally do but they aren't cheap. Couldn't get the full 180 degrees on the axle bolt either, think i got about 90.

On to the next issue.