Spindle won't move

[hiwasss]

I replaced the strut and springs with Bilstein, and everything is connected except I can't get the upper control arms into the spindle. I can't push the spindle in any further and it'd 3-4" away from the upper control arms. The bolts for everything are in, just not tightened. Any suggestions on how to get the control arms into the spindle?321234321235

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[sepheroth86]

Floor jack on the lower arm to raise it up?

[hiwasss]

Floor jack on the lower arm to raise it up?I tried various heights and it won't move inward.

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[sepheroth86]

Try disconnecting the lower and installing upper first?

[Nillious]

Possibly pulled the cv joint apart. Just something that has happened to me a couple times over the years. The cv joint can come apart inside the boot. It’s not fun to get it back together. Hopefully this didn’t happen.

[sepheroth86]

Possibly pulled the cv joint apart. Just something that has happened to me a couple times over the years. The cv joint can come apart inside the boot. It’s not fun to get it back together. Hopefully this didn’t happen.

I was also thinking this could have happened to OP.

[hiwasss]

Possibly pulled the cv joint apart. Just something that has happened to me a couple times over the years. The cv joint can come apart inside the boot. It’s not fun to get it back together. Hopefully this didn’t happen.Is this how to check the cv joint? Around 7 minutes in is where it's put back together.
https://youtu.be/od2wfj76iFQ?si=KweRcdwKAhI4TOUo

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[A4Qwattro]

Possibly pulled the cv joint apart. Just something that has happened to me a couple times over the years. The cv joint can come apart inside the boot. It’s not fun to get it back together. Hopefully this didn’t happen.

Yep that will suck a$$ considering that normally the only way to loosen the axle bolt so you can take the joint off and get it back together is to have the car sitting on it's wheels and the parking brake engaged while you loosen the bolt with a breaker bar.

If OP did pull the joint over the circlip and off the shaft, then they will need to have someone get inside the car and stand on the brake pedal while they try and get the axle bolt off with a very powerful impact wrench. You need someone standing on the brake pedal to counter hold the wheel hub otherwise it will want to just spin.

Also if doing cv joint work, replace that circlip with OEM parts only. Usually, non-OEM circlips let the cv joint slip over the circlip more easily than the OEM circlip.

[hiwasss]

Possibly pulled the cv joint apart. Just something that has happened to me a couple times over the years. The cv joint can come apart inside the boot. It’s not fun to get it back together. Hopefully this didn’t happen.Can you tell by feeling the boot? I don't have the clamps on hand to put it back together.

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[Smac770]

The axle extension is done by the triple roller joint (the inside joint). Is that what you all are referring to? It would seem odd that the CV joint (the outer joint) could be pulled apart, but maybe you mean it's just been pulled out of place on the axle? Is it just one side with the issue? How does the axle look visually compared to the other side? If you hold the axle firm and move the spindle, does it appear the outer joint is moving relative to the axle middle?

For the brake pedal, just use a 1.5' 2x4 (I use those grab brackets that came with my QuickJacks) between the seat and pedal, move the seat forward to keep the pedal pressed. 40" 3/4" breaker bar handles the axle bolts just fine. But so does an impact (though that's no use for reinstalling). Screwdriver in the rotor vent slots can be used too; I do both mechanisms.

[A4Qwattro]

The axle extension is done by the triple roller joint (the inside joint). Is that what you all are referring to? It would seem odd that the CV joint (the outer joint) could be pulled apart, but maybe you mean it's just been pulled out of place on the axle? Is it just one side with the issue? How does the axle look visually compared to the other side? If you hold the axle firm and move the spindle, does it appear the outer joint is moving relative to the axle middle?

For the brake pedal, just use a 1.5' 2x4 (I use those grab brackets that came with my QuickJacks) between the seat and pedal, move the seat forward to keep the pedal pressed. 40" 3/4" breaker bar handles the axle bolts just fine. But so does an impact (though that's no use for reinstalling). Screwdriver in the rotor vent slots can be used too; I do both mechanisms.

I am thinking it's the outer joint that popped off (joint slipped over the crimped circlip on the axle shaft). There might be some partial spline engagement, but it might be behind the circlip now, or it could be popped out entirely in which case OP is going to need to also inspect and make sure that the ball cage didn't cock and let a ball fall out while he was messing with it.

One problem is the upright isn't attached at the top so it's going to want to monkey around if you breaker bar it.


You might be on to something though. It could be the inner joint as well.

[A4Qwattro]

Can you tell by feeling the boot? I don't have the clamps on hand to put it back together.

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Stick 1 wheel lug bolt in, and then try and rotate the wheel hub (using the brake disk). (If manual, you need to put car in a gear but if S-tronic then just put car in park). If the joint is engaged, you won't be able to turn the brake disk because it's trying to rotate the drivetrain. If the joint separated, you will be able to rotate the brake disk because the joint is no longer conncted to the drivetrain.

[Nillious]

Do not rotate the wheel while in park. If the joint is separated you will tear the boot.

[A4Qwattro]

Do not rotate the wheel while in park. If the joint is separated you will tear the boot.

You’d have to be pretty reckless to manage to tear the boot before realizing that that the joint is separated from the shaft. We are only talking a very small amount of rotation, 1-2 degrees, at which point it’s obvious just by watching the boot. It’s either just starting to stretch immediately, or it’s not.

I should mention you may also observe a limbo state where the spline on axle shaft is partially engaged on the cj joint but not past the circlip like it needs to be. So you’d get drive through the transmission from the brake rotor test, but still not be able to push the upright back to the control arms.

Will probably end up having to take the joint apart.

[hiwasss]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I've been busy preparing for Christmas and haven't had a chance to work on the car. From visual inspection, the boots are identical on both sides of the car. The next test is to rotate the brake rotor to see if the side connecting to the transmission also rotates?

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[A4Qwattro]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I've been busy preparing for Christmas and haven't had a chance to work on the car. From visual inspection, the boots are identical on both sides of the car. The next test is to rotate the brake rotor to see if the side connecting to the transmission also rotates?

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Yes and make sure you put a wheel lug bolt in (two of them actually), otherwise the brake rotor won't turn the wheel hub which is what you need for the test.

Some other possibilities:

1) Have you double checked that you have the correct shocks from Bilstein? If they are too long, then you will also have this problem. Perhaps you have somehow managed to get shocks for an SQ5 instead of an S4.

Are you having the problem on both sides of the car? If so, then I think the shocks are your problem, not the CV joints. 1 CV joint popping would be unusual but not impossible. Both joints on both sides of the car coming out is basically unheard of unless you were reckless when disassembling and pushing the spindles out of the way for shock clearance.

[hiwasss]

Yes and make sure you put a wheel lug bolt in (two of them actually), otherwise the brake rotor won't turn the wheel hub which is what you need for the test.

Some other possibilities:

1) Have you double checked that you have the correct shocks from Bilstein? If they are too long, then you will also have this problem. Perhaps you have somehow managed to get shocks for an SQ5 instead of an S4.


Also, are you having the problem on both sides of the car? If so, then I think the shocks are your problem, not the CV joints. 1 CV joint popping would be unusual but not impossible. Both joints on both sides of the car is basically unheard of unless you intentionally popped them.I bought the BILSTEIN B12 (PRO-KIT) which is compatible with the B8. This is the first side I'm working on and didn't want to move to the other side until the issue is fixed.

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[hiwasss]

It appears the CV joint is still connected. I couldn't rotate the brake rotor any further but the whole unit rotates. Any other suggestions besides putting the old strut and spring back in?321337

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[hiwasss]

The following instructions allowed me to move the spindle inward.

" joint popped out a bit. Try rotating the axle a little as you move the top part of the knuckle in and out. It should pop back in."

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