2023 What have we learned about WMI?

[FknMuven]

Hours of searching and I haven't gotten many solid answers. Haven't seen anyone in the 10s yet who isn't running a meth kit. So what have we learned? Single 1000cc at TB, dual setup by air filter and post TB, start at 8psi end around 20psi?

[JRYtheS4]

I was just talking with Shane Horning about this, he recommended I spray 500-1000cc in the intake tube. He's put down 578awhp. There's actually quite a bit of info on here about wmi. Problem is it's buried in really long threads. The jist I get from my research is, it's not complicated.

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[Smac770]

Oh, so this isn't about Windows Management Instrumentation. Got cha.

[Izzyz28]

Do what Shane said.......spray 500-1,000 CC right into the intake tube, keep it simple, no need for all this exotic bullshit people keep dreaming up during pipe dreams. You'll see a reduction in IAT of approximately 5-8 degrees Celcius(no, it won't drop below ambient, cute thought though), and it will suppress detonation like a mother******, allowing you to run a 104 file on 93 Octane piss water + meth if you like. If you don't already have detonation or timing pull, spraying will only slow you down unless timing or boost are increased.

Edit: you can use a Hobbs switch, a ramp-up controller for W/M vs boost, or kill yourself trying to set up some completely unnecessary 3D map for "precise" control.

[RoofRails]

Hours of searching and I haven't gotten many solid answers. Haven't seen anyone in the 10s yet who isn't running a meth kit. So what have we learned? Single 1000cc at TB, dual setup by air filter and post TB, start at 8psi end around 20psi?What I have learned is that less is more. Don't go into this thinking you're going to fire off 1200cc of meth and drop your peak IAT 20C it's not going to happen. If you need more than 500cc because you make real power, then break up the nozzles into 2 different locations. Some people like the air filter and the throttle body, and some of us like the throttle body and the bypass elbow. Avoid running pre mixed W/M loaded with dyes. That stuff can coat components and lead to a blockage or fouling up your IC bricks. If you have an automatic, then you will benefit from 034s wmi file. The boost stays pegged in an auto, so fuel trims will go rich right after the shift and clear out at the towards the top of the RPMs. Starting at 8 and ending at 20 is a very good starting point for a progressive controller. You will get the most out of your wmi system if you are willing to log pulls and adjust your nozzles and / or your set points so your STFT are -20 or less. No one that I have seen has been able to get a plate kit (SRM) to function at a high level. I'm not saying it won't happen, but I have yet to see it. Of you are dead set against pushing wmi though your rotor pack then 6 well placed nozzles in the top of the SC hat are a good option. You will get even less cooling benefits vs the pre rotor set-ups, but it will work very well for additional fueling and an Octane boost. I Honestly believe that the loss of rotor coating is from large nozzles firing poorly atomized droplets through the rotors and cause them to wear prematurely. I use the snow performance kit with the pod style controller, and I'm not going to lie it's fun to see that guage light up with boost pressure and the spray amount. Just one more piece of theater in the cabin with me. I probably have more, but my thumbs are cramping [emoji854].

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[EvolutionArmory]

Has anyone used the Torqbyte controller and used RPM as the spray trigger instead of boost?

Using RPM seems like a better way to trigger your spray and keep your fuel trims from being rich at shifts. That way you could trigger your spray start at like 3.5K and full at like 6K and make adjustments to it by logging your timing pull and fuel trims easier since it won’t be controlled by boost anymore.

Any thoughts on that?

[RoofRails]

Has anyone used the Torqbyte controller and used RPM as the spray trigger instead of boost?

Using RPM seems like a better way to trigger your spray and keep your fuel trims from being rich at shifts. That way you could trigger your spray start at like 3.5K and full at like 6K and make adjustments to it by logging your timing pull and fuel trims easier since it won’t be controlled by boost anymore.

Any thoughts on that?I think that's a great idea. I have mentioned it before and people will push back that it's overcomplicating things. The only thing I would add is it should use both rpm and boost. So your building a a table just like the ECU tuning that says at XXXX rpm and XX psi the pray should be XX%. Aquamist even goes a step more by adding the injector duty cycle. For someone that doesn't have access to a wmi tune this would be the way to go to get around the losses immediately after the shifts and to fine tune the delivery. Before seeing my own wmi logs I didn't fully understand the issue created with the automatics so I didn't see a need for the more advanced controller. Luckily the 034 wmi file corrected that issue. I would still love to upgrade to a torquebite but it's tough now that I have a kit purchased, installed and working. There was one for sale on the classifieds a few months ago and I was seriously considering snatching it up.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Another cool thing about the TB controller is I believe you can run a 2 stage set up with one pump because you can wire in multiple solenoids so you could run 6 very small nozzles right on the top of the blower for the majority of your meth spray and then have a second stage mounted in the intake wherever you want that could be triggered at really high RPM to do any quick fine tuning.


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[RoofRails]

Another cool thing about the TB controller is I believe you can run a 2 stage set up with one pump because you can wire in multiple solenoids so you could run 6 very small nozzles right on the top of the blower for the majority of your meth spray and then have a second stage mounted in the intake wherever you want that could be triggered at really high RPM to do any quick fine tuning.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Yes, that's a nice touch. Certain Snow Performance controlers have that as well. Mine has it but I haven't taken advantage of it as of yet. I have the wires ran out into the fire wall area if I ever want to play with it.

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[EvolutionArmory]

I think that's a great idea. I have mentioned it before and people will push back that it's overcomplicating things. The only thing I would add is it should use both rpm and boost. So your building a a table just like the ECU tuning that says at XXXX rpm and XX psi the pray should be XX%. Aquamist even goes a step more by adding the injector duty cycle. For someone that doesn't have access to a wmi tune this would be the way to go to get around the losses immediately after the shifts and to fine tune the delivery. Before seeing my own wmi logs I didn't fully understand the issue created with the automatics so I didn't see a need for the more advanced controller. Luckily the 034 wmi file corrected that issue. I would still love to upgrade to a torquebite but it's tough now that I have a kit purchased, installed and working. There was one for sale on the classifieds a few months ago and I was seriously considering snatching it up.

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I think that’s what I’m going to do. Run 6 nozzles on top of the blower and one in the boost noodle to fine tune the mixture without spraying a ridiculous amount of juice and run the TB controller.

This way I’ll have super even distribution, have a better chance of my IAT sensors seeing the temp drop plus I’ll be able to lower my intake air temp going in and help compressor map efficiency with the boost noodle nozzle. Even if the IAT sensor doesn’t register the temp drop as well as it should, at least I’ll be spraying post compressor and the combustion and EGT temps will be lower.

Spraying meth into your intake is basically like lowering your DA chemically but with 7 nozzles I think I’ll be able to run meth as efficiently as possible with this car.

Fred, boost based controllers only really work well on big turbos with lag. I run the VC 50 in my K04 A4 and that turbo reaches 20 PSI at 2500 so it just sprays and sprays like what happens with our cars.

At least my A4 is manual so it’s not spraying 100% for the whole pull.

You should try the TB controller. Be a trailblazer [emoji3] The VC 50 is a decent controller but I don’t think it’s the proper controller for this platform.


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[BrokeBichB8]

What I have learned is that less is more. Don't go into this thinking you're going to fire off 1200cc of meth and drop your peak IAT 20C it's not going to happen. If you need more than 500cc because you make real power, then break up the nozzles into 2 different locations. Some people like the air filter and the throttle body, and some of us like the throttle body and the bypass elbow. Avoid running pre mixed W/M loaded with dyes. That stuff can coat components and lead to a blockage or fouling up your IC bricks. If you have an automatic, then you will benefit from 034s wmi file. The boost stays pegged in an auto, so fuel trims will go rich right after the shift and clear out at the towards the top of the RPMs. Starting at 8 and ending at 20 is a very good starting point for a progressive controller. You will get the most out of your wmi system if you are willing to log pulls and adjust your nozzles and / or your set points so your STFT are -20 or less. No one that I have seen has been able to get a plate kit (SRM) to function at a high level. I'm not saying it won't happen, but I have yet to see it. Of you are dead set against pushing wmi though your rotor pack then 6 well placed nozzles in the top of the SC hat are a good option. You will get even less cooling benefits vs the pre rotor set-ups, but it will work very well for additional fueling and an Octane boost. I Honestly believe that the loss of rotor coating is from large nozzles firing poorly atomized droplets through the rotors and cause them to wear prematurely. I use the snow performance kit with the pod style controller, and I'm not going to lie it's fun to see that guage light up with boost pressure and the spray amount. Just one more piece of theater in the cabin with me. I probably have more, but my thumbs are cramping [emoji854].

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

I think a step further, that the loss of rotor coating comes from frozen meth ice spray hitting the rotors at high speed, almost like dry ice blasting.