Never Ending Boost Leak

[Evandoe]

Hi everyone for the last few weeks ive been chasing a boost leak. The car has already been smoke tested at a shop last week and it is going to another shop this friday for more testing.

Water meth was installed and tapped into the intake manifold, turbos system wastegates were installed. And a custom tune was created for me trying to push the car to 36psi but I was leaking so boost was turned down to 31psi as the target but I can only achieve 27psi at most.

My first issue was a torn throttle body gasket 279239
I replaced this and was still left with a 5psi leak

My second issue was then a torn Turbo Systems wastegate membrane
279240

My third issue was a missing throttle body bolt unfortunately the threads in the plastic are stripped so the bolt does not tighten. Does anyone know how to fix this and a part number for our 4.0t throttle body bolts?

Then the car was brought to a shop and they found a large hose coming off my intlets going to the passenger dv was leaking. No other leaks were found vacuum or boost at 5psi on a smoke machine. Unfortunately this hose is never under boost and therefore cant be causing my leak. Regardless i will replace the hose on monday. 279241


Now im at a loss, as after all this I still have a 5psi boost leak. So this friday my car is going to another shop where they will do a smoke test at 30psi where hopefully ill finally find the actual leak. My tuner is starting to worry that my manifold is cracked after the meth install. Any help with this problem would be appreciated.

[Alabama]

Sorry, I have no idea, but I'm curious. You've had more than your share of mechanical problems this year. Any thought why?

[Evandoe]

Sorry, I have no idea, but I'm curious. You've had more than your share of mechanical problems this year. Any thought why?

Seems like I didnt do my due diligence when buying a high milage s6. And im pushing the car to its limits hunting for a 9 sec quarter mile so all the weak points are bound to expose themselves. It could quite possibly be because I do most of my mods on my own and im a 21 year old kid plying with my first v8 and im certainly no mechanic so i break a lot of things and have to learn along the way.

[sepheroth86]

I don't think it is an age thing. I think it is more of a Germans like to make things out of plastic that gets brittle with heat cycles and if you touch them, they break.

[Valpo A7]

If the TB was metal then I would say go with a Helicoil thread repair kit. Not sure it would work with plastic. Of course you can always take the bolt to Ace Hardware and figure out the size. You can then up size slightly and tap for the new bolt.

[Evandoe]

If the TB was metal then I would say go with a Helicoil thread repair kit. Not sure it would work with plastic. Of course you can always take the bolt to Ace Hardware and figure out the size. You can then up size slightly and tap for the new bolt.

Ive been doing some research and some people suggested filling the hole with plastic weld epoxy and then drilling a hole smaller than the bolt and then just threading the new one in. I think this would work decently considering that for the 4.0t our tb bolts are self tappers with the tip cut off.

[Valpo A7]

The only issue I see with that is dirt/oil in the hole preventing a good bond. Maybe drill it larger out the fill the hole if you suspect contamination.

What does the book say for torque spec on that bolt? I would guess you would be fine for about 15 Nm at best for strength.

These work for stripped holes in wood, might work for plastic.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/screws-and-anchors/anchors/5002837

[THCarpenter]

Ive been doing some research and some people suggested filling the hole with plastic weld epoxy and then drilling a hole smaller than the bolt and then just threading the new one in. I think this would work decently considering that for the 4.0t our tb bolts are self tappers with the tip cut off.

I think this would be a great idea.....it might be time to pull the front off and do it, so you can line everything up though.....maybe you can check your WMI injectors as well to see if the plenum is cracked

[Evandoe]

The only issue I see with that is dirt/oil in the hole preventing a good bond. Maybe drill it larger out the fill the hole if you suspect contamination.

What does the book say for torque spec on that bolt? I would guess you would be fine for about 15 Nm at best for strength.

These work for stripped holes in wood, might work for plastic.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/screws-and-anchors/anchors/5002837

Hmm i will give that a try it couldnt hurt id imagine. Now i just need to get my hands on another bolt as i couldnt find a local hardware store with any. And im not sure what the torque spec is ill have to find a service manual for that.

[Evandoe]

I think this would be a great idea.....it might be time to pull the front off and do it, so you can line everything up though.....maybe you can check your WMI injectors as well to see if the plenum is cracked

Yeah unfortunately that is my plan, i wish it wasnt such a pain to get to the plenum.

[Audibellybutton]

Seems like I didnt do my due diligence when buying a high milage s6. And im pushing the car to its limits hunting for a 9 sec quarter mile so all the weak points are bound to expose themselves. It could quite possibly be because I do most of my mods on my own and im a 21 year old kid plying with my first v8 and im certainly no mechanic so i break a lot of things and have to learn along the way.

I'm exactly the same way. I am addicted to building used boosted germans, this is not my first though. But yeah don't get discouraged. Definitely do the due dilligence always, but from here out take it one step at a time, you'll find the boost leak, fix it and itll be in the past. 9 seconds could be just around the corner for you

[Botbasher]

The only issue I see with that is dirt/oil in the hole preventing a good bond. Maybe drill it larger out the fill the hole if you suspect contamination.

What does the book say for torque spec on that bolt? I would guess you would be fine for about 15 Nm at best for strength.

These work for stripped holes in wood, might work for plastic.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/screws-and-anchors/anchors/5002837

Why not just redo them with the same bits we use in 3D Printing and add a ton of strength as well?? I have tested a few of these at better than 30psi (about 150lbs of total force) for hours on end without failure. The one with the alternating threads (middle) is my absolute favorite! I broke the most parts trying to pull that one out!

When, not if, I damage a couple of the stupid plastic holes Audi bean counters blessed us with, these are what I am going to use! Tons of strength and I get to use machine threaded bolts! [wrench]

https://www.spirol.com/product/threaded-inserts-for-plastics/

https://www.spirol.com/assets/images/content/threaded_inserts_for_plastics.png

Cheers,

KS

[Evandoe]

Why not just redo them with the same bits we use in 3D Printing and add a ton of strength as well?? I have tested a few of these at better than 30psi (about 150lbs of total force) for hours on end without failure. The one with the alternating threads (middle) is my absolute favorite! I broke the most parts trying to pull that one out!

When, not if, I damage a couple of the stupid plastic holes Audi bean counters blessed us with, these are what I am going to use! Tons of strength and I get to use machine threaded bolts! [wrench]

https://www.spirol.com/product/threaded-inserts-for-plastics/

https://www.spirol.com/assets/images/content/threaded_inserts_for_plastics.png

Cheers,

KS

Those sound really cool but i have no clue what the treads are on the throttle body bolts so how would i order some?

[Valpo A7]

If you can take a bolt to ACE they should have a wall of nuts and bolts that you can test fit your bolt or nut on to determine bolt size and thread pitch.

[Evandoe]

If you can take a bolt to ACE they should have a wall of nuts and bolts that you can test fit your bolt or nut on to determine bolt size and thread pitch.

Yeah i tired that with home depot, ace, and lowes. Unfortunately no one had anything even close. This bolt is very mysterious but i was able to order another one from audi.

[Botbasher]

Those sound really cool but i have no clue what the treads are on the throttle body bolts so how would i order some?

Doesn't matter what threads they WERE... order the threads/length you want. You are not reusing the current plastic threads. You are melting them and using them as glue for metal inserts with their own thread! The "threads" on the outside of the inserts are just anchors.

Those inserts come in every thread/pitch imaginable. You simple heat them up... stab them in and POOF!!! Machine threads!

Here are some 6mm which would be similar to all other hardware in the motor!

https://www.amazon.com/initeq-M6-1-0-Threaded-Inserts-Printing/dp/B077P4BJPK/ref=asc_df_B077P4BJPK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241963341745&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2325659402259983975&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009567&hvtargid=pla-469242379855&psc=1

Skip to 1:40 for the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoAji1iq_nk

Cheers!

KS

[Evandoe]

Unfortunately the mr grip things didnt work and i managed to strip another set of threads on the tb. Why audi thought it was a good idea to make such a high importance piece out of plastic is beyond me. Im trying some jb weld plastic weld in the original hole. If it works ill have to do the same process again tomorrow.

[Alabama]

Why audi thought it was a good idea to make such a high importance piece out of plastic is beyond me.

Maybe they took the advice given to the Dustin Hoffman character in The Graduate. Good luck with the plastic weld.

[THCarpenter]

sorry to hear that bud.

Sounds like you had the plenum out, were you able to check your WMI fittings and see if that was an issue?

[Evandoe]

So i figured i should make an update on my situation.

The stripped throttle body bolts were fixed by some m6x1.0 helicoil I had left over. Yet boost leak still remains. At this point im almost certain its my intake plenum or air guide as audi calls it. Though I have still not had the time to tear into the car and inspect it.

Luckily for me 4 new issues have popped up. Those being 279837
279838
279839
279841


I have a few thoughts and questions about these codes.

1. For the IAT sensor where is this located is it one of the small sensors under the throttle body or is it located somewhere else.

2. As for the diverter valves this code has been present for quite some time but i know the cause is from broken electrical connector clips breaking off allowing the connector to slide off whenever it wants. Im probably going to duct tape the shit out of them or maybe ill order some empty connectors and swap the pins over. Question though, could this code cause the DV to malfunction and stick open causing my leak?

3. I would honestly dedicate a whole thread just to this code and what I believe to be the culprit the QRC hellcat pump. I have never made a bigger mistake then buying this pump. So far Ive swapped the hydramat, the sending unit, the fuel level sensor, the oem pump its attached to, and replaced a hose clamp that holds the fuel lines together as it slipped off once before causing the same code. Ill most likely check tomorrow to see if the line has slipped off again. 279840
Please everyone do yourself a favor and avoid this pump at all costs.

4. This code for underboost finally came on. I guess the boost leak got worse or something, but this code activated my epc. I will be clearing all of them tomorrow and doing some logs to see if they were a fluke

Anyways thats how things have been going lately still looking for any advice possible. Maybe I should have made a build thread to show the process of my pita build aiming for 9s.

[hunter_killer]

I’ll be checking in to see what you find for that bypass valve control code…my car just sprang that up a few weekends ago racing, but I haven’t had a whole lot of time to dig into it.


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[THCarpenter]

3. I would honestly dedicate a whole thread just to this code and what I believe to be the culprit the QRC hellcat pump. I have never made a bigger mistake then buying this pump. So far Ive swapped the hydramat, the sending unit, the fuel level sensor, the oem pump its attached to, and replaced a hose clamp that holds the fuel lines together as it slipped off once before causing the same code. Ill most likely check tomorrow to see if the line has slipped off again. 279840
Please everyone do yourself a favor and avoid this pump at all costs.


I returned mine after hearing from multiple people the headache associated with this, and the common failure points from 3 different people.

Im not conveying a Shit on Nick thread, but this pump was supposed to fit the gap between tapping your tank and adding an inline pump and the SRM Dual LPFP behemoth

[Evandoe]

I returned mine after hearing from multiple people the headache associated with this, and the common failure points from 3 different people.

Im not conveying a Shit on Nick thread, but this pump was supposed to fit the gap between tapping your tank and adding an inline pump and the SRM Dual LPFP behemoth

Yeah im sure his other stuff is fine but my early version of this pump hasnt been very fun. I wish there were more options for our cars.

[Evandoe]

I’ll be checking in to see what you find for that bypass valve control code…my car just sprang that up a few weekends ago racing, but I haven’t had a whole lot of time to dig into it.


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So it seems that this code will happen for a few reasons. The fuse for the dv is blown, the wires are torn or disconnected at some point or the electrical connectors arent holding onto the dv. In my case on both sides the locking clips are broken and the harness is pulling itself off the connector. Zip ties nor electrical tape would hold them on after a pull so my other thoughts would be to repin a new harness or just super glue the them down.

[oreopride]

You’ve checked all the usual turbo suspects for typical boost leaks, but from context clues (and me looking at your other recent posts lol) it seems like you have a high mileage S6 and have out some awesome mods on it.

Manifold is still your most-likely candidate but it wouldn’t hurt to have the FMIC checked during the boost leak test (especially if it’s original). I’m out of my depth and have no idea how overbuilt/underbuilt the 4.0s stock one is but a FMIC core leak is one of those headaches that cause people to check everything except it.

[Evandoe]

You’ve checked all the usual turbo suspects for typical boost leaks, but from context clues (and me looking at your other recent posts lol) it seems like you have a high mileage S6 and have out some awesome mods on it.

Manifold is still your most-likely candidate but it wouldn’t hurt to have the FMIC checked during the boost leak test (especially if it’s original). I’m out of my depth and have no idea how overbuilt/underbuilt the 4.0s stock one is but a FMIC core leak is one of those headaches that cause people to check everything except it.

Thanks so much ive put a lot of my heart into this car and pushing for 9s in the quarter on a high mileage car was definitely a risk. Im glad you mentioned this but I do have some questions. When you say fmic do you mean the plastic portion or the actual metal core inside the plastic housing and i thought only coolant ran through that while air ran over the fins cooling the air inside the housing? Although i could be very incorrect but regardless ill have them check that.

[oreopride]

Sorry, my original reply was lazy because I was using my phone (and had a kicking baby in the other hand).

I'm stealing this picture from this thread:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/847653-Chareg-Cooler-Removal

Also, I'm guilty of what someone in that thread mentioned: I use "intercooler" when referencing the "heat exchanger" (which is the correct terminology of these cars). So this should be in front of the radiator and I'm assuming this is what the stock one looks like:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=111766&d=1553002319

If you spray it with soapy water on the front (the fins in the middle and the intakes), start the car, then rev the motor a little, there's a chance you'll see some bubbles form. Congrats, you found an easy leak in an unusual place! The problem is if it's between the fins and the end tank (basically, the fins connecting to the solid metal pieces) then it probably doesn't show up on the bubble test. Same with if the leak is behind the heat exchanger; you might not see bubbling in the front that faces you but it might be happening on the part that faces the radiator i.e. out of view.

You mentioned you were taking it in for a smoke test to check for the leak; I've never been a participant in one of those but I would hope the leak would show up on said test. It's just when it comes to turbo systems leaking (after putting aftermarket stuff in) my order has always been (1) Broken gasket on a new part (2) Vacuum line not connected right (3) cheap BOV sticking open (some other numbers) blah blah blah (7) cracked manifold (some other numbers) blah blah blah (15) leaking Front Mount Intercooler/Heat Exchanger.

It's a least-likely culprit so nobody checks but if you've checked pretty much all the usual suspects it's worth looking at. Especially if you ran a bunch of boost through it, it's original to the car, and it's high mileage.

[hunter_killer]

Sorry, my original reply was lazy because I was using my phone (and had a kicking baby in the other hand).

I'm stealing this picture from this thread:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/847653-Chareg-Cooler-Removal

Also, I'm guilty of what someone in that thread mentioned: I use "intercooler" when referencing the "heat exchanger" (which is the correct terminology of these cars). So this should be in front of the radiator and I'm assuming this is what the stock one looks like:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=111766&d=1553002319

If you spray it with soapy water on the front (the fins in the middle and the intakes), start the car, then rev the motor a little, there's a chance you'll see some bubbles form. Congrats, you found an easy leak in an unusual place! The problem is if it's between the fins and the end tank (basically, the fins connecting to the solid metal pieces) then it probably doesn't show up on the bubble test. Same with if the leak is behind the heat exchanger; you might not see bubbling in the front that faces you but it might be happening on the part that faces the radiator i.e. out of view.

You mentioned you were taking it in for a smoke test to check for the leak; I've never been a participant in one of those but I would hope the leak would show up on said test. It's just when it comes to turbo systems leaking (after putting aftermarket stuff in) my order has always been (1) Broken gasket on a new part (2) Vacuum line not connected right (3) cheap BOV sticking open (some other numbers) blah blah blah (7) cracked manifold (some other numbers) blah blah blah (15) leaking Front Mount Intercooler/Heat Exchanger.

It's a least-likely culprit so nobody checks but if you've checked pretty much all the usual suspects it's worth looking at. Especially if you ran a bunch of boost through it, it's original to the car, and it's high mileage.

The heat exchanger on these cars has coolant running through it. No need for soapy water when you’d see a coolant leak first [emoji6] (unless the OP has a A2A)


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[Evandoe]

Got the car back from a second shop they did a 50psi smoke test and just my luck nothing found. The mechanic a 10 year audi master tech believes its my diverter valves blowing open but its just a theory. So now with their opinion ive concluded that its either my manifold or the dv as these are the only parts left i havent replaced. If it is my dv blowing open do I upgrade to the forge motorsport offering as the car already has the d revision valves or do i just replace with new d revsion?

[sepheroth86]

$8.

[Alabama]

If it is my dv blowing open do I upgrade to the forge motorsport offering as the car already has the d revision valves or do i just replace with new d revsion?

Does Forge make one for the 4.0T? I don't see it on their website.

[Evandoe]

Does Forge make one for the 4.0T? I don't see it on their website.

I know for sure they used to sells for around 375 but its for the rs7

[Evandoe]

$8.

Hmmmmm maybe a little more than 8 lol

[THCarpenter]

I saw that Andrew Kerobo is selling his intake Plenum and IC brick over on FB.....if you are interested in it....hes in Ohio, so not that far off from you....but....its in Ohio....lol

[hunter_killer]

Do the diverter valves have a life expectancy? Aside from a noticeable boost leak, is there anything a guy could log to see what condition they are in? I’m just curious now that I’m thinking because my car has almost 154k and I haven’t checked to see if mine are D revision or not. ECS has some DV on sale with “upgraded” pistons for like $56 a piece.


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[Botbasher]

Do the diverter valves have a life expectancy? Aside from a noticeable boost leak, is there anything a guy could log to see what condition they are in? I’m just curious now that I’m thinking because my car has almost 154k and I haven’t checked to see if mine are D revision or not. ECS has some DV on sale with “upgraded” pistons for like $56 a piece.

Why not use the GFB DV+ upgrades? It's a minor pain on the V8, needing just a little bit of machining on a protruding part of the head on one side. It sounds way more complicated than it is and the benefits are well worth it.

These are in common use on 2.0TFSIs and I have run it up to 27psi without issue. Many are well past that! The piston design removes the diaphram from the equation and allows high boost holding and nearly instant let off!

At $30/ea (with a little smart shopping) it's a no brainer for high boost applications.

Cheers,

KS

[THCarpenter]

https://www.gfbuk.com/product.details.cfm?productid=1027

this one?

and how would you go about removing/fabricating?

[Audibellybutton]

Do the diverter valves have a life expectancy? Aside from a noticeable boost leak, is there anything a guy could log to see what condition they are in? I’m just curious now that I’m thinking because my car has almost 154k and I haven’t checked to see if mine are D revision or not. ECS has some DV on sale with “upgraded” pistons for like $56 a piece.


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No lie I am wondering this too, after a lot of reading ive found that these are failure prone, but aside from a boost leak, I cant find anyone reporting any other noticeable symptoms. I'm thinking about updating mine just because I'm stage 3 and people say they can go bad on stock boost levels. Of course I want all the boost so its a small fix, but I'm also wondering what else I can do to see if they are bad.

For OP, at your boost levels, and the fact you havent upgraded them, it is very possible this could be the source of your boost leak, or at least one of them. Def something that could narrow it down for you.

[Evandoe]

No lie I am wondering this too, after a lot of reading ive found that these are failure prone, but aside from a boost leak, I cant find anyone reporting any other noticeable symptoms. I'm thinking about updating mine just because I'm stage 3 and people say they can go bad on stock boost levels. Of course I want all the boost so its a small fix, but I'm also wondering what else I can do to see if they are bad.

For OP, at your boost levels, and the fact you havent upgraded them, it is very possible this could be the source of your boost leak, or at least one of them. Def something that could narrow it down for you.

Mine on the car currently are revision d valves. I ended up ordering new ones as they are relatively cheap and would either fix or confirm my issue is my intake plenum. There is a guy on fb running these at 42psi. So im just hoping the ones on the car are old and in need of replacement.

[hunter_killer]

Which engine (2.0 I’d assume) would you select for the DV+? Care to dive into what would need to be machined exactly? If you say machined, do you mean actual machining or just grinding/ cutting off for clearance? Supposedly I’m getting up to 35psi of peak boost so when I have some spare cash I’ll consider upgrading or changing out my DV’s since I have the code for them. (My connector also broke so that is probably the cause, but never hurts to upgrade right?)


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[Botbasher]

Which engine (2.0 I’d assume) would you select for the DV+? Care to dive into what would need to be machined exactly? If you say machined, do you mean actual machining or just grinding/ cutting off for clearance? Supposedly I’m getting up to 35psi of peak boost so when I have some spare cash I’ll consider upgrading or changing out my DV’s since I have the code for them. (My connector also broke so that is probably the cause, but never hurts to upgrade right?)

Just a bit of grinding. There is a little tab that needs to be cut off. In the 2.0 the are horizontal and nothing in the way, but because ours are inverted, you need some extra clearance. One side fits OK, but the other (Pass) hits this little tab.

Here's a thread with some info on the valves... https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/863870-Diverter-valves-I-needs-ta-know?highlight=fast+bits

Here's the thread with the pics of what you actually need to mod.... https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/868285-DV-mod-I-have-not-seen-on-a-4-0T-before-(GFB-DV-)?highlight=fast+bits

The difference on the 2.0 was surprising. Much sharper let off (no fluttering) with great holding power under boost!

$70 for the pair was hard to beat!! (https://www.ebay.com/itm/324306202757) I have gotten 3 of these now. A pair for the S6 and 2 for the A5s. All have worked perfectly!

Mine are on the bench and as soon as I get the recall issues settled, they are going on!

Hope this helps!

KS

[hunter_killer]

Thanks for the link for both install and parts! For that price I may do them sooner than later lol


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[Botbasher]

Thanks for the link for both install and parts! For that price I may do them sooner than later lol

Exactly!! Hope that helps you figure it out! Looking forward to the results!

Cheers,

KS

[Evandoe]

Swapped to new revision d diverter valves and fixed the sensors. This made a huge change in my boost leak but unfortunately im still around 4 psi off target. Last thing to check is the manifold :(

[Audibellybutton]

Swapped to new revision d diverter valves and fixed the sensors. This made a huge change in my boost leak but unfortunately im still around 4 psi off target. Last thing to check is the manifold :(

that should be a smiley face because even though you're 4 PSI off still, you are on the brink of solving the issue and you've gotten another weak point out the way.


On another note, what do you use to log your actual boost vs requested? I want to look at mine I'm wondering what parameters to select, but I have VCDS and Hptuners for logging, not DS1

[Evandoe]

that should be a smiley face because even though you're 4 PSI off still, you are on the brink of solving the issue and you've gotten another weak point out the way.


On another note, what do you use to log your actual boost vs requested? I want to look at mine I'm wondering what parameters to select, but I have VCDS and Hptuners for logging, not DS1

Thats true and im using ds2 datalogging software. So idk if the parameters are the same but i can send you a pic of my parameters if youd like.

[Audibellybutton]

Thats true and im using ds2 datalogging software. So idk if the parameters are the same but i can send you a pic of my parameters if youd like.

Thanks man that would actually be great, Im sure I can compare and find the corresponding ones on my software

[Evandoe]

Thanks man that would actually be great, Im sure I can compare and find the corresponding ones on my software

280586
These are all the parameters i currently log for a quick overview on my car.

[Audibellybutton]

280586
These are all the parameters i currently log for a quick overview on my car.

thanks! im gonna do some logs on mine and see if its hitting the target boost

[hunter_killer]

281031
GFB DV+ parts showed up along with my new DV connector. Might try and do these this weekend if I can. I’ll report back once I get them installed and test drive.


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[Botbasher]

281031
GFB DV+ parts showed up along with my new DV connector. Might try and do these this weekend if I can. I’ll report back once I get them installed and test drive.

Good stuff there!!!

Just be very mindful of the springs. They are almost identical! Somehow I got mine mixed up on the A5 and it caused issues! Got me so flustered trying to figure out which was which, I actually bought another and kept the parts totally separate. POOF!!! Problem gone, so I know that was it!

Hope that solves the issue for ya!

KS

[Evandoe]

281031
GFB DV+ parts showed up along with my new DV connector. Might try and do these this weekend if I can. I’ll report back once I get them installed and test drive.


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Yeah good luck with those. My new rev d valves seem to have fixed my issues thus far but my tuner is taking things slow and making lots of small changes to my tune to confirm that its actually gone. Just yesterday I tested almost 10 new revisions.

[hunter_killer]

I’ll take my time swapping these out and avoid messing up with the springs. Thanks for the heads up!

I hope your boost leak is fixed with the new DV’s. I wish I had more time in my day to go out and log data, but it’s hard to come by. I’ll just have to see if it feels better when driving and maybe do a quick look with OBD11 to see if my peak boost is still the same from previous views. I’m on APR so no revisions for me or adjustments to help out.


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[oreopride]

The heat exchanger on these cars has coolant running through it. No need for soapy water when you’d see a coolant leak first [emoji6] (unless the OP has a A2A)


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I was not aware! Thanks for the heads up.

I'm subscribed at this point because I have to know what's going on with this car.

[hunter_killer]

282310
282311
Got my GFB DV+ installed. Here’s how much I had to trim off the D/S and the P/S needed the same valve cover section removed to fit the new DV. Also with RS7 inlets the connector is very close and was rubbing but I filed down the connector a bit to clear it. I haven’t driven my car yet but hopefully tomorrow I can and will report back.


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[Audibellybutton]

thanks to evandoe's thread and some logs I found out I too have a pretty massive boost leak. around 4-5 psi. I didnt even know. I ended up buying some D revision diverter valves off amazon just to see if that was the issue. Immediately after installing the car felt snappier and held boost to redline way better. It also got rid of this "whooooo" that I would hear on let off. Unfortunately 2 days of heavy boosting later the car feels like it did before and the noise is back. So my next steps is to get the GVB diverter valves and do some logs with that on it. i will also run a boost leak test and see what I find. It sucks I didn't get to get a log right after installing the DV. That wouldve told me if it was the cause of the boost leak or not. But Ill find the answer for that soon

[sepheroth86]

Ethan,

Since you continue to have such terrible luck with the car. You should hook me up with it on the low low.

Go buy yourself a Corvette or Mustang.

[Audibellybutton]

Ethan,

Since you continue to have such terrible luck with the car. You should hook me up with it on the low low.

Go buy yourself a Corvette or Mustang.

Don’t think I’m quite there yet. I got the car for the low low in great condition with rs7 turbos on it 2 years ago with 48k miles on it. I was off forums for over a year enjoying problem free miles but now I’m around 90k miles I started to see some issues. Nothing bad enough to make me want to get rid of it yet… all in all for car ownership I’m probably about $1k in as far as repairs. I’ve seen people with much worse experiences though. I’ve changed my thermostat for $200 I fixed my ACC for $60, changed my diverter valves for $40. The rest has been on maintenance. For mods I spent 900 on the srm coolant pump alone, 900 for tcu tune, 1800 for the headlights so I’m definitely in deeper on mods than repairs. If I had to pay $3k+ on anything repair related I would probably get rid of it but so far it’s been great lol

As for my next car I will definitely get an S550 coupe and sorry but definitely not talking about the mustang
S6 has been so fire I will probably keep it for track when I get another car. Or pass it down to my lil brother

The car market should settle soon and I imagine you’ll be able to get into a 4.0t for the price that an a6 would cost right now.

[sepheroth86]

Don’t think I’m quite there yet. I got the car for the low low in great condition with rs7 turbos on it 2 years ago with 48k miles on it. I was off forums for over a year enjoying problem free miles but now I’m around 90k miles I started to see some issues. Nothing bad enough to make me want to get rid of it yet… all in all for car ownership I’m probably about $1k in as far as repairs. I’ve seen people with much worse experiences though. I’ve changed my thermostat for $200 I fixed my ACC for $60, changed my diverter valves for $40. The rest has been on maintenance. For mods I spent 900 on the srm coolant pump alone, 900 for tcu tune, 1800 for the headlights so I’m definitely in deeper on mods than repairs. If I had to pay $3k+ on anything repair related I would probably get rid of it but so far it’s been great lol

As for my next car I will definitely get an S550 coupe and sorry but definitely not talking about the mustang
S6 has been so fire I will probably keep it for track when I get another car. Or pass it down to my lil brother

The car market should settle soon and I imagine you’ll be able to get into a 4.0t for the price that an a6 would cost right now.

Ethan is the OP. He is local to me.

[Audibellybutton]

Ethan is the OP. He is local to me.

Damn my bad lol I thought his name was Evan. I was like damn I must have overstated my issues on audizine lol

[sepheroth86]

Damn my bad lol I thought his name was Evan. I was like damn I must have overstated my issues on audizine lol

No worries.

I am deep into mine currently. It has been on jack stands for about a month. Part of that is supply chain related, but still. 😁

[Audibellybutton]

No worries.

I am deep into mine currently. It has been on jack stands for about a month. Part of that is supply chain related, but still. 😁

She'll rise again soon! the C7 platform is worth the minor headaches that may come along the way,