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cmontboober
09-16-2006, 07:13 PM
hey everyone, just bought my car, 2000 A4 fwd, and just found out the control arms need to be replaced (both front upper). the car has pretty low milage and i was wondering if i should replace both upper control arms now, meaning both uppers on the left wheel and both uppers on the rights wheel, front two wheels. And is there is a better brand to go with so that i don't have to replace them again every so often. Also, do the bottom control arms go bad as often as the uppers, or do they typically last longer? thanks

burner799
09-16-2006, 08:02 PM
SEARCH....id replace it all though.

cmontboober
09-16-2006, 11:32 PM
Originally posted by burner799
SEARCH....id replace it all though.

did search, found nothing on the failure of lower control arms....which lead me to believe that they don't go bad like the uppers, anybody know?

burner799
09-17-2006, 12:16 AM
I remember this topic covered a lot.......must have been lost with the rest of the stuff. I hope somebody chimes in with the facts.

Wholsea
09-17-2006, 04:02 AM
The lowers go bad as well..

In fact the "recall" by audi was on the lowers...

Might as well replace them all...

PAP-Parts "Super" control Arm kit...

$445, includes all arms, sway bar links, tie rod ends, and all the required hardware...

Call 1.800.944.2964, ask for Scott, tell him Ben sent you, he'll hook you up.

http://www.pap-parts.com/images/8D0407151superkit.jpg

a4cefed
09-17-2006, 04:05 AM
do them all.

IamCDN
09-17-2006, 04:29 AM
At the very least do all 4 uppers.
#4078E0407505A,6A,9A,10A
Just did mine this weekend.
Arms from fcpgroton off ebay (150$ incl. s/h)
Cinch nut and screw from dealer #N-102-861-02 , #N-034-790-7
1.23$ and 1.60$.
Lock tite for the other ones which I did not replace.
A couple of beers, a bfh and lots of liquid wrench for that damn cinch screw. I would call it a bolt but the stealership invoice calls it a screw. Not surprising.

___________
97 A4 1.8TQM

cmontboober
09-17-2006, 08:02 AM
whats the best place to find tq specs?

IamCDN
09-17-2006, 10:00 AM
Bentley manual I guess.
I got these specs somewhere off the net.
30 ft lb for the M10 x 100 cinch bolt/self locking nut.
I don't have the specs for the bolts on the inside, none given.
These have self locking nuts as well, 30 ft lb is plenty good.
You'll have to undo the 3 top bolts of the mounting bracket of the suspension strut, and rotate it to get at one of these bolts. The front one for the driver side and the front one for the passenger side. The wheel well/body is in the way. Tighten these these three top bolts back to 55 ft lb.
Plus if you have coilovers you'll have to loosen the spring (pita).
Enjoy.

cmontboober
09-17-2006, 11:47 AM
no coilovers, all stock....about how long would you say it takes to replace the control arms?

Audigeek
09-17-2006, 01:42 PM
Originally posted by burner799
SEARCH....id replace it all though.


i just finished replacing all of my control arms and tie rod ends, as well as the whole power steering rack.

Just got an alignment too. Car feels nice. [up]

Hopefully I wont be spending any more large amounts of money on my car for a while.... unless I go BT!!![a4]

Wholsea
09-18-2006, 03:10 AM
Well, you will want to make sure you have these ratcheting wrenches:

16mm, 19mm, 18mm, 13mm

And as long as this bolt cooperates:

http://www.ohiovw.com/cars/gallery/bbuxton-mid-3378-MVC-615X.JPG (Note the bolt with the wrench on it)

It should take maybe a total of 5+ hours.

jrau13
09-18-2006, 04:34 AM
Yo, whenever this subject comes up Wholsea is all over it. I might have to drive out to OH to have you help me with mine.[az]

Wholsea
09-18-2006, 04:42 AM
Timing belts and control arms...

Think I've done 4 of each :-)

1 ate T
09-18-2006, 05:34 AM
the bolt is fun.. rather than trying to pound or pry it out, you're better off spending 2 hours drilling it.

I spent 5+ hours on one side and said f it, drilled it out in 2.

(jus my advice)

also if you do drill, make sure you're accurate, and on the screw..

Wholsea
09-18-2006, 05:45 AM
Originally posted by 1 ate T
the bolt is fun.. rather than trying to pound or pry it out, you're better off spending 2 hours drilling it.

I spent 5+ hours on one side and said f it, drilled it out in 2.

(jus my advice)

also if you do drill, make sure you're accurate, and on the screw..

Yeah, I drilled one...

That's the last one I'll drill without a drill press...

I got the other side out with a torch, PB Blaster, and an Air chisel.

Took like 1/5th the time to do, and didn't destroy the upright...

Of course it destroys the boots that are on there, but you are replacing those arms anyway...

1 ate T
09-18-2006, 05:47 AM
yea, like i said about being accurate.. a buddy of mine drilled through the upright, or L bar.. whatever the heck its called.

i didnt have the proper tools and my car was unable to drive lol so i had to stick with the drill..

Wholsea
09-18-2006, 05:57 AM
Yeah, lets just say the one that I drilled won't ever have to worry about that bolt being stuck again...

Now I just use heat and PB Blaster...

1 ate T
09-18-2006, 07:29 AM
anti seize is a good friend too! [:D]