AudiC7Owners
02-19-2021, 02:04 PM
While I was able to get my car on a lift to install my new exhaust, I took advantage of the time and also replaced my Trans Cooler Valve, otherwise known as your N82 valve. This is a very straight forward and simple replacement that will save you a LOT of money in a few ways. You will only be spending about 150$ in parts, and about an hour of your time vs paying 1500$ at the dealership (That's the highest price I've seen someone pay so far).
Signs of Failure:
-You get code P2753
-You smell a faint coolant smell near the drivers side door, but don't see any leaks anywhere
-You see small puddles of coolant under the car on the driver's side right under your downpipes (Like silver dollar sized puddles, not much, and doesn't happen all the time).
The reason replacing this valve when it goes bad is so important is because, if neglected, it can result in catastrophic damage to your TCU. Then, instead of spending 150$ in parts and an hour of your time, you will be out thousands of dollars replacing your TCU or your Transmission. The way this happens is that when the valve fails, coolant migrates out of it via the electrical connector plugged into it. It then works through that up the wires of the wiring harness. If it makes it all the way to the TCU, then you are screwed.
Tools List:
-Work Light
-Jack stands & Jack
-T30 torx bit (I think... might be smaller)
-Locking hose clamps (Like these... I got 2 for 11$/each at harbor freight https://amzn.to/3ueG0wN)
-Wire cutter/stripper
-Heat Shrinked crimp connectors
-Pliers
-Something to catch dripping coolant
-Eye protection
Parts Needed:
-Valve: 4H0121671D (I suggest you buy from FCP Euro for their lifetime warranty)
-Connector Housing: 8K0973702
-Repair Wire: 000979025EA
-Wire Weather Seal: 4B0972740
Noteworthy Information:
-In the video, there are lots of things removed that you probably don't have to remove. This is because we were working on multiple things at once on the car. You need to remove the belly pan that gives you access to the valve. You MIGHT not have to remove the cross brace like we did, but it may give you more room for access to the valve. Be careful of the wiring harnesses attached to it if you do remove it.
-Watch the entire video with the volume on so you can listen to what my friend is talking about. He explains how to determine how much of your wiring harness you need to replace.
-Make sure you check what side each wire plugs into the oem connector before you cut it. There is a Green wire & a purple (or black) wire. The connector is labeled "1" & "2". Make note of which color goes to which number, because your repair wire is yellow. If you plug them into the wrong sides then you will get a fault code.
https://youtu.be/pRMSKLgIi9Q
Signs of Failure:
-You get code P2753
-You smell a faint coolant smell near the drivers side door, but don't see any leaks anywhere
-You see small puddles of coolant under the car on the driver's side right under your downpipes (Like silver dollar sized puddles, not much, and doesn't happen all the time).
The reason replacing this valve when it goes bad is so important is because, if neglected, it can result in catastrophic damage to your TCU. Then, instead of spending 150$ in parts and an hour of your time, you will be out thousands of dollars replacing your TCU or your Transmission. The way this happens is that when the valve fails, coolant migrates out of it via the electrical connector plugged into it. It then works through that up the wires of the wiring harness. If it makes it all the way to the TCU, then you are screwed.
Tools List:
-Work Light
-Jack stands & Jack
-T30 torx bit (I think... might be smaller)
-Locking hose clamps (Like these... I got 2 for 11$/each at harbor freight https://amzn.to/3ueG0wN)
-Wire cutter/stripper
-Heat Shrinked crimp connectors
-Pliers
-Something to catch dripping coolant
-Eye protection
Parts Needed:
-Valve: 4H0121671D (I suggest you buy from FCP Euro for their lifetime warranty)
-Connector Housing: 8K0973702
-Repair Wire: 000979025EA
-Wire Weather Seal: 4B0972740
Noteworthy Information:
-In the video, there are lots of things removed that you probably don't have to remove. This is because we were working on multiple things at once on the car. You need to remove the belly pan that gives you access to the valve. You MIGHT not have to remove the cross brace like we did, but it may give you more room for access to the valve. Be careful of the wiring harnesses attached to it if you do remove it.
-Watch the entire video with the volume on so you can listen to what my friend is talking about. He explains how to determine how much of your wiring harness you need to replace.
-Make sure you check what side each wire plugs into the oem connector before you cut it. There is a Green wire & a purple (or black) wire. The connector is labeled "1" & "2". Make note of which color goes to which number, because your repair wire is yellow. If you plug them into the wrong sides then you will get a fault code.
https://youtu.be/pRMSKLgIi9Q