Ringer Racing Stage 3 or Stage 4 clutch?

[thefleshrocket]

I've been agonizing over what clutch to get for my upper pulley, stage-2-tuned S4. It still has the stock clutch and flywheel, with 45K on it. It'll hold the power, as long as I don't try to accelerate too briskly from a dig, and as long as I wait a tick before mashing the throttle after the clutch is fully engaged when shifting gears. (Yes, I have the aftermarket clutch line with the clutch delay valve deleted.) Once I have the clutch sorted out, I plan to go DP, and probably ported supercharger and throttle body. I might do the occasional hard launch on the street, and will be doing roadcourse track days on a monthly basis during warmer weather.

I was originally going to go with the Southbend Stage 3 Endurance clutch, as it seems to be almost universally liked, while maintaining stockish driveability, and not being chattery or noisy. But.. $3300 for just parts is a tough pill to swallow, as is a 1000-1500-mile break-in process. Then I heard about Ringer Racing, so I looked into their offerings, which are about $1000 less expensive. https://ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=749&categoryId=215 I emailed their sales department, and Mike answered a bunch of my questions.

Basically, there's a Stage 3 that's organic / cerametallic, rated for 160% over stock, and Stage 4, which is full cerametallic, rated for 230% over stock. Both are supposed to offer stock-like driveability, and be chatter-free. The only caveat is that the cerametallic compound of the Stage 4 might slip a little before it warms up when driven in very cold climates. How much slip, and how cold of a climate? Not sure. I live in southern Illinois where it usually doesn't get below the 20s at night, and my S4 is almost always garaged, so it probably wouldn't be an issue here, but sometimes I head north, where it can be even colder at night, with no garage. I always drive gently until the oil is warmed up, but.. I am still a little hesitant.

So, those of you with experience with Ringer Racing clutches--should I go Stage 3 or Stage 4?

[thefleshrocket]

After another couple emails with Mike from Ringer Racing, I've tentatively decided on the Stage 4 clutch. But still interested in input / commentary here from those who have experience.

[rtmeikle]

After another couple emails with Mike from Ringer Racing, I've tentatively decided on the Stage 4 clutch. But still interested in input / commentary here from those who have experience.

How do you like it? I'm considering the RR stage 3 for my single-pulley S4.

Anyone else have any insight?

[thefleshrocket]

How do you like it? I'm considering the RR stage 3 for my single-pulley S4.
Anyone else have any insight?

So far I have about 300 break-in miles on the Ringer Racing Stave 4 clutch with lightened flywheel. (I did another 100+ miles, but that was all highway so I don't count that towards the prescribed 500-mile break-in period.)

The lightened flywheel behaves as expected.. have to be more judicious with the clutch when pulling away from a stop, or I might stall it. (Which happened once, and almost happened several times.) The transmission is now a lot more tolerant of clutch engagement if revs aren't exactly right--previously, it would sometimes lightly clunk clunk (like the driveline was unloading and loading) if I didn't get the revs exactly right. There is no additional NVH (noise, vibration, harshness).

The one thing that bothers me is that there is some chatter pulling away from a dead stop. Chatter, as in it feels like the clutch goes slip-grip-slip-grip-slip-grip during engagement. It has gotten better over the 300 break-in miles but isn't gone. It also seems to be less when the car is warmed up. And it doesn't do it every time I start from a dead stop, either, depending on the aggressiveness of the start. Sometimes I'll slip out the clutch briskly from 1500ish RPM, and other times, I'll have the revs just off idle. I haven't nailed down if there is any consistency to it.

My break-in has been as follows:
--First 50ish miles - driving gently
--51-250ish miles - gentle clutch engagement from a stop, no more than half throttle in first, second, and third gears; no more than 1/4 throttle in fourth, and only light acceleration in fifth and sixth; no more than 5000ish RPM
--251ish-300ish miles - same gentle clutch engagement from a stop, and a bit more throttle in the lower gears, sometimes as high as 6000 RPM

If the chatter goes away, I'll consider myself very happy with this clutch. If it's still there after 500+ break-in miles.. I will strongly consider swapping out the friction disk for sometime less "talkative".

[rtmeikle]

Thanks for the review! Keep us updated when you get through the break-in miles.

[thefleshrocket]

I emailed Mike at Ringer Racing, and he basically told me that the chatter should go away when the clutch is fully broken in, and that I am not driving it hard enough. He advised that I should make a few runs starting out in first gear, and then go WOT and run it up through the gears. So, I'm gonna go find myself a nice deserted airstrip and take her up to the far side of 150 a couple times.

[wes8398]

Much appreciation for the review here. I'm at a 2.95 pulley ratio and on a stock clutch with 85k miles on it. I'm having the same experience you did with it holding fine @ WOT through all the gears, but launching equals slippage that just keeps on slipping if you try to 'pedal' through it. A poorly timed engagement/throttle on a WOT shift will also sometimes cause slippage too. Aggressive gear drops to WOT go without a hitch, though, thankfully. Anyway, through a good amount of investigation, I've pretty much settled on a RR product as well. Their stuff is made to spec for them by Clutchmasters, who's got a good rep for making quality stuff. Even just their stage 3 has been updated to be rated to over 700 ft. lbs @ the crank, so I think I'm going that route. OP, how'd install go?

[thefleshrocket]

I had the install done by the local VW dealership, which employs an Audi master mechanic, who did the install. He said he didn't have any problems with the install. Notably, the throwout bearing, with 47K on it, was completely shot. (No, I don't ride the clutch pedal.) He said he thought that the TOB being bad might have been at least partially responsible for the slippage--IE, the clutch wasn't fully engaging immediately upon pedal release.

So far, I did one 10-120 blast, then let the car sit for about an hour and a half. Then did two 10-130 blasts (with a few miles of highway-speed cooldown in between). Haven't driven it again since. Will continue doing those blasts once or twice per drive (at the, um, local airstrip) until the clutch chatter is gone.

[fstr n u]

I'd be curious to see where you end up with the chatter. Most VW/Audi owners with LWF have chatter and it's super annoying...though there are performance trade offs. If yours goes away i'd be curious to hear when (mileage) it happened at. It's very rare to not have chatter with those setups contrary to what people say. I have run LWF on many platforms and the VW/Audis tend to not receive them well (weight based). When I modify my clutch (I'm stage 2+ single pulley), i'll be doing a LUK flywheel with an undetermined clutch....still doing research. I wish these vehicles uniformly would accept a LWF, without driveability or chatter issues....but that kind of like wishing that a year didn't have 365.25 days in a year or your 9/10 wife and you being a wealthy 2/10 dude wouldn't be cheated on.....(that last one was for fun!)

[wes8398]

...

They (Ringer) offer two single piece flywheel options which are both lighter than stock. One is forged steel, and the other is aluminum. Obviously the steel one is heavier than the aluminum one. Maybe you'd like that option. That's what I'll be pairing with my stage 3 clutch kit. NO WAY I'm putting another dual mass in here...especially not for basically the same price.

[Jliebs]

I had the install done by the local VW dealership, which employs an Audi master mechanic, who did the install. He said he didn't have any problems with the install. Notably, the throwout bearing, with 47K on it, was completely shot. (No, I don't ride the clutch pedal.) He said he thought that the TOB being bad might have been at least partially responsible for the slippage--IE, the clutch wasn't fully engaging immediately upon pedal release.

So far, I did one 10-120 blast, then let the car sit for about an hour and a half. Then did two 10-130 blasts (with a few miles of highway-speed cooldown in between). Haven't driven it again since. Will continue doing those blasts once or twice per drive (at the, um, local airstrip) until the clutch chatter is gone.

Hey. Just reading through this thread. I am also looking to upgrade my clutch setup in the near future and I was just wondering, how many hours did the shop quote you for this install?

[wes8398]

Hey. Just reading through this thread. I am also looking to upgrade my clutch setup in the near future and I was just wondering, how many hours did the shop quote you for this install?Most will quote 8-ish hours.

[thefleshrocket]

Hey. Just reading through this thread. I am also looking to upgrade my clutch setup in the near future and I was just wondering, how many hours did the shop quote you for this install?

I'll have to dig up the invoice at home, but IIRC it was around $1200, and that dealer charges $130/hour. But that $1200 probably includes "shop supplies" and some stuff that was needed in addition to the parts that I supplied to them.

[thefleshrocket]

I'd be curious to see where you end up with the chatter. Most VW/Audi owners with LWF have chatter and it's super annoying...though there are performance trade offs. If yours goes away i'd be curious to hear when (mileage) it happened at. It's very rare to not have chatter with those setups contrary to what people say.

Yup, I'll keep this thread posted as mileage accrues. After doing a 10-130 blast, there is usually a little bit of cooking friction material smell, so presumably still some clutch break-in happening.

Previously reading through other clutch threads, I don't specifically recall anyone complaining about chatter with LWFs or aftermarket clutches. Not saying it doesn't happen, but I figured I'd have had some recollection of it being mentioned.

[Jliebs]

I'll have to dig up the invoice at home, but IIRC it was around $1200, and that dealer charges $130/hour. But that $1200 probably includes "shop supplies" and some stuff that was needed in addition to the parts that I supplied to them.

Hey thanks man I appreciate it. Looking forward to hear about how this break in goes and what your overall experience is with this clutch. Just heard about ringer racing not too long ago and I’ve heard good things!

[rtmeikle]

Yup, I'll keep this thread posted as mileage accrues. After doing a 10-130 blast, there is usually a little bit of cooking friction material smell, so presumably still some clutch break-in happening.

Previously reading through other clutch threads, I don't specifically recall anyone complaining about chatter with LWFs or aftermarket clutches. Not saying it doesn't happen, but I figured I'd have had some recollection of it being mentioned.

Much appreciated- I'll keep my eyes on this thread. Remind me, did you go aluminum or steel for your fly wheel?

[kevinz]

How are you analyzing LWF vs SC lower pulley weight? If we go dual pulley at some point, a lot of folks do not put on a damped lower pulley which lowers rotating mass. Is there a risk of going LWF and then later changing out the lower pulley for non-damped and then having not enough mass for good driveabiliy? Did RR have anything to say about this?

[wes8398]

How are you analyzing LWF vs SC lower pulley weight? If we go dual pulley at some point, a lot of folks do not put on a damped lower pulley which lowers rotating mass. Is there a risk of going LWF and then later changing out the lower pulley for non-damped and then having not enough mass for good driveabiliy? Did RR have anything to say about this?The crank pulley on this application does not have anywhere near the effect as the flywheel. The need for dampening on the crank pulley is debatable at best (Fluidamper peddlers and customers will be most of the arguments against this). Taking a few pounds off the nose of the crank is hardly going to effect driveability, even coupled with a LWFW. Although, there does seem to be a POSSIBILITY that there's a correlation between LWFWs and specifically the JHM crank pulley bolts snapping. [emoji2369]

[thefleshrocket]

Much appreciated- I'll keep my eyes on this thread. Remind me, did you go aluminum or steel for your fly wheel?

I went with aluminum. Wanted as light as possible, because with the stock clutch, there would be some driveline lash when upshifting if I didn't have the revs exactly right when engaging the clutch. That's pretty much no longer an issue. (If there ever is any lash, it's almost never, and almost imperceptible.)

[thefleshrocket]

How are you analyzing LWF vs SC lower pulley weight? If we go dual pulley at some point, a lot of folks do not put on a damped lower pulley which lowers rotating mass. Is there a risk of going LWF and then later changing out the lower pulley for non-damped and then having not enough mass for good driveabiliy? Did RR have anything to say about this?

True, I did the lower pulley (the ECS-branded one.. it was $100ish cheaper than everyone else's with no apparent detriment) at the same time as the clutch, so I don't have a way to tell which is having an effect. That said, the effect of the lightened flywheel and lower pulley isn't huge.. like, I thought it would be even more. The revs don't drop THAT much faster when upshifting, and starting from a dead stop isn't as tricky as I'd expected it to be.

I did not specifically ask RR about the lower pulley's effect in addition to the lightened flywheel.

[thefleshrocket]

I honestly think that I haven't been breaking in the clutch aggressively enough. I am really good about not slipping much when pulling away from a stop (usually a tiny blip, then slip the clutch from just off idle, and have it engaged almost immediately), and I am great at rev-matched downshifts (though I have never gotten the hang of heel-and-toe), so I don't think a lot of wear has happened on the friction disk.

So, as of yesterday, now when I pull away from a stop, I'm going to drive like I'm a stick-shift newbie and am dead scared of killing it. 3000rpm, then release the clutch pedal slowly so there is a fair amount of slip before it's fully engaged. That should help break in the friction disk without overheating it (hopefully) as there really isn't stop-and-go traffic where I live.

Also worth noting, when I pull away from a stop with higher revs and more clutch slip, there is no chatter.

Also on my mind.. pretty sure the car has the stock plugs with 48K miles on it. The idle isn't the smoothest (it wasn't even with the stock clutch and lower pulley, and is hardly any worse now) so maybe some new plugs will help smooth things out. Not sure what I should get while running DP, though.

[fstr n u]

thefleshrocket, there are oodles of threads with Audi B8/B8/5 with the 6MT who have opted for a LWF and have chatter. These go back to 2010 for sure. I have no notion of what percentage of owners of our cars experience chatter with LWF, but i can speak to many of the cars i've owned. Typically LWF result in imbalances in drivelines and vibration.

I own an 800hp LS2 powered 1998 Camaro 6spd manual (custom turbo) and i just installed a LWF with a McCleod Twin Disc Clutch and i have slight chatter/vibration. The dead stop/start is slightly annoying as the LWF doesn't carry enough energy to allow for a soft/slow start with ease. This has been the case in multiple vehicle platforms...reducing weight leads to certain changes....

[wes8398]

I honestly think that I haven't been breaking in the clutch aggressively enough. I am really good about not slipping much when pulling away from a stop (usually a tiny blip, then slip the clutch from just off idle, and have it engaged almost immediately), and I am great at rev-matched downshifts (though I have never gotten the hang of heel-and-toe), so I don't think a lot of wear has happened on the friction disk.

So, as of yesterday, now when I pull away from a stop, I'm going to drive like I'm a stick-shift newbie and am dead scared of killing it. 3000rpm, then release the clutch pedal slowly so there is a fair amount of slip before it's fully engaged. That should help break in the friction disk without overheating it (hopefully) as there really isn't stop-and-go traffic where I live.

Also worth noting, when I pull away from a stop with higher revs and more clutch slip, there is no chatter.

Also on my mind.. pretty sure the car has the stock plugs with 48K miles on it. The idle isn't the smoothest (it wasn't even with the stock clutch and lower pulley, and is hardly any worse now) so maybe some new plugs will help smooth things out. Not sure what I should get while running DP, though.

I think you're definitely on to something with the break-in procedure. I'm sure Ringer or Clutchmasters would advise you on this specific application if you gave them a call/email though.

I went from a stock dual mass flywheel that weighed ~35Lbs to a 16Lb aluminum flywheel in my first-gen CTS-V with an LSA blower, cam, heads, and intake. Break-in instructions for the McLeod RXT and aforementioned flywheel were more aggressive than I was expecting; but I followed them and didn't have any chatter issues.

[RickyBobby IV]

Did you end up going stage 4 or stage 3?

edit: I read the entire thread and somehow missed the first message o.0 Disregard

[rtmeikle]

I just completed my order for a stage 3 with steel flywheel. I won't schedule the install until it gets here, but once it's installed, I'll share my impressions on this thread.

[wes8398]

I just completed my order for a stage 3 with steel flywheel. I won't schedule the install until it gets here, but once it's installed, I'll share my impressions on this thread.Please do!

[mahhdd]

Subscribing for future clutch replacement. I'm far away from needing one; but, I still want to have my research done far in advance. I've had my eye on Ringer from the start.

[thefleshrocket]

I've got close to 1000 miles on the Ringer Racing stage 4 clutch with aluminum flywheel, and the chatter is still lightly present. Sometimes I'll pull away from a stop casually and there will be no chatter. Other times, a little bit. Seems to happen whether the clutch is warm or cold, but if I slip the clutch aggressively once, then the chatter usually goes away more for a bit.

I've done probably a dozen 10-130 pulls at WOT, though not more than two during a given drive, so I don't overheat the clutch. Also, once during each drive, I will pull away from a stoplight with the tach at 3000rpm, and have it a bit over 3000rpm by the time the clutch is fully engaged. Also, once each drive, I'll be in 2nd gear at 20mph, push in the clutch, rev to 4000rpm, and slowly slip out the clutch until its fully engaged. Usually after doing that, I won't notice any more chatter during casual driving.

I'm going to reach out to Ringer Racing to see if they have any more suggestions.

[thefleshrocket]

I checked in with Ringer Racing. He said that practically everyone who does a clutch kit for the B8.5 does the steel flywheel, and posited that the slippage is due to the aluminum flywheel. Apparently the flywheel is in two pieces, and I can replace just the aluminum part for around $600, not including labor. Sucks, but if it'll cure the chatter, so be it.

- - - Updated - - -


I just completed my order for a stage 3 with steel flywheel. I won't schedule the install until it gets here, but once it's installed, I'll share my impressions on this thread.

I am anxiously awaiting your impressions, as I am thinking about replacing my aluminum flywheel with steel.

[mahhdd]

I checked in with Ringer Racing. He said that practically everyone who does a clutch kit for the B8.5 does the steel flywheel, and posited that the slippage is due to the aluminum flywheel. Apparently the flywheel is in two pieces, and I can replace just the aluminum part for around $600, not including labor. Sucks, but if it'll cure the chatter, so be it.

- - - Updated - - -



I am anxiously awaiting your impressions, as I am thinking about replacing my aluminum flywheel with steel.

You should encourage Ringer to include this information on the website... I hate when companies who offer quality products that don't mention stuff like this, especially since a clutch job is a lot of work on our cars. JHM's information section is a mess; but, they seemingly try their best to give people an "up front, before ordering" guide before they actually purpose.

[B5Dreaming]

I just completed my order for a stage 3 with steel flywheel. I won't schedule the install until it gets here, but once it's installed, I'll share my impressions on this thread.

Any updates on the Ringer Stage 3 with steel flywheel?

[rtmeikle]

Any updates on the Ringer Stage 3 with steel flywheel?

Not regretting it at all. Stock pedal feel, chattering is now very rare. I drive it a bit different, but anyone who's driven multiple MT cars knows that every one is slightly different. I don't lug around in 6th gear at low RPMs anymore- I keep RPMs above 2,000. I probably give 'er a bit more gas when starting in first. But overall, I'm used to it now and the car drives great.

The clutch handles stage 2 power like a boss; no issues with slippage at all.

[thefleshrocket]

I hadn't driven my S4 in a couple weeks (on the lift in my garage for minor projects), but had it out today for lunch and a couple errands. Chatter seems almost entirely gone with my Stage 4 and aluminum flywheel. Thinking about not switching the flywheel to steel at this point.

[B5Dreaming]

Not regretting it at all. Stock pedal feel, chattering is now very rare. I drive it a bit different, but anyone who's driven multiple MT cars knows that every one is slightly different. I don't lug around in 6th gear at low RPMs anymore- I keep RPMs above 2,000. I probably give 'er a bit more gas when starting in first. But overall, I'm used to it now and the car drives great.

The clutch handles stage 2 power like a boss; no issues with slippage at all.

Thanks for the update. I'm slipping occasionally at 32k miles on stock clutch (usp ss) w/ 187mm lower pulley. I've been flip-flopping between Southbend Stage 2 Endurance or Ringer Stage 3. Since there's a chance of DP in the future, I'm now leaning towards Ringer Stg 3 with a steel flywheel.

[jcollins28]

I dropped my car off this morning to get a RR stage 4 clutch, LW steel flywheel, SS clutch line, JXP extended slave, and fresh Motul Gear 300 put in.

[B5Dreaming]

I dropped my car off this morning to get a RR stage 4 clutch, LW steel flywheel, SS clutch line, JXP extended slave, and fresh Motul Gear 300 put in.

The Stage 3 has a 740 lbs torque rating, why'd you decide to go with Stage 4 over Stage 3?

[jcollins28]

On the recommendation of Mike Hood with Ringer. Stage 3 is better for cold weather climates. In warm weather like Southern California. Mike advised going with stage 4 and the steel flywheel.

[wes8398]

Thanks for the update. I'm slipping occasionally at 32k miles on stock clutch (usp ss) w/ 187mm lower pulley. I've been flip-flopping between Southbend Stage 2 Endurance or Ringer Stage 3. Since there's a chance of DP in the future, I'm now leaning towards Ringer Stg 3 with a steel flywheel.To be frank, South Bend shouldn't even be in the equation. AFAIK, Ringer wins in EVERY aspect of comparison. Customer service included.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[mahhdd]

I hadn't driven my S4 in a couple weeks (on the lift in my garage for minor projects), but had it out today for lunch and a couple errands. Chatter seems almost entirely gone with my Stage 4 and aluminum flywheel. Thinking about not switching the flywheel to steel at this point.

Well that's great news!!! I'm glad it's working out for ya, because that's quite a job and expense otherwise.

How many miles do you have on it at this point?

[jcollins28]

Picked up my car after having a RR Stage 4 clutch, lightweight flywheel, ESC SS line and JXB extended slave put in. Still breaking it in but driving it hard once the car is rolling per Mike's instructions. Loving this clutch and the pedal feel.

[2by2handsofblue]

Makes sense

we are the borg! resistance is futile.

[2by2handsofblue]

You should encourage Ringer to include this information on the website... I hate when companies who offer quality products that don't mention stuff like this, especially since a clutch job is a lot of work on our cars. JHM's information section is a mess; but, they seemingly try their best to give people an "up front, before ordering" guide before they actually purpose.It does say on their website that aluminum will cause chatter

we are the borg! resistance is futile.

[mahhdd]

Picked up my car after having a RR Stage 4 clutch, lightweight flywheel, ESC SS line and JXB extended slave put in. Still breaking it in but driving it hard once the car is rolling per Mike's instructions. Loving this clutch and the pedal feel.

Total labor?

[fstr n u]

jcollins post a vid of your car driving...curious to hear your exhaust coupled w the 6spd manual trans....

[jcollins28]

Total labor?

$1,400 for the clutch, flywheel, SS line, extended slave and fluid change.

[mahhdd]

Following back up, since I've seen a few Ringer posts on Facebook. I linked users to this thread.

Updates from everyone?

Are you guys actually racing with the clutch yet?

Launch methods? User from Facebook says he launches at 2,800 and "sleeps on the clutch for a bit so he doesn't break anything"

[thefleshrocket]

Following back up, since I've seen a few Ringer posts on Facebook. I linked users to this thread.
Updates from everyone?
Are you guys actually racing with the clutch yet?
Launch methods? User from Facebook says he launches at 2,800 and "sleeps on the clutch for a bit so he doesn't break anything"

My '15 always had a little bit of chatter when engaging first gear from a dead stop. As far as launches, I would do the "upswing" method. I'd stage (this is on the... um.. street.. in.. Mexico) at about 2500rpm, and then mash the throttle while popping the clutch. That seemed to work well for getting some wheelspin but not too much, and not bogging.

I sold the car about 6 months ago, though.. and regret it.

[mahhdd]

My '15 always had a little bit of chatter when engaging first gear from a dead stop. As far as launches, I would do the "upswing" method. I'd stage (this is on the... um.. street.. in.. Mexico) at about 2500rpm, and then mash the throttle while popping the clutch. That seemed to work well for getting some wheelspin but not too much, and not bogging.

I sold the car about 6 months ago, though.. and regret it.

Buy mine for a premium :)

[thefleshrocket]

Buy mine for a premium :)

If I was going to buy another S4, it would only be to buy back my old one as I knew I had it set up exactly as I wanted, and knew its history.

I have a Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing on order, though, and can't really justify having it and an S4. "On order" means that I might see it in 6-9 months, though, so not exactly holding my breath.

[B5Dreaming]

I recently installed a Ringer Racing Stage 4 with steel flywheel and have a significant amount chatter in 1st/reverse. I emailed Mike Hood about the break-in procedure and this is his response:


if you drive the car hard starting in 2nd gear and go thru the gears from there the break-in will happen quicker since basically there is a clear coating on the disk material that needs to wear off to get down to the material itself. As the clear wears off that shutter (clutch chatter) in 1st gear will start to go away to the point it is completely gone which usually means you are done with the break-in.

Break-in is about 500-600 miles when breaking in the clutch by driving the car hard once in 2nd gear. The only thing you don't want to do is any launching or higher gear pulls from low rpm/speed since the clutch is only holding a % of the power it is rated for while the clear is still on the material.

So basically just go part throttle in 1st gear, from a stop you can even start letting the clutch out first and then start giving it throttle. Get the car going and then shift into 2nd gear, from there you can go WOT.

The normal easy driving break-in period with my clutch could take up to 2k miles to wear off the clear.

As others have pointed out, the customer service with Ringer Racing has been exceptional.

[rtmeikle]

Following back up, since I've seen a few Ringer posts on Facebook. I linked users to this thread.

Updates from everyone?

Are you guys actually racing with the clutch yet?

Launch methods? User from Facebook says he launches at 2,800 and "sleeps on the clutch for a bit so he doesn't break anything"

I'm stage III RR with steel flywheel and wanted to update the thread to let you guys know that there is no longer any chatter at all, ever. Loving the setup

[mahhdd]

I'm stage III RR with steel flywheel and wanted to update the thread to let you guys know that there is no longer any chatter at all, ever. Loving the setupWhat method of break in did you use, and how many miles did it take?

Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

[rtmeikle]

Took it easy for 500 miles, then drove it normally. I wish I knew exactly when it went away- it was kind of gradual.

[BrokeBichB8]

Can anyone post or link a launch video with their ringer clutch? I need to convince myself to spend the cash on it.

[mahhdd]

Can anyone post or link a launch video with their ringer clutch? I need to convince myself to spend the cash on it.

Probably should post this in B8.5 Network on Facebook, too.

[wes8398]

What method of break in did you use, and how many miles did it take?

Sent from my Pixel 5a using TapatalkMike from Ringer is very responsive. He'll give you the what-for on break-in. I think he has two different methods...a "quick n dirty" and then a more typical one.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[mahhdd]

Mike from Ringer is very responsive. He'll give you the what-for on break-in. I think he has two different methods...a "quick n dirty" and then a more typical one.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

He did, and it's a few posts up. I'm asking which method he chose for himself.

[Caffeen]

Pop in for an update here, 3k miles on my stage 3 ringer w/ steel FW and it's super smooth now.

No complaints but I havent installed my DP setup yet so the torque load isnt too high anyway.

[B5Dreaming]

I recently installed a Ringer Racing Stage 4 with steel flywheel and have a significant amount chatter in 1st/reverse. I emailed Mike Hood about the break-in procedure and this is his response:



As others have pointed out, the customer service with Ringer Racing has been exceptional.

Update: I'm at 600mi and 80-85% of the chatter is already gone. It started to go away within the last 100mi.

[fstr n u]

no videos yet? I've heard good things about this company/product....looking forward to someone who has this posting their usage and feedback through video of this.