Should I bother with paint correction?

[Daily Driver]

‘14 estoril S4. I’m original owner, it has 58K miles. Keeping for foreseeable future as it’s 6MT. However, has plenty of swirls thanks to dealer washes and some inevitable scratches. Has full frontal XPEL from when I bought it. Having a dent looked at for PDR and wondering if I should price out a paint correction. My eyes are drawn to every blemish but I realize it’s an almost 7 year old car and a good paint correction may cost me 10% of the value. Thoughts?

[Ashtonts]

You can get the paint looking surprisingly awesome by just doing a clay bar, compound, polish, & wax. I did that on my old B7 and it was amazing how nice the paint looked after. I did it by hand for under $100, but even if you buy the dual action polisher and the pads, you’ll get some solid results without having to spend a ton of money.

[mpepin07]

I’d recommend trying to do it yourself first. This is the first thing I did after getting my S4.. the polisher plus pads and compounds cost me ~$300 all said and done. It was intimidating at first but I got the hang of it pretty quickly.

I won’t pretend that I did as good of a job as the professionals, but it did make noticeable difference and took out a lot of the “spider webs.”

[sacandagaD]

‘14 estoril S4. I’m original owner, it has 58K miles. Keeping for foreseeable future as it’s 6MT. However, has plenty of swirls thanks to dealer washes and some inevitable scratches. Has full frontal XPEL from when I bought it. Having a dent looked at for PDR and wondering if I should price out a paint correction. My eyes are drawn to every blemish but I realize it’s an almost 7 year old car and a good paint correction may cost me 10% of the value. Thoughts?

I have a similar situation with my '15 Sepang that needs a paint correction, and I'm curious to hear how your 7 y/o XPEL has held up, and what your plan is for it? Unfortunately, the 3M film on the front of mine has plenty of swirls in it, and I don't see any alternative to removing it.

[whts4]

Once ppf is scratch it is not recoverable...remove and replace. I have a 2015 Sepang that is near show room condition, but have extremely good luck with my own paint correction on other cars. Swirls are usually only in the clear coat (sort of like scratches in ppf) but you can polish out most swirls. If a swirl is too deep to polish out, many times using clear touchup paint in those scratches/swirls and then light wet sanding and polishing will make a huge improvement.

Obviously if you dont feel you are experienced enough to do the job a proffessional correction proffessional can do it for you. A middle ground is to do what you feel comfortable with and have a pro do the tough spots. Once done you'll be amazed.

I have done my own ppf install using pre-cut film....and is not the tough, but with that said it takes patience and guidance. Even though I can do it, I let the pros do it.

[jygesq]

The moral of this story is NEVER EVER HAVE DEALER WAS YOUR CAR!

[Bolivianfuego]

‘14 estoril S4. I’m original owner, it has 58K miles. Keeping for foreseeable future as it’s 6MT. However, has plenty of swirls thanks to dealer washes and some inevitable scratches. Has full frontal XPEL from when I bought it. Having a dent looked at for PDR and wondering if I should price out a paint correction. My eyes are drawn to every blemish but I realize it’s an almost 7 year old car and a good paint correction may cost me 10% of the value. Thoughts?

If you're a person who is drawn to any scratches with your eyes--then yes.

I did it to mine (2010 S4, Phantom Black), which had a ton of swirls and scratches....and was not a mistake whatsoever. Time and effort really paid off and the end product made it all worth it.

I just used basic DA polisher (Griots Garage GG6, 8+ years old I've owned), a good compound, polish and sealant to lock it all in. Happy to PM you what you'd need to buy to get these type of results. That's the hardest part is picking what products to use in the crazy line of stuff that's available.

https://i.postimg.cc/pTjx0mht/IMG-2630.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7ZPHxPcg/IMG-2626.jpg


The moral of this story is NEVER EVER HAVE DEALER WAS YOUR CAR!

Exactly.

after you get your paint corrected, only wash your car yourself because any car washes, dealers, etc. are the ones that put those scratches back in, in your newly 'paint corrected' paint.

They're probably using dirty wash mitts, dirty towels, and other 'lack of quality control' stuff that will just make new scratches in your paint. The #1 way people put scratches in their car is through the wash/dry process if you don't know what you're doing.

[KRp220]

‘14 estoril S4. I’m original owner, it has 58K miles. Keeping for foreseeable future as it’s 6MT. However, has plenty of swirls thanks to dealer washes and some inevitable scratches. Has full frontal XPEL from when I bought it. Having a dent looked at for PDR and wondering if I should price out a paint correction. My eyes are drawn to every blemish but I realize it’s an almost 7 year old car and a good paint correction may cost me 10% of the value. Thoughts?

as others have said, try it yourself if you have the time, patience, resources/tools, but if you don't want to DIY, https://uccboston.com/ is a great option. (not sure where in NE you are so hopefully thats close)

[Daily Driver]

The moral of this story is NEVER EVER HAVE DEALER WAS YOUR CAR!

Yeah. It happens sometimes even when I tell them not to. After it was already done I stopped bothering.

[Daily Driver]

I have a similar situation with my '15 Sepang that needs a paint correction, and I'm curious to hear how your 7 y/o XPEL has held up, and what your plan is for it? Unfortunately, the 3M film on the front of mine has plenty of swirls in it, and I don't see any alternative to removing it.

PPF has some swirls but at this point it matches the rest of the car 😂 Definitely glad I had it done back when I purchased.

[Daily Driver]

If you're a person who is drawn to any scratches with your eyes--then yes.

I did it to mine (2010 S4, Phantom Black), which had a ton of swirls and scratches....and was not a mistake whatsoever. Time and effort really paid off and the end product made it all worth it.

I just used basic DA polisher (Griots Garage GG6, 8+ years old I've owned), a good compound, polish and sealant to lock it all in. Happy to PM you what you'd need to buy to get these type of results. That's the hardest part is picking what products to use in the crazy line of stuff that's available.

https://i.postimg.cc/pTjx0mht/IMG-2630.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7ZPHxPcg/IMG-2626.jpg



Exactly.

after you get your paint corrected, only wash your car yourself because any car washes, dealers, etc. are the ones that put those scratches back in, in your newly 'paint corrected' paint.

They're probably using dirty wash mitts, dirty towels, and other 'lack of quality control' stuff that will just make new scratches in your paint. The #1 way people put scratches in their car is through the wash/dry process if you don't know what you're doing.

Car looks great!

[Daily Driver]

Dealer washes are definitely not something I intended but oh well. I will admit to taking it through the touchless to get the salt off the undercarriage though [emoji51]

[onelowboi]

Oh yeah. Recently got a MK5 GTI that was sitting in a driveway for almost a year, waiting for repair. Bought it and the first thing I did was a 2-step compound/polish myself. It got the paint looking so clean and fresh, practically no swirls, got rid of most of the scratches, and even got rid of some weird tar that covered the top of the fender. Did a one-step on my S4 since the paint was in better condition, and it got rid of a lot of the pesky, OCD-triggering swirls. I plan to go back and see if I can do compounding to get it perfect, then ceramic coat.
DIY 2-step compounding needs wax/polishing machine ($20 low-end) and compound/polish all-in-one ($20 3D One). Optional is ceramic coating and/or sealant. That'll run you around $40 for a good sealant/ceramic-wax hybrid, or ceramic coating that is MUCH more expensive, but lasts MUCH longer. Considering you'll be keeping it a while, I'd recommend doing ceramic coating, but you will have to research how to properly do it as it is very important to ensure you don't mess things up.

[Bolivianfuego]

Dealer washes are definitely not something I intended but oh well. I will admit to taking it through the touchless to get the salt off the undercarriage though [emoji51]

Yup! It happens though. People don't realize, dealers don't lnow what they're doing when it comes to paint.


Touchless are great though, nothing wrong with those! They actually serve as a good 'pre-wash'. For example, you'd take your car to one if you intend to rinse any of the crap that's under your car (salt, road debris, etc) and on the paint before washing at home with a Rinseless Wash (like me) during winter time.

[jygesq]

I wash my car using a spray wash with a wand.The soap cycle & wash costs $4 and the wash only uses one dollar coins, The first required use of Susan Anthony dollar coins. But only in non winter weather!

[Austin88]

I would definitely DIY this and save a ton. Watch some YouTube videos it’s not hard. Then once your done wash it properly and she will shine for years to come!

[MN Blue S4]

First off, congrats on Estoril Blue. I've had mine for 7 years and when the paint is corrected it is an absolutely stunning color. Keeping it that way can almost be a full time job as it seems to show every little imperfection. When I first got my car it was one year old and had pretty messy looking paint so I took it to a local professional and when I got it back it looked like the car was made out of glass. Unbelievable shine and depth. Since then, I've pretty much taken care of it myself with an annual polishing using my Porter Cable 7424XP and a variety of different polishes. I will say that this car has been the most challenging to get looking really good going the DIY route. I don't know if it's hard paint or just a tricky color but I've never been able to get it back to looking quite as good as it did that first time. At first I thought it was my technique or equipment or the polish I was using but I've done the exact same routine on my wife's Mini Cooper and it turned out fantastic. Either way, I'd agree with giving the DIY route a try first and see what happens.

[Bolivianfuego]

Probably a mix of the paint and machine. German paint like ours is notoriously hard. Asian car makers have softer paint.

Your machine also in its hey day was top of the chain but is now pretty heavily underpowered to other stuff you can buy now. I think that is what’s not helping you achieve more perfect results. My black paint was rock hard and took serious compound and elbow grease to take out really deep imperfections. My machine is pretty powerful too.

I would suggest upgrading your machine first and see if that changes results.

[rsfpc05]

I’ve struggled with this decision as well. I was about to do it this past spring then PPF it but never pulled the trigger. A local guy quoted me a detail and ceramic coat for $600 vs another high end detailer quoting $1k for just a paint correction.

[Daily Driver]

First off, congrats on Estoril Blue. I've had mine for 7 years and when the paint is corrected it is an absolutely stunning color. Keeping it that way can almost be a full time job as it seems to show every little imperfection. When I first got my car it was one year old and had pretty messy looking paint so I took it to a local professional and when I got it back it looked like the car was made out of glass. Unbelievable shine and depth. Since then, I've pretty much taken care of it myself with an annual polishing using my Porter Cable 7424XP and a variety of different polishes. I will say that this car has been the most challenging to get looking really good going the DIY route. I don't know if it's hard paint or just a tricky color but I've never been able to get it back to looking quite as good as it did that first time. At first I thought it was my technique or equipment or the polish I was using but I've done the exact same routine on my wife's Mini Cooper and it turned out fantastic. Either way, I'd agree with giving the DIY route a try first and see what happens.

Yes, when new this color definitely turned heads. I think it’s an absolutely gorgeous blue but I have a feeling there must be some reason why Audi only offered it for a very few short years. I do think it’s a tricky one to maintain and probably match.

[MN Blue S4]

I did talk with a local Audi enthusiast who also owns a body shop that does a lot of work on Audis and he said Audi had stopped offering Estoril Blue because it chipped much easier than the other colors and it was also a nightmare to match/blend. I still think it's one of the best colors they've offered and I always get a ton of compliments on the color of my car.

[CardFan]

I’m very late to the thread but I just finished a DIY effort on my black 2012 which was in rough shape. It’s not perfect but it looks much better and definitely good enough for a car about to hit 100k. I decided to add a ceramic coating as well after going through the effort of paint correction. I was able to take advantage of the work from home situation and we only used my wife’s car for a week or so while I did the work. I would agree it’s a tougher choice if paying to have it done but that depends on the individual and how much it’s worth it to you.

[Neil F]

I did talk with a local Audi enthusiast who also owns a body shop that does a lot of work on Audis and he said Audi had stopped offering Estoril Blue because it chipped much easier than the other colors and it was also a nightmare to match/blend. I still think it's one of the best colors they've offered and I always get a ton of compliments on the color of my car.

I have a 14 S5 in the color. Love it. Bought it CPO. front end was perfect. No chips but color looked like it did not 100% match. 2 years later looked like the lunar surface with tons of chips. It had been a bad repaint. Audi would not cover. (Long story.)

Shortly after had minor frond end damage and insurance claim. Shop was able to match (but had to pay out of pocket to get more painted so it all matched.....long ugly story) but love the color.

I am considering a lot said here and would like to fix scratches and general wear that is accumulating

[weave]

paint correction isnt for everyone and the up front cost can be substantial. You could grab a griots G9 some pads and product and be well 400$. Audi paint is usually pretty hard and I doubt a 1st timer could get it perfect in just one day with normal learning curve. That said if you dont have the patience or the free time I usually charge about 600 to 750$ for a 2 stage paint correction and I have no doubt you could find someone talented in your area. Doesnt have to be the nicest shop and you dont have to go for the resin ceramic coating that alone is around $300 extra. Xpel ppf can be lightly polish as well.

[evanb]

My car got covered in pine sap. In an over zealous attempt to remove the sap I really messed up the clear coat all over the car. I went to a detailer who measured the depth of the clear coat (he was very impressed) and said he could fix it. He wet sanded the car and did a ceramic coat. So, after paying a $500 stupid tax, it came out looking great.

[Allan691]

My car got covered in pine sap. In an over zealous attempt to remove the sap I really messed up the clear coat all over the car. I went to a detailer who measured the depth of the clear coat (he was very impressed) and said he could fix it. He wet sanded the car and did a ceramic coat. So, after paying a $500 stupid tax, it came out looking great.

What year is your car..? I have very bad luck with bird shit hitting and then etching into my paint if not caught within 10 mins.. I can wet sand but not sure how deep my clear coat is. I have a 2010 and feel like the paint is terrible against bird poop.

[evanb]

What year is your car..? I have very bad luck with bird shit hitting and then etching into my paint if not caught within 10 mins.. I can wet sand but not sure how deep my clear coat is. I have a 2010 and feel like the paint is terrible against bird poop.

It's a 2012. I carry ArmorAll Wash Wipes in the car for bird shit.

[Bolivianfuego]

What year is your car..? I have very bad luck with bird shit hitting and then etching into my paint if not caught within 10 mins.. I can wet sand but not sure how deep my clear coat is. I have a 2010 and feel like the paint is terrible against bird poop.

Bird shit depending on the bird...can have strong poop.

I would just carry a quick detailer and a Microfiber rag in the trunk for when a bird decides to drop one of their bombs.

Also, do you apply a sealant to your car or have it ceramic coated? That can help provide a layer so the bird bomb eats through that first, not touching your clear.