Oil Change Mess

[spindlewood]

So, did an oil change last night on the SQ5 but must have been a bit tired and didn't seat the O ring correctly on the oil filter lid. After refilling the oil and checking the MMI level. I took a break. The next day, I decided I wanted to check the oil, but I couldn't measure the oil in the MMI without the oil being warm. So I had to drive the car for a mile to warm it up. Of course driving with the lid not sealed made a mess. BUT what pisses me off, is that when I turned on the MMI to check the oil, it said FULL when clearly (in hind site) it was down a quart.

The MMI quit allowing me to view the oil level (the oil cooled down too much). I noticed some spilled oil and discovered the O Ring was not seated properly. I put it back in but apparently didn't tighten the lid enough [headbang]. I now drove for another few miles to warm the oil up and lost probably another 1 1/2 quarts. No warning on the MMI while driving.

When I got back and finally checked the MMI again, the message on the MMI says Add a quart immediately. I added 2 quarts and am finally at MIN.

I am hesitant to drive the car until I get that last quart in the car. If the plastic housing for the filter is broken, I don't want to risk losing more oil unless its full. But the dealer is 1 1/2 hours away. I'll be going in the AM before work in the wife's car.

My first rant is that the MMI won't give any reading at all unless the oil is warm, but you shouldn't drive unless you know how much oil you have. Seems like a Catch 22.
My second rant is that the MMI gave me the wrong reading. Never thought this could really happen.

Hopefully no damage done being down 2-3 quarts. Wonder why the Audi didn't warn me right away that the oil was low.

So some lessons learned:

Always have way more oil than I think is needed lying around.
Don't trust the MMI. Trust the Dip Stick. I have a dip stick but didn't trust it at first since the MMI said FULL.
Don't change my oil at night - [:/] Really just need to be more careful with the housing.

Deep breath... I've changed my oil 5 times before without an issue but this is why I will never be a mechanic.[wrench]. I imagine my belly pan is a royal mess. Without a lift, is there any way to clean up the mess I've made below? Is it even worth it?

Was thinking about changing my own brakes, but this gives me pause.

[rcprato]

If you change your own oil a dipstick from ECS is a must, can get a reading in oil level cold. Then you can check level cold, start engine with hood open and check for leaks.
Really sucks this happened but a good live and learn lesson.
I would find some YouTube videos for changing brakes on your exact model before deciding to do yourself, IMO it is an fairly easy job to do if you have all the tools you need including VCDS or similar program to retract the rear EB so you can replace the pads


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[nck4857]

Ouch, $60+ for a dipstick!

[spindlewood]

Ironically, I spent the $60 for it but didn't fully trust it. I bought the s4,/s5 version and have only used it once before. It is accurate. I can verify that now.but fresh oil is very difficult to read as it's so clear

I'm trying to figure out now if my housing or lid is cracked. After filling last night, I went for a ride, but after it was down a quarter cup and a tablespoon or two under the car. I filled last night again till full Another tablespoon or two this morning but the MMI says full even after a 30 minute drive.

So, my question is whether the few tablespoons on the garage floor are new due to a leak / crack in the housing or if they are the result of the original spill and the oil working its way through the belly pan. Any opinions?

Since the filter casing has a plastic lid and housing,, I'm trying to figure out how to tell visually which would be leaking if cracked. Hard to see or tell as it is cramped in there to get it completely dry from my original mishap.

I guess I need a week of driving to see if the level changes.

[nck4857]

I would be more inclined to say that whatever leaked the first time is just working it's way down, especially if you can't get down and clean or soak up oil that may have pooled anywhere. Two oil changes ago, our Ford dealership did a Shi*** job and we had oil dripping in the garage overnight. Luckily I was able to crawl underneath and find that when they took the filter off, they didn't clean any of the oil up and that's where it had been dripping from. I would keep a close eye on it obviously, see if you can reach down or up from the bottom with some shop rags and clean anymore up and then give it a little time. Since you have an actual dipstick, you'll be able to keep a close eye on the level vs trusting the MMI.

[BarneyM]

Ironically, I spent the $60 for it but didn't fully trust it. I bought the s4,/s5 version and have only used it once before. It is accurate. I can verify that now.but fresh oil is very difficult to read as it's so clear

I'm trying to figure out now if my housing or lid is cracked. After filling last night, I went for a ride, but after it was down a quarter cup and a tablespoon or two under the car. I filled last night again till full Another tablespoon or two this morning but the MMI says full even after a 30 minute drive.

So, my question is whether the few tablespoons on the garage floor are new due to a leak / crack in the housing or if they are the result of the original spill and the oil working its way through the belly pan. Any opinions?

Since the filter casing has a plastic lid and housing,, I'm trying to figure out how to tell visually which would be leaking if cracked. Hard to see or tell as it is cramped in there to get it completely dry from my original mishap.

I guess I need a week of driving to see if the level changes.

Get some "Gunk". Spray it on, wait a while, hose it off. Mess gone.

[Silver-Bolt]

Pull the belly pans and get to cleaning.

[spindlewood]

Get some "Gunk". Spray it on, wait a while, hose it off. Mess gone.
Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like an interesting product. Debating it versus Griots Engine Cleaner.

Pull the belly pans and get to cleaning.

Can this be done without jack stands?

[WtA4WtQ5]

Maybe. Use ramps. Much safer, and room for a creeper to easily move around to reach up and wipe things off.

[Nexus1155]

What dipstick is available for the B9's ? The B8 trick fits as well or? I would rather not order from ECS during the holidays especially. I know they changed hands, but are still pretty rough. Sadly most MMI or electric dipsticks are just dummy lights like most dash gauges. Be glad it's not an R56 Cooper.

[spindlewood]

Maybe. Use ramps. Much safer, and room for a creeper to easily move around to reach up and wipe things off.
Therein lies the rub: what decent affordable and portable ramps are there? I've done this research numerous times and always end up with nothing.


What dipstick is available for the B9's ? The B8 trick fits as well or? I would rather not order from ECS during the holidays especially. I know they changed hands, but are still pretty rough. Sadly most MMI or electric dipsticks are just dummy lights like most dash gauges. Be glad it's not an R56 Cooper.
ECS are the only quality ones I've seen. Actually, the only ones specific for the B9 I know of (unless something has been released since this spring). B8 dipstick won't work.

[rcprato]

Therein lies the rub: what decent affordable and portable ramps are there? I've done this research numerous times and always end up with nothing.

I’ve never been a fan of using ramps, do you have a Harbor Freight around you ? They have reasonably priced floor jacks and jack stands that I have been using for years.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-aluminum-rapid-pump-racing-floor-jack-64545.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html

And I use this to catch the jack point on the frame

https://www.amazon.com/YZ-Room-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B07R5T44Z7/ref=asc_df_B07R5T44Z7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385121954544&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10694427690048553410&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005680&hvtargid=pla-833720088469&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76842158285&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385121954544&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10694427690048553410&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005680&hvtargid=pla-833720088469

When I change oil I jack one side up, crawl under to remove belly pan and remove oil drain plug then lower car. Go up top, change filter and then jack up one side again and put it all back together with fresh copper crush washer for drain plug.
Even if jack came down with me under car I would not get crushed but my SQ5 is not lowered

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[WtA4WtQ5]

Therein lies the rub: what decent affordable and portable ramps are there? I've done this research numerous times and always end up with nothing.

Originally I bought a set of (2) Rhino ramps at Walmart for changing oil in our B7 A4 Cab. I bought (2) more of the identical ones to get my car level to change the trans fluid in my 2011.
Nice ramps, seem real sturdy. Available at Walmart and Home Depot for less than $40/pair. Have used jack stands and ramps and if any real wrenching takes place, I vote for ramps to be much safer. Much larger base of support, never seen a ramp tip over. Easier on your floor and vehicle.

[spindlewood]

I’ve never been a fan of using ramps, do you have a Harbor Freight around you ? They have reasonably priced floor jacks and jack stands that I have been using for years.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-aluminum-rapid-pump-racing-floor-jack-64545.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html

And I use this to catch the jack point on the frame

https://www.amazon.com/YZ-Room-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B07R5T44Z7/ref=asc_df_B07R5T44Z7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385121954544&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10694427690048553410&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005680&hvtargid=pla-833720088469&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76842158285&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385121954544&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10694427690048553410&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005680&hvtargid=pla-833720088469

When I change oil I jack one side up, crawl under to remove belly pan and remove oil drain plug then lower car. Go up top, change filter and then jack up one side again and put it all back together with fresh copper crush washer for drain plug.
Even if jack came down with me under car I would not get crushed but my SQ5 is not lowered

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Since the exposed pinch weld jacking point is only big enough for one tool, do you use your jack on a section adjacent to the pinch weld (with a coating) and then slip the jack onto the place where the pinch weld is just exposed metal? I have guessed the support weld runs the length of the side under the door but haven't wanted to presume and lift where the pinch weld is not exposed only to find it isn't strong or stable.


Originally I bought a set of (2) Rhino ramps at Walmart for changing oil in our B7 A4 Cab. I bought (2) more of the identical ones to get my car level to change the trans fluid in my 2011.
Nice ramps, seem real sturdy. Available at Walmart and Home Depot for less than $40/pair. Have used jack stands and ramps and if any real wrenching takes place, I vote for ramps to be much safer. Much larger base of support, never seen a ramp tip over. Easier on your floor and vehicle.

I am almost convinced to go this route. What gives me pause are the few one-star reviews on Amazon and Wal-Mart where these ramps have cracked after a few uses. I guess these defects are the exceptions, but I'd pay a few extra dollars for ones that can be used over and over without worrying about cheap materials. Do you know if the SQ5 has enough clearance to use 4 of these?

[rcprato]

This is where I put the puck to jack the car up (this is our Touareg but same on SQ5)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201215/f6ef08e9733c06ad009e4cb969dddf75.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201215/c7653026b6d92ca35cfdacf9048983a7.jpg
If I’m only crawling under car for a short period of time to drain oil I trust floor jack.
If I’m taking the wheel off then I find a spot like this I can trust to hold the vehicle up safely
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201215/a37f75e316d1cb4ab1a969770e4fa09a.jpg


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[subaruski]

+1 for Rhino ramps. I see a set of Quickjacks in the future but for the time being these work well.

https://i.imgur.com/7gjiIjc.jpg

[rcprato]

Why the boards under the rear wheel ?

[subaruski]

I was making a few adjustments on the AWE exhaust. Needed additional working clearance.


Why the boards under the rear wheel ?

[StylinS-line]

Guys I’m just curious what dipstick is the correct one? My father in law just bought a 2018 and I looked around but didn’t see an exact answer , like to get it for him by Xmas lol..

Thanks for a link or part number
His is the 2.0

[blchandl2]

Guys I’m just curious what dipstick is the correct one? My father in law just bought a 2018 and I looked around but didn’t see an exact answer , like to get it for him by Xmas lol..

Thanks for a link or part number
His is the 2.0

Watching. I am looking for one also for our 2.0.

[WtA4WtQ5]

I am almost convinced to go this route. What gives me pause are the few one-star reviews on Amazon and Wal-Mart where these ramps have cracked after a few uses. I guess these defects are the exceptions, but I'd pay a few extra dollars for ones that can be used over and over without worrying about cheap materials. Do you know if the SQ5 has enough clearance to use 4 of these?

Never had an issue with mine. Probably makes sense to buy or at least pick them up in the store. That way you can check/inspect that the plastic parts are fully filled and molded correctly.
Should be plenty of clearance with vehicle stock height, worked fine with a much lower A4 Cab for me for just the front. One time using you will question why you did it any other way.

[spindlewood]

How many days can oil continue to drip from the pan? It's been a week and still getting fresh oil on paper underneath.

[Silver-Bolt]

I use Rhino ramps for both our SQ5 and our Raptor. The Raptor weighs in at 6k lbs. Never had an issue with the ramps. The amount of oil that was spilled could drip for a very long time. The underbelly covers have that carpet like material on the top side. They are like a sponge. Same material that is used in the wheel wells. Pull the cover and use some degreaser.

[Just_Westy]

How many days can oil continue to drip from the pan? It's been a week and still getting fresh oil on paper underneath.

It needs to be washed off with a degreaser as it's probably coating your entire underbody with oil and making a right mess of things.

My brother is a mechanic and uses a vacuum pump to change oil from the top now on his cars and given the filters on these are easily accessed from the top I will be doing the same on mine once the free Audi services run out next year.

He reckons he could change the oil wearing a white suit now without getting a mark on it :)

[spindlewood]

Thanks, everyone for the input. I ordered a pair of Rhino Ramps (11912ABMI) and a Gallon of Simple Green. I've got my Christmas week project set.


Originally I bought a set of (2) Rhino ramps at Walmart for changing oil in our B7 A4 Cab. I bought (2) more of the identical ones to get my car level to change the trans fluid in my 2011.
I see another set of 2 ramps in my future. Starting with a pair as well.


+1 for Rhino ramps. I see a set of Quickjacks in the future but for the time being these work well.
I've looked at Quickjacks. Just can't pull the trigger unless I've got a job worth the investment.


I use Rhino ramps for both our SQ5 and our Raptor. The Raptor weighs in at 6k lbs. Never had an issue with the ramps. The amount of oil that was spilled could drip for a very long time. The underbelly covers have that carpet like material on the top side. They are like a sponge. Same material that is used in the wheel wells. Pull the cover and use some degreaser.
I really appreciate the complete picture of what is going on - gave me what I needed to order and get moving on this.


It needs to be washed off with a degreaser as it's probably coating your entire underbody with oil and making a right mess of things.

My brother is a mechanic and uses a vacuum pump to change oil from the top now on his cars and given the filters on these are easily accessed from the top I will be doing the same on mine once the free Audi services run out next year.

He reckons he could change the oil wearing a white suit now without getting a mark on it :)

I use an electric vacuum pump and have ALL the oil out in 7 minutes. The job is done in a half-hour... not accounting for carelessness :)