Cluster Reboot and Suspension Clunk - 2016 S6

[SexualChocolate]

Seeing if people in the group can help me figure this mess out.

I have a really weird issue that has happened twice now. While driving my instrument cluster will reboot. I don't lose any power, MMI doesn't reboot, just the gauge cluster.

It started about 2 weeks ago. I don't see how this would be related, but it was after doing my intake, sway bars (H&R) and exhaust. The exhaust is the Milltek system with the valve sonic. The valves aren't active currently as I am awaiting the extension cable to hook up the driver side.

I also have a front suspension rattle. Naturally I would guess sway bars, but when I checked them they are tight at the mounting points and the end links are fine. The easiest way to describe the sound is a clunk similar to when you haven't fully tightened the top strut after doing a strut change.

Oh, and the car seems to shift a bit harder lately. I haven't done my TCU tune yet. It doesn't feel sloppy, just harder on heavy acceleration.

Appreciate any insight from the group!

[robocop47]

Interested to know what you find out on the suspension

[hmuller]

In my case the clunk is always the end links. I'm on my third set of Eurocode end links in the front and second in the back and the car has less than 20k miles.

[SexualChocolate]

In my case the clunk is always the end links. I'm on my third set of Eurocode end links in the front and second in the back and the car has less than 20k miles.

That's good to know. I said fuck it and dropped it off at my local shop today; waiting to hear what they find out. I am honestly guessing it's the damn end links.

[bahula03]

With the clunk, not sure if you've already seen this, but a possibility to investigate if you haven't https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/751287-Audi-S6-Front-End-Clunk-solved

[digdah]

For the front end clunk as bahula03 has suggested, check the cross brace to make sure it is torqued to spec. It drove me nuts for almost a year with multiple trips wasted trips to the dealer. Sure way to tell it is the cross brace is the clunk mostly occurs when the chassis twists rather than an up/down motion i.e. going over a bump. Mine would happen repeatedly when coming out of my sloped garage at an angle.

[SexualChocolate]

Update: mine is due to the driver side lower control arm leaking fluid. So doing a full control arm (uppers and lowers) replacement and just doing a full overhaul.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[widebodyfx]

I had full overhaul of the front arms in addition to KW V3, happy with the results and worth the effort and money. Friend drove my TDI and said it was super smooth and compliant.

[SexualChocolate]

I had full overhaul of the front arms in addition to KW V3, happy with the results and worth the effort and money. Friend drove my TDI and said it was super smooth and compliant.

I didn't drive it and I'm your only friend.

[gk1]

Update: mine is due to the driver side lower control arm leaking hydraulic fluid. So doing a full control arm (uppers and lowers) replacement and just doing a full overhaul.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you are able can you get the old p/n off of the curved lower control arms? and also your build date.
I am curious because I also experienced premature failure of that lower control arm on my 2015 S6 and it was my understanding that part was superseded by the time I had the replacement done in April of 2017 @ 25k miles. I would have thought that a 2016 would already have the newer part, but maybe it was on the cusp of being revised and you have an early vs. late build.
These are the new p/n's I had installed 4G0-407-693-L , 4G0-407-694-L

[TexasDfwS4]

Battery

[digdah]

Update: mine is due to the driver side lower control arm leaking fluid. So doing a full control arm (uppers and lowers) replacement and just doing a full overhaul.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you going with OEM or aftermarket? If aftermarket which ones? I am seriously thinking of doing this in a month or 2.