Limping at higher RPM P2293 P2296

[Hotohori]

Hey there,
I’ve started having issues with my 2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T Quatro. The issue started about two weeks ago, I parked it for the last two weeks waiting on a quick fix part which ended up not resolving the main issue.

The issue started off with poor acceleration, with the engine stuttering when speeding up. By the time I got it home it was sputtering at idle hardly staying on at all. After a cursory search online I found the cheapest, easiest solution might be a bad High-pressure fuel sensor which just came in today. Swapping it out and letting the car run for about 2 mins at idle caused the sputtering at idle to go away. However, revving the engine past 3k RPM’s causes the stuttering to return and the EPC light to come on briefly. Letting off the throttle resumes a smooth idle.

Work I’ve done on the car in the past 2-5 years includes replacing the cam follower, cam chain, cam chain tensioner, all gaskets down to the head gasket, fuel and oil filters, Sparkplugs and coil-packs, and the N205 Valve.
I’m leaning towards replacing the high- and low-pressure fuel pumps now but wanted a second opinion before I bit the bullet on that expense.

Thank you for any and all help.

[rhfosu]

When I saw those codes on my GTI it was the HPFP.

Did you log the LPFP with VCDS?

It is easy to get into parts darts with a fueling issue.

[esandes]

Agreed. Fuel issues are exacerbated when in high demand/duty. Hold off on the LPFP until you get data from logging.

[Hotohori]

Sadly the tools I'm using are a bit limited or out of date. The basic codes were pulled with Torque Lite which can't seem to pick up only any fuel sensors.
I pulled out my old OBDwiz I had picked up probably a decade ago and was able to pull a bit more, although it doesn't provide much on explanations.
These are all the fuel related values that didn't show '0' across the board. I revved up to about 4000, four times over the course of the logs.
https://i.imgur.com/Fa0ppAi.png

[rhfosu]

Sadly the tools I'm using are a bit limited or out of date. The basic codes were pulled with Torque Lite which can't seem to pick up only any fuel sensors.
I pulled out my old OBDwiz I had picked up probably a decade ago and was able to pull a bit more, although it doesn't provide much on explanations.
These are all the fuel related values that didn't show '0' across the board. I revved up to about 4000, four times over the course of the logs.
https://i.imgur.com/Fa0ppAi.pngI would find somebody local with vcds.

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[Cyrik]

99.9% sure it's the HPFP... p2293 is a code reserved as a mechanical failure of the N276 valve. Seen these exact codes before on another A4. It's the sensor on top that goes bad. Unfortunately only way to get a new N276 is to buy a new pump, I bet the mechanical part of the pump is fine.

WITH THAT BEING SAID... Since a new pump is expensive it wouldn't hurt to check the wiring going to the pump before you bite the bullet.

Since you've already replaced your cam follower before I assume you already know how to swap it out. Don't drop your new pump like I did!! 😁

[EvolutionArmory]

P2293 almost always points to a bad N276 which is valve on top of the HPFP. Before you go replacing it, check that the cam lobe isn't mangled and make sure the fuel line going to the pump isn't stating to deteriorate if you have the barbed fitting and soft line. If you have the banjo fitting, that's not an issue.

P2296 is a little more direct. It's telling you that there is a short to plus on the electrical side of the HPFP. As long as the fuses and relays that supply it power are good and the wiring going to the HPFP isn't messed up, you can almost guarantee you need a new HPFP.

Also, you will almost never get any useful info from just sitting in your driveway revving the engine with most data logging devices.

If this was my car I would back probe the HPFP electrical connector and make sure its getting power. If it is, I'd replace the pump. If it's not, find out why it's not.

[EvolutionArmory]

And find someone with VCDS to scan it. VCDS not only reads the code but it also tells you under what conditions the fault occurred. It can help you duplicate the problem.

[Hotohori]

Thank you all for your suggestions.

In reply to Cyrik: Last time I had to pull the HPFP I ended up stripping the brass fitting on it with the banjo bolt when I tried to put it back on. Just about as bad as dropping it because the only website I could find with a replacement fitting for it was charging $50 lol.

In reply to EvolutionArmory: Thankfully and sadly, the fuel lines for the high-pressure fuel pump on my car are stainless steel. Putting the intake manifold back on while working with them was worse than reattaching the exhaust manifold, even with the 1/2" clearance.

I'll keep you you all updated on what I'm able to find out. Thanks again for the help.

[Jayz691]

I would def get something to do some logging. I use Obdeleven, and cost $80. Use it whenever I have an issue. But for now, would get a multimeter and check your wiring as stated. If you plan on keeping the car, get a diagnostic tool..

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[EvolutionArmory]

So many issues with these cars can be figured out with a 20 dollar multimeter and the factory repair manual. Or you can log into audi’s repair manual website, Erwin, and get a day pass for 30 bucks I think. There you can actually use the same repair and diagnosis plans the dealer uses. You can get wire diagrams, resistance specs of parts and other things. And the best part is, with that day pass you can look up a ton of shit.

A wire diagram, a multimeter and knowing how to use them is the best way to avoid parts darts. Usually it’s as easy as asking 2 questions and finding the answer. Does the suspect part have power going to it? Is the internal resistance of the part in spec?

[Jayz691]

So many issues with these cars can be figured out with a 20 dollar multimeter and the factory repair manual. Or you can log into audi’s repair manual website, Erwin, and get a day pass for 30 bucks I think. There you can actually use the same repair and diagnosis plans the dealer uses. You can get wire diagrams, resistance specs of parts and other things. And the best part is, with that day pass you can look up a ton of shit.

A wire diagram, a multimeter and knowing how to use them is the best way to avoid parts darts. Usually it’s as easy as asking 2 questions and finding the answer. Does the suspect part have power going to it? Is the internal resistance of the part in spec?Totally agree. See so many post, asking for help, with a $1000 list of parts already changed, lol. When should have aasked before changing $1000 in parts.

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[Hotohori]

I attempted to ask around for a tester, but sadly couldn’t find anyone with one on hand. So, I went ahead an picked up a HPFP since it seemed everything I could find online was pointing to that as the primary issue, and I figured I’d buy a logging tool afterwards for future problems.

I’m happy to report the issue seems to have been resolved with the new HPFP. I took it for a test drive yesterday with no issues to speak of, outside the brakes being a little harder to push after sitting for three weeks.
I didn’t buy a new thrust sensor (G410) with the pump so the issue did seem to be related to the N276.

In response to EvolutionArmory: I do have a multimeter on hand, but I have a hard time finding the specs of the part to determine if something had shorted or gone bad.

In response to Jayz691: I’m not sure if you’re referring to my parts already changed list, but all that work was done on a few other problems that occurred about four or five years ago. The cam chain tensioner broke off from the spring and lodge itself into cam sprockets, it caused the engine to seize momentarily and jumped the timing about an inch on the belt. Originally, we took it to a repair shop, they said “the timing was off, no compression, chances are the engines dead; we don’t do engine rebuilds here but we’ll swap in a new engine for $8,000”. I refused and had it towed back to my house.
From there I bought a repair manual, tore it down a bit, and reset the timing. Cranking it over by hand I could feel and hear that there was still compression with every cylinder compressing in time. I went ahead and bought about $1000 in parts, tore off the cylinder head, took out the cam chain housing, and replaced the cam chain and cam tensioner. From the debris inside the cam chain housing, I could tell that the plastic wedge must have gotten into one of the cam sprockets and jumped the timing slightly before being torn to shreds. I went ahead and replaced all the gaskets, timing belt, etc, and got it back up and running.

Thank you all for your suggestions and help with this. I’ll be sure to pick up a proper logging tool before the next issues arises.

[rhfosu]

I attempted to ask around for a tester, but sadly couldn’t find anyone with one on hand. So, I went ahead an picked up a HPFP since it seemed everything I could find online was pointing to that as the primary issue, and I figured I’d buy a logging tool afterwards for future problems.

I’m happy to report the issue seems to have been resolved with the new HPFP. I took it for a test drive yesterday with no issues to speak of, outside the brakes being a little harder to push after sitting for three weeks.
I didn’t buy a new thrust sensor (G410) with the pump so the issue did seem to be related to the N276.

In response to EvolutionArmory: I do have a multimeter on hand, but I have a hard time finding the specs of the part to determine if something had shorted or gone bad.

In response to Jayz691: I’m not sure if you’re referring to my parts already changed list, but all that work was done on a few other problems that occurred about four or five years ago. The cam chain tensioner broke off from the spring and lodge itself into cam sprockets, it caused the engine to seize momentarily and jumped the timing about an inch on the belt. Originally, we took it to a repair shop, they said “the timing was off, no compression, chances are the engines dead; we don’t do engine rebuilds here but we’ll swap in a new engine for $8,000”. I refused and had it towed back to my house.
From there I bought a repair manual, tore it down a bit, and reset the timing. Cranking it over by hand I could feel and hear that there was still compression with every cylinder compressing in time. I went ahead and bought about $1000 in parts, tore off the cylinder head, took out the cam chain housing, and replaced the cam chain and cam tensioner. From the debris inside the cam chain housing, I could tell that the plastic wedge must have gotten into one of the cam sprockets and jumped the timing slightly before being torn to shreds. I went ahead and replaced all the gaskets, timing belt, etc, and got it back up and running.

Thank you all for your suggestions and help with this. I’ll be sure to pick up a proper logging tool before the next issues arises.

Good news. Symptoms and codes were very similar to when my HPFP failed. Always happy to see consistency lol.

[esandes]

Cool

[jsilva01]

I’m troubleshooting the same codes:

P2293
P2296
P0087

I had replaced the oil filter housing and when I first started it up after the repair it had a rough idle but no codes. With subsequent starts the car ran fine, and it ran fine for a few weeks.

Then the other morning it had difficulty starting and had a rough idle again, but this time it threw those codes. I drove it around and the engine sounded fine and the AFR was fine but it was ‘limp’. Very slow. The EPC light came on when the RPMs got close to 3k.

I’ll check the connectors but others on this thread suggested testing the wiring. I have manuals but I’m having trouble finding wiring information.

Can anyone supply information on testing the wiring for the N276 valve?