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ultima
09-08-2020, 03:59 PM
Hi guys.

I’ve been trying to fix this since last Friday. I am tuned on stage 2 and was 2 stepping when my rpm gauge fluttered down and my engine sounded like it was clicking.

Wouldn’t start anymore, so I checked and it’s in time, no damage to pistons, got a p0321 and p0322, changed crank sensor no start but codes are gone. Got new plugs and they’re bone dry after cranking a million times, no spark and no fuel.



I’m at a loss. I checked fuses on the driver side panel, under steering wheel, under Ecu, all good.


I have no idea as to what it could be. Compression is good at 170+ on 1,2,3 and 120 on 4


----UPDATE----

Welp, figured I'd update this thread directly because why not?


Rod #4 couldn't take it much longer and bent pretty bad, it sheared off the piston squirter and was bent far enough to both notch the bottom of the block a little bit (well below where the rings come to, no other damage) and the piston was hitting the reluctor wheel each time it came down, causing it to bend and break a few windows.

My assumption is that I was on lower octane fuel and that didn't mix well with all the fuel that came with 2 stepping, this was the night after a ~13 hour road trip where I used to run 87 to save on costs while going light on the car, never again obviously.


After getting an offer from a buddy who owns a shop, he towed my car here from Charlotte to his garage (3 hours each way) and agreed to help me pull and reinstall the motor+tranny while I do all of the engine work.

I decided to go "all out" on the block, and picked up IE Tuscan I-Beam's from a user here on AZ and got CP Carrillo pistons with @ stock bore. Did preventative maintenance (tstat, filter housing, coolant flange, both chains and both belts, motor mounts, others) and assembled it back with mahle main bearings, calico acl rod bearings, new reluctor wheel, new squirter, and some other stuff that I'm probably forgetting to add.


Definitely over built for now as I'm still K03 but I figured that it would be in my best interest to build it now instead of replacing with stock internals as I plan on keeping this car forever and BT'ing it soon-ish.


Here's a few photos of the process, very happy with how it came out for my first ever engine rebuild.



Day after:
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Everything else:
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First startup in 10 months

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy_NDz3XL90


All done and happy :)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5xDIv-lWuwRVB24n9pyB8wnma4daBasoltiOL-xxpwQHMp4mmH1H7_FHKcbO38zwhYtFVp-qSqW5_xPJR8ngrILN9wo_rafIC6flmJLKuvph6R6lPxcWSliDA pEQFI0c9tRoquTQK6zyq1dX1onTZO56OJGyDPEZtzEIBCV2HMr TQg4_Oi95qK6ETwWxLg5DZ6zZFlZbjYh4emSf5u3UsMsSZBfbX 7ZXYIQ4HzFCSublsRNNL9nuebfHASkHKMG2nFdGO9fsW0CgiAt qFK4nV6nj8sQhuOxPdd7m_9V8ndHTnom0xMsu5Mtxq_LmQBeZj w5h1kzK7V_BkcSRGKLrIUpGp5JR_m55BQ-DBUKxo1zkpoNr3NynivK8ZDP9PBnKqmunrUpgh7nArtFyx197q 4HOC4qfElV5U9yJSRClTvOW1TWNmvOR2Tt6_MjLgBLIm593CQw u12AQntqf3HRkXMd6cY5JbQaYMUyk9IaCxtbCyMfW-PdHBmx03RmkDhO3kTG1Tgbv-Ri4L6ue8VbmGcuqs32Rk_KwbUiTkbd00Z4-PWsrsDMIPUbeMmftlZsdvhkDO4aDzQE6EVuluX4-RHz4EjbhJ11BtJxstOU5dgXyjMyn96PP8IP94vwydBFgQLxKsE h9qRb3-54_PEkpv3Q7jD8d3R28tODBBQnP6_I_D1RRQdeo-4UQmHxBv290_FchcYlq9MRsVjvDigT5xvc0QQ=w668-h890-no?authuser=0

EvolutionArmory
09-09-2020, 04:52 AM
Maybe you burned out a valve on cylinder 4 or washed that cylinder out with all that extra fuel your 2 step is dumping into the combustion chamber. 50 PSI difference is substantial.

EvolutionArmory
09-09-2020, 04:58 AM
Cylinder 4 obviously has some problems but I guess focus on the engine speed sensor codes. Does the plug for it get power and ground? If not, find out why. If yes, replace the sensor.

ultima
09-09-2020, 08:26 AM
Ive already replaced the sensor and it reads on VCDS 160.180.200.0.160.180.200 rpm etc

Theiceman
09-10-2020, 05:58 PM
That sounds like its picking up tach pulse. Or the equivalent of it so that system is working..
Ive already replaced the sensor and it reads on VCDS 160.180.200.0.160.180.200 rpm etc

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Theiceman
09-10-2020, 05:59 PM
120 is more than enough to support compresion so put that on tbe back burner for later . How did you validate no spark ? Spray starter fluid into the intake ?.

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ultima
09-10-2020, 07:14 PM
120 is more than enough to support compresion so put that on tbe back burner for later . How did you validate no spark ? Spray starter fluid into the intake ?.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

Yup, sprayed from intake and from pcv port on intake manifold. Also I've replaced the spark plugs just to be safe after this issue, and they're both bone dry and without any sign of arcing. I've also tried to get a spark by putting a plug in a coil pack and grounding against the engine, to no result.

Theiceman
09-10-2020, 08:29 PM
Yup that should have sparked for sure... and you replaced crank sensor which is the most likely candidate.
Hmmmm....
Some type of theft disable maybe ?.did you try the other key ?
Just thfowing out ideas..

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Theiceman
09-10-2020, 08:30 PM
I hear people speak.of relays under the ecu but not sure what they do.

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ovilla
09-10-2020, 11:40 PM
Disconnect the battery and then reconnect it - to reset everything. Also try the other key as your key may be bad.

EvolutionArmory
09-11-2020, 03:40 AM
Did you check to see if you melted your cat converter with all that fuel? Do you have a cat converter or test pipe?

And if you really want to verify that you have no spark you should be back probing your coil packs and testing for voltage and testing the coil with a coil on plug tester or testing spark plug.

Back probe the coil and see if you have 12v power and signal wire power. If you’re not getting power to the coils, then check the wiring diagram and find the fuse and relay for that circuit in a repair manual.

ultima
09-11-2020, 05:08 AM
Battery disconnect to clear was already done to no result. I have a test pipe so no cat, and I’ve checked literally all relays and fuses and they all seem ok (Ecu box, driver side fuses, fuses and relays under drivers kick panel)

I haven’t checked for voltage directly at the coil pack yet

EvolutionArmory
09-11-2020, 06:10 AM
What does checking fuses and relays mean? Was a multimeter involved?

ultima
09-11-2020, 09:17 AM
Fuses checked by pulling them and visually inspecting, relays under Ecu were checked with a multimeter and a 9v battery.

Also would like to add that when attempting to do an injector output test via obdeleven it stops at 0.1s and says not available.

ovilla
09-11-2020, 11:39 PM
I’d be swapping out relays and then doing a voltage check on all the wires coming out of the ignition. Also check all grounds. Please try your other key too as I’ve seen chipped keys stop working.

ultima
09-13-2020, 05:12 PM
Don’t have another key with me since I’m far from home atm, upon checking with vcds it appears that my maf and g28 reading drops to 0 every .3s...

Theiceman
09-14-2020, 07:01 AM
Don’t have another key with me since I’m far from home atm, upon checking with vcds it appears that my maf and g28 reading drops to 0 every .3s...

it doesnt set any codes after 30 seconds of cranking ?

ultima
09-14-2020, 07:46 AM
Sets p0321 and p0322

Theiceman
09-14-2020, 08:02 AM
id be backprobing at the ecu to see if it is seeing the pulses from the sensors.

ultima
09-14-2020, 08:12 AM
Which pin should I check for? Also to note the connection appears to be perfect checking with a multimeter between the crank sensor connector and ecu.

Theiceman
09-14-2020, 01:56 PM
im not sure of the pinout of the ecu , maybe someone has it .. but you would want to check between your signal and ground with a scope if you can get one while cranking .. almost looks like the car isnt seeing one of the pulses.

how did this start exactly ? just randomly died ?

FatMongo
09-14-2020, 02:36 PM
Which pin should I check for? Also to note the connection appears to be perfect checking with a multimeter between the crank sensor connector and ecu.

Later tonight, I'll find you the AllData diagnostic steps for those codes and post them here.

ultima
09-14-2020, 03:07 PM
Later tonight, I'll find you the AllData diagnostic steps for those codes and post them here.

I appreciate it, please do




im not sure of the pinout of the ecu , maybe someone has it .. but you would want to check between your signal and ground with a scope if you can get one while cranking .. almost looks like the car isnt seeing one of the pulses.

how did this start exactly ? just randomly died ?


I wrote it in a bit more detail in my OP, but it happened while 2 stepping.

Theiceman
09-14-2020, 03:53 PM
I guess i have no idea what 2 stepping is

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audilove3
09-14-2020, 04:14 PM
1 ... 2... thats 2 stepping jk its a stage 2 upgrade who beats the shit out of his car by drag racing?

ultima
09-14-2020, 04:18 PM
2 step aka launch control. Holds rpms at 4K and pops while shooting flames..

FatMongo
09-14-2020, 05:39 PM
Sets p0321 and p0322

AllData's diagnosis steps indicate to check the Engine Speed Sensor (G28) but gives directions for checking the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62).

The forum isnt allowing me to upload a .pdf, but I can email you the .pdf for checking the coolant temp sensor if you PM me.

Rosstech has some procedures for checking the G28 for a P0321/P0322. The G28 is the Crankshaft Position Sensor and is located on the lower drivers side back corner of the engine block.

Rosstech link:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16705/P0321/000801


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac9H59li27o

FatMongo
09-14-2020, 05:43 PM
The engine is cranking, just not starting? Right?

EDIT: I see in your OP that you already changed the crank sensor.

Have you take a look at your grounds to make sure they are clean and secure?

ultima
09-18-2020, 11:03 AM
All connections seem great, I even got a replacement ecu to test on the cheap with no luck. Same issue, here is a graph of the rpm/maf. It keeps dropping to 0 which I think is preventing it from starting.

https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/p1080x2048/119828921_3394888247270573_6330422497354679934_n.j pg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_sid=b96e70&_nc_ohc=GIxAlVQxrAQAX8aUr37&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&tp=6&oh=cddaaac39129a7f45ed850aec1002a0f&oe=5F8892E9

Cyrik
09-18-2020, 07:50 PM
So I've been looking over this thread since you first posted, and all I can say is I feel sorry for you. This sucks! However it's good that you were able to swap ECU's to see if anything changed. You can rule that out for sure.

I DO NOT think you have a wiring problem here... I know you have a test pipe on the car but if this were my car it would be back to stock to rule out any possibilities of the tune interfering with a no-start issue.

Starting from the beginning..... I think the reason why you have cyl #4 low on compression is because you maxed out your injectors when you were 2-stepping, or one of the injectors called it quits. I'm not stage 2 but from research Stage 2(+) is truly the limit for our injectors. As a result, you ran really lean on that cylinder and started burning up your rings most likely (or timing advanced too much and you nicked a valve with the piston but that isn't likely). I just had a buddy of mine this week have something similar happen with his B58 bimmer (he's on E85 though) and only got 30psi on one cylinder. I'd like to note this also happened while 2-stepping. It was confirmed that he maxed out his injectors and fried piston #6.

There's 4 things you need to make a crankshaft go round: Air, fuel, spark, and compression. Like others here have said, yes 120 on #4 is low but if compression is good on the rest that shouldn't prevent a start. Rule that out. You have air going into the engine (pretty obvious if you don't) so rule that out too. That leaves fuel and spark left.

I was working on a 2.8 A6 a while back for a friend with a no-start issue as well and pulled the coilpacks out and cranked the engine. There was a very obvious visible spark coming from the tips of the coilpacks (DO NOT DO THIS FOR TOO LONG, it's honestly really sketchy having an open spark), this might be worth a try to isolate a coilpack/harness failure.

If you can confirm spark is working that only leaves fuel left. At that point I suggest taking off the intake manifold and taking a peek at those injectors.

Also, did you use an OEM crank sensor when you replaced it? Was the sensor mounted completely flush with the block when you changed it? It has to fit perfectly otherwise the sensor could have a bad reading for RPM's, and could throw a code. You also said you checked timing... how did you check it? Did you pull the timing cover off, turn the crank to TDC and check to make sure the crank pulley and cam pulley were lined up? (Not doubting your experience by any means but just ruling out a timing issue).

The fact that you got a crank sensor code worries me and could entirely be the reason why your car won't turn over in the first place, functioning or not; Electronically actuated injectors (our injectors) in common rail systems NEED the crankshaft sensor to function properly or they won't fire. And I'm assuming spark on our cars works the same way.

Hope at least some of this info will help in some way cause I'm in a story-telling kind of mood today (sorry for the long post) 🤣

ultima
09-18-2020, 09:11 PM
Hey Cyrik,

I really appreciate the detailed post! You made some very good points.


Unfortunately it’s not very easy on my car (tip :/) to change the test pipe and the fact that I no longer have the catalytic converter.

The sensor was a Bosch OEM replacement. I didn’t want to chance it with other non OE suppliers so I went Bosch. Yes it’s mounted flush and there’s no room for adjustment as it’s just one bolt that holds it in one way.

I checked timing with the timing mark on the cam pulley and the harmonic balancer, and they’re definitely in time. Also checked using an extension on the number one piston lol.


What’s your best advice on checking spark? Should I have a plug in and ground it to attempt to get a spark?

Also funny thing is I have rs4 injectors on hand just in case for when I wanted to run a bigger turbo, if only I could use them without a retune haha.

Cyrik
09-19-2020, 07:38 AM
Hey Cyrik,

I really appreciate the detailed post! You made some very good points.


Unfortunately it’s not very easy on my car (tip :/) to change the test pipe and the fact that I no longer have the catalytic converter.

The sensor was a Bosch OEM replacement. I didn’t want to chance it with other non OE suppliers so I went Bosch. Yes it’s mounted flush and there’s no room for adjustment as it’s just one bolt that holds it in one way.

I checked timing with the timing mark on the cam pulley and the harmonic balancer, and they’re definitely in time. Also checked using an extension on the number one piston lol.


What’s your best advice on checking spark? Should I have a plug in and ground it to attempt to get a spark?

Also funny thing is I have rs4 injectors on hand just in case for when I wanted to run a bigger turbo, if only I could use them without a retune haha.Like I said above, pulling the coil packs out is kinda sketchy but easy to see if you get spark. If you don't you need to keep looking around the crank sensor, SOMETHING isn't right otherwise it wouldn't be throwing a code

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ultima
09-23-2020, 02:09 PM
Like I said above, pulling the coil packs out is kinda sketchy but easy to see if you get spark. If you don't you need to keep looking around the crank sensor, SOMETHING isn't right otherwise it wouldn't be throwing a code

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Sorry to update a bit late, but yeah no spark. Coils all check out and they have power, checked another set of coil packs that were brand new with the same result. Cams are in time when checked by removing valve recover.


I’m so lost on this car. I even ran separate wiring to the Ecu for the sensor.

Cyrik
09-23-2020, 06:02 PM
I don't feel good about that sensor. I know it's Bosch OEM, but I don't think it'd hurt if you threw one more sensor at it from an OEM source just to be sure. I'm sure you'd be able to return it if it doesn't solve your problem.

What's stopping your car from running is an issue with that sensor of some sorts. Don't give up yet! It wouldn't throw a code if there wasn't something wrong. Does anyone know if there's revisions/different model-year sensors, like a vin split?

ultima
09-23-2020, 06:05 PM
I don't feel good about that sensor. I know it's Bosch OEM, but I don't think it'd hurt if you threw one more sensor at it from an OEM source just to be sure. I'm sure you'd be able to return it if it doesn't solve your problem.

What's stopping your car from running is an issue with that sensor of some sorts. Don't give up yet! It wouldn't throw a code if there wasn't something wrong. Does anyone know if there's revisions/different model-year sensors, like a vin split?


I thought that too but even after returning the one I initially bought the replacement didn’t change anything..

I’m not aware of anything like that when it comes to revisions, I’m certain it’s the correct sensor as the Bosch PN’s are the same on both.

Cyrik
09-23-2020, 06:18 PM
I thought that too but even after returning the one I initially bought the replacement didn’t change anything..

I’m not aware of anything like that when it comes to revisions, I’m certain it’s the correct sensor as the Bosch PN’s are the same on both.

Sorry I forgot you already tried a new 2nd sensor.

...how does your flywheel look? Pretty much the last thing I can think of.

ultima
09-23-2020, 10:32 PM
Sorry I forgot you already tried a new 2nd sensor.

...how does your flywheel look? Pretty much the last thing I can think of.

Stuck a camera down there and it looks exactly as it should. Compared photos of a flywheel for this engine with mine and they’re identical without any damage.

ultima
09-26-2020, 01:15 PM
Also checked the hpfp and while it’s not in the best condition it’s how it was whenever I changed my follower this February. Im all out of ideas with this car

- - - Updated - - -

I could maybe also have fuel but wouldn’t my plugs be fouled in that case?

esandes
09-26-2020, 05:09 PM
Can you manually turn the engine? How does the oil taste and its level?

The oil tasting is a vicegrip garage shout out.

Or would it be possible to jump start it rolling from neutral?

ultima
09-27-2020, 11:24 AM
Can you manually turn the engine? How does the oil taste and its level?

The oil tasting is a vicegrip garage shout out.

Or would it be possible to jump start it rolling from neutral?


I can turn it, it’s not locked up the starter can happily spin the engine over, oil level good, not tasting lmao.

Auto, can’t drop start.

Cyrik
09-27-2020, 01:06 PM
Also checked the hpfp and while it’s not in the best condition it’s how it was whenever I changed my follower this February. Im all out of ideas with this car

- - - Updated - - -

I could maybe also have fuel but wouldn’t my plugs be fouled in that case?Yes they would be fouled if you had fuel. You'd smell it as well.

Quoting my self again here:

Electronically actuated injectors (our injectors) in common rail systems NEED the crankshaft sensor to function properly or they won't fire.

I'll try to keep it simple here: Your car will never run again until that crank sensor issue is resolved. Your engine won't have spark or fuel because your ECU recognizes an issue with figuring out the position of the crank. If the car doesn't know what position the crank is at, it doesn't know when to fire an injector or a spark. By not firing a spark or fuel your engine is essentially saving itself from failure.

If you still can't figure out the crank sensor issue, start over again. Not doubting your experience but maybe you missed something. You said you hooked up a different ECU so diagnosis from this point on should be clean cut and dry. You KNOW it's not a problem with the ECU or the rest of the car. Go through process of elimination.

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ultima
11-23-2020, 04:50 PM
Right, posting an update.

The car still does not run. However I've noticed that I only seem to have spark on cyl 2,3 (????) and it seems like I also only have fuel in 2,3 (looking down into the cylinders, those are the only ones that are wet after extended cranking.)


Does anyone know where the "G12" ground is? On a wiring diagram from indentifix, it says left rear of engine compartment but I cant exactly locate it or am mistaking it for another. I want to check this as the coils,ecu,maf use this ground and they're all a little suspect (crank sensor signal goes 250rpm to zero and back and maf does the same with its reading)

https://i.imgur.com/FPPEdA0.png


thanks!

Cyrik
11-23-2020, 07:23 PM
Right, posting an update.

The car still does not run. However I've noticed that I only seem to have spark on cyl 2,3 (????) and it seems like I also only have fuel in 2,3 (looking down into the cylinders, those are the only ones that are wet after extended cranking.)


Does anyone know where the "G12" ground is? On a wiring diagram from indentifix, it says left rear of engine compartment but I cant exactly locate it or am mistaking it for another. I want to check this as the coils,ecu,maf use this ground and they're all a little suspect (crank sensor signal goes 250rpm to zero and back and maf does the same with its reading)

Glad you're still at it! 😁 hopefully in high spirits too.

We might be getting somewhere here... If you've confirmed cylinders 2 and 3 ARE receiving fuel/spark then that's a good sign! However I have no idea what it means by G12 ground... Identifix is weird like that sometimes.

The ground in question I THINK identifix is referring to is the one that sits on the passenger-side under the turbo/starter. It's the only ground on the car that connects the block to the chassis IIRC. Look for a black wire mounted to the frame rail on the left side of the engine bay. I don't remember having to connect any other ground coming off of the harness if that's what you're thinking... But I could be totally wrong/forgetful on that.

Also the fact that you can get some sort of reading from the crank sensor is also a really good sign... 250rpm sounds about right when cranking.

Edit: it could also be referring to the chassis to negative terminal on the battery, refer to this thread for a better visualization (it's for a B6 1.8T but it's essentially the same ground layout) https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/528124-DIY-Big-3-Ground-Upgrade

ultima
11-23-2020, 08:24 PM
Glad you're still at it! 😁 hopefully in high spirits too.

We might be getting somewhere here... If you've confirmed cylinders 2 and 3 ARE receiving fuel/spark then that's a good sign! However I have no idea what it means by G12 ground... Identifix is weird like that sometimes.

The ground in question I THINK identifix is referring to is the one that sits on the passenger-side under the turbo/starter. It's the only ground on the car that connects the block to the chassis IIRC. Look for a black wire mounted to the frame rail on the left side of the engine bay. I don't remember having to connect any other ground coming off of the harness if that's what you're thinking... But I could be totally wrong/forgetful on that.

Also the fact that you can get some sort of reading from the crank sensor is also a really good sign... 250rpm sounds about right when cranking.

Edit: it could also be referring to the chassis to negative terminal on the battery, refer to this thread for a better visualization (it's for a B6 1.8T but it's essentially the same ground layout) https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/528124-DIY-Big-3-Ground-Upgrade

Thanks for the continual help! Haha trying to keep my spirits somewhat high.

I'll have a look to where you mentioned, but yeah the RPM reading is whats throwing me off- it reading accurately then dropping to zero and back. I don't think that should be happening especially after viewing some no start issue b7's with separate problems having the rpm needle stable when starting, while mine almost jumps to zero then back to ~250.

ultima
11-25-2020, 04:42 PM
Right, I "eliminated" the possibility of a bad ground between the block and the chassis/battery by running a jumper cable from the body and battery neg (using the positive and ground ends of the jumper) and hooking those up to the block.

Here is a video of me trying to start it, you can CLEARLY see the RPM gauge dipping when the signal drops to zero, this should NOT happen at least I believe it shouldn't after watching some videos of no start B7's. I'd also like to add that P0321 and P0322 appear (crank sensor range/performance and crank sensor no signal) even though the crank sensor has been replaced twice with BOSCH replacements and completely separate wiring was run to eliminate a wiring issue from the sensor to ECU.


Has anyone had any similar experience to my issue? Its incredibly odd and no one that I've spoken to (multiple professionals) were able to help me remotely to resolve this issue.



https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMmIeFK5ibeEPWVowlS6OFv9sKvRfC6fQxsv7nfrMxyVb ve9bm1siU9yjh7uDLPig/photo/AF1QipNzhebPPvBLzQEdHJYG5k5Eb2YIz9TYrKPVzQks?key=L Wk3OHlvRUF2QVN0MjhvdUpJVTloejA2YklYTUNR

ultima
11-26-2020, 11:18 AM
anyone wanna chime in?

ultima
01-16-2021, 12:13 PM
Figured I'd update this. I took it to DAP Repair here in Charlotte then later figured out the issue myself and paid them for their time and towed it back home.

Something hit the reluctor ring and bent it causing the issues. I will be pulling the motor to inspect and hopefully just end up replacing the ring and some bearings etc while I'm there.

Paul from DAP posted a video about my car, you can see it here:

https://www.tiktok.com/@paulatdap/video/6915447839032167685?lang=en


Hope to update this again with a running car! Thanks everyone for the help.

Theiceman
01-17-2021, 07:08 AM
Silly rabbit tik tok's for kids.....

So you are saying the reluctor ring inside the block is bent ????
And this happened out of the blue ? And everything else is fine. ???
Hmmmmmm

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Cyrik
01-17-2021, 08:49 AM
Silly rabbit tik tok's for kids.....

So you are saying the reluctor ring inside the block is bent ????
And this happened out of the blue ? And everything else is fine. ???
Hmmmmmm

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I must admit I'm a bit skeptical too but I actually trust Paul @ DAP.

That's what it's sounding like though. Reluctor ring got hit by something causing the crank sensor to not read right. Makes total sense and I gotta say that suuuuuuucks. Never seen a failure like this before on ANY engine.

I feel for you on this one OP, word of advice I would figure out exactly what happened with this engine before you go searching for a new one. Maybe by luck you might be able to save it. Worst case you'll have a spare engine with a boat load of spare parts.

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ultima
01-20-2021, 01:13 PM
Silly rabbit tik tok's for kids.....

So you are saying the reluctor ring inside the block is bent ????
And this happened out of the blue ? And everything else is fine. ???
Hmmmmmm

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Somehow something bent it. Everything else appears fine on the surface


I must admit I'm a bit skeptical too but I actually trust Paul @ DAP.

That's what it's sounding like though. Reluctor ring got hit by something causing the crank sensor to not read right. Makes total sense and I gotta say that suuuuuuucks. Never seen a failure like this before on ANY engine.

I feel for you on this one OP, word of advice I would figure out exactly what happened with this engine before you go searching for a new one. Maybe by luck you might be able to save it. Worst case you'll have a spare engine with a boat load of spare parts.

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Yeah its a very weird failure, thats exactly what im going to do. Im going to pull it and inspect on an engine stand before deciding to do a light rebuild or get a replacement.

ultima
07-19-2021, 08:45 PM
Welp, figured I'd update this thread directly because why not?


Rod #4 couldn't take it much longer and bent pretty bad, it sheared off the piston squirter and was bent far enough to both notch the bottom of the block a little bit (well below where the rings come to, no other damage) and the piston was hitting the reluctor wheel each time it came down, causing it to bend and break a few windows.

My assumption is that I was on lower octane fuel and that didn't mix well with all the fuel that came with 2 stepping, this was the night after a ~13 hour road trip where I used to run 87 to save on costs while going light on the car, never again obviously.


After getting an offer from a buddy who owns a shop, he towed my car here from Charlotte to his garage (3 hours each way) and agreed to help me pull and reinstall the motor+tranny while I do all of the engine work.

I decided to go "all out" on the block, and picked up IE Tuscan I-Beam's from a user here on AZ and got CP Carrillo pistons with @ stock bore. Did preventative maintenance (tstat, filter housing, coolant flange, both chains and both belts, motor mounts, others) and assembled it back with mahle main bearings, calico acl rod bearings, new reluctor wheel, new squirter, and some other stuff that I'm probably forgetting to add.


Definitely over built for now as I'm still K03 but I figured that it would be in my best interest to build it now instead of replacing with stock internals as I plan on keeping this car forever and BT'ing it soon-ish.


Here's a few photos of the process, very happy with how it came out for my first ever engine rebuild.



Day after:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BffnBpuGZ5O6tn7Jy_MvqTsT3K6FDDAjFMkAx2Yh0fz6LlLkvh yzQ3PPuC9D3XR0i1pUqLd8oa5LFThIi-rCawAB6AFKAzHBArxmpobODo0fN5p6xID28ZH2SOa7GIdEc-RBqehHZoPGet9Ez9-rCxCjdzv6D4WH4tQumIc6f2H1iyZbcHjpOKapL-fvhh4aMiYb0K2HBlQmnGGDFK2TU4_FsbuzauVn-VP16q_EcUp-PZIjrOq1kzxmOjStEXTJR_PJKyisfKFb0pVLL8CyBIMGblElhY xY-M4SqHTBttKqFpX3jsMcXo4jsmfiTh8Pw2FYbqdg2eb39MEIvPk sfVCnmWSLjVw9gONTamVOnGn22q5PLjGAMbDcLEy1hHLto9G8n c-ZqRcfAM28jY-I-aOspWPrqF8ucz-LGyo6PbfrpuSNJ4INqYz2I_8aoLBquYi7JJSKCqcHCLHVmtjUa Ci6SsMQMgUUrEGuqYCgbgUNRxMjBvicYTSbDfuKBbVrhFeUiMh Av8nDqww2B_wCJeD9ReUn-e-fL_BFZiPXDy5Isq4iK9y97_Oe5F-RnhBRL6aJniL5BPtUprp2CLB6ZHtW_hzbRhhKSTs0-C461nHJRLu1T68HOtvXITjulsT0k3lhiSfcr9IecI-1Va8jFZTlEAMjP3HBEQ7YkgKpoxAKNxfZP4KJVowkEoWdf3btK aKQmodDIgeQ2MMOTV4bH8m5pw=s947-no?authuser=0


Everything else:
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First startup in 10 months

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy_NDz3XL90


All done and happy :)

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