2.0T Engine Mount Sensor

[my1stturbo]

Ordered a set of mounts for my mom's B7. Mechanic who was working on it pointed out the OEM mounts have a sensor attached but the replacement mounts don't have. I can return and get the correct mounts but wondering if there is any difference in the physical mount? If not, will leaving the sensor disconnected throw a code or a light? If it will is there any way to correct it? No issues getting the OEM if needed; the car gets maybe 3k a year in mileage of mostly round town driving.

[texadelphia]

You can buy resistors that plug into the harness and prevent codes from popping up. No need to spend the extra money for OEM mounts. Depending on what you bought, OEM mounts are fluid filled and most aftermarket mounts are made of solid rubber. The consensus seems to be that the OEM liquid filled mounts all eventually fail although they may be slightly better from a NVH standpoint.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-resistor-bypass-b6-b7-a4-s4-0347080000

[Jeevan]

Sensor does throw code for hydraulic mount but it wont lightup anything on the dash. It shows up only during vcds tool scan. Regular scan tools wont detect or show hydraulic mount code. The sole purpose of that sensor is to detect if the mount is cracked and leaked all the hydraulic fluid. I have solid rubber mounts without any sensor. I ziptied the connector wire to the subframe and called it a day. You can buy a resistor to keep the car from throwing code but for me it was just waste of money.


Not to mention, it saves you 5mins and pain during oil filter change.
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[Audibot]

Only the driver's side has a sensor, if I remember right. I may have the one with the sensor in my garage. I'll shoot you a PM if I do.

[texadelphia]

Only the driver's side has a sensor, if I remember right. I may have the one with the sensor in my garage. I'll shoot you a PM if I do.Depends on the year. Mine is an '08 and had a sensor on both mounts.

[vce1232000]

I have the non fluid mounts [wrench]. I noticed 0 vibration difference from my old fluid 1s

[Jeevan]

I have the non fluid mounts [wrench]. I noticed 0 vibration difference from my old fluid 1s

Also, I dont think that sensor on the mount actually works and accurate enough . When i replaced my engine mounts, both were shot and there wasnt a single drop of hydraulic fluid inside. I never had a code for the mount. I replaced them because i saw fluid tracks at the bottom of the mount.


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[texadelphia]

Also, I dont think that sensor on the mount actually works and accurate enough . When i replaced my engine mounts, both were shot and there wasnt a single drop of hydraulic fluid inside. I never had a code for the mount. I replaced them because i saw fluid tracks at the bottom of the mount.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Same.

[my1stturbo]

That's great news. If I can use what was already ordered them I'm fine with that. Especially if it won't light up the dash. I'll consider the resistors but sounds like they aren't 100% necessary.

[Low and Behold]

That's great news. If I can use what was already ordered them I'm fine with that. Especially if it won't light up the dash. I'll consider the resistors but sounds like they aren't 100% necessary.

They’re 0% necessary

[my1stturbo]

Great. Should've mentioned the car is a Tiptronic if it makes a difference.

[Audibot]

Depends on the year. Mine is an '08 and had a sensor on both mounts.

My 07 only had it on the driver's side (tiptronic)

[oVeRdOsE]

interesting, my 2008 6mt doesn't have any sensor

[Audibot]

interesting, my 2008 6mt doesn't have any sensor

I didn't think the manuals had any sensors in them.

[texadelphia]

I didn't think the manuals had any sensors in them.

Yeah, mine is a tip.

[Jayz691]

Also, I dont think that sensor on the mount actually works and accurate enough . When i replaced my engine mounts, both were shot and there wasnt a single drop of hydraulic fluid inside. I never had a code for the mount. I replaced them because i saw fluid tracks at the bottom of the mount.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Cuz its not just a sensor, they are active mounts, with a valve. At idle the valve opens to soften the idle. Over a certain rpm it closes, to stiffen the mount.

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[Jayz691]

They put the active mounts on the tip cars cuz of extra vibration at idle. Theyre not sensors. But not needed, just suposed to help with nvh.

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[texadelphia]

They put the active mounts on the tip cars cuz of extra vibration at idle. Theyre not sensors. But not needed, just suposed to help with nvh.

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Interesting. I was told they weren't active and were just wear sensors. If I had known this I probably would have put OEM mounts back on instead of the 034 mounts. Mine feels like a massage chair at idle.

[morris39]

I have the non fluid mounts [wrench]. I noticed 0 vibration difference from my old fluid 1s

So curious minds etc.... Did you compare the failed fluid mounts to the solid ones or did you do an A:B test for all new mounts? No need to reply.

[Silveravant]

I have 034 mounts on my '07 tip. Only had an active mount on driver's side. Idle with the 034 mounts is very smooth, as vibration free as the OEM mounts.

If you have that much vibration check the alignment of the new mounts and the snub mount.

[texadelphia]

I have 034 mounts on my '07 tip. Only had an active mount on driver's side. Idle with the 034 mounts is very smooth, as vibration free as the OEM mounts.

If you have that much vibration check the alignment of the new mounts and the snub mount.

There's almost difference between the 034 and my OEM mounts as well, but my OEM mounts were failed and collapsed when I bought the car so I can't compare to in-tact OEM mounts. I can only assume they might be better than the 034s.

[Jeevan]

Yes rubber mount do vibrate alot at idle. You can notice vibrations in the steering wheel. But when i can get rubber mounts for 1/4 th of the price, My hands can bare some vibrations


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[texadelphia]

Yes rubber mount do vibrate alot at idle. You can notice vibrations in the steering wheel. But when i can get rubber mounts for 1/4 th of the price, My hands can bare some vibrations


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I can't blame you there, but I'm kind of OCD about NVH issues. A car that vibrates at idle just feels cheap and broken to me.

That said, I don't plan on redoing my engine mounts any time soon.

[oVeRdOsE]

depends on all your mods. I have CTS mounts and CTS snub.

But before that I had a complete turboback exhaust, H&R, performance tires, intake, tune, ra4 clutch, etc. So the car initially feels and sound rough. Adding the mounts didnt change a thing on my side.

My car doesnt feel like a trash 240sx drift missile, but it surely doesnt feel like a Audi Q7. Somewhere between a base yaris and 15 yo zero maintenance BMW 3 series. lol

[Jayz691]

I got replacements(Hudson brand) for $200/pr, so wasn't toooo bad. I wasn't paying $200+/ea for genuine ones. One of mine were def leaking.194945194946

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[Silveravant]

If your snub mount is contacting it's housing when in drive you may get vibration. Try adjusting the snub mount in drive (with someone on the brakes, wheels securely chocked and the parking brake on). As I said before I have no obvious vibrations at all with the 034 mounts. My wife who's very sensitive to vibrations (ha ha) noticed no difference.

[Charles.waite]

Yea as Jayz said, they're active mounts, those aren't sensors. And they're only in Tiptronics, not in manuals. No reason you HAVE to use oem active mounts, most people just use standard aftermarket mounts and barely notice a difference. Just get some error cancelers and call it a day.

[vce1232000]

So curious minds etc.... Did you compare the failed fluid mounts to the solid ones or did you do an A:B test for all new mounts? No need to reply.

My oem fluid mounts was still in good shape. I [wrench] the 034 street density mounts as a [race]upgrade when I went KO4

[texadelphia]

If your snub mount is contacting it's housing when in drive you may get vibration. Try adjusting the snub mount in drive (with someone on the brakes, wheels securely chocked and the parking brake on). As I said before I have no obvious vibrations at all with the 034 mounts. My wife who's very sensitive to vibrations (ha ha) noticed no difference.

I do need to check this. I put in an aftermarket snub mount and checked the alignment after driving it for a few days but I'm sure things may have settled since then. At the time it was pegged at one extreme of the available travel so there wasn't much adjusting I could do.

[Audibot]

I used to get insane vibrations on my B7 in D. Enough to have to put it in N at stops. Wish I had known to do that before.

[texadelphia]

I loosened up my snub mount last night and attempted to adjust it but there's not much space for adjustment between the bushing and the receiver...maybe 1/8 inch. Only thing I can think to do is go back to the factory snub bushing.

[Jayz691]

I loosened up my snub mount last night and attempted to adjust it but there's not much space for adjustment between the bushing and the receiver...maybe 1/8 inch. Only thing I can think to do is go back to the factory snub bushing.Thinking of doing the same. Or maybe trim a little off, for clearance.

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[Jeevan]

I loosened up my snub mount last night and attempted to adjust it but there's not much space for adjustment between the bushing and the receiver...maybe 1/8 inch. Only thing I can think to do is go back to the factory snub bushing.

Perks of getting aftermarket stuff without seeing any advantages. Many people think that spending more of after market stuff results in performance but not in this case. Factory foam mount is the best for daily vibrationless driving. Sole purpose of snub mount is to stay in the middle of the bracket, when we accelerate engine rocks back and the the foam padding absorbs impact and same goes for decelerations.


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[Charles.waite]

Perks of getting aftermarket stuff without seeing any advantages. Many people think that spending more of after market stuff results in performance but not in this case. Factory foam mount is the best for daily vibrationless driving. Sole purpose of snub mount is to stay in the middle of the bracket, when we accelerate engine rocks back and the the foam padding absorbs impact and same goes for decelerations.


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On one hand, Tiptronics have LOT of idle vibrations as they age because of a weird (mis)calibration of the torque converter from the factory, its stall speed isn’t set correctly so drags at idle. My 2006 had that issue, sitting in gear at a light was really annoying. Flipping it into neutral smoothed it out completely.

On the other hand, the reason many of us like aftermarket snubs is so that the engine DOESN’T rock back and forth. You lock the drivetrain down and shifting tightens up very noticeably.

The fact that people’s snub mounts are up against the bottom of the cup is more about the stack height of the engine mounts than it has to do with the snub mount itself. A factory foam mount will just absorb way more vibration in that case.

My b6 had that issue (it was a 6mt) and at idle I got a decent amount of vibration. I’m convinced it was because I threw in cheap b5 2.8 engine mounts ($30/ea!) and they were a tad too short and caused the engine to sit a bit lower. They also were very soft and the engine/drivetrain was not locked down at all.

Point being this isn’t a OEM vs aftermarket parts issue. It’s a correct vs. incorrect parts issue. And the factory fucking up the tiptronic calibration and never really owning up to it. Tons and tons of tiptronic owners on here have excessive idle vibrations in gear that go away in neutral or park. That’s caused by the tranny not the engine or too stiff a mount. However a stiff mount will make it worse, absolutely.

Also nobody spends more on aftermarket engine mounts. OEM mounts are $200/ea, aftermarket mounts are ALL cheaper. Whether it’s 034, Apikol, ECS with a more custom style mount or just a factory-replacement by Uro or Mahle or someone, they’re ALL much cheaper than original mounts, particularly the tiptronic mounts with the solenoid.

[texadelphia]

On one hand, Tiptronics have LOT of idle vibrations as they age because of a weird (mis)calibration of the torque converter from the factory, its stall speed isn’t set correctly so drags at idle. My 2006 had that issue, sitting in gear at a light was really annoying. Flipping it into neutral smoothed it out completely.

On the other hand, the reason many of us like aftermarket snubs is so that the engine DOESN’T rock back and forth. You lock the drivetrain down and shifting tightens up very noticeably.

The fact that people’s snub mounts are up against the bottom of the cup is more about the stack height of the engine mounts than it has to do with the snub mount itself. A factory foam mount will just absorb way more vibration in that case.

My b6 had that issue (it was a 6mt) and at idle I got a decent amount of vibration. I’m convinced it was because I threw in cheap b5 2.8 engine mounts ($30/ea!) and they were a tad too short and caused the engine to sit a bit lower. They also were very soft and the engine/drivetrain was not locked down at all.

Point being this isn’t a OEM vs aftermarket parts issue. It’s a correct vs. incorrect parts issue. And the factory fucking up the tiptronic calibration and never really owning up to it. Tons and tons of tiptronic owners on here have excessive idle vibrations in gear that go away in neutral or park. That’s caused by the tranny not the engine or too stiff a mount. However a stiff mount will make it worse, absolutely.

Also nobody spends more on aftermarket engine mounts. OEM mounts are $200/ea, aftermarket mounts are ALL cheaper. Whether it’s 034, Apikol, ECS with a more custom style mount or just a factory-replacement by Uro or Mahle or someone, they’re ALL much cheaper than original mounts, particularly the tiptronic mounts with the solenoid.

I wasn't aware of the torque converter causing vibration on the tips. I thought it was something that could be eliminated with the right mounts. That's unfortunate. Audi really seemed to miss the boat with the TCs on these cars. That said going back to the foam mount might make sense for me as I'd prefer to eliminate vibration over the mild improvements from the performance snub.

[Charles.waite]

Yea a long time back a few guys had narrowed it down to being a result of the stall speed of the 2.0t torque converter not being calibrated correctly to the 2.0t idle speed. Or something.

One member had his TC replaced with a modified unit (from a well known at the time ZF transmission rebuilder, I want to say 916Trans?) and the recalibrated TC idled super smooth and was built for a BT so it apparently worked great. I believe Levelten.com has upgraded torque converters for our transmissions that may solve the issue.

[Jayz691]

Yea a long time back a few guys had narrowed it down to being a result of the stall speed of the 2.0t torque converter not being calibrated correctly to the 2.0t idle speed. Or something.

One member had his TC replaced with a modified unit (from a well known at the time ZF transmission rebuilder, I want to say 916Trans?) and the recalibrated TC idled super smooth and was built for a BT so it apparently worked great. I believe Levelten.com has upgraded torque converters for our transmissions that may solve the issue.Yeah, level10 offers a few options for these cars. Mine is the same, bad when in gear, smooth in P/N.

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[texadelphia]

Yeah, level10 offers a few options for these cars. Mine is the same, bad when in gear, smooth in P/N.

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Mine is smooth-er in P/N, and a notch smoother beyond that when the a/c is off but still has some vibration to it. Putting the old snub mount back on this weekend to see if it makes a difference.

If I had to pull the engine or transmission for some reason I'd definitely be looking at one of those aftermarket TCs.

[vce1232000]

I have not noticed any difference in vibration when in neutral or in drive @ idle[up]. But I also have the stock stub mount. Ive been lucky as far as the tiptronic. The only issue has been surging when cold in the winter. Its almost non existing in the summer months

[Jeevan]

On one hand, Tiptronics have LOT of idle vibrations as they age because of a weird (mis)calibration of the torque converter from the factory, its stall speed isn’t set correctly so drags at idle. My 2006 had that issue, sitting in gear at a light was really annoying. Flipping it into neutral smoothed it out completely.

On the other hand, the reason many of us like aftermarket snubs is so that the engine DOESN’T rock back and forth. You lock the drivetrain down and shifting tightens up very noticeably.

The fact that people’s snub mounts are up against the bottom of the cup is more about the stack height of the engine mounts than it has to do with the snub mount itself. A factory foam mount will just absorb way more vibration in that case.

My b6 had that issue (it was a 6mt) and at idle I got a decent amount of vibration. I’m convinced it was because I threw in cheap b5 2.8 engine mounts ($30/ea!) and they were a tad too short and caused the engine to sit a bit lower. They also were very soft and the engine/drivetrain was not locked down at all.

Point being this isn’t a OEM vs aftermarket parts issue. It’s a correct vs. incorrect parts issue. And the factory fucking up the tiptronic calibration and never really owning up to it. Tons and tons of tiptronic owners on here have excessive idle vibrations in gear that go away in neutral or park. That’s caused by the tranny not the engine or too stiff a mount. However a stiff mount will make it worse, absolutely.

Also nobody spends more on aftermarket engine mounts. OEM mounts are $200/ea, aftermarket mounts are ALL cheaper. Whether it’s 034, Apikol, ECS with a more custom style mount or just a factory-replacement by Uro or Mahle or someone, they’re ALL much cheaper than original mounts, particularly the tiptronic mounts with the solenoid.

Idle vibrations are related to TC but the ones in drive or reverse are mostly related to rubber engine and poly snub mounts. When I said engine movement, I meant during P-D shifts and other gear shifts in sports mode or hard acceleration. My vibrations are negligible on the cold days but when AC is medium to full blast they are noticable especially in the steering wheel at stop light while in D and braked applied.


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[texadelphia]

Swapped my ECS poly snub mount out for my OEM mount tonight. First impression is that vibrations are less while idling in gear but I'll report back after I get some more time in the car.

[HerNameIsBeast]

Swapped my ECS poly snub mount out for my OEM mount tonight. First impression is that vibrations are less while idling in gear but I'll report back after I get some more time in the car.Any news? Dealing with vibrations as well and wondering which way to go about it. Thanks.

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[texadelphia]

Nothing really. Seems marginally better but not night and day. I think it's just the torque converter. Only other thing I can think to do is go back to new OEM engine mounts but probably won't do that.

[HerNameIsBeast]

Nothing really. Seems marginally better but not night and day. I think it's just the torque converter. Only other thing I can think to do is go back to new OEM engine mounts but probably won't do that.Ugh! I guess if one does everything at once - snub mount, engine mount, trans mount + raise idle rpm, it may go away haha

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[Charles.waite]

The issue is the torque converter (as I’ve stated before) doesn’t really matter what mounts you have. The issue is perfectly highlighted by the fact that in P and N there will be little to no vibrations and in D or R they’re quite bad.

Trans Fluid and filter change will help some but the best solution is to get a new/rebuilt torque converter. That’s labor intensive and expensive of course and only worth doing if you’re really intent on driving your B7 into the ground.

[HerNameIsBeast]

The issue is the torque converter (as I’ve stated before) doesn’t really matter what mounts you have. The issue is perfectly highlighted by the fact that in P and N there will be little to no vibrations and in D or R they’re quite bad.

Trans Fluid and filter change will help some but the best solution is to get a new/rebuilt torque converter. That’s labor intensive and expensive of course and only worth doing if you’re really intent on driving your B7 into the ground.

Yeah makes sense. I may do trans fluid change simply because the car has 172k miles and who knows if previous owner ever cared to do. If anything, I bet he didn't.

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