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audisnapr
03-14-2006, 07:25 PM
anyone have a lead on prefab plumbing for a 6" core FMIC? I picked up a johnyracecar IC not too long ago and was planning on doing my own plumbing, but since then, my "free" time has mysteriously disappeared. Looking to pick up a prefab'd set of plumbing - silicone connector w/ t-bolt clamps would be a bonus.

offroader1006
03-14-2006, 07:31 PM
heh, ditto for me

Poopie
03-14-2006, 07:40 PM
same here. I hear all you need is a couple 90* bends and some straight pipe. You can get hte connector set and hoses off ebay.

EVIL-AUDI
03-14-2006, 07:44 PM
90? Sounds too severe

audisnapr
03-14-2006, 07:47 PM
yeah, you can pick up a complete non-prefab'd (u's 45's and straights) kit off of ebay w/ silicone connectors and t-bolt clamps, but I just don't feel like mess'n with it. You would still have to get at least one small nub welded on at the intake side of the IC.

There are a couple other other ebay sellers that have the complete kit, including the core - I've sent them emails to see if they would sell them separately - no word just yet.

Poopie
03-14-2006, 07:47 PM
well you can get some 45* bends but cutting them.

Poopie
03-14-2006, 07:51 PM
i mean not 45*s but angles not as severe if you need them.

AudiA4_20T
03-14-2006, 08:05 PM
Originally posted by audisnapr
yeah, you can pick up a complete non-prefab'd (u's 45's and straights) kit off of ebay w/ silicone connectors and t-bolt clamps, but I just don't feel like mess'n with it. You would still have to get at least one small nub welded on at the intake side of the IC.

What would the nub be for? And what are the auction #s for some of the piping?

Poopie
03-14-2006, 08:06 PM
The nub is to give the clamps something to grip under boost.

trailboss
03-14-2006, 08:06 PM
mandrel bends (http://store.racing-solutions.org/)
thats where i got my bends from, and i would get 90s, i tink they can make any degree bend you want. Also check toms post, its good for a guesstimante.
fmic pic (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=73513&highlight=motor+demise)

Poopie
03-14-2006, 08:11 PM
i think your turbo would be oriented differently.

audisnapr
03-14-2006, 08:20 PM
Originally posted by Poopie
The nub is to give the clamps something to grip under boost.

actually, by "nub" I wasn't referring to the beads around the end of the pipes (although, with the individual non-prefab'd pieces, that's what you don't get) I was referring to the nub on the IC pipe that goes from the IC to the engine intake - to be honest, I'm not sure what it goes to - someone else will enlighten us.

audisnapr
03-14-2006, 08:28 PM
8043770249 <--- these guys will sell the complete prefab'd plumbing kit, but for $250 + $40shipping - problem was not only the price, but their plumbing is 2.75", I need 2.25" or at most 2.5"

I haven't heard back from: 8046608529 or 8046889176

AudiA4_20T
03-14-2006, 08:34 PM
yea 2.75 is HUUUUGGGGEEEE.... Thanks for letting us know I might end up goign your route.

Poopie
03-14-2006, 08:36 PM
And you must not have any time...I haven't seen you posting in a long ass time along with tomritt.

k0mpresd
03-14-2006, 08:42 PM
mines 2" out of the turbo into 2.5" the rest of the way..hot and cold side

dont forget about a flange for the map sensor

i bet those cheap pre-fab'd ebay kits dont have one

BranCKY3
03-14-2006, 08:46 PM
Originally posted by Poopie
The nub is to give the clamps something to grip under boost.

Honestly I don't think it matters if you use t-bolt clamps. Those things are so damn strong...

trailboss
03-14-2006, 08:46 PM
well if you replace it all the way to the compressor dischrage it is different than stock, you would only need one 90 degree bend and if the piping is 2.5" you need a reducer to 2"

audisnapr
03-15-2006, 04:29 AM
Originally posted by k0mpresd
mines 2" out of the turbo into 2.5" the rest of the way..hot and cold side

dont forget about a flange for the map sensor

i bet those cheap pre-fab'd ebay kits dont have one

that's the "nub" I was referring to - those ebay kits DO have have that flange, that's why I wanted to go that route.

one8t
03-15-2006, 06:22 AM
For hot side piping I used one continuous piece of the 2" ID marine exhaust hose from the turbo outlet to the the FMIC inlet. The piece was about 32" long and easily handled the necessary bends for me to route past the secondary air injection pump, horns and tranny cooler lines. T Bolt clamps on both ends for security. I relocated the DV to the cold side so there's no need for the outlet to the DV.

The hose is from Marine Products International. http://www.marinehose.com/mpi/products_exhaust_252.htm
They don't sell direct, but have a big dealer network as noted on there site. They're local to me, so I just showed up at their doorstep and they helped me out. About $15 a foot.

The same hose in 2.5" ID can be used between the IC and TB, or you would just need a transition at the TB since it's closer to 2.5" OD. Depending on MY, you may have to splice a "T" in the corrugated hose for the boost sensor and for the DV relocation. Bascially a tee with OD to match the hose ID on each end with a 1" OD stub for the DV line and a bung for the boost sensor. No big deal.

The marine hose is low bling but amazingly functional. I'm at about 20,000 miles with no problems. Pic below.

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/574intercooler_003-med.jpg

AvantSpeed
03-15-2006, 07:11 AM
Have you tried calling any of the more common fmic companies like evoms.com, racetec-us.com to see if they will sell you a pipe kit? It never hurts to ask imo.

one8t
03-15-2006, 08:10 AM
Originally posted by AvantSpeed
Have you tried calling any of the more common fmic companies like evoms.com, racetec-us.com to see if they will sell you a pipe kit? It never hurts to ask imo.
That's how I ended up using the marine hose! I called around looking for just hot side piping and those that responded wanted $300-500 for the piping. After all said and done, I like my hose better. Handles engine movement and all with no issues. Also, the inside of the hose is not corrugated, it's smooth as a baby's butt.

soupie69uk
03-15-2006, 12:45 PM
Gosh that hose could be handy!!!

How did you make the DV connect onto it?

Just get a metal T piece?


This has got me thinking!!

What is the best size of fmic? As i may use some of this hose and make a kit.

But i dont wanna cut up my car too much.

Also do you guys just make brackets and mount the fmic onto the radiator ones or summin?

offroader1006
03-15-2006, 03:30 PM
i thought the little 1" nub was for the DV?

and the MAP sensor is on the outlet side of the intercooler

audisnapr
03-15-2006, 05:03 PM
Originally posted by offroader1006
i thought the little 1" nub was for the DV?

and the MAP sensor is on the outlet side of the intercooler

yes sir, you are correct, I was mistaken

I heard back from the ebayer who listed item no. 8046889176

"Piping kit only are 300 shipped. The correct reducers will be provide.
_
Thanks"

Hard to believe these plumbing kits cost almost 2 times as much as the core [:(]

one8t
03-15-2006, 05:40 PM
Originally posted by soupie69uk
Gosh that hose could be handy!!!

How did you make the DV connect onto it?

Just get a metal T piece?


This has got me thinking!!

What is the best size of fmic? As i may use some of this hose and make a kit.

But i dont wanna cut up my car too much.

Also do you guys just make brackets and mount the fmic onto the radiator ones or summin?
I relocated the DV to the cold side so I could use a single piece of hose from the turbo the the FMIC inlet. Basically a convoluted "S" shape that the hose handles with zero flattening. I had a one-of-a-kind pipe for the cold side that already had a bung for the DV and bung for the boost sensor. Another pic below showing brackets too. Just bolted to back of aluminum bumper.

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/574intercooler-med.jpg

soupie69uk
03-15-2006, 05:53 PM
Oh right your lucky having that hard pipe.

Where you get that from?

I forgot i have moved my DV to the cold side to.

I wonder if it would be possible to use hose inplace of this and get a bit which the boost sensor would go into?

Where is the boost sensor on the standard setup? I am guessing between the turbo and the ic and on yours its moved to between the throttle and the ic.

As i could use the T piece that i use at the moment on the standard hose for the DV.

Cheers.

soupie69uk
03-15-2006, 06:12 PM
I was just looking at some intercooler kits and i can only see a little bit for the DV to go onto i cant see any bits for anything else.

Cheers.

offroader1006
03-15-2006, 07:27 PM
the stock map sensor is on top of the SMIC

offroader1006
03-15-2006, 07:30 PM
ive got a guy who does some tig welding, im gonna research what tools ill need to flare the ends to better hold the hose connectors and see what the MAP mounts too, then ill find out if i can get some custom peices made.

i aint makin any promises, as i dont have much free time

but 250+ is rediculous

BranCKY3
03-16-2006, 03:34 PM
Originally posted by one8t
The marine hose is low bling but amazingly functional. I'm at about 20,000 miles with no problems. Pic below.


There's zero problems even in winter weather? If not, this seems like a budget (and ghetto [:p]) FMIC solution for poor kids like me. There's a marine shop close to me that carries it, maybe I will check it out sometime.

My plan is to go to an exhaust shop and get a ~4" piece of metal tube or something with a MAP flange and the DV connection welded on. I can connect that to the TB with a reducer then run the marine hose up to there.

What type of core do you have?

soupie69uk
03-17-2006, 01:55 AM
Where could anyone get a MAP flange though?

one8t
03-17-2006, 04:04 AM
Originally posted by soupie69uk
Where could anyone get a MAP flange though?
42draftdesigns used to sell a flange to mount on a hard pipe but it looks like their site is down. namotorsports.net carried alot of their stuff, you can try them

one8t
03-17-2006, 04:18 AM
Originally posted by BranCKY3
There's zero problems even in winter weather? If not, this seems like a budget (and ghetto [:p]) FMIC solution for poor kids like me. There's a marine shop close to me that carries it, maybe I will check it out sometime.

What type of core do you have?
Core is 2.25" x 10" x 23.5" end tank to end tank. A little narrower would fit better, maybe 19-20", but that's on a Passat. Don't know who made it, I bought it used.

I said low bling, not ghetto! You can get similar hose that goes into aerospace applications that costs 3x more, would that be better! No problems in winter or summer. I've ran it in ambient temps from 98F down to 2F. [:D]

AudiA4_20T
03-17-2006, 05:43 AM
Hey guys check this out... I dont know if this would have all the welds and things but its cheap and polished [up]

Ebay Item # - 8027677107

AudiA4_20T
03-17-2006, 11:41 AM
AudiSnapr... did you ever see the kit I just posted?

soupie69uk
03-17-2006, 12:05 PM
Originally posted by one8t
42draftdesigns used to sell a flange to mount on a hard pipe but it looks like their site is down. namotorsports.net carried alot of their stuff, you can try them

Thanks very much mate!!

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/18tmapsensors.htm

There are the sensors flanges.

Thanks again.

BranCKY3
03-17-2006, 12:28 PM
Originally posted by one8t
Core is 2.25" x 10" x 23.5" end tank to end tank. A little narrower would fit better, maybe 19-20", but that's on a Passat. Don't know who made it, I bought it used.

I said low bling, not ghetto! You can get similar hose that goes into aerospace applications that costs 3x more, would that be better! No problems in winter or summer. I've ran it in ambient temps from 98F down to 2F. [:D]

Yea the hose looks like it would work great. I just need to find a core that will fit nicely behind the bumper and I'll have a FMIC for less than half the price of a premade one.

tip5
03-17-2006, 01:43 PM
http://www.streetgeektuning.com/00_global/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_32&products_id=1478
Intercooler – Bar and Plate
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/18tmapsensors.htm
Map Sensor
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2 Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D8027677107%26 fvi%3D1&item=8027677107
Intercooler piping


Am i missing anything peicing together and comparing here.

AudiA4_20T
03-17-2006, 01:53 PM
Might just be worth it to get the Greddy... By the time your done with all the hidden costs, its gonna cost around the same give or take like $100 but if your getting a FMIC, chances are your doing some other big mods and have the $$$

BranCKY3
03-17-2006, 01:56 PM
Originally posted by tip5
http://www.streetgeektuning.com/00_global/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_32&products_id=1478
Intercooler – Bar and Plate
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/18tmapsensors.htm
Map Sensor
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2 Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D8027677107%26 fvi%3D1&item=8027677107
Intercooler piping


Am i missing anything peicing together and comparing here.

Yea... you're gonna need a lot of silicon couplers and a lot of tbolt clamps. Plus that intercooler core won't fit behind the stock bumper support. And it will probably be a PITA to keep cutting and fitting those pipes.

tip5
03-17-2006, 02:01 PM
What exact dimensions for the intercooler will fit? I thought the couplers and fittings were a given but yeah anything else hardware wise?

BranCKY3
03-17-2006, 02:25 PM
I think that < 2.75" will fit depth wise, no idea about the other dimensions.

aberke
03-17-2006, 02:29 PM
the biggest i would go would be 2.75 thickness, to save yourself some headaches, and about 24 inches lengthwise

one8t
03-17-2006, 04:43 PM
Originally posted by BranCKY3
Yea... you're gonna need a lot of silicon couplers and a lot of tbolt clamps. Plus that intercooler core won't fit behind the stock bumper support. And it will probably be a PITA to keep cutting and fitting those pipes.
Thay's another advantage of the marine hose. On the hot side you just need 2 t-bolt clamps if your FMIC inlet OD is 2". Turbo outlet is close enough to 2" OD to clamp the hose on. No silicon, less chance for leaks.

So if you can get the FMIC with a 2" OD inlet and a 2.5" OD outlet you can eliminate the need for silicon and you'd only need 6 clamps. 2 on the hot side and 4 on the cold side, which includes splicing in an aluminum length for the "T" stub for the DV and the boost sensor flange.

I've thought through this alot because I considered putting kits together, but decided I don't like dealing with people more than I have to in real life.[wrench]

BranCKY3
03-17-2006, 04:47 PM
Thanks a lot for this info... I just need to find a decent core and go from there.

audisnapr
03-17-2006, 06:32 PM
yeah bud - that was the route I had planned on going long before I even bought the core (in fact, that's why I bought a core solo - was planning on picking up that DIY plumbing kit from ebay). that type of kit would work fine, but it would require welding in the DV nub and the sensor flange. Also, those kits have WAY more material than you would need to install your kit. Marked001 and I were gonna split the kit, which would obviously bring our price each way down. With a JRC core at $185, then DIY plumbing kit split at $100/ea, we were looking at a DIY FMIC for right around 3bills. But now that I have less free time and Marked001 sold his ride, I'm looking for an alternative route, preferably a non-DIY.




Originally posted by AudiA4_18T
AudiSnapr... did you ever see the kit I just posted?

audisnapr
03-17-2006, 07:10 PM
here's a more reasonably priced DIY plumbing kit for those of you who are interested - 2.25" with silicone and t-bolts - 8047658794

audisnapr
03-17-2006, 07:23 PM
or there's this option - buy what you need ( http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZperrott88 ) - you can get a 6" long piece the DV that already has the flange welded in too (8048373585)

audisnapr
03-17-2006, 07:45 PM
actually, now that I look at tom's fmic pics again - there is a lot of plumbing - his setup shows at least 5 90* bends and some straight areas. hmmm.... Maybe one setup would require the entire DIY plumbing kit - I guess you could cut some of those U bends into 90* bends.

AudiA4_20T
03-17-2006, 08:26 PM
Yea I wish someone could get a FMIC kit and look at exactly what pipes they give u. Someone has to have one on here?

If someone could just lay down the pipes, we could make a list of the pipes and pipe bends and see how the kits on Ebay compare.

one8t
03-18-2006, 05:50 AM
Originally posted by audisnapr you can get a 6" long piece the DV that already has the flange welded in too (8048373585) [/B]
That "t" piece is great. Auction says it also comes in 2.5" also. Although you coud make do with the 1.25" stub, iIf they could do a 1" OD stub instead of 1.25" it would be perfect. I believe you could weld on the 42draft boost sensor flange on the same pipe, on the opposite side from the "t" and have everything covered.

bitterchild
03-18-2006, 08:17 PM
you guys are ghettoooo.

offroader1006
03-18-2006, 08:25 PM
you got some haterade on your collar there bitter


[:D]

bitterchild
03-18-2006, 08:27 PM
not really, some of this stuff is straight ghetto from an engineer's perspective.

offroader1006
03-18-2006, 08:31 PM
the engineers at muffler king thought it was pretty smart[confused]

onemoremile
03-18-2006, 08:33 PM
i don't see a problem with a smooth bore aerospace hose and some t-bolt clamps. it actually makes more sense than aluminum piping in a lot of ways.
it isn't stressed in any way.
thermal expansion and engine movement won't be a factor.
installation is a piece of cake.
weld porosity isn't an issue.

i saw a whole lot of that type of hose during my last trip to boeing. seeing as how there aren't any break down lanes at 30k feet it must mean that stuff has some merit. fwiw, they were replacing aluminum duct (their jargon for hose) with it. they saw it as a milestone improvement. to say they did a considerable amount of testing is a massive understatement.

you ever see silicone covered in stainless braid or corrugation and then covered again with silicone? cool stuff.

offroader1006
03-18-2006, 08:37 PM
just doesnt seem like that hose would cool as well as Al piping

onemoremile
03-18-2006, 08:46 PM
it wouldn't but it hardly matters. it wouldn't heat up either. you're running 2-3 feet of it before the intercooler which will shed the heat anyway. after that it runs through 2-3 more feet of hose that is insulating the cooled charge air from the high underhood temps.

aluminum piping is hardly an efficient heatsink. it helps, but only marginally.

offroader1006
03-18-2006, 09:01 PM
well i found a direct buy for it at 9.95/ft

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=MPI252-2120&Category_Code=ALL2R7

boostedup
03-18-2006, 09:14 PM
if you guys are talking about this pipe. It looks ghetto, kind of like the corrugated plastic pipe they use for home sewage. It may work "better" than aluminum, but it looks like it's just slapped together because you don't have the piping.

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/574intercooler_003-med.jpg

Save up. Do it right. just 02 cents, no mean to disrespect picture owner.

onemoremile
03-18-2006, 09:26 PM
to the layman a $42 generic all season tire looks like a michelin pilot ps2. we all know differently, don't we?
rubber hose isn't all the same.

it's really funny that folks will use silicone hoses under boost but the real deal gets frowned upon. compared to the high-psi aerospace product a silicon hose might as well be rolled and taped construction paper. some of this stuff is rated over 4000psi with impossibly long service intervals.

offroader1006
03-18-2006, 09:42 PM
good function for low bucks, not good for bling factor.

boostedup
03-18-2006, 09:47 PM
ya, but your never gonna run anything near 4000 psi through it, so it unneccesary and looks shitty. Sorry.

and i understand function over looks, but any aluminum pipe will hold up to any pressure that the FMIC will put through it. so there's no real "function" that it will do over AL.

offroader1006
03-18-2006, 09:48 PM
i dont know about you but i cant bend Al pipe with my hand that smoothly

boostedup
03-18-2006, 09:55 PM
i forgot to post the picture in the above thread, fixed, i mean using that pipe for all of the intercooler piping.

onemoremile
03-18-2006, 10:00 PM
Originally posted by boostedup
ya, but your never gonna run anything near 4000 psi through it, so it unneccesary and looks shitty. Sorry.

and i understand function over looks, but any aluminum pipe will hold up to any pressure that the FMIC will put through it. so there's no real "function" that it will do over AL.


that wasn't the point. from an engineer's perspective the smooth bore rubber hoses are much nicer than fabricated alumium tubing. anything rated for 50-100 psi and 500 degrees would have a high enough safety factor for daily and track use. a lot of race cars use the stuff. i saw an ad for something similar in racecar engineering magazine.

looks are subjective. i'd prefer a black anodized intercooler anyway. i don't need validation through my friends staring at a shiny pipe. that hardly does it for me. besides, you wouldn't see it from more than 3 or 4 feet away anyway. the only giveaway is that blue stripe.

of course the aluminum pipe works. still, i bet i could cut a length of hose quicker than anyone could cut, fit, and weld aluminum. my sawzall is a lot cheaper than a welder too.

offroader1006
03-18-2006, 10:14 PM
exactly,

your mailbox is full onemoremile

BranCKY3
03-18-2006, 10:16 PM
Gotta keep that sleeper look. Plus, all the kits that actually fit right are $800+, while this route will be $200 for a core and $100 worth of hose and clamps.

onemoremile
03-18-2006, 10:18 PM
that marinehose place has t-bolt clamps for that hose too.
http://www.marinehose.com/mpi/products_exhaust_720.htm

looks like a one stop shop.

boostedup
03-18-2006, 10:19 PM
looks a million times better, works just as good.

http://www.vizualflux.com/linkedpics/enginebay10.jpg

i understand it's not as cheap, just stating that it's my opinion that i would'nt cut corners.

onemoremile
03-18-2006, 10:28 PM
it isn't cutting corners in any way.

it is like comparing a quartz timex to a automatic brietling. one is prettier, more impressive, and costs more to make, the other one keeps better time. that isn't a great analogy since i keep drooling over blackbirds but you get the point.

those polished pipes are awful damn purty. i admit that if i had it in my garage i'd end up staring at it entirely too long. such is the way of the car geek.

boostedup
03-18-2006, 10:32 PM
i was just saying that i'd rather have performance over looks, but if there's a way to have both, then i'll obviously take that.

You obviously care about the looks of your car, cause it doesn't look ghettoed out in any way to me. So why start now?

BranCKY3
03-18-2006, 10:34 PM
Yea but what's the point of shiny pipes if it's just going to be behind the stock bumper anyway? You won't be able to see it unless you get at eye level with the grill. Some people like shiny pipes, some people don't or think it's just wasted money.

boostedup
03-18-2006, 11:04 PM
what about this kit, if you compare it to tomritt's pic. looks like it's actually made for us, and not some universal thing.

(400, for piping & core.) which if you do a search you'll see that size core fits under a stock bumper with minimal trimming of the bumper support.
ebay # 8048278490

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/10056586/Images/a4.JPG

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c94/rittentf/DSCN2823.jpg


EDIT:actually now lookin at the two pictures together i take that back..........

onemoremile
03-18-2006, 11:06 PM
i'm actually selling those wheels in my sig and going back to 16" swings and cheap tires. i do love the look but i'm over the expense. i needed new tires awhile back and those wheels came with very nice ones. i'm now selling the wheels to buy cheap 16" tires. life is funny.

i agree with you completely though. i just wanted to point out that there was nothing wrong with the rubber hose. for the record, i can't f*cking stand quartz timex watches either.

bitterchild
03-19-2006, 12:50 AM
I'm so lost. are we done or is there something I should respond to?

offroader1006
03-19-2006, 12:54 AM
well, . . . nope

think its done

bitterchild
03-19-2006, 12:55 AM
so what was the result?

offroader1006
03-19-2006, 12:59 AM
you can get the cheap ebay stuff for a little more than you could have it fab'ed for, or you can spring for a real kit, or you can go buy marine piping and be super non-conformist

bitterchild
03-19-2006, 01:05 AM
That's what I was confused about. The marine piping is for water pumping (hydraulic) and the reinforced aerespace silicone hose is for air (pneumatic)??

one8t
03-19-2006, 06:10 AM
Originally posted by boostedup
if you guys are talking about this pipe. It looks ghetto, kind of like the corrugated plastic pipe they use for home sewage. It may work "better" than aluminum, but it looks like it's just slapped together because you don't have the piping.

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/574intercooler_003-med.jpg

Save up. Do it right. just 02 cents, no mean to disrespect picture owner.
None taken![up]

I imagine if my bumper cover wasn't cracked and I had my black mesh cover installed it might look a little better too. As somebody else posted, I would never begrudge somebody who wants something that looks nicer - polished and all - but we have a few other rubber hoses under the hood, right? No disrespect for anybody's kit, but the the other one a few psots up has 16 clamps if I counted correctly. I wouldn't want to try to find a boost leak on that. 6 clamps is alot better in my book.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 07:24 AM
wow, check you guys out - having a civilized discussion based opinions - and without name calling. Much has changed here on audizine. So in the spirit of audizine '05 - fvck all of you... you are all wrong [:D] kidding of course.

one8t:: I admire your use of alternative materials - I'm all about the custom stuff. And I totally agree with you - if your bumper wasn't beat'n to shiat in that photo and you had the mesh, no one would likely have said a word about it.

Logically you are right, one clamp at the turbo outlet and one clamp at the IC inlet is a far better connection than having 3-4 alum pipes connected together with 6-8 clamps just on the one side.

As far as the bling factor goes, that's one of those "each to their own" type of calls. Both bling and non-bling solutions work just fine. All things being equal, ie: heat-soak, pressure drop, plumbing expansion, etc - one is just different looking from the other.

Me personally, I think this stuff through so much my brain hurts. I look at the overall budget, I look at the availability of products, I consider the amount of fun I will have "doing it myself", the challenge of the project, the amount of help I need from outside professionals (very important), uniqueness of the solution, etc. Having said all that, I think I will look into the marine plumbing more seriously.

On the cold side you could go with "X" amount feet of marine plumbing, introduce one of those prefab'd alum. T pipes with the DV flange already welded in - that will yield 4 t-bolt clamps - one at the turbo compressor outlet, two at the DV flange and one at the IC inlet. On the hot side, you could run the same setup, but instead of the DV flange, you could opt for alum t-pipe the map sensor flange already welded up - again, yielding 4 t-bolt clamps. All of which would require no welding from an outside source and no silicone connectors. Price would be dependent on the amount of marine hose I guess. The other two elements (alum T connectors) are about $20 each.

A setup like this for me - you wouldn't even see the marine hose.

... these are my thoughts.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 07:30 AM
... just a thought - if you guys were so concerned with the bling factor, jut buy two alum 90* pipes off of ebay, one connects at the cold side and the other of the hot side of the IC. From there, you could use the marine hose the rest of the way back. Kind of a hybrid of the two solutions.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 07:48 AM
question: if I were to use one of those alum, prefab'd pipes with the DV flange welded in, could I just pick up one of those map sensor flanges from that other website someone posted and just have it mounted to the opposite side of the DV flange on the same pipe - of course this would go on the cold side of the IC? Would having the DV directly opposite the map senser mess with the map sensor's readings?

<edit>
this solution won't help on the budget much, but will eliminate having the alum t-pipe on the hot side.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 08:29 AM
for pricing purposes, anyone wanna take a guess on how much marine piping we would need for a complete job? 4ft of 2.25" (2.375" the closest the website carries) for the cold side and 4ft of 2.5" for the hot side?

01'A41.8T
03-19-2006, 09:53 AM
Originally posted by audisnapr
Would having the DV directly opposite the map senser mess with the map sensor's readings?


I was thinking about that. For the guys that reloacate their DV's to the cold side does it effect the map sensor to have the DV after it rather than before it?

one8t
03-19-2006, 10:25 AM
Originally posted by 01'A41.8T
I was thinking about that. For the guys that reloacate their DV's to the cold side does it effect the map sensor to have the DV after it rather than before it?
No fault codes here for 30,000 miles. Having the boost sensor mounted in the same pipe section as the DV shouldn't create any issues. The transitions when the DV is open are very short and the boost is always going to drop between shifts anyway.

For the hose lengths and ID's, I used about a 32" piece on the hot side and I'd match the ID to the turbo outlet, if necessary it's easier to make a transition at the FMIC inlet if you can't get a 2" OD inlet on the FMIC. 2" ID fits the K03/K04 series outlets. 4' should cover the cold side. If you can get a 2.5" OD FMIC outlet then you can run 2.5" ID hose which will match up at the TB.

aberke
03-19-2006, 10:30 AM
non drive by wire dont even have the map sensor correct. saves some headache for us

soupie69uk
03-19-2006, 11:09 AM
Yeah will be well easy for nDBW cars.

How will you guys mount the core?

Weld brackets onto it?

See if i wanted to paint a ic what paint should i use? As i wondered if i painted it it would effect its performance.

aberke
03-19-2006, 11:34 AM
i believe you would just powder coat it, i dont think it would effect the performance

01'A41.8T
03-19-2006, 11:53 AM
You would want to get it anodized, or just buy one already done.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 11:58 AM
you can pick up a 6" core from JonhyRaceCar for $185 - they offer $50 powdercoating as well.

GraysonF
03-19-2006, 12:18 PM
ok guys, help me out. im so confused, and on top of the matter, im not too educated on intercoolers and cold sides and hot sides and relocating and maps and all that jazz. is it necessary to relocate your DV to the "cold side" which im guessing, facing the front bumper, is the right side of where the core would be. i think it would be so much easier just to buy marine hose and and 4 t-clamps. i dont understand why welding and other relocating things is necessary. please explain why it is to me, because if for some reason that it isnt necessary, ill have one of these custom setups at my doorstep next week!

aberke
03-19-2006, 12:26 PM
are you sure you can put together an intercooler kit? cause last i remember you werent sure if there were separate boost and vacuum lines

AudiA4_20T
03-19-2006, 12:31 PM
Originally posted by gfanellia4
ok guys, help me out. im so confused, and on top of the matter, im not too educated on intercoolers and cold sides and hot sides and relocating and maps and all that jazz. is it necessary to relocate your DV to the "cold side" which im guessing, facing the front bumper, is the right side of where the core would be. i think it would be so much easier just to buy marine hose and and 4 t-clamps. i dont understand why welding and other relocating things is necessary. please explain why it is to me, because if for some reason that it isnt necessary, ill have one of these custom setups at my doorstep next week!

Thats what people are trying to say... you can buy a core, get some marine hose, your clams, and your all set.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 12:45 PM
Originally posted by gfanellia4
ok guys, help me out. im so confused, and on top of the matter, im not too educated on intercoolers and cold sides and hot sides and relocating and maps and all that jazz. is it necessary to relocate your DV to the "cold side" which im guessing, facing the front bumper, is the right side of where the core would be. i think it would be so much easier just to buy marine hose and and 4 t-clamps. i dont understand why welding and other relocating things is necessary. please explain why it is to me, because if for some reason that it isnt necessary, ill have one of these custom setups at my doorstep next week!

unfortunately, it isn't as simple as we wish it would be. Two things have to happen somewhere in either the cold side (facing the car - left side of the intercooler) or the hot side (ride side of intercooler). You need to locate your DV and if DBW, your map sensor. You obviously can't just weld flanges onto the marine hose since the hose is a rubber type compound. So what we are discussing is moving the DV from the hot side over to the cold side where the map sensor is. This way, you can have one, uncut hose from the turbo compressor outlet straight to the hot side of the IC and only need two t-bolt clamps - one at the turbo, one at the IC. From the cold side outlet on the IC, you'll need to cut the marine hose somewhere in the middle and insert a short piece of alum pipe in order to mount both the DV and the map sensor.

I did some preliminary pricing, just now:

Option 1: Marine hose from the turbo compressor outlet straight to the IC. From IC with marine hose, then t-pipe with DV/map sensor flange, then marine hose to finish it up. Including all t-bolt clamps, map sensor flange, t-pipe and what not, approx. $170 w/shipping.

If you want to add the bling factor...

Option 2: add alum pipe up front at the IC (both hot and cold) in order to hide the marine hose in the engine bay, add a 4 more clamps and two sections of silicone connector, add another $70

one8t
03-19-2006, 12:48 PM
Originally posted by gfanellia4
ok guys, help me out. im so confused, and on top of the matter, im not too educated on intercoolers and cold sides and hot sides and relocating and maps and all that jazz. is it necessary to relocate your DV to the "cold side" which im guessing, facing the front bumper, is the right side of where the core would be. i think it would be so much easier just to buy marine hose and and 4 t-clamps. i dont understand why welding and other relocating things is necessary. please explain why it is to me, because if for some reason that it isnt necessary, ill have one of these custom setups at my doorstep next week!
Besides any performance improvement from relocating the DV after the FMIC, it is just easier bending a piece of the hose into an "s" between the turbo outlet and FMIC inlet without having to deal with the metal "t" piece spliced somewhere in between. Between the FMIC outlet and TB you'll have a fairly long, fairly straight run to splice the "t".

GraysonF
03-19-2006, 01:04 PM
can you explain why you have to splice into the cold side and relocate the dv? it seems so easy to leave it there. why cant i do that!?!?!

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 01:40 PM
Originally posted by gfanellia4
can you explain why you have to splice into the cold side and relocate the dv? it seems so easy to leave it there. why cant i do that!?!?!

you don't have to. it just makes the DIY setup much easier, not to mention a bit less expensive - less clamps, one less t-pipe, one less connection to deal with, etc.

Yuikio
03-19-2006, 01:53 PM
EDIT: Obviously, the "exchange of ideas" is over, so I just wanna say I bookmarked the marine hose pages and I'm pretty happy that future cost-of-BT-kit will be lower than I thought.
[up]

GraysonF
03-19-2006, 01:54 PM
im so confused and i dont understand why i have to do that. why cant i just leave everything where it is, and run the piping? sorry for asking so many questions.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 01:58 PM
here's a quick sketch showing what would work for me...

http://public.visualrealms.com/audi2/fmic/plumbing.jpg

Yuikio
03-19-2006, 02:01 PM
Sorry for noob question, but you relocate the MAF to before the turbo, then? Meaning it doesn't figure into this intake piping game?

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 02:03 PM
Originally posted by Yuikio
Sorry for noob question, but you relocate the MAF to before the turbo, then? Meaning it doesn't figure into this intake piping game?

you aren't touching the MAF when dealing with the front mount. MAF stays where it is, on the intake side of the turbo.

GraysonF
03-19-2006, 02:05 PM
very very good sketch snapr..thanks a bunch. this thread is so long! i know im very noobie, and i have over 250 posts, but im just that dumb. would you mind giving me a basic "summary" of what would need to happen if i were to go this route? relocations, instructions, maps and mafs. that would be awesome. you have been a great help so far, keep it coming! sorry if i hijacked the original thread though.

GraysonF
03-19-2006, 02:09 PM
Originally posted by audisnapr
...This way, you can have one, uncut hose from the turbo compressor outlet straight to the hot side of the IC and only need two t-bolt clamps - one at the turbo, one at the IC. From the cold side outlet on the IC, you'll need to cut the marine hose somewhere in the middle and insert a short piece of alum pipe in order to mount both the DV and the map sensor.


where would we get this piece of alum pipe, and how would we mount the dv and the map sensor to it????

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 02:17 PM
$36 shipped

http://members.shaw.ca/gehca/turbo%20rfl.jpg

you'll have to get the map sensor flange welded on, but I think it could be done without welding

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/images/cnc/flange1.jpg

$18 + s/h

tip5
03-19-2006, 02:18 PM
http://www.marinehose.com/mpi/products_exhaust_252.htm
Correct?
252-2380 2-3/8"

tip5
03-19-2006, 02:20 PM
I cant seem to find a core for a good price that meets stock bumper specs anyone have resources to a site?

onemoremile
03-19-2006, 02:22 PM
the aluminum T pipe is on eBay. the link was towards the front of this thread. mounting the dv and map sensor had been covered at least a half dozen times.

relocating the DV to the cold side means that you'll have to run a hose back to the turbo inlet pipe for that diverted charge air, doesn't it? not a big deal but worth noting.

bitter- that marine hose is for exhaust gasses. temperature shouldn't be an issue and it is rated at 200psi.

do not powdercoat an intercooler core. that is just a bad idea. powdercoating the tanks and hard piping is just fine.
radiator paint is pretty much the only paint you should use on an intercooler core. you have to be sure it is incredibly clean before spraying and do several very light coats to avoid paint boogers. anodize (either type II cosmetic or hard anodize) is the best approach.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 02:24 PM
2-3/8" I.D. @ $9.95/ft (http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=MPI252-2380&Category_Code=MER14A-IB)

johnnyracecar.com (http://www.johnnyracecar.com) - oops, he closed his shop for a bit - not sure on a good core source

tip5
03-19-2006, 02:28 PM
Yeah i was trying to get on there but no luck. How much do you guys think overall time and cost for the setup it sounds like a easy fun project.

tip5
03-19-2006, 02:31 PM
Ive seen the Corrugated Exhaust Hose but theres also a smoother one i found its 2 3/8's and its 2ply but has a smooth outter surface i think it would look alittle cleaner IMO.

tip5
03-19-2006, 02:32 PM
hmm have we covered mounting solutions?

Yuikio
03-19-2006, 02:33 PM
johnnyracecar said "temporarily closing shop..." which is hopefully not a lie.

I think Tom Ritt sourced a Spearco intercooler core from somewheres...

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 02:37 PM
Originally posted by tip5
Ive seen the Corrugated Exhaust Hose but theres also a smoother one i found its 2 3/8's and its 2ply but has a smooth outter surface i think it would look alittle cleaner IMO.

yup, you right... 2ply - marine exhaust @ $8.95/ft (http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=MPI250-2380&Category_Code=ALL2R6)

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/MPI250-2380.jpg

one8t
03-19-2006, 02:40 PM
Originally posted by audisnapr
here's a quick sketch showing what would work for me...

http://public.visualrealms.com/audi2/fmic/plumbing.jpg
What turbo are you running? The turbo outlet on the K03/K04 series is just about 2" OD. Just trying to figure out why 2.375" ID hose.

onemoremile
03-19-2006, 02:41 PM
turbonetics carries the standard Spearco intercoolers and the WAVE cores. they don't list pricing on the site but they do have plenty of sizes listed.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 02:44 PM
Originally posted by one8t
What turbo are you running? The turbo outlet on the K03/K04 series is just about 2" OD. Just trying to figure out why 2.375" ID hose.

the 2-3/8" ID hose should work on the KO3/4 even if you just have to clamp down a bit more. By the time I get my IC setup, I will be running a GT28rs setup - installing in 2 weeks. The compressor outlet on the 28rs is 2.25" OD

tip5
03-19-2006, 02:53 PM
this sounds like a really awesome way of getting started im doing this asap.

tip5
03-19-2006, 02:58 PM
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/verociousmotorsports/Items/12810? yay or nay?

one8t
03-19-2006, 03:06 PM
Originally posted by audisnapr
yup, you right... 2ply - marine exhaust @ $8.95/ft (http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=MPI250-2380&Category_Code=ALL2R6)

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/MPI250-2380.jpg
The hose with the smooth outer jacket has an inferior bend radius and will flatten with some of the bends necessary. The corrugated type has a 6" bend radius in 2" ID size which is amazing for a hose of that size. I'm trying to find the comparable specs.

aberke
03-19-2006, 03:07 PM
too thick, tom ritt fit a 3 inch under his bumper and he said there want much left after he was done. that one is a 3.25"

tip5
03-19-2006, 03:13 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-20X6X2-75-BAR-PLATE-INTERCOOLER-A4-SA-TT-CORRADO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ804 6597711QQrdZ1

Not sure about ebay but the dimensions on this are alittle better.

one8t
03-19-2006, 03:28 PM
Originally posted by audisnapr
the 2-3/8" ID hose should work on the KO3/4 even if you just have to clamp down a bit more. By the time I get my IC setup, I will be running a GT28rs setup - installing in 2 weeks. The compressor outlet on the 28rs is 2.25" OD
There's not much clamping you can do with this besides holding it on. It doesn't really flatten. The sidewall is between 3/16-1/4" which won't collapse much. If your 28rs is a 2.25" outlet, get the 2.25" ID hose. The tighter the fit to start, the best chance you have of getting it clamped correctly the first time.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 03:34 PM
Originally posted by one8t
There's not much clamping you can do with this besides holding it on. It doesn't really flatten. The sidewall is between 1/4-3/8" which won't collapse much. If your 28rs is a 2.25" outlet, get the 2.25" ID hose. The tighter the fit to start, the best chance you have of getting it clamped correctly the first time.

they don't make a 2.25" marine hose from what I see - 2.5 or 2.375

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 03:47 PM
Originally posted by one8t
The hose with the smooth outer jacket has an inferior bend radius and will flatten with some of the bends necessary. The corrugated type has a 6" bend radius in 2" ID size which is amazing for a hose of that size. I'm trying to find the comparable specs.

where are you seeing the bend radius? they do make a softwall version with the smooth outter jacket. It still has 150# capacity. It's ain't going no where.

onemoremile
03-19-2006, 03:53 PM
you can use a short length of hose two shim the gap. to put a 2.5" hose on a 2.25" outlet you need a rubber hose with .125" wall thickness. i would bond them together to prevent slippage or leakage.

onemoremile
03-19-2006, 03:54 PM
the corrugations prevent it from kinking.

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 03:59 PM
Originally posted by onemoremile
the corrugations prevent it from kinking.

true, but non of the bends are that tight of a radius - probably safer than sorry, huh? The smooth outer would just look so much cleaner - most wouldn't even be able to tell the difference from rubber marine exhaust hose from black anodized, aluminum pipe.

AudiA4_20T
03-19-2006, 04:12 PM
Audisnapr when you get this going, let us know... Im pretty excited about it... My intercooler and clutch are comming this summer (Preparations ;-) so this could be a cheap route for me

one8t
03-19-2006, 04:22 PM
Originally posted by audisnapr
they don't make a 2.25" marine hose from what I see - 2.5 or 2.375
You're right, at least in corrugated. 2" ID available.
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=MPI252-2000&Category_Code=ALL2R7

You'll get it to fit I'm sure.
[wrench]

audisnapr
03-19-2006, 05:12 PM
Originally posted by AudiA4_18T
Audisnapr when you get this going, let us know... Im pretty excited about it... My intercooler and clutch are comming this summer (Preparations ;-) so this could be a cheap route for me

I'll keep you guys posted as always. I'm still not totally convinced the marine hose is the way to go. I've looked over the pricing a few times now and am still coming up with $170'ish which is higher than I was originally hoping to pay. I had wanted to do a completer DIY FMIC for around $300. Aesthetics are important to me, but less important than costs. Going the marine hose route still involves attaching the map sensor flange somehow. If that could be done without welding, it would be that much more appealing to me. Maybe the flange could be fixed with two button head allen screws from the inside out and some gasket sealer? The map sensor itself could be attached with some nuts on the screws that hold the flange on.

BranCKY3
03-19-2006, 07:29 PM
What's the point of buying the aluminum pipe with the DV flange welded on? I'm sure you can go to an exhaust shop and get a pipe with a 1" bung welded on for cheaper than that... And if you bring them the MAP flange I'm sure they can do that at the same time.

AudiA4_20T
03-19-2006, 07:32 PM
hmmm this may sound stupid but what about Johnnyracecar? They make real nice cores, so Im sure they must have some experience with piping? Maybe they could offer a cheap solution? Just a thought

Eurasia_1.8T
03-20-2006, 06:28 AM
Forget this ricey shit. Go get piping done at an exhaust shop or sell your car and go buy a Honda. Cheers.

aberke
03-20-2006, 07:39 AM
You're right eurasia. Anything cost effective but still functional is ricey. Maybe we should just bore out a sold block of gold for the piping.

Yuikio
03-20-2006, 07:56 AM
Originally posted by audisnapr
the 2-3/8" ID hose should work on the KO3/4 even if you just have to clamp down a bit more. By the time I get my IC setup, I will be running a GT28rs setup - installing in 2 weeks. The compressor outlet on the 28rs is 2.25" OD

That's the turbo I want to use eventually as well. Are you buying the ATP hardware? What kind of engine management?

Eurasia_1.8T
03-20-2006, 08:42 AM
Originally posted by aberke
You're right eurasia. Anything cost effective but still functional is ricey. Maybe we should just bore out a sold block of gold for the piping.

It was somewhat of a joke, but before you run out buying gold blocks you may want to look into some coilovers. Unless you plan on using bed springs. Lighten up... The pipe idea was good creative thought.

audisnapr
03-20-2006, 09:23 AM
Originally posted by Yuikio
That's the turbo I want to use eventually as well. Are you buying the ATP hardware? What kind of engine management?

I picked the ATP kit used last season - just now getting around to installing it. Possibly using custom programming from PES, but if that falls through, I'll start with the T28 program and tweak from there.

onemoremile
03-20-2006, 10:20 AM
Originally posted by Eurasia_1.8T
It was somewhat of a joke, but before you run out buying gold blocks you may want to look into some coilovers. Unless you plan on using bed springs. Lighten up... The pipe idea was good creative thought.

hmmm... bed springs on the shaggin' wagon. not an entirely bad idea...

audisnapr
03-21-2006, 07:08 AM
ok guys, did some detailed cost estimating - numbers just aren't working out if you wanna add some bling to the marine hose setup. here's what I found:

If you want to add two aluminum pipes on the hot and cold side of the IC for a little extra bling factor, price jumps up quite a bit. I dialed everything in you would need, including silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, etc, here’s the breakdown from ebay sellers who offer shipping discounts. Also listed below other necessary items, but no shipping, nor does this price include any welding costs. The final price below will be less than actual.

First price is item cost, second is shipping

1- 70* bend alum pipe – 20.50 + 7.00
1- 70* bend alum pipe - 20.50 + 1.00
1- Straight alum pipe – 15.00 + 1.00

1- 2.25” silicone coupler w/ two t-bolt clamps – 12.00 + 6.00
1- 2.25” silicone coupler w/ two t-bolt clamps – 12.00 + 2.00
1- 2.25” to 2.5” silicone reducer w/ two t-bolt clamps – 20.00 + 2.00

1- Map sensor flange – 18.00 + s/h
6- 2-3/8” ID corrugated marine hose @ 9.95/ft – 59.70 + s/h
4- 2.75” ID t-bolt clamps – 13.49 + 4.00

---------
totals: 191.19 + 23.00 ----> $214.19

I’d say you’d need to add another $30+ to that final price above for the shipping of the hose and the map sensor flange.

I’m sure there are areas you could shave some $$$ on shipping or even the item prices if you go somewhere else to source your silicone or piping, but I doubt it’ll be much.

Obviously, if you don’t need the bling, you can take out the two 70* bends and the two 2.25” couplers w/ t-bolt clamps, about $80 off the total price. However, you’ll need to add back in to the equations about two more feet of marine hose, so add in $20, a net savings of $60’ish

Bottom line is, if you want the bling, you are gonna have to pay. If you are willing to pay for the bling, you might as well go for the prefab’d alum. plumbing. I was quoted $290-300 shipped for the prefab’d plumbing. You’ll need to add another $18 + s/h for the map sensor flange if you need one (+ welding costs).

Hope this helps some of you.


<edit> shipping on the map sensor flange is $1.95

aberke
03-21-2006, 08:58 AM
i admire you for putting this much thought and effort into this[hail]


It was somewhat of a joke, but before you run out buying gold blocks you may want to look into some coilovers. Unless you plan on using bed springs. Lighten up... The pipe idea was good creative thought.

i was actually checking out the aerobed site, who doesnt want airbag suspension

one8t
03-21-2006, 10:55 AM
The one thing about the marine hose is it works best when installed between fixed points like the turbo outlet and the fmic inlet. It's sort of a rigid material. If you splice in additional pieces, it will be harder to get everything into position without some stress at the connections.

audisnapr
03-30-2006, 06:08 PM
hey all... just wanted to update you on my search for IC plumbing. I did end up buying one of the prefab'd plumbing kits that you find on EBay with the core. As discussed before, these places will sell the plumbing separately. So I went ahead and picked a set up last week. They arrived today, so I thought I would share with you what I found. I had spoke to the sales person in length about the specifics of the plumbing and all seemed good. I was expecting 2" ID plumbing with the necessary couplers and reducers. What I got was 1-3/4" ID plumbing with said silicone. Aluminum pipes seem to be a very good quality, with nice welds, bends and just the right amount of polish (not overly done). Long(er) story short, they aren't gonna work out, they are just too small in diameter, not to mention that the couplers don't match up to my core - like I said, I was expecting larger diameter pipes, in which case, the correct couplers would have worked.

Just for reference, here's a photo of the plumbing I got.

http://images.andale.com/f2/105/104/15071119/1131245781311_AUDI_IC.jpg

BranCKY3
03-30-2006, 06:30 PM
I thought those auctions with the core were for 2.75" piping?

Poopie
03-30-2006, 06:30 PM
Damn that sucks. Are you going to return it?

audisnapr
03-30-2006, 06:54 PM
Originally posted by BranCKY3
I thought those auctions with the core were for 2.75" piping?

nah, the inlet and outlet on the core are 2.75", but the plumbing is far smaller. You can see the reducers in the photo. Those are for the plumbing to the core.

Yeah, gonna return it. Seems like the guy is gonna be cool about it cause he realizes he was wrong by telling me the plumbing was 2" ID