CTS K04

[MALMGRDC]

A little history on the car....

I bought the car in December 2016. I had a balance shaft failure shortly after purchase on the dyno. Bluewater Performance saved my ass and gave me a great deal on a gently used BWT motor and did a few upgrades while they were in there. I have been slowly buying and putting on upgrades as the budget permits. My financial situation changed lately and I now have a larger Audi budget. The K03 needs to be replaced and I have had my eye on the CTS K04 turbo, but was waiting for it to go on sale. I placed the order yesterday afternoon and CTS had it in the mail that evening. I'm guessing it will be here in a couple weeks.

https://www.ctsturbo.com/product/cts-turbo-audi-b7-b8-turbocharger/

-I bought a set of gently used S3/Golf R injectors from i3oricua
-I bought an RS4 PRV from ECS a few months ago
-I will be using United Motorsport K04 software
-The Snow Performance 210 kit will go on after the swap. I'll either be pulling a kit off of another vehicle I put it on, or ordering another kit entirely along with a post TB plate.
-The rest of my relevant mods are in my signature

This is kind of where the build will begin though and nothing is ever set in stone. I am going to get the ball rolling a little more on this project and will update here.

Most recent pictures
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7boqZ5Jp5AEcHpfWTRrUGxHYVR1aEhQbEttWmFKd GxDN25N

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1io7X_e0CMppSUKXcax-cRP_YXUH7ZIFV

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cZ6kDe-znLfKcOdR58pM4OylTkF6YSuT

[EvolutionArmory]

Seal hit 330 WHP and 400 something foot pounds with a K04 and E85. Be prepared to spend lots of money on fueling upgrades unless you want to keep replacing fuel pumps, injectors, etc. BTW, S3 injectors aren’t really gonna flow what you need for E85. And you’ll need a huge composite fuel pump, like a 400+ to get the volume without parts deteriorating and a controller that can keep up with duty and amperage. Think Torqbyte PM4. The fueling upgrades needed to run E85 right(ish) on this motor will cost more than your turbo did. And you’ll still have to worry about it eating your HPFP.

E85 isn’t really worthwhile on this car. Well, the power bump is. The car just isn’t really made to do it very easily.

Water meth is your second best option.

[EvolutionArmory]

And I’m pretty excited to see what kind of power this new CTS K04 can make. The OG Borg Warner version always made more power that everything else so I’m curious if the new version is as good.

Derrek ran a 13 flat at like 107 MPH with the OG version and a GIAC OTS tune and a shitty 3rd gear. He said he felt it was capable of 12’s.

[MALMGRDC]

I do plan on having it dyno'd after the k04 install. I'm interested to see what this turbo can do as well. I forgot about the HPFP seals and such getting corroded and I don't really want to deal with that as far as e85 goes. I'll probably scratch the E85 idea and concentrate on getting my shortblock situation figured out.

On another note, I need to get VCDS. Looks like a lot of people are using ross tech?

[EvolutionArmory]

There’s only one VCDS. And it’s made by Ross Tech.

I’m going to the dyno again next month. I can’t wait to see what the combo of further wastegate tuning, lighter wheels plus running meth on the 100 octane tune will do for me. I’m off to Wally World to grab some -20 washer fluid and Heet because it’s methanol Monday in 2 days 😱

[EvolutionArmory]

Before you install your turbo make sure the wastegate is cranked down to around 8-10 PSI. A lot of these turbos come set light and your wastegate crack pressure should be set to about half of your peak boost for the fastest spool and less wastegate controller duty cycle.

[MALMGRDC]

Sounds good. I will definitely check the waste gate crack pressure if I can make it out to a family member's house where my compressor and tools are before the install. I am more than likely having a reputable shop do the work, the same shop that swapped my motor and installed the UM software. I know they will verify it.

[MALMGRDC]

Turbo will be here Thursday.

[EvolutionArmory]

Woohoo!!!

When you get everything installed be sure to post in the K04 software thread if you do any logging. MAF, timing and boost would be good logs to share.

[MALMGRDC]

Ordered a 3 vin Ross Tech. I'll be able to get some before and after logs, also make sure my fuel pump is up to par. I'll probably order the r8 controller tomorrow to experiment with.

[EvolutionArmory]

If you’re going to log fuel to see if the R8 fuel controller does what the RS4 controller does, log 106 at warmed up idle. Drive it a few miles and check what duty cycle is at idle. If duty cycle is in the 40’s at idle, that’s a good sign.

Then log 231. Log with the A4 controller then the R8. That’s fuel pressure requested and actual. If the R8 controller does what the RS4 controller does you’ll see higher actual fuel pressure. I gained .8 bar with the RS4 controller for example.

[MALMGRDC]

I will check that

[MALMGRDC]

Just a little update. The cost to go from the UM K03 file to the UM "loaded" K04 file (launch control, NLS and the PRV option) is $400 compared to the non-previously tuned by UM cost which is $750. It isn't listed on the website, so I thought I would share.

[MALMGRDC]

Another small update, work will be done by Bluewater Performance. I am excited to have my car back in their hands. I was going to do the work myself, but I have little downtime right now and really want to get this out of the way. Bluewater's pricing is very fair and I know they will do a great job. Down time is about a week and a half. Work that will be getting done...

-Turbo Install
-UM K04 Loaded tune/tuning
-Carbon Clean
-Cam Follower
-RS4 PRV

[MALMGRDC]

My baby snail arrived

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xm_FXMspWG5Ge565DP_Laq3eZ4o7lLAM/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_01LTeLmgI8Kn6nNAnO9wbhHgwY8PN25/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7boqZ5Jp5AEaHZ3M3NpWWdoSENzSElfLW9Oc00tRy1kZEdJ/view?usp=sharing

[Charles.waite]

Looks well put together. Subbed for progress!

[rfelker]

whats the eta for install?

[MALMGRDC]

Should be back in my hands March 6th at the latest.

[MALMGRDC]

I dropped the A4 off at Bluewater today and picked up my Chevy Spark rental car (my car will feel great after a week in this thing). I will keep you guys filled in with updates and pictures. Can't wait to see what my intake valves look like before they get cleaned. I should have the car back Friday if all goes well.

[MALMGRDC]

Mechanical is done, just waiting on them to finish up the tuning. I'm guessing I'll have my car back by Monday-Tuesday.

[EvolutionArmory]

That’s awesome dude. My car won’t be started for another week so at least I can enjoy someone else’s car build while I wait.

[MALMGRDC]

Sucks to hear about that spun bearing! I'm hoping mine holds together for at least another 40,000 miles.

[EvolutionArmory]

Don’t put 100,000 miles on your car in 3 years and you’ll be ok. 🤣

[MALMGRDC]

I've been nervous since my first engine failure, I think I had the car for 3,000 miles when that happened. The BWT has been pretty strong and I take very good care of it. Doesn't skip a beat, even in cold Colorado mornings. It uses about a quart, to a quart and a half of oil between oil changes and I will have compression test results after I get the car back.

[MALMGRDC]

I ended up ordering a new Snow Performance sno210 kit. Summit has them for $449. I already have what I need for a dual nozzle set up, going with a single for now though. I have a bung about 12" before the TB and I ordered a post TB injection plate (Integrated Engineering). Between the big CTS intercooler and the water/meth, I should stay pretty cool this summer. I ordered some boost juice for the time being. Will most likely be ordering a larger quantity of VP M-1 when the time is right and mixing my own.

[MALMGRDC]

Picked the car up this afternoon and HOLY $#!T. HUGE difference. Will post some pics up after I get off of work. My intake valves were BAD.

[Charles.waite]

Giggity!

[MALMGRDC]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1f1pmFR-An8HgZfxq04txPI4dh0Det-3b

^^^Dirty intake valve porn

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e-Xxbxz6Xs7-6hOjdntUDa_JQBs5SY95

^^^Cleaned up

My carbon buildup appears to have had carbon build up as well... Can't say enough about the K04 set up thus far. Didn't get to lay into it much in 4th, but 1-3 are very strong and the drive-ability of the tune seems great. I am actually surprised at hard and how fast this turbo spools and pulls. The two step sounds insane! I haven't had a chance to try out the NLS, but they say it works flawlessly. They also found a coolant leak that I had been chasing down, thermostat o-ring (only 3 years old). I will have more to report in the next coming days (pics, video, datalogs). It literally feels like I have a new car, I am pleased.

[rfelker]

updates? hows it running?

[MALMGRDC]

Oh she is running so good. Having a little issue at WOT in 4th that I am talking to my shop about now, but it's only at a certain spot at WOT. Drive-ability is pretty good. I need to get some logs and some videos for everyone.

[rfelker]

awsome. funny you say have a issue in 4th. I just flashed my car with motoza tune and have a flat spot in 4th. Its like it boost and falls flat at certain rpm. I going to log on my way home from work tonight and see if I can issue the issue.

[aluthman]

Sounds like a flat spot in the timing map unless the boost is actually dropping off.

[boostin20v]

What spark plugs are you running?

[MALMGRDC]

What spark plugs are you running?

BKR8EIX gapped @ .028.

Might have found the issue, tank was a little under half. Filled up today and no issues thus far. Pushed it a little in 4th and 5th getting on the highway and didn't notice any issues. I ended up eating a WRX wagon on the way home from work tonight from a dig at a stoplight so there's that.

I know that my Southbend clutch has seen better days. I'm sure there's more than one hot-spot on the flywheel. If I end up needing another clutch I will gladly toss another one in within a few days.

Going to drive the piss out of it this weekend and see if I still have any issues at all. Going to get some logs too.

My methanol kit and boost juice arrived. Parts from ECS should be here tomorrow.

[MALMGRDC]

ECS Parts arrived. Got a New South Performance offset column mount gauge pod for the injection controller. I am skeptical of the fitment of the pod to the steering column, the construction seems kind of cheesy. If I can get it to fit with out rattling or interfering with the steering wheel and it is snug, I will consider it a win.

[EvolutionArmory]

That’s where my controller was mounted. It worked

165595

[aluthman]

That’s where my controller was mounted. It worked

165595

Nice controller 😎
https://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/2D905CE4-3691-46EA-9068-7B9E0D246E17_zpsra5terbr.jpeg (https://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/2D905CE4-3691-46EA-9068-7B9E0D246E17_zpsra5terbr.jpeg.html)

[rfelker]

Evo wil that gauge fit in a vent mount?

[EvolutionArmory]

Evo wil that gauge fit in a vent mount?

No idea. Don’t see why it wouldn’t fit in any mount that is the right size. The controller isn’t any bigger than what we would consider standard boost gauge size.

[EvolutionArmory]

I can’t wait to get my car back. I gotta play around with nozzle size and injection time. I went with the 375 nozzle but I think I started spraying way too early at 7 psi.

Should I run the 375 nozzle (#5) and start the spray at like 12 psi and be fully spraying at 20 psi or should I swap to the #3 nozzle?

There’s conflicting info from Snow. They say in the instructions that the 3 nozzle should be good for 2-400 HP but also say on their websites nozzle selection chart that a car with 350 CHP running 20 psi should use the #5.

Which makes more sense?

[IronAudi]

Is running meth easier than trying to integrate E85? Assuming you have access to 85? Running out of Meth could cost you a block esp if youre ripping it. If I built my A4, thats my route its doesnt seem like anything else is worth it IMHO

[EvolutionArmory]

Running E85 on a car not meant for it is a real pain. You’ll need a bad ass fuel pump to flow it and not get eaten up by it plus you’ll need injectors that can handle the added flow needed to handle it. And since REALLY good injector options are few and far between, water/meth is the simple option.

If these cars could run E85 more simply, it would be a no brainer. Plus, E85 isn’t available everywhere. For me, there isn’t even an E85 station in my state. The closest one is 60 miles.

[Shane Horning]

I can’t wait to get my car back. I gotta play around with nozzle size and injection time. I went with the 375 nozzle but I think I started spraying way too early at 7 psi.

Should I run the 375 nozzle (#5) and start the spray at like 12 psi and be fully spraying at 20 psi or should I swap to the #3 nozzle?

There’s conflicting info from Snow. They say in the instructions that the 3 nozzle should be good for 2-400 HP but also say on their websites nozzle selection chart that a car with 350 CHP running 20 psi should use the #5.

Which makes more sense?#7 nozzle is a perfect match for 93 on 100 file

Sent from my SM-G935V using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[MALMGRDC]

Is running meth easier than trying to integrate E85? Assuming you have access to 85? Running out of Meth could cost you a block esp if youre ripping it. If I built my A4, thats my route its doesnt seem like anything else is worth it IMHO

Meth/water injection can be much easier to integrate and won't eat your fuel system seals like E85, also it doesn't require a tune. My block is not at risk running a water/meth kit unless I was to tune for it and either have a meth/water injection system failure in the middle of a pull and I don't notice in enough time to get out of the throttle or the tune was awry.

If we had a solid and reliable E85 kit, I would be all over it.

[MALMGRDC]

I can’t wait to get my car back. I gotta play around with nozzle size and injection time. I went with the 375 nozzle but I think I started spraying way too early at 7 psi.

Should I run the 375 nozzle (#5) and start the spray at like 12 psi and be fully spraying at 20 psi or should I swap to the #3 nozzle?

There’s conflicting info from Snow. They say in the instructions that the 3 nozzle should be good for 2-400 HP but also say on their websites nozzle selection chart that a car with 350 CHP running 20 psi should use the #5.

Which makes more sense?

I'm going to be running a #3 for the single injection set up to get started. If she is happy with the #3 I'll use it as my second stage and add a #2 more than likely for my first stage and re-test. It is useful to have a few different nozzle sizes just to see what the car likes.

[MALMGRDC]

#7 nozzle is a perfect match for 93 on 100 file

Sent from my SM-G935V using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

On the A6?

[Shane Horning]

On the A6?No I run 2 #7s on the a6 and 1#7 on the a4. I have done a lot of logs and #7 is about half tenth quicker in the quarter than #3

Sent from my SM-G935V using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[EvolutionArmory]

Snow doesn’t list a 7 nozzle on their chart...

Devils Own says a 2 liter running 22 PSI with a max RPM of 7K says a 4.47 GPH nozzle should be used so maybe a 5 is actually the right one after all. Snow says the same thing on their chart but the 210 instructions says a 3 is good for 2-400 HP. Why would they list 2 completely different nozzles for that power? 🤣

[EvolutionArmory]

I'm going to be running a #3 for the single injection set up to get started. If she is happy with the #3 I'll use it as my second stage and add a #2 more than likely for my first stage and re-test. It is useful to have a few different nozzle sizes just to see what the car likes.

This is what I think I’m going to try this time. Put the 3 nozzle in and start spraying at 12 PSI and full at 20. If my timing correction factor is good I’ll keep it. If not I’ll add a 2 nozzle pre throttle body. Maybe I’ll switch back to a single 5. I don’t know what the right move is at this point 🤣🤣

[i3oricua]

I've used a 2 and 4, one at the intercooler and the other pre-throttle body. I've had that setup for about 5-6 years maybe? Never had a problem with it. Always have had the tank and pump in the trunk with a check valve as well. I've run it tuned and untuned. I've always felt it was safe. I will tell you that small tanks seem to run out of meth faster but I think its just because you have to manage the quantity more closely.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

[EvolutionArmory]

I've used a 2 and 4, one at the intercooler and the other pre-throttle body. I've had that setup for about 5-6 years maybe? Never had a problem with it. Always have had the tank and pump in the trunk with a check valve as well. I've run it tuned and untuned. I've always felt it was safe. I will tell you that small tanks seem to run out of meth faster but I think its just because you have to manage the quantity more closely.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk So both of your nozzles are pre throttle body? Why don’t you run one post to have better octane control and one pre to have better cooling? Running 2 nozzles pre TB seems redundant.

[Shane Horning]

Snow doesn’t list a 7 nozzle on their chart...

Devils Own says a 2 liter running 22 PSI with a max RPM of 7K says a 4.47 GPH nozzle should be used so maybe a 5 is actually the right one after all. Snow says the same thing on their chart but the 210 instructions says a 3 is good for 2-400 HP. Why would they list 2 completely different nozzles for that power? [emoji1787]My bad. I'm running devil's own nozzles.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[i3oricua]

So both of your nozzles are pre throttle body? Why don’t you run one post to have better octane control and one pre to have better cooling? Running 2 nozzles pre TB seems redundant.I misspoke. The second one is post.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

[MALMGRDC]

This is what I think I’m going to try this time. Put the 3 nozzle in and start spraying at 12 PSI and full at 20. If my timing correction factor is good I’ll keep it. If not I’ll add a 2 nozzle pre throttle body. Maybe I’ll switch back to a single 5. I don’t know what the right move is at this point 🤣🤣

That's a great idea Evo.

Clutch is confirmed bad, going downhill pretty quick. Great feature of the UM tune is that I have adjustable boost control. Going to turn it down to 12psi and see how she does. 99% sure that is my only issue right now. Bluewater can't get me in until the 19th and I don't want to pay for another 2 week rental. With my work schedule right now I have 0 time, otherwise I'd be bench pressing a 6spd manual at my Dad's place. I've got two really good indy shops a few miles down the road that I need to talk to. Clutch should be here mid-late next week. Hoping for a Thursday or Friday install. Will know more on Monday.

[Charles.waite]

What did you end up going with?

[MALMGRDC]

What did you end up going with?

New Southbend Stage II Daily w/ flywheel, same as before.

[EvolutionArmory]

Return it and get the ECS RA4. I see a lot of complaints about Southbend stage 2’s starting to slip as soon as 20k.

[canadianA4B7]

you bought a SLIP bend stage 2 clutch!! Those things slip 2 times more then the stage 1! Driven that clutch on k04 you would be better off pulling the dual mass and coating the disc in lube of your choice.

[MALMGRDC]

Bought it second hand, new in box in the classifieds for way less than new price and it will be here Monday. I was happy with my last one, that clutch saw a LOT of slipping (from me) and heat. I'm surprised it lasted 60k miles tbh. If this one goes south lol, I won't buy another one.

[Charles.waite]

I’ve not really heard a ton of bad things about southbend stuff other than their pressure plates being VERY stiff. Clutch masters stuff seems to be total garbage so at least it’s not that. There’s nothing magical about ECS’s or JHM’s kits but the fact they use OEM parts with a custom flywheel means they’re going to be ideal for a daily driver scenario. And since it’s b7 RS4 stuff it’s within factory tolerances at 320ftlbs of torque. Add in the headroom they always build in (usually around 50% more than stock) and I’d estimate 450tq is a reasonable limit for a stage 1 RS4 clutch. Way above what a K04 can put out.

[Der Konig]

I am south bend clutch stage 3+ I think if i remember correctly and have had zero issues over 70k or so. Just a lowly stg2+ on my dd though.

Edit: also well said CW

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[MALMGRDC]

I have not really heard a ton of bad things about Southbend stuff other than their pressure plates being VERY stiff. Clutch masters stuff seems to be total garbage so at least it’s not that. There’s nothing magical about ECS’s or JHM’s kits but the fact they use OEM parts with a custom flywheel means they’re going to be ideal for a daily driver scenario. And since it’s b7 RS4 stuff it’s within factory tolerances at 320ftlbs of torque. Add in the headroom they always build in (usually around 50% more than stock) and I’d estimate 450tq is a reasonable limit for a stage 1 RS4 clutch. Way above what a K04 can put out.

I agree with Der Konig, well put Charles.

A lot goes into making a clutch last including the break-in period and I know I broke mine in correctly, I can't speak for others. If the new SB clutch fails prematurely, let it be a lesson learned and I will be calling out SB for a response. Had I not gotten the price I did on the new SB clutch, I would have gone RA4 stage 2.

[Charles.waite]

There are plenty of cases I know of with Clutchmasters stuff (fx300 in particular) on the b6 side failing after a few thousand miles and that’s after following the prescribed break in. The kicker was in one instance the vendor (Mike Hood/ Ringer Racing coming in here and talking trash to the owner blaming him for not knowing how to drive stick and saying “well yea it’s a daily setup but you can’t drive it in stop and go traffic. This is your fault, not the product”. It was hilarious/stupid. This was after a handful of others chimes in saying “yea I had the same issue, fx300 died after a few thousand miles of normal driving after following break in”.

Personally I wouldn’t trust a CM part of it was given to me for free. I have no major opinion of SB though so hopefully you get a solid lifespan out of this new one.

[MALMGRDC]

I won't have any hard feelings if something happens. I took a gamble for a low price. If it works well and gets me through to next winter, all is well.

[i3oricua]

I haven't had any real issues with my CM. I have the 350 and it grabs well. I daily drive and will beat up on it some more here soon.

Edgar

[MALMGRDC]

Clutch install starts Wednesday, I should have the car back by the end of the week.

[MALMGRDC]

Got the car back, clutch was down to the last 1/3 of the disk life. New clutch has much stronger feel, much like I remember about my new one almost 4 years ago! Can't wait to give it a rip! 450 miles left. Should be down to 250 miles by the end of Saturday. Gonna be a long week.

Starting the meth/water install this weekend as well.

[MALMGRDC]

I have roughly 250 miles on the new clutch. I turned the boost turned down to 12 after the old clutch started slipping really bad. I kept it at 12 with the new clutch installed. I turned the boost up to 15psi at 200 miles. I might turn it up to 17 or 18 psi when I hit 300 miles. Keeping the car under 4k and out of full boost is a task for me, but I need to be patient!

On a side note, my fuel mileage has skyrocketed since all the work was done! I will have it averaged out after the next couple fill-ups.

[MALMGRDC]

Picked up an RS4 LPFP controller with the "B" part number. Logs will be coming soon.

[AudiB720TS]

Picked up an RS4 LPFP controller with the "B" part number. Logs will be coming soon.

Consider just drilling the brass fitting on the HPFP to 5 mm instead. It's what the majority of people in Europe does.

[EvolutionArmory]

The RS4 pump controller is still a great mod even when drilling out your HPFP barb fitting. The stock pump controller limits duty cycle to 60% artificially. The RS4 controller doesn't. More amps, better cooling, no duty cycle cap, etc. It's just better all around. It lets the stock fuel pump run like it does in the RS4, a 400 hp car. As both cars share the same fuel pump.

Mine gave me almost an extra bar of fuel pressure at 5500-redline, lowered duty at idle to 45% and dropped duty at WOT to 80 something VS 90 something. It's just better for stage 3 cars over all.

[MALMGRDC]

The RS4 pump controller is still a great mod even when drilling out your HPFP barb fitting. The stock pump controller limits duty cycle to 60% artificially. The RS4 controller doesn't. More amps, better cooling, no duty cycle cap, etc. It's just better all around. It lets the stock fuel pump run like it does in the RS4, a 400 hp car. As both cars share the same fuel pump.

Mine gave me almost an extra bar of fuel pressure at 5500-redline, lowered duty at idle to 45% and dropped duty at WOT to 80 something VS 90 something. It's just better for stage 3 cars over all.

This^^^

I got it from an owner of a wrecked B7 RS4. Also picked up a really nice RNS-E. I started a separate post regarding the RS4 front sway bar.

[MALMGRDC]

Alright, some bigger updates, finally...

I came across a set of gently used 19x8.5 ET45 VMR 803 wheels in Gunmetal with a nearly new set of mounted and balanced Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 235/35/19 for $1k. I was going to get a set of wheels from Evo, but I couldn't pass this up. I saved about $1000+. Spaced the fronts 5mm and the rear 10mm. Could have gone 10mm front and 15mm rear but I wanted to be a little conservative. I can always order a set of 15mm spacers and change it, but I am satisfied for now.

Links to new pics
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G5doXW5KtA4oxoKvaQ2WcQmwh2a3XcSP

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FxYhqFaid1eVJNuZEe5-YDR_cs4vmmrO

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G-oB52dowd2fL5_f5JE_1aDjq7M1wtxC

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G0aqIuVKTfrszZ-NBjrjk-Vy21Fi5yXw


I also picked up a used RS4 LPFP Controller for a great price yesterday, locally. The donor RS4 had about 75k miles. I bent some sheet metal, installed the new controller and the car ran noticeably better immediately. I took it for about a 25 minute drive and the difference between the RS4 LPFP controller and the stock controller is night and day. I am sure the new wheels and tires helped with the new acceleration feel, being as light as they are. I can definitely feel more torque down low and the car sounds MUCH healthier.

I will be putting the car on the dyno soon. I will also be data logging next weekend and the meth install will hopefully be getting completed next weekend as well.

I have about 410 miles on the new clutch now. I should be able to get some good logs next weekend if this weather holds up.

[MALMGRDC]

I started logging this evening. MAF is showing 215 at 5100 rpm. Had a full log above 7k rpms but it didn't save (getting used to VCDS vs SCT).

Will have more later. The air is decent in Colorado tonight, DA is around 5600.

[MALMGRDC]

Ended up with 236.08 g/s @ 6750 RPM at 5800 ft elevation. In comparison to other logs at 5,000 plus feet of elevation, it seems like I am right where I should be in terms of MAF flow. Verifying what I am feeling on the butt dyno.

Next up, I'll be pulling the bumper and installing the meth kit. I found a good spot to hide the tank and pump. If I can't make room where I want to install it behind the bumper, it's going in the trunk. Weather looks no bueno this weekend, but Colorado, so who knows when I will get a good opportunity.

[Charles.waite]

Ended up with 236.08 g/s @ 6750 RPM at 5800 ft elevation. In comparison to other logs at 5,000 plus feet of elevation, it seems like I am right where I should be in terms of MAF flow. Verifying what I am feeling on the butt dyno.

Next up, I'll be pulling the bumper and installing the meth kit. I found a good spot to hide the tank and pump. If I can't make room where I want to install it behind the bumper, it's going in the trunk. Weather looks no bueno this weekend, but Colorado, so who knows when I will get a good opportunity.

Damn that’s pretty awesome. Napkin math puts that around 295 at the wheels which is pretty damn solid. So you’re liking the UM tune then? How does it drive? I would be curious to see how your fueling is holding up.

[MALMGRDC]

I've had the UM K03 tune (they only have one stage) and the UM K04 tune, both are great.

My shop handles the revisions before sending it out the door. The drivability is perfect, no hiccups. The greatest part is that I can adjust boost, fuel octane and NLS from VCDS and the launch control is adjustable through a series of events with the brake and go fast pedal. They do revise for other mods as well (i.e. tuned for the 135 bar prv). The "fully loaded" K04 UM tune is basically a custom tune built off of a K04 base map.

[MALMGRDC]

Damn that’s pretty awesome. Napkin math puts that around 295 at the wheels which is pretty damn solid. So you’re liking the UM tune then? How does it drive? I would be curious to see how your fueling is holding up.

I have logs if you would like to see them. I held 135 bar on the high side (actually saw 140 bar) and 5.1 bar on the low side until I let off (6760 RPM).

[EvolutionArmory]

If you didn’t already, buy and install the solenoid upgrade. I have a feeling meth siphoning is what ended up killing my motor.

[MALMGRDC]

I had a little issue with that on my Tremor on my first 210 kit. Fortunately for me I caught it before it was a problem and put solenoids on that and another vehicle. I know I've mentioned it to a few people but I won't run this kit without one.

[MALMGRDC]

If you didn’t already, buy and install the solenoid upgrade. I have a feeling meth siphoning is what ended up killing my motor.

Was there any mention of fluid in the manifold or cylinders that wasn't coolant on tear down?

[EvolutionArmory]

The oil didn’t look right when we drained the old motor. When we started up the new motor with the meth kit hooked up we could see a bubble of meth move up the hose from the check valve to the throttle body. Once the bubble hit the throttle body it would cause a misfire we could count with VCDS. When we saw that on the new motor we immediately disconnected the hose, capped off the throttle body plate and drained the oil and replaced the filter. Don’t wanna grenade my new motor 🤣

My old motor most likely grenaded from not running a solenoid with a throttle body plate injection point. If I had chosen to inject in the intercooler pipe I probably would have been fine with just the check valve. Stupid me makes expensive mistakes.


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[MALMGRDC]

On the upside, at least you had a good excuse to upgrade! My original BPG motor died on the dyno and wasn't salvageable. I had enough at the time to get the motor replaced and a few supporting mods taken care of. Wish I had enough at the time to get it built. My next motor build should be fun if I decide to go further than k04+meth on this build. Off to bed for me.

[EvolutionArmory]

That’s how I’m looking at it. A good excuse. The timing of it all was terrible. I just blew a bunch of dough on upgrading a mill, just moved my whole shop, Coronavirus, etc. Terrible timing but it’s done. Just gotta work my ass off to recover [emoji3]


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[MALMGRDC]

That’s how I’m looking at it. A good excuse. The timing of it all was terrible. I just blew a bunch of dough on upgrading a mill, just moved my whole shop, Coronavirus, etc. Terrible timing but it’s done. Just gotta work my ass off to recover [emoji3]


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Do you do custom work on firearms?

[EvolutionArmory]

Do you do custom work on firearms?

Go to evolutionarmory.com and you can see my website. Looking there is much easier if you wanna see what I do. I also do some consulting work for other firearms based businesses.


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[MALMGRDC]

Snow Performance meth/water kit installed with #3 nozzle pre-throttle body. Noticeable SOTP difference and IAT's are way below ambient (as usual with meth). Still on the 91 octane tune, will play with that this week as well. I will get some more logs this week and let you guys know the differences. I will have the car on the dyno within the next 4 weeks also.

[EvolutionArmory]

👍🏻👍🏻

[MALMGRDC]

Blocks 003, 115, 119 on 93 octane tune with Boost Juice and VP Octanium Unleaded. I might get knock logs (Block 20 IIRC) for the 93 tune today and play with the 95 tune if they look good.


If you click on the third tab on the link below (tabs are right above the graph) when the graph loads, it will show you the pull. If you aren't familiar with the Malone/TuneZilla graph viewer you can also click the values above the graph to add or remove them from said graph.

https://log.tunezilla.com/s/2kNamkyj


Also, I raced a mid-2000s WRX last night (Cobb tune, full exhaust and CAI) from a second gear roll. It was even until the end of second gear :) I pulled a fender, shifted to third and progressed to put about 2 cars on him before I shut it down.

[MALMGRDC]

Thanks to [hail] EvolutionArmory, I found a little problem that was holding me back. The line that goes to my wastegate actuator was kinked and he found it in my datalogs. I fixed the problem, the car drives better and I will get updated logs tomorrow!

[EvolutionArmory]

The kinked wastegate N75 hose is a good place to start and I’m glad I could help you find it. I don’t know if that kink is enough to 100% fix your issue because you’re not holding boost for very long. You’re leaving some serious power on the table looking at your logs.

Your K04 has a K03 looking boost profile. It’s tapering way too fast
174363


Your N75 is working way too hard to keep the little boost you’re making
174364

My CTS K04 had the wastegate set to a 8 PSI crack pressure out of the box and we adjusted it to crack at 9 instead. I’ll get some logs done this week and see where mine is at.

[AudiB720TS]

Also, I raced a mid-2000s WRX last night (Cobb tune, full exhaust and CAI) from a second gear roll. It was even until the end of second gear :) I pulled a fender, shifted to third and progressed to put about 2 cars on him before I shut it down.

Just a WRX or a WRX STI?

I had a modified 2003 WRX STI (2.0L, not the US 2.5L).
In memory it was both faster and much better handling than the Audi. I should probably ask one of my old Subaru forum friends for a race soon.

[MALMGRDC]

It was a WRX. A lot of the diehard subie guys around here do not like the sti for some reason.

[MALMGRDC]

Just a WRX or a WRX STI?

I had a modified 2003 WRX STI (2.0L, not the US 2.5L).
In memory it was both faster and much better handling than the Audi. I should probably ask one of my old Subaru forum friends for a race soon.

Ya my car is pretty close to stock, he probably should have won. Not sure what happened there. Probably driver mod.

[MALMGRDC]

I took Evo's advice and tightened my wastegate (finally) about 2.5 turns on the adjustment nut. The difference is quite substantial, I am very eager to get logs and see what my n75 is doing now. There was an instant improvement in drive-ability and power, quite notably in the mid and top end (as anyone might expect). More logs tomorrow hopefully.

[EvolutionArmory]

You really should have put a pressure gauge and air up to it to see what pressure the wastegate starts to move. You don’t really need it to crack any higher than 10 PSI. I’m only concerned that you might tighten it down too much. Both of my K04’s wastegates were set to crack at about 9 PSI and that seemed to be the sweet spot.

Send me a log of 003, 115 and 119 and I’ll look at it.

[MALMGRDC]

We will find out when I get logs bud ;) Not too concerned about it.

[EvolutionArmory]

Just keep an eye on your initial boost spike. If you’re boosting to 28 psi on ramp up you probably adjusted it too much. 22-25 PSI spikes are probably about where you want to be.


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[MALMGRDC]

-WG crack psi verified at 8.9 with Mity-Vac
-Started playing with #4 snow nozzle yesterday
-Went to install my IE throttle body plate and the screw threads do not match what I removed. I will just keep it for when I get an IE manifold and stay single stage on the water/meth for now.
-DEI Reflect-a-gold wrapped my charge pipe and air filter heat shield
-Lava wrapped down pipe

Pics and datalogs soon to follow...

[MALMGRDC]

Just keep an eye on your initial boost spike. If you’re boosting to 28 psi on ramp up you probably adjusted it too much. 22-25 PSI spikes are probably about where you want to be.


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I'm right in the upper end of the ballpark after some adjustment, thank you sir. How is your build coming along? I still haven't logged MAF g/s since all of the adjustments. Would be nice to see 250 or so vs. 236. Butt dyno feels some gain, but we shall see.

[EvolutionArmory]

Log it. I’m just a couple hundred feet above sea level or less being 40 minutes from the ocean so seeing readings in the 280’s like mine isn’t realistic but if your wastegate was set too light you’ll probably pick up some gains on the MAF.

My car is running decent; not great. I feel like I raised compression by going with 10.38:1 pistons so I’m going to bring it down closer to 9.8-10:1 with a thicker head gasket in a couple months.

My car pulls a lot of timing unless I spray meth so I think maybe Audi over inflates their stock compression ratio numbers and a stock BPG motor is closer to 10:1 than their stated 10.5:1

Peter from IE mentioned that to me as a possibility so we’ll see if the timing pull goes away with a thicker gasket.


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[seal66]

Another colorado member with a b7 uh. Welcome to the club! Hope your enjoying that UM k04 tune. I know the UM e85 k04 tune on my b7 is awesome. I need to get the dang thing back up so I can start driving with you folks again

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[MALMGRDC]

Another colorado member with a b7 uh. Welcome to the club! Hope your enjoying that UM k04 tune. I know the UM e85 k04 tune on my b7 is awesome. I need to get the dang thing back up so I can start driving with you folks again

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Nearly 4 years later lol. Thanks!

[MALMGRDC]

Progress...

Replaced my leaky N205 with a new, OE replacement. I also ended up repairing the N205 pigtail wires. Oil was leaking so profusely out of the top of the sensor, it leaked into the black plastic wire looming/insulation and did damage to the wires leaving quite a bit of exposed copper. The car felt noticeably smoother in the upper-mid rpms after this. I am suspecting a smoother ignition curve.

I figured out where my boost pressure was going! [facepalm] Big thanks to EvolutionArmory for putting this on my radar a couple months back. After some logging and ruling out parts trying to trace this issue down, it was the breather tube. If you are running a catch can style set up OR the updated PCV 06F129101P , you MUST run the updated 06D103215A Breather Tube (only applies to stock valve cover).

I made progress on finding an easily sourced and cheaper than Boost Juice source of methanol. I tested it today and it worked great. It can be ordered online, 3 gallons (100% methanol) for $42 w/ free shipping (I still need to find someone local that deals M1 or equivalent). Only downside that I have found is that the specific gravity on the SDS varies 66%-99.9% purity, after converting SG to percentage. It is 100% methanol according to the SDS, so I suspect that they are accounting for possible water absorption. It is anhydrous grade methanol. I need to order a hydrometer to find out a more precise reading. I had 0 spark retard on a 60/40 meth/water ratio (ratio measured quantitatively 6 cups to 4 cups) on my 93 octane setting today. I'm going to play with the 95 octane setting tomorrow, it did great with boost juice and I expect it will do the same with the new stuff.

Still planning on getting this car on the dyno. I just want my $150 to count! These were the last of the little issues, though. The next couple of weeks will tell.

I've started piecing together an engine build wish list, my next motor is going to cost more than what I bought the car for. New DD coming soon so I can start having some fun with the B7.

[MALMGRDC]

This build is going to come to a stop for the most part. Picking up a stage 3 B5 S4 on Wednesday. A4 will continue daily duty and won't go further than the K04. It's been fun!

[Charles.waite]

Coward!!!

But seriously that’s a solid pickup. Once you get past the old engine maintenance crap, 2.7ts are pretty phenomenal engines.

[MALMGRDC]

The engine was just professionally resealed along with new water pump and timing belts 1,000 miles ago. She should be good to go with 97,000 miles. Borgwarner K04's have less than 5,000 miles. Port injection makes me happy.

[EvolutionArmory]

There’s a S4 Avant down the street and I can’t lie, I’ve been thinking...

[Charles.waite]

Port injection is so goddamn simple to make power on it’s dumb. That’ll be a way more rewarding car to build I’m sure.

B5s have a really classic look but their interiors just don’t do it for me. They’re definitely old feeling compared to a b6/7. But can’t argue with a 2.7t drivetrain that’s already got k04s. Should be lots of fun.

[MALMGRDC]

There’s a S4 Avant down the street and I can’t lie, I’ve been thinking...

Every build scenario I could put together led me to this decision. I just paid what it would have cost to build the motor and go BT or 2.7t swap the B7, for a NICE B5 S4. Now I have a solid daily driver and a car that I can mod with resale value.

[EvolutionArmory]

And you can build the B5 to be whatever you want it to be and your only HP limit is your wallet. [emoji6]


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[MALMGRDC]

And you can build the B5 to be whatever you want it to be and your only HP limit is your wallet. [emoji6]


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Yessir!

I still love my B7. It is one of the most fun and reliable, "speedy" daily drivers that I have owned and I intend on keeping it that way.

[Charles.waite]

Now you can have a fun car, and a stupid fun car. Haha.

[MALMGRDC]

Now you can have a fun car, and a stupid fun car. Haha.

That's how I've kind of been explaining it to co-workers lol. I've scared a few of them in the B5 so far. They're pretty impressed with the B7 as well!

[Der Konig]

I own a few variations and can tell you the b5 s4 fun car and b7 a4 dd is an awesome combo. Mpg on one and mph on the other!

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[MALMGRDC]

The A4 is still killing it for DD duty. I re-adjusted the wastegate, down to 7.75 PSI from 8.9 PSI, drove a little last night. I think I found the sweet spot I was looking for.

[EvolutionArmory]

The A4 is still killing it for DD duty. I re-adjusted the wastegate, down to 7.75 PSI from 8.9 PSI, drove a little last night. I think I found the sweet spot I was looking for.

I need to crank mine down after the intercooler and N75 swap. I’m getting a 30 PSI spike at 3K. 🤣 Mine is set to crack at 9 now. 8 will be better I think.

[MALMGRDC]

That's the issue I was having lol. I would try out 7.5-8

[EvolutionArmory]

9 worked good with my old intercooler and N75. The car is an animal right now. Those 2 changes really changed it up. Less pressure drop from the new intercooler and the old N75 was a few ohms off from the new one. Gotta crank it down to adjust to those changes.

[vvenom800tt]

9 worked good with my old intercooler and N75. The car is an animal right now. Those 2 changes really changed it up. Less pressure drop from the new intercooler and the old N75 was a few ohms off from the new one. Gotta crank it down to adjust to those changes.Its crazy how sensitive the N75 is.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Its crazy how sensitive the N75 is.

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Yes. I decided to leave the wastegate set to 9 and I’m going to put in the IE MBC in parallel with the N75. I’m going to use the MBC to limit boost to 22 psi instead of constantly messing with my wastegate.

[MALMGRDC]

Yes. I decided to leave the wastegate set to 9 and I’m going to put in the IE MBC in parallel with the N75. I’m going to use the MBC to limit boost to 22 psi instead of constantly messing with my wastegate.

That's a great idea.

[EvolutionArmory]

Ordered it yesterday. Hopefully I can get it in next week. I’ll let you know how it works out.


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[EvolutionArmory]

Did you ever see if your wastegate adjustment added to your peak MAF? Send me logs.


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[seal66]

So why do the mbc for boost control? I haven't had any issues with the UM on boost control. I can set my boost max and it never over boost.

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[EvolutionArmory]

So why do the mbc for boost control? I haven't had any issues with the UM on boost control. I can set my boost max and it never over boost.

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Because I run a pretty high wastegate crack pressure for my N75 map. Rather than just trying to dial the wastegate in to match it, I just use the MBC in parallel to limit boost. With the high crack pressure the car spools really fast and has less issues with back pressure trying to open the wastegate at high rpms.

It really is the best of both worlds. I have full N75 control below the point the MBC caps it to. The MBC takes care of everything above 22 psi.

Your tune has adjustments that can be made. Mine only has one set map for boost so instead of tweaking my wastegate to match what it wants, for 100 bucks I can control peak boost with the turn of a dial. [emoji6]


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[canadianA4B7]

You can cut the factory wastegate off the mount and drill 2 holes into to mount the turbo smart waste gate. Would you like me to send you one and you can try a 14 psi gate by itself? That way you can just control your wastegate with the controller alone.

[EvolutionArmory]

No thank you. What I’m going to do will probably work the way I think it will.

With a 9 PSI wastegate setting I should be able to make and hold 22 PSI quite well before it starts to taper with just the MBC.


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[aluthman]

I have a 19psi spring (combo of springs actually) in my WG actuator because big ass flapper[>_<]

[seal66]

Because I run a pretty high wastegate crack pressure for my N75 map. Rather than just trying to dial the wastegate in to match it, I just use the MBC in parallel to limit boost. With the high crack pressure the car spools really fast and has less issues with back pressure trying to open the wastegate at high rpms.

It really is the best of both worlds. I have full N75 control below the point the MBC caps it to. The MBC takes care of everything above 22 psi.

Your tune has adjustments that can be made. Mine only has one set map for boost so instead of tweaking my wastegate to match what it wants, for 100 bucks I can control peak boost with the turn of a dial. [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Okay. I was curious why peeps where doing MBC. Make sense now. I enjoy UM can I can adjust my max boost and the car does what it needs to for boost control. I so far have not had any overboost issues thankfully. I always wanted to dig deeper into the eurodyne stuff to self tune but never had the time to really tinker with it

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[Charles.waite]

Okay. I was curious why peeps where doing MBC. Make sense now. I enjoy UM can I can adjust my max boost and the car does what it needs to for boost control. I so far have not had any overboost issues thankfully. I always wanted to dig deeper into the eurodyne stuff to self tune but never had the time to really tinker with it

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These are some of the reasons I’m going with UM soon when I finally get my tune. The adjustability isn’t really important on a stock turbo but with a k04 it’ll be nice to be able to dial it in with a simple coding change in VCDS.

[EvolutionArmory]

Okay. I was curious why peeps where doing MBC. Make sense now. I enjoy UM can I can adjust my max boost and the car does what it needs to for boost control. I so far have not had any overboost issues thankfully. I always wanted to dig deeper into the eurodyne stuff to self tune but never had the time to really tinker with it

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I use it just to control overboost. I didn’t have this overboost issue with my JHM K04r because of the wheel it uses. I think that’s where these non K04-064 wheels really shine. Anti surge.

With the CTS turbo I was seeing 28-30 PSI spikes so instead of asking GIAC to write me a tune that adds more duty cycle to the N75 or backing my wastegate down a couple turns, I just took it upon myself to tame the spike with the MBC. It worked out great because now I still spool really fast (20 psi at 2600), still hit requested boost at redline and have really good MAF readings in the top end. 280-290 all through 6-7K.

The overboost was causing my timing map to be all over the place too. So the MBC solved 2 problems at the same time. Now that I’m capped at 22 PSI, the timing ramps up fairly smooth.


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[seal66]

I use it just to control overboost. I didn’t have this overboost issue with my JHM K04r because of the wheel it uses. I think that’s where these non K04-064 wheels really shine. Anti surge.

With the CTS turbo I was seeing 28-30 PSI spikes so instead of asking GIAC to write me a tune that adds more duty cycle to the N75 or backing my wastegate down a couple turns, I just took it upon myself to tame the spike with the MBC. It worked out great because now I still spool really fast (20 psi at 2600), still hit requested boost at redline and have really good MAF readings in the top end. 280-290 all through 6-7K.

The overboost was causing my timing map to be all over the place too. So the MBC solved 2 problems at the same time. Now that I’m capped at 22 PSI, the timing ramps up fairly smooth.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Okay that makes sense. It is crazy how everyone has had different things happen with these kits. I run the first gen cts k04 kit and I get spikes, no waste gate adjustments, and my n75 cycles were low

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[seal66]

These are some of the reasons I’m going with UM soon when I finally get my tune. The adjustability isn’t really important on a stock turbo but with a k04 it’ll be nice to be able to dial it in with a simple coding change in VCDS.Jeff has a solid tuning company man. I really have enjoyed his tune on my car.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Very true. Just in MAF readings alone people are reporting anywhere from 240GS to 300GS from various K04 turbos and tunes. That’s a pretty big swing. Elevation probably has something to do with it but you wouldn’t think the swing from lowest to highest would be 60GS.

Just going from the MAF thread most people aren’t in the 280-290 range like I am.

[MALMGRDC]

I am probably going to switch to Motoza on the B7 and see what's up. They have been great on my B5. My B7 left Bluewater "tuned" with a pinched wastegate line and 30 psi boost spikes. I have sorted out some more little stuff on the car and am interested to see what Motoza can do.

[EvolutionArmory]

I am probably going to switch to Motoza on the B7 and see what's up. They have been great on my B5. My B7 left Bluewater "tuned" with a pinched wastegate line and 30 psi boost spikes. I have sorted out some more little stuff on the car and am interested to see what Motoza can do.

GIAC my dude. It’s a solid tune.

And if you still get 30 PSI spikes just put in a MBC like I did.


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[JLAllroad]

GIAC my dude. It’s a solid tune.

And if you still get 30 PSI spikes just put in a MBC like I did.


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EA....you need to qualify that you accept power vs drivability and are using two physical tweaks that counter act each other to allow your ECU to give you YOUR desired results.


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[EvolutionArmory]

EA....you need to qualify that you accept power vs drivability and are using two physical tweaks that counter act each other to allow your ECU to give you YOUR desired results.


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I don’t need to qualify anything.

GIAC makes tune.

Tune kicks ass.

I’m not the only one that had success with it. Derek’s car ran like mine does before he started his VRT swap.

I’m not doing anything that A LOT of other people don’t already do. I’m not the first guy to run a MBC in parallel. 🤷 It’s pretty common on VW Vortex with the GTI/Golf R crowd.

Edit: It goes back to the B5 crowd if that tells you anything.

I was also thinking about buying an old B5 N75 and repinning the connector. There’s actually a screw you can turn to adjust bleed flow. Decided on just doing the MBC instead.



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[JLAllroad]

I don’t need to qualify anything.

GIAC makes tune.

Tune kicks ass.

I’m not the only one that had success with it. Derek’s car ran like mine does before he started his VRT swap.

I’m not doing anything that A LOT of other people don’t already do. I’m not the first guy to run a MBC in parallel. 🤷 It’s pretty common on VW Vortex with the GTI/Golf R crowd.

Edit: It goes back to the B5 crowd if that tells you anything.

I was also thinking about buying an old B5 N75 and repinning the connector. There’s actually a screw you can turn to adjust bleed flow. Decided on just doing the MBC instead.



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Did I say something that was incorrect?

You have a lot to offer, you are happy with your compromises, those compromises are not always known or desired by those that you give advice.



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[EvolutionArmory]

What compromises have I made? I added a simple and inexpensive device that eliminates the potential for overboost instead of asking GIAC to add duty cycle or keep having to adjust my wastegate. That’s it. It’s no secret and people have been doing it for literally decades.



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[JLAllroad]

What compromises have I made? I added a simple and inexpensive device that eliminates the potential for overboost instead of asking GIAC to add duty cycle or keep having to adjust my wastegate. That’s it. It’s no secret and people have been doing it for literally decades.



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You have said multiple times that you choose WOT power over drivability.

You have said multiple times that you added a MBC because you didn’t want to have to adjust the wastegate again.

I guess you could go back and delete all of those posts if you feel that you spoke incorrectly.


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[EvolutionArmory]

Why would I delete something I just said again? 🤣

Dude, the tune kicked ass when I was running the JHM turbo too and didn’t have the overboost issue so I don’t even know what your point is.

I’ve got logs of that for days too if you wanna see them.

All of these guys are seeing 240-250 MAF readings. I hit 287-290 all the time. 🤣 That’s a huge difference in performance.

215064

From the info that people have shared, it seems no other tune comes close. The performance gap will be even bigger when I’m running 22 psi instead of just 20. [emoji6]


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[JLAllroad]

Why would I delete something I just said again? 🤣

Dude, the tune kicked ass when I was running the JHM turbo too and didn’t have the overboost issue so I don’t even know what your point is.

I’ve got logs of that for days too if you wanna see them.

All of these guys are seeing 240-250 MAF readings. I hit 287-290 all the time. 🤣 That’s a huge difference in performance.

215064

From the info that people have shared, it seems no other tune comes close. The performance gap will be even bigger when I’m running 22 psi instead of just 20. [emoji6]


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That’s a lot of words.

Again, simply, you have a desired result and work arounds and compromises that you are ok with that might be unknown to those that head your advice.

Nothing wrong adding a little transparency to your advice.




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[EvolutionArmory]

What transparency needs to be shown? It’s an off the shelf tune 🤣🤣

I’m trying to be understanding to what you’re saying but it’s REAL hard.

My tune is no different than what they sell to everyone else.....

My car still has full N75 control dude. The MBC just limits PEAK boost.

215066

215065


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[i3oricua]

I would say the only factor to consider is AFR when you're using the MBC but most tunes run rich on purpose as a safety valve. I would also imagine that the tune is requesting a certain AFR anyways and that should remain constant even with the MBC.

Where most would get in trouble is running an MBC with a larger turbo and a non built engine. I've seen and had friends blown their engines way back on their hondas and eclipses because they got too greedy with the boost.

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[JLAllroad]

My car still has full N75 control dude. The MBC just limits PEAK boost.

215066

215065


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This statement is almost comical, “full N75 control” except below crack pressure and above the MBC setting, again transparency in the interest of full disclosure.


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[EvolutionArmory]

I would say the only factor to consider is AFR when you're using the MBC but most tunes run rich on purpose as a safety valve. I would also imagine that the tune is requesting a certain AFR anyways and that should remain constant even with the MBC.

Where most would get in trouble is running an MBC with a larger turbo and a non built engine. I've seen and had friends blown their engines way back on their hondas and eclipses because they got too greedy with the boost.

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But that’s the best part. I’m using the MBC only to limit boost and keep timing pull in line. I’m using it for the opposite reason. I’m using it to make less boost 🤣


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[EvolutionArmory]

This statement is almost comical, “full N75 control” except below crack pressure and above the MBC setting, again transparency in the interest of full disclosure.


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Maybe you should understand how my set up works before you make further comments. Look at my N75 graph. The MBC is only helping with ramp up by bleeding overboost above 22 PSI. Once my car is at 50% duty cycle, which is real early on that graph, I have full N75 control and the MBC is literally doing nothing. It’s closed for 95% of that pull. 🤣 It’s only open for 2-300 RPM’s total.

Someone could run that tune at a lower crack pressure than I do and it would still out perform every other tune that people have been kind enough to provide data for.

When I was running the JHM turbo with much less overboost at ramp up, I was still in the 280’s for MAF. Just not for most of 6-7K like I am now.

The point is, the GIAC tune seems to out perform everything else. It’s an OTS tune dude. There’s no magic to my set up. Shit, I think Derrek ran a 105 MPH trap speed with his car using this tune and that was years ago.

I still have part throttle driveability too since the MBC doesn’t even open til 22 psi. On my commute to work, the MBC isn’t even doing anything. It’s literally not doing a thing.

So I don’t understand what you’re even talking about and I’m not sure you do either when it comes to how my set up even works.


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[Charles.waite]

To be fair, if the tune was setup more flexibly you wouldn’t need to throw a bandaid into the system to keep boost inline.

Not making a value judgement on what you’ve done, I know you’re exceedingly happy with the setup and you’re making possibly the most power of anyone here on AZ on a k04. Simply stating that requiring manual overrides is indicative of miscalibration on the ecu side. Or maybe the tune is so bleeding edge that the setup needs to be tweaked to perfection in order to have everything operate correctly? Either way it’s not necessarily the plug and play tune some might want. Not everyone wants to fiddle around with things ad naseum. I know i don’t, for instance. But plenty of others are perfectly fine with it, and that’s totally cool.

[EvolutionArmory]

To be fair, if the tune was setup more flexibly you wouldn’t need to throw a bandaid into the system to keep boost inline.

Not making a value judgement on what you’ve done, I know you’re exceedingly happy with the setup and you’re making possibly the most power of anyone here on AZ on a k04. Simply stating that requiring manual overrides is indicative of miscalibration on the ecu side. Or maybe the tune is so bleeding edge that the setup needs to be tweaked to perfection in order to have everything operate correctly? Either way it’s not necessarily the plug and play tune some might want. Not everyone wants to fiddle around with things ad naseum. I know i don’t, for instance. But plenty of others are perfectly fine with it, and that’s totally cool.

The tune was written on a BW spec turbo. My turbo has a much lighter wheel. Hence the overboost. I also run my wastegate set 1 psi higher than it came from CTS.

If someone runs the GIAC tune on a lower crack pressure, it will still be better than all the other tunes. I still made 270 GS with the wastegate set to 8 PSI instead of the 290 I see now. Still more airflow than any non GIAC tune. Only Derrek made similar airflow with his GIAC tune. He made 295 peak at 7K. His car Dynoed at like 310 WHP. His car was even faster than mine 🤣

Seal might make similar airflow but he’s also on the next level than all of us. He made 320 WHP but that was on E85. My tune has 300 WHP in it. I just need to prove it.

I don’t know how a simple suggestion to get the proven best off the shelf tune for this car became such a long discussion.

Go back and look at my thread. Even with my wastegate set to 6 PSI it was still making more airflow than most people’s tunes.


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[EvolutionArmory]

Charles, GIAC has written 3 separate tunes for the B8 platform and you flash the one that is best suited for the crack pressure you use.

Me needing a MBC to regulate overboost is more due to there being several versions of this turbo and specs being all over the map than it is due to the tune not being able to adapt. The fact that I had great results with a 6, 8 and 9 crack pressure and on 2 different turbos and 3 different intercooler cores says a lot about how much this tune can adapt.

GIAC saw this on the B7 platform and realized that there were more options needed and wrote 3 tunes for the B8 platform as a response to the need for it.

If I had asked GIAC to write me a file that raised duty cycle during ramp up, I wouldn’t need the MBC but a 100 dollar valve I can just adjust in 20 seconds works just as well [emoji6]


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[canadianA4B7]

so what would happen if you used a physically larger wastegate (10 or 14 psi) and factory settings for preload?

[EvolutionArmory]

so what would happen if you used a physically larger wastegate (10 or 14 psi) and factory settings for preload?

It might overboost more. I don’t know for sure. 8-9 PSI seems to be a pretty good spot for pressure with this turbo. A little less than half of requested boost. Quick spool, it keeps duty cycle low and helps the wastegate fight back pressure at high RPM.

I would like to try a Forge wastegate with a 8-10 PSI crack pressure just to see if it will hold boost better but not enough to pull my turbo out to do it.




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[seal66]

These are some of the reasons I’m going with UM soon when I finally get my tune. The adjustability isn’t really important on a stock turbo but with a k04 it’ll be nice to be able to dial it in with a simple coding change in VCDS.Your not going to be wrong doing it either. Being able to change fuel without worrying about anything is nice

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[canadianA4B7]

It might overboost more. I don’t know for sure. 8-9 PSI seems to be a pretty good spot for pressure with this turbo. A little less than half of requested boost. Quick spool, it keeps duty cycle low and helps the wastegate fight back pressure at high RPM.

I would like to try a Forge wastegate with a 8-10 PSI crack pressure just to see if it will hold boost better but not enough to pull my turbo out to do it.

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I’m pretty much guaranteeing better boost with the 11 psi turbosmart. The wastegate over pre load is causing your exhaust gasses to be tumbling inside the test pipe. The turbine itself is accepting more then normal boost as your gate flapper sits in the way of the gasses trying to bypass the turbine. Hence over boost now don’t you just want a properly controlled instantaneous boost curve? Have you ever ran a turbo with wastegate set to max boost?? This is the best way to control ALL THE BOOST. Just think outside your current 4x4 square. If it is a 28 psi gate (yes correct I’ve run this) the N75 is barely operating. All the boost rips through the turbine creating an insanely fast spool up cause 95% duty on wastegate (5% is your MBC bleed off) but done via tune cause electronics are smarter then pneumatics. With the settings from your tuner they’ve set your turbo to run in this manor it’s pretty clear by your data logs. They even seem to open the gate exactly where it needs to be (if properly set up to control the boost via the intelligent electrical controller) but you still experience the boost being forced to turbine that’s trying to exit the wastegate. This is the entire reasoning behind the factory setting for preload. It’s not just a made up stack of turd it’s a fact that they understand a confined turbine exit, a tiny wastegate flapper and a turbine wheel less then 10 mm from wastegate. Hence why external gates mounted to exhaust manifolds. Gas exits pre turbo by inches not mm and then re enters 10” or more from the turbine wheel.

Now just review this with 11 psi spring, hell your setup wud be even better at 14 psi and 3 turns preload. I’d only tested but 3 turns preload and 11 psi spring your gate would open at 10 ish psi at 3 turns. Add 1/2 turn 11 psi opens the gate. Take a wild guess how I know this.

https://i.ibb.co/3kjCbXg/888-EB979-2-B4-D-4-C56-8-D08-3-F46823-AD17-A.jpg (https://ibb.co/3kjCbXg) Cause when you physically test the larger wastegate spring the results will blow your mind. (Turbo smart gate has both 11 and a 3 psi spring inside so b4 you ask yes 11 psi spring 3 turns gate fully opens like factory no more wastegate flapper blocking the flow of the gasses)

Review as tested factor k03 springs pressure is physically tested at 4 psi so 12 peak 8 hold to redline, on k04 factory car gate is a 8 psi spring pressure gate tune request is 14 and holds 12 to redline.

[EvolutionArmory]

I would like to try a Forge wastegate but not enough to pull my turbo.

I’m already making better boost and making more airflow than anyone who currently runs a K04 and better than most who came before me so there isn’t much motivation to pull the turbo. I think Derrek is the only guy with more airflow at 295 GS but I’m right there behind him at 290.

I totally agree with you that running a higher spring rating and adjusting preload to that spring pressure will be better than taking a stock gate and adding preload like I’m doing now. I’ll have more rod travel that way and an aftermarket gate will probably have less bleed but I don’t want to mess with something that is working real well for me.

The MBC is taking care of all the overboost just fine and a 9 psi crack pressure is only 1 psi higher than this turbo came set up from CTS. My overboost issue is due to not being able to add duty cycle on a OTS tune. I’m only at 80% duty at spool. If I could just up that to 90 or higher at spool, I wouldn’t need the MBC.

My options were to pay GIAC for a custom duty cycle tune or just add a $100 dollar valve. I chose door 2 and it works great. [emoji6]

[boostin20v]

I finally installed my k04 tune from 034Motorsport with my CTS K04. As others have referenced, I'm dealing with a boost spike that causes limp mode under moderate/heavy throttle. If I drive the car more 'normal' I can avoid limp all together. I've sent some logs to 034 for their input, and they're telling me that the N75 duty cycle I see of 40-60% is lower than the expected, pulled from logs of full throttle runs. They recommend swapping the N75, maybe adjusting the wastegate. While troubleshooting we logged by my car and a buddies car (oe turbo with over 290k miles) and via VCDS see that neither get over the 40-60% duty cycle.

Thoughts on next steps to ditch this boost spike?

VCDS logs I initially sent 034 - https://log.tunezilla.com/s/h3Cyloq7 https://log.tunezilla.com/s/wNMS3BeP

[EvolutionArmory]

Low duty cycle and overboost usually means your wastegate is too tight for the tune or the tuner needs to add duty cycle at spool to get rid of the overboost.

I said F all that and just added a manual boost controller to act as a second N75. No more overboost for me and I can set peak boost to whatever I want.

[boostin20v]

I like the idea of the MBC, its a bitch to get to the wastegate adjustment nuts and a lot of waiting for things to cool in between adjustments. Seems so strange that for the last 8-9k miles with OE software I had no issues, OE maps more flexible?

[boostin20v]

which hose off the N75 does the MBC sit, the one that goes to top of wastegate?

[EvolutionArmory]

I like the idea of the MBC, its a bitch to get to the wastegate adjustment nuts and a lot of waiting for things to cool in between adjustments. Seems so strange that for the last 8-9k miles with OE software I had no issues, OE maps more flexible?

The OEM map is only asking for 12 PSI.

Ask 034 to add duty cycle to the N75 map. They probably have their map written for an OEM BW stock wastegate which is only 6 PSI. CTS ships them with a 8 pound wastegate. They’re suppose to be able to make tweaks so ask them to add more duty cycle. If you’re only at 60%, there’s TONS of room for tweaks.

[EvolutionArmory]

which hose off the N75 does the MBC sit, the one that goes to top of wastegate?

No. You put in a T on the turbo housing reference hose. One hose from the T goes to the N75, one to the MBC. Then you go out of both to another T and one hose goes to the wastegate.

You run them in parallel with each other. This way, the MBC doesn’t do anything until you go over what you set it to. The rest of the time, it’s literally doing nothing. It only kills overboost this way and you have full N75 control at part throttle.

Or you could just ask 034 to add duty cycle. That is 100% the best solution. GIAC wanted way too much money for tweaks so I just did the MBC.

[EvolutionArmory]

And if you're going to do logging, you HAVE TO have the gas pedal floored the whole time. Why can't anyone give good logs?

Start at 1500, hit start, FLOOR IT, hit red line, press stop.

All this half throttle data isn't useful.

[thenofjboy]

No. You put in a T on the turbo housing reference hose. One hose from the T goes to the N75, one to the MBC. Then you go out of both to another T and one hose goes to the wastegate.

You run them in parallel with each other. This way, the MBC doesn’t do anything until you go over what you set it to. The rest of the time, it’s literally doing nothing. It only kills overboost this way and you have full N75 control at part throttle.

Or you could just ask 034 to add duty cycle. That is 100% the best solution. GIAC wanted way too much money for tweaks so I just did the MBC.


love GIAC on my B5 KO4 and B7. what's 'way too much $?' ..ballpark. just curious TIA

[EvolutionArmory]

love GIAC on my B5 KO4 and B7. what's 'way too much $?' ..ballpark. just curious TIA

The cost or maybe even more than what the K04 tune cost. $750 or more.

[megarex]

love GIAC on my B5 KO4 and B7. what's 'way too much $?' ..ballpark. just curious TIA

last two quotes I got were ~$1k from their dealers.

[i3oricua]

I will always recommend Motoza. They'll actually look at your logs and give you advice and recommendations based on the info they see from those logs. It's specific to your car and your mods and they will keep you within safe levels and for a K04 on a stock block it will cost you around $600. If you're a built engine then it will be slightly more but you'll be happy in the end.

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[EvolutionArmory]

I always recommend GIAC. There’s no need to revise anything because it’s already pretty awesome.

I keep telling these guys, run the GIAC tune. I mean, Derrek did 310 wheel with the same tune as me and logged 295 on the MAF. Not even EPY could come close with a custom tune and he’s a genius. 🤣🤣


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[i3oricua]

I've come to find out that MAF values don't correlate directly to HP. I'm sure those numbers mean something to a tuner but I'm my situation they don't get hand in hand.

Ive no doubt that the GIAC tune is great, particularly for OTS, but i firmly believe there will be always be some left on the table compared to a custom tune. In your case i believe so even more so since you have rods and pistons.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Derrek did over 300 wheel and I’m soooo close to making 300 wheel. I might even be there now.

So far nobody has posted anything close but to be fair, Audizine isn’t as busy as it used to be.

And you’re right of course. MAF isn’t everything but in my experience, it’s a pretty good judge if the OEM MAF scaling and stock MAF is still being used.

Airflow, timing and AFR logs are a great way to see how good a tune is. And I haven’t seen many that are as impressive as GIAC. But I admit, that’s only a sample size of 2 cars. Mine and Derrek’s.


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[seal66]

Derrek did over 300 wheel and I’m soooo close to making 300 wheel. I might even be there now.

So far nobody has posted anything close but to be fair, Audizine isn’t as busy as it used to be.

And you’re right of course. MAF isn’t everything but in my experience, it’s a pretty good judge if the OEM MAF scaling and stock MAF is still being used.

Airflow, timing and AFR logs are a great way to see how good a tune is. And I haven’t seen many that are as impressive as GIAC. But I admit, that’s only a sample size of 2 cars. Mine and Derrek’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Dont see a lot of.mention about UM tunes with the k04 but it's a solid tune

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[EvolutionArmory]

Dont see a lot of.mention about UM tunes with the k04 but it's a solid tune

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I would like to see non E85 figures from your car. Your car is a beast with E85. Your torque curve is insane 🤣

[seal66]

I would like to see non E85 figures from your car. Your car is a beast with E85. Your torque curve is insane [emoji1787]I have runs from both 91 and e85. I would have to find them. The car on 91 is super nice and smooth

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[Charles.waite]

Yea I plan on going UM stage 2 once my new engine is broken in. Then maybe in a year go k04 with their tune. I’ve heard nothing but really positive things about UM.

Plus I love that you can alter boost, octane, and launch control with adaptation values in VCDS. No stupid dongles (revo).

[seal66]

Yea I plan on going UM stage 2 once my new engine is broken in. Then maybe in a year go k04 with their tune. I’ve heard nothing but really positive things about UM.

Plus I love that you can alter boost, octane, and launch control with adaptation values in VCDS. No stupid dongles (revo).They are really good. I haven't tried the no lift shift yet either, but it's on there lol

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